Part 12 (1/2)

11 Chicago Chicago Tribune, Tribune, July 19, 1869. July 19, 1869.

12 Sumner, Journal, June 20, 1869. Sumner, Journal, June 20, 1869.

13 In his letter to In his letter to The Rocky Mountain News, The Rocky Mountain News, July 17, 1869. July 17, 1869.

14 J. W. Powell, J. W. Powell, Exploration of the Colorado River of the West, Exploration of the Colorado River of the West, p. 25. p. 25.

15 One contributing cause of the wreck, as of a lot of their later trouble, was the sluggishness and lack of maneuverability of the boats. One contributing cause of the wreck, as of a lot of their later trouble, was the sluggishness and lack of maneuverability of the boats.

16 Later experience on the river has demonstrated that a free-running boat, especially if unloaded, will generally halt of itself in an eddy or reversing current. The Powell party, without means of knowing this, had every apparent reason to think the Later experience on the river has demonstrated that a free-running boat, especially if unloaded, will generally halt of itself in an eddy or reversing current. The Powell party, without means of knowing this, had every apparent reason to think the Maid of the Canyon Maid of the Canyon was lost. was lost.

17 Dated June 18, 1869; published August 20, 1869. Dated June 18, 1869; published August 20, 1869.

18 Rocky Mountain News, Rocky Mountain News, July 17, 1869. July 17, 1869.

19 Renamed, on the second expedition, Split Mountain Canyon. Renamed, on the second expedition, Split Mountain Canyon.

20 The mouths of White and Uinta have changed their relative position since 1869. The Uinta (now called the d.u.c.h.esne ) now enters the Green nearly opposite the mouth of the White. The mouths of White and Uinta have changed their relative position since 1869. The Uinta (now called the d.u.c.h.esne ) now enters the Green nearly opposite the mouth of the White.

21 Sumner, Journal, July 6, 1869. Sumner, Journal, July 6, 1869.

22 Captain Pardon Dodds, the agent, was away at the time, and Powell dealt with an a.s.sistant named Lake. Dodds was later employed as a guide and packer by Powell's survey, and for a while was a partner with Powell in a Uinta Valley cattle ranch. Captain Pardon Dodds, the agent, was away at the time, and Powell dealt with an a.s.sistant named Lake. Dodds was later employed as a guide and packer by Powell's survey, and for a while was a partner with Powell in a Uinta Valley cattle ranch.

23 Letter to the Denver Letter to the Denver Post, Post, October 13, 1902. See also Stegner, ”Jack Sumner and John Wesley Powell.” October 13, 1902. See also Stegner, ”Jack Sumner and John Wesley Powell.”

24 The amount of actual dislike for Walter Powell is hard to a.s.sess. The late and unreliable reminiscences of Sumner and Hawkins make much of it, and ornament their tales with instances of near-fights, always heroically broken up by Hawkins or Sumner, between Walter Powell and Dunn, or Dunn and the Major. Bradley's journal, aside from reporting an increasing dissatisfaction as supplies dwindled and danger grew, makes no specific recording of such incidents; neither does Sumner's journal, and neither do any of Powell's several versions of the trip. But Walter Powell, hurt mentally by the war, was not asked to accompany the second expedition, and according to Darrah The amount of actual dislike for Walter Powell is hard to a.s.sess. The late and unreliable reminiscences of Sumner and Hawkins make much of it, and ornament their tales with instances of near-fights, always heroically broken up by Hawkins or Sumner, between Walter Powell and Dunn, or Dunn and the Major. Bradley's journal, aside from reporting an increasing dissatisfaction as supplies dwindled and danger grew, makes no specific recording of such incidents; neither does Sumner's journal, and neither do any of Powell's several versions of the trip. But Walter Powell, hurt mentally by the war, was not asked to accompany the second expedition, and according to Darrah (Utah Historical Quarterly, (Utah Historical Quarterly, XV, 89) was by the early seventies so unstable that he could not work regularly. He never recovered from his derangement. It is entirely probable that he was a difficult companion on such a tense and strenuous trip as this one. XV, 89) was by the early seventies so unstable that he could not work regularly. He never recovered from his derangement. It is entirely probable that he was a difficult companion on such a tense and strenuous trip as this one.

25 The original of this letter is in the library of the Grand Canyon National Park. It is published in the The original of this letter is in the library of the Grand Canyon National Park. It is published in the Utah Historical Quarterly, Utah Historical Quarterly, XVI-XVII, 506-7. XVI-XVII, 506-7.

9.

1 Accounts differ on the character of this stretch of river. Sumner's journal mentions on July 7 that there is no timber in the canyon, though there is on the summits. The expedition was led to name the stretch Desolation Canyon, and Bradley speaks of the especially desolate view from the rims. But E. O. Beaman's photographs taken in 1871 show straggling trees, and Otis Marston, one of the most experienced of modem river boatmen, has found cottonwoods and greenery all the way along Desolation - perhaps grown since 1869, since cottonwoods are short-lived and fast-growing trees. The natural bridges, he says, are two: one high on the skyline, and one at the head of a side gorge. Accounts differ on the character of this stretch of river. Sumner's journal mentions on July 7 that there is no timber in the canyon, though there is on the summits. The expedition was led to name the stretch Desolation Canyon, and Bradley speaks of the especially desolate view from the rims. But E. O. Beaman's photographs taken in 1871 show straggling trees, and Otis Marston, one of the most experienced of modem river boatmen, has found cottonwoods and greenery all the way along Desolation - perhaps grown since 1869, since cottonwoods are short-lived and fast-growing trees. The natural bridges, he says, are two: one high on the skyline, and one at the head of a side gorge.

2 This rescue, which is the subject of one of the more imaginative ill.u.s.trations in Powell's 1875 This rescue, which is the subject of one of the more imaginative ill.u.s.trations in Powell's 1875 Scribner's Scribner's articles about the voyage, might well have been thought somewhat colored and dramatized if it were not for the corroboration of Bradley's journal entry for July 8: ”In one place Major having but one arm couldn't get up so I took off my drawers and they made an excellent subst.i.tute for rope and with that a.s.sistance he got up safe.” articles about the voyage, might well have been thought somewhat colored and dramatized if it were not for the corroboration of Bradley's journal entry for July 8: ”In one place Major having but one arm couldn't get up so I took off my drawers and they made an excellent subst.i.tute for rope and with that a.s.sistance he got up safe.”

3 Here again Marston disagrees with the 1869 journals. Bradley's journal for July 9 speaks of ”a succession of rappids or rather a continuous rapid with a succession of cataracts for 20 miles.” Sumner's journal for the same date records ”20 miles with that number of rapids, some of them very bad.” Marston, in a note to the author on February 6, 1953, says, ”If they found 20 miles of continuous cataracts the river must have changed. I can find no evidence of a change that marked.” Powell's own field journal is missing the entries from July 7-19, inclusive. The records of the second Powell Expedition are of little value for comparison because the second expedition ran this stretch more than a month later in the season, and in very low water. Here again Marston disagrees with the 1869 journals. Bradley's journal for July 9 speaks of ”a succession of rappids or rather a continuous rapid with a succession of cataracts for 20 miles.” Sumner's journal for the same date records ”20 miles with that number of rapids, some of them very bad.” Marston, in a note to the author on February 6, 1953, says, ”If they found 20 miles of continuous cataracts the river must have changed. I can find no evidence of a change that marked.” Powell's own field journal is missing the entries from July 7-19, inclusive. The records of the second Powell Expedition are of little value for comparison because the second expedition ran this stretch more than a month later in the season, and in very low water.

4 Some of Powell's later detractors, notably Stanton and Chalfant, have made much of the fact, established first in Hawkins' reminiscences, that Powell wore a life preserver, as if this fact somehow reduced the heroism of his exploration. It is hard to see how the wearing, of a life preserver by a one-armed man is in any way shameful, or why Powell's failure to mention the existence of the preserver in his Some of Powell's later detractors, notably Stanton and Chalfant, have made much of the fact, established first in Hawkins' reminiscences, that Powell wore a life preserver, as if this fact somehow reduced the heroism of his exploration. It is hard to see how the wearing, of a life preserver by a one-armed man is in any way shameful, or why Powell's failure to mention the existence of the preserver in his Exploration Exploration const.i.tutes deliberate suppression of facts. const.i.tutes deliberate suppression of facts.

5 See Reports of Explorations and Surveys to Ascertain the Most Practicable and Economfcal Route for a Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, See Reports of Explorations and Surveys to Ascertain the Most Practicable and Economfcal Route for a Railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, made under the direction of the Secretary of War, in 1853-54, Vol. II (Was.h.i.+ngton, 1855). made under the direction of the Secretary of War, in 1853-54, Vol. II (Was.h.i.+ngton, 1855).

6 As has been indicated before, Macomb's map does not seem from any outward evidence to have been known to Powell. It was published in Captain J. N. Macomb, As has been indicated before, Macomb's map does not seem from any outward evidence to have been known to Powell. It was published in Captain J. N. Macomb, Report of the Exploring Expedition from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to the Junction of the Grand and Green Rivers of the Great Colorado of the West, in 1859 Report of the Exploring Expedition from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to the Junction of the Grand and Green Rivers of the Great Colorado of the West, in 1859 (Was.h.i.+ngton, 1876). (Was.h.i.+ngton, 1876).

7 Sumner; Journal, July 16, 1869. Sumner; Journal, July 16, 1869.

10.

1 My account of Adams' journey down the Blue and the Grand is taken from his ma.n.u.script journal. Though there is no real reason for giving much credence to any single detail in either of the versions, I have in general stuck to the original draft, as likely to be somewhat closer to what Adams thought he saw at the time. A dressed-up version, prepared in connection with Adams' claim for compensation from the United States, is in My account of Adams' journey down the Blue and the Grand is taken from his ma.n.u.script journal. Though there is no real reason for giving much credence to any single detail in either of the versions, I have in general stuck to the original draft, as likely to be somewhat closer to what Adams thought he saw at the time. A dressed-up version, prepared in connection with Adams' claim for compensation from the United States, is in Colorado River Expeditions Colorado River Expeditions of Samuel Adams, of Samuel Adams, House Miscellaneous Doc.u.ment No. 37, 42nd Cong., 1st Sess. House Miscellaneous Doc.u.ment No. 37, 42nd Cong., 1st Sess.

2 Adams, Journal, July 12, 1869. Adams, Journal, July 12, 1869.

3 There is some reason to believe that Powell's first plan was to explore the Grand rather than the Green. At least there is an item in the There is some reason to believe that Powell's first plan was to explore the Grand rather than the Green. At least there is an item in the Rocky Mountain News Rocky Mountain News for November 6, 1867, which reports Powell's departure for the east, and continues: ”He will return to the territory next spring to prosecute his scientific labors, and will go down the Grand to its junction with the Colorado River.” for November 6, 1867, which reports Powell's departure for the east, and continues: ”He will return to the territory next spring to prosecute his scientific labors, and will go down the Grand to its junction with the Colorado River.”

4 Adams, Journal, August 1, 1869. Adams, Journal, August 1, 1869.

5 Fragmentary second version of Adams' journal bound in with the first; single page numbered 17. Fragmentary second version of Adams' journal bound in with the first; single page numbered 17.

11.

1 The writing of this report and the vexed question of its reliability is discussed in Part II, Chapter 5. The writing of this report and the vexed question of its reliability is discussed in Part II, Chapter 5.

2 Powell, Powell, Exploration, Exploration, pp. 7-9. pp. 7-9.

3 Bradley, Journal, July 23, 1869. Bradley, Journal, July 23, 1869.

4 See Ba.s.s, See Ba.s.s, Adventures in the Canyon of the Colorado. Adventures in the Canyon of the Colorado.

5 Bradley, Journal, July 29, 1869. Bradley, Journal, July 29, 1869.

6 Ibid., Ibid., July 30, 1869. July 30, 1869.

7 Ibid., Ibid., July 31, 1869. July 31, 1869.

8 See Powell, Journal, August 4, 1869, where he calls the Paria ”Ute Creek.” Sumner's journal reads, for August 4, ”Pulled out early and made a run of 38 miles, that brought us to the old Spanish Crossing between Salt Lake and New Mexico, called the Escalanta 'El vade de los Padres.'” See Powell, Journal, August 4, 1869, where he calls the Paria ”Ute Creek.” Sumner's journal reads, for August 4, ”Pulled out early and made a run of 38 miles, that brought us to the old Spanish Crossing between Salt Lake and New Mexico, called the Escalanta 'El vade de los Padres.'”

9 The modem highway or rail crossings of the Green-Colorado canyons are precisely where the crossings were in Powell's time - at Green River, Wyoming; at Jensen, in the Uinta Valley; at Greenriver, Utah, the old Spanish or Gunnison's Crossing; and at the mouth of the Paria where the ferry has been superseded by the Navajo Bridge. There have been none added except the ferry at Hite, the old Dandy Crossing, at the upper end of Glen Canyon, which permits an undependable connection between Hanksville and Blanding, Utah. A bridge was scheduled to be built at Hite in the summer of 1953. The modem highway or rail crossings of the Green-Colorado canyons are precisely where the crossings were in Powell's time - at Green River, Wyoming; at Jensen, in the Uinta Valley; at Greenriver, Utah, the old Spanish or Gunnison's Crossing; and at the mouth of the Paria where the ferry has been superseded by the Navajo Bridge. There have been none added except the ferry at Hite, the old Dandy Crossing, at the upper end of Glen Canyon, which permits an undependable connection between Hanksville and Blanding, Utah. A bridge was scheduled to be built at Hite in the summer of 1953.

10 Bradley, Journal, August 4, 1869. Bradley, Journal, August 4, 1869.

11 For the story of the Brown-Stanton Expedition, see Robert Brewster Stanton, ”Through the Grand Canyon of the Colorado,” For the story of the Brown-Stanton Expedition, see Robert Brewster Stanton, ”Through the Grand Canyon of the Colorado,” Scribner's, Scribner's, VIII (November, 1900), 591-613; and F. A. Nims, ”Through Mysterious Canons of the Colorado,” VIII (November, 1900), 591-613; and F. A. Nims, ”Through Mysterious Canons of the Colorado,” Overland Monthly Overland Monthly (March, 1892), pp. 253-70. There are secondary accounts in Dellenbaugh's (March, 1892), pp. 253-70. There are secondary accounts in Dellenbaugh's Romance of the Colorado River Romance of the Colorado River and in Lewis R. Freeman, and in Lewis R. Freeman, The Colorado River, Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow The Colorado River, Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow (New York, 1923). The Stanton papers, including Stanton's diaries and notebooks, are in the New York Public Library. (New York, 1923). The Stanton papers, including Stanton's diaries and notebooks, are in the New York Public Library.

12 Lieutenant Ives, after fighting his way upriver as far as the mouth of Diamond Creek, led a party overland across the Colorado Plateau to the Hopi towns and across the Navajo country to Fort Defiance. It was a side excursion from this land party that tried unsuccessfully to reach the mouth of the Little Colorado. Lieutenant Ives, after fighting his way upriver as far as the mouth of Diamond Creek, led a party overland across the Colorado Plateau to the Hopi towns and across the Navajo country to Fort Defiance. It was a side excursion from this land party that tried unsuccessfully to reach the mouth of the Little Colorado.