Part 3 (2/2)
Sept. 18th. Left Frankfort at ten o'clock for Mayence, and pa.s.sed through a fertile sandy country, which is well stocked with grape vines, but the country not much varied; the scenery as we approach Mayence is more picturesque, particularly when we get in view of the town. We pa.s.s through a handsome barrack, situated on the verge of the river, proceeding across a long wooden bridge that leads to the town.
Opposite to this wooden bridge, are placed seventeen watermills for grinding flour, which were then busily at work.
The town is surrounded by very deep rampart ditches, faced with strong stone walls, a very good promenade, and a number of small gardens with clipt hedges, near the edge of the Rhine, where there is an avenue that extends along its banks formed by large trees of Poplar and Robinias. At a short distance from Mayence, but on the opposite side and close to the banks of the river is a very fine old castellated building, and a small village adjoining, which form a prominent feature in the scenery from the Mayence bridge.
Sept. 19th. Left Mayence per steam packet for Bonn. For the first two hours, we made scarcely any progress, owing to the dense fog, which we were all anxious to see disperse, in order that the beautiful scenery might be seen to full advantage: it was however not before nine o'clock, that the banks of the Rhine were quite clear, when the packet began to make a rapid progress, and pa.s.sing rapidly along between numerous stupendous rocks, old castles, and small towns situated close by the river side.
The banks of the Rhine are extensively cultivated as vineyards. When we arrived at Katz, which is considered about the middle of the best scenery, we met the other steam packet, coming up at Werlau. The scenery here is truly grand; the high mountainous rocks and old castellated ruins, with the various undulations and other objects, render this region highly picturesque. There is a pretty town close by the water edge, with white houses, and corresponding village on the opposite side, and another appearing just at the extremity of a deep valley in prospect. The old castle called Marksburg, is a prominent object, but to attempt to describe or enumerate all the various features of interest that come under observation in pa.s.sing along the Rhine, would be an endless task. The scenery at Coblentz is very beautiful, with its bridge of boats across the Rhine, similar to that at Mayence. A large rock called the Stromberg, is very picturesque, with the castellated ruins at the top, and several other rocks of smaller dimensions in its vicinity, nearly opposite to which the Rhine surrounds a small island. This may be considered about the last of the romantic scenery that comes in view, as we pa.s.s down the Rhine.
Arrived at Bonn, about five o'clock, where I experienced some difficulty in getting a lodging, in consequence of the great meeting of scientific professors having been here congregated. After at last finding admittance in a hotel, I proceeded to the Botanic garden, which is situated about a mile from the town, surrounding the south and east sides of the university, and containing a very handsome range of hothouses, from three to four hundred feet in length, which also form nearly a line, or a range, with the principle front of the university.
The hothouses are in five divisions, and contain an extensive collection of _Ferns_ and _Graminea_; many of the stove plants were in a very luxuriant state, and looked very healthy. Behind this range is the annual ground, where the different species are cultivated, which appeared to occupy about an acre: there are several low pits placed in this department, for the growth of _Cacteae_, and _Orchideae_, and other dwarf-growing species; but the collection of _Cacteae_ and _Orchideae_ is very limited. Immediately in front of the range of hothouses, is an arboretum of hardy trees and shrubs, much too crowded, and planted too close to the hothouses, and is continued in a manner round the two ends and south side of the garden. Opposite the princ.i.p.al front of the university, is arranged the collection of _Herbaceous_ plants, according to the natural system, but the beds are all of an oblong form, with broad alleys or foot-paths, betwixt them: an extensive collection of the hardy flowering perennial plants was grown in the _Herbaceous_ ground, but the variety of hardy trees and shrubs appeared to be very limited.
There were placed along the front of the university several clumps of green-house plants, and orange trees.
The university was formerly a royal palace, but the lower apartments are now devoted to collections of natural history; the length of the front measures eighty eight yards, and appeared to be about square, with an inner court. On my return, I met with professor Treveranes, and gave him a letter of introduction that I had from Sir W. Hooker. I learned from the professor, that the prince of Salm-Dyck was then in Bonn, attending the scientific meeting, and if I did not see him that evening, I should not be able to see him at all; having a letter of introduction to his highness from Sir W. Hooker, and from Mr. Sabine, and being anxious to see the prince, if possible, I made the best of my way back to Bonn, to the hotel where the prince was stated to be residing; but on enquiring there, finding he had gone out, I immediately proceeded in search of the prince to another hotel to which I had been directed. After waiting some time, I found his highness had not arrived, but was expected very soon.
I therefore amused myself in looking through several splendid apartments which were then occupied by a large number of ladies and gentlemen, who meet at this hotel or club-house every night, to supper and various amus.e.m.e.nts. At last I was informed that the prince had just arrived, when I delivered my letters of introduction, and apologised for intruding at that unseasonable time. The Prince appointed me to be with him at nine o'clock the following morning, when his Highness was pleased to give me a letter to his gardener at Salm-Dyck, directing him to shew me the grounds and collections under his care.
Sept. 20th. After my return from the prince, I made another excursion to the Botanic garden, where I again saw the professor Treveranes, who had not accompanied his learned brethren to Cologne, who to the number of about four hundred had departed that morning for that town.
I took a walk on my return from the Botanic gardens round the environs, and was much pleased by the objects of interest that displayed in different directions. The scenery around Bonn is particularly fine, and some good prospects from a hill, at a short distance from the town; but as I intended starting by the early steam packet, I had not time to reach its summit, although very inviting.
The Cathedral is a very fine building, and its interior handsomely fitted up.
The packet arrived at half-past two o'clock: I took my departure for Dusseldorf, and pa.s.sed by Cologne, where, I imagine, there must have been several thousand people a.s.sembled on the harbour and bridge.
We now changed packets for one of less dimensions and splendour, and arrived at Dusseldorf about half-past ten o'clock. The scenery from Cologne to Dusseldorf was flat, and but little varied; in short Bonn is the termination of picturesque scenery.
At Dusseldorf, I had but little difficulty in finding a hotel, as they were not so much crowded as at Bonn.
Sept. 21st. Started at six o'clock, a. m. for prince Salm-Dyck's Chateau, which is situated about ten miles from Dusseldorf, on the opposite side of the Rhine, which is crossed in a flat barge, and pa.s.ses through the ancient town of Neuss, at which place Buonaparte's design of connecting the Rhine, Scheldt, and Meuse, is nearly completed.
The suburbs of Neuss abound in numerous vegetable gardens, enclosed with well clipt hedges. The ground in this part of the country, is a strong rich looking yellowish loam, and produces strong crops of corn, clover, and potatoes. The road however leading through a part of this country to the prince's palace, is very much out of repair, and appeared to have been neglected for a considerable time.
On arriving at the palace, I immediately found out M. Funck, the prince's gardener, and delivered to him my letters of introduction from the prince, and from M. Otto, of Berlin. The garden ground attached to this residence, contains one hundred and eighty German acres; the surface is considerably varied, and consists of numerous fine trees and shrubs grouped together on the lawn, the rising ground being judiciously planted with the loftiest growing sorts, and kept towards the extremity of the arboretum; amongst these I observed some very fine specimens of beeches and oaks; the beeches were particularly fine.
I saw here the _Gleditschia tricantha_, 50 feet high, and the _Populus Canadensis_ eleven feet in circ.u.mference, by about sixty in height; also a fine specimen of _Acer dasycarpum_. The trees in this arboretum are arranged according to the system of _Jussieu_; there is likewise a natural arrangement of herbaceous plants nearer to the palace and green houses. I here observed a good collection of _Paeonias_, but the prince excels most in the _Succulent_ tribe of plants, such as the _Cacteae_, _Mesembryanthemum_, and _Aloes_.
Although the _Cacteae_ are very numerous they were not such fine specimens as in the Berlin garden. A sheet of water encloses, in a manner, the greater part of the palace and its offices, and from the windows it has a very fine effect, with its bold sweeping banks extending along the arboretum, where a pretty wooden bridge appears in view. The hothouses are rather in a decayed state; but M. Funck informed me that the prince intended re-building them. In the greenhouse are some very rare specimens of _Yuccas_ and _Aloes_. I understood from M. Funck that Mr. Hitchen, of Norwich, had the greater part of his celebrated collection from this garden, whence I also antic.i.p.ate receiving, ere long, not a few rarities.
In going through the interior of the palace I saw a number of very old paintings, many of which represented former princes of Salm-dyck, but they are not in a good state of preservation; the rooms and furniture are of antique appearance, as well as the exterior of the palace. After spending several hours in inspecting the plants and grounds, I returned to Dusseldorf, to see the botanic garden belonging to that town, which is certainly neither difficult to get over, nor to see its contents, the s.p.a.ce of ground being very contracted, and the plants also few in number.
They princ.i.p.ally consisted of annuals; with a few rare species of _Cacteae_, not easily to be met with. I was, however, more pleased with the public garden or promenade, which surrounds the town, and is very extensive; it is particularly well laid out with fine broad walks, clumps of trees and shrubs, and lawn intervening, and great variation of surface, with different points of view commanding fine prospects of the Rhine, with its boats and steam packets.
There is in this promenade a fine avenue of _Populus dilatata_, as well as the _Tilia Europaea_, (Lime tree,) also several pieces of water, the outline of some formed with much taste and intricacy, while others are left rather formal; but, on the whole, little room is left for criticism. Dusseldorf is a handsome town, and contains about 18,000 inhabitants; with good streets and well built houses.
Sept. 22nd. Left Dusseldorf by diligence at eight o'clock, a.m.; and pa.s.sed by the palace of prince Frederic, which is situated close by the road side, in front of which the orange trees and sheets of water appear very conspicuous. The gardens are said to contain a good collection of plants.
Arrived at Cologne at one o'clock. This town is of considerable extent and traffic, and has a population of upwards of 50,000 inhabitants. The great object of attraction for the stranger is the magnificent church, or cathedral, one of the finest in Europe, the dome one hundred and eighty feet high, and the interior illuminated with beautiful stained gla.s.s windows; the portraits as large as life, and magnificently executed. I was, however, more pleased by the exquisite architecture of the exterior; when finished, the effect will be grand in the extreme. On the south side of the town are strong fortifications, opposite to which is a promenade, that runs along a narrow slip of plantation on the exterior side of them. There are also numerous fields for the growth of vegetables. I here observed a small nursery garden well stocked with fruit trees and shrubs. At a short distance from this I saw a large building which I concluded to be a military barrack or magazine, which was guarded by soldiers. By the time that I had completed my survey of the town, I found that it was approaching to the hour that the diligence was to leave for Aix-la-Chapelle. I started about seven o'clock in the evening for this town, where we arrived at four o'clock the following morning.
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