Part 3 (1/2)
Sept. 15th. Left Carlsruhe at six o'clock, a.m. for Heidelberg, pa.s.sing through a fine fertile country, chiefly occupied with green crops. The mangel wurtzel, Indian corn, and fine crops of tobacco, are cultivated here, as well as in many other parts of Germany. Arrived at Heidelberg at eleven o'clock, and proceeded to the Botanic Garden, which has been only recently established, and contains a neat range of hot-houses, about one hundred and sixty feet long, besides a large sized pit in front of the range, one hundred feet long. This garden, although small, is pleasantly situated, and well arranged. In the centre is an oblong piece of water, the banks around which are considerably elevated, and planted with standard fruit trees, such as peaches, apricots, plums, and pears. The garden forms an oblong square, with a range of hot-houses and gardener's house at the north end, close to the Heidelberg Gate. These hothouses were the best and neatest-built that I had met with in Germany, and contain a pretty fair collection of plants, with some very fine species of _Cacteae_. Along by the east side of the garden is an avenue of very fine specimens of the _Robinia inermis_, which is also continued along the south side of the town for a considerable distance.
I next proceeded to Schwetzingen, another magnificent establishment, belonging to the Grand Duke of Baden. The palace and gardens are situated about five English miles from Heidelberg, and are unquestionably well worth the stranger's visit. In the approach to them by an arch-way at the palace, we have a view of a large circular piece of ground, divided into various divisions, in which are cultivated a good collection of flowering plants; there are also in this spot a number of fine orange trees, arranged along the edges of broad gravel walks; several of them forming a straight avenue, extending in various directions. The centre walk or avenue, leading from the palace, is terminated by an extensive sheet of water, where is placed a fine group of sculpture, as well as another at the commencement of the avenue, at the end of the gra.s.s, next to the circular piece of ground, where the orange trees are arranged. On each side of this princ.i.p.al avenue is situated an oblong piece of ground, laid out in the French style of gardening, with numerous straight walks, and circular s.p.a.ces at their junctions. The exterior of the ground, and that by the lake, is laid out in the English style, and consists of various clumps of trees; and the very fine irregular sheet of water has really a very good effect.
I was much pleased with a very fine ruin, which is ascended by steps to a very considerable height, from whence is a delightful prospect of the gardens and adjoining scenery. The Temple of Apollo, with the stupendous blocks of rock, and the water das.h.i.+ng against them, is another object deserving of notice. The Temple of Minerva is also a very pretty erection. A Roman aqueduct forms a very prominent object of attraction, but at this season of the year it appeared to be but indifferently supplied with water, which might be occasioned by the long and universal drought. A Temple Botanique, and a very handsome Kiosk, formed objects of interest and ornaments to the garden. An extensive arched trellising covered with creepers also attracted my notice: in it were numerous arborial openings on both sides.
The collection of Cape and New Holland plants is pretty extensive, and numerous species of the _Genus Erica_ are also cultivated. In the kitchen garden various pyramidal-formed pear trees are grown; and the hothouses are of a better description than are usually to be met with in Germany; the south-side gla.s.s, and the back opaque, with span roofs. The pine-apples here were the best that I had previously met with during my tour in Germany. To give an accurate description of the various objects of interest that are to be seen in these grounds would require one well acquainted with the premises, and several days' actual residence on the spot. The orange houses are substantial built houses, with dark roofs, and the collection of trees, from their appearance, from four to five hundred, which were in a healthy state.
Having a letter of introduction from Sir John Frost and M. Kilter from the neighbourhood of Vienna (who visited Woburn Abbey last summer) to the princ.i.p.al director, I experienced the greatest attention from him; the greatest pains were taken in pointing out to me every thing worthy of notice.
Returned to Heidelberg, and visited the ruins of an old castle, situated on the face of a hill overlooking the town, and the river Necker, and surrounded by high hills well planted, which form an eminence considerably above the castle, where there is a platform or resting place: the view of the extent of country and its romantic scenery is really grand. On the top of two of these hills are high towers, the prospect from which must be still more extensive. On approaching the old castle, I was agreeably surprised to observe some fine walks, with a collection of trees or arboretum, with printed labels attached to them, and the ground in good order. From this we still continued to descend to the old castle, which, even in its present state, must strike the stranger with regret that such a magnificent building should have been permitted to go to decay, particularly as the stone work appears in a good state of preservation. The prospect from the terrace, on the north-side of the castle, is really grand, commanding the circuitous course of the Necker, the lofty and undulating hills on each side, which I imagine must be elevated at least two thousand feet above the level of the site of the castle.
In the interior of the building is the celebrated _Heidelberg tun_, which was formerly used in making the Rhenish wine, with the great machine that was in use for that purpose, and from its size the quant.i.ty made daily must have been very great; near to it stands a figure of one of the wine makers, who was in the habit of drinking fifteen bottles every day. The approach of night prevented me from inspecting the interior of this old castle so minutely as I could have wished.
Descending from a hill considerably elevated above this building, I pa.s.sed through a grove of fine trees (sweet chesnuts) all in full bearing.
The country and romantic scenery in the vicinity of Heidelberg pleased me more than anything of the kind I had previously met with.
Sept. 19th. Left Heidelberg at six o'clock a. m. for Frankfort, the road winding along the river Necker, for a considerable distance, through a flat country to the left; but the high hills on the right as we pa.s.sed from this to Darmstadt formed a pleasing contrast. The scenery for the first ten or twelve miles is very picturesque, from the high undulating hills, having numerous old romantic castellated ruins on their summits, or commanding points, which form prominent features of attraction. These hills are likewise well planted with forest trees; and large tracts are under vineyard culture.
Arrived at Darmstadt at half-past one o'clock. I was much pleased with the cleanliness and elevated situation of this town, which is said to contain above twenty thousand inhabitants; the houses are handsomely built, the streets wide, and in good proportion to the height and size of the houses; they have also flag pavements, which is a rarity in Germany. The opera-house is a splendid building, as well as the cathedral. The palace is also a fine old building, and has attached to it an extensive pleasure ground and kitchen garden.
Having but a very short time to stop here I made but a hasty visit through the gardens. The kitchen garden walls were well stocked with trees in full bearing, and large crops of vegetables appeared to be extensively cultivated: from thence I went to the extremity of the grounds, near which is a small herbaceous ground, with a good collection of plants in it, but I observed but little in the ornamental way in the arboretum department.
About the centre is prettily formed, although dirty, a sheet of water, with a fanciful boat, for pa.s.sing to and from a small island in the centre. The grounds are very flat and not varied, but possess numerous walks and rides which are frequented by the inhabitants.
I here observed a large number of horses, belonging to the Grand Duke, pa.s.sing through the town to the Ducal stables. There are military barracks, and a large establishment of soldiers stationed here. This is evidently not a town of trade, but is princ.i.p.ally occupied by the military.
Left Darmstadt at three o'clock for Frankfort; the country betwixt these towns is not much varied, but the soil appears very fertile, and produces good crops. I was, however, quite astonished at the number of carriages and other vehicles pa.s.sing and re-pa.s.sing betwixt Frankfort and Heidelberg; the road appeared to be nearly as much crowded as any of the English roads leading to London, and amongst these travellers were many English families.
Arrived at Frankfort at six o'clock in the evening; the hotels were all so crowded with strangers that it was with difficulty I procured a bed, but at last the landlord of the Hotel d'Angleterre obtained me a room in a private house.
Sept. 17th. In the morning I visited the Catholic cathedral, which is said to be one thousand years old, and contains a curious clock and almanac, made and placed in it about four hundred years ago; and then proceeded to the banking-house of Messrs. Koch and Co., and delivered to them a letter of introduction from His Excellency Lord G. W. Russell.
They kindly furnished me with notes of introduction to several of the best gardens in Frankfort. I then visited the nursery gardens of M.
Rintz, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, and contain about eighteen English acres, chiefly occupied with fruit trees. There are also several hothouses and pits for Cape and other plants, which are pretty extensively cultivated, with a good variety of _Ericas_ and other greenhouse plants, as well as several fine specimens of _Cacteae_, and a very extensive variety of the _Camelliae_; but unfortunately none of these being at this season in flower, I had not the pleasure of seeing M. Rintz's celebrated variety, which is said to be very fine. This gentleman then accompanied me to the garden of M. Andreae Willemer, which is close to the town, but is very limited in extent; it contains a very good greenhouse, and low pits and frames, which were then well stocked with a very fine collection of _Cacteae_, amongst which were many very scarce species. This gentleman devotes much attention to the cultivation of this tribe of plants, and appeared to put a higher value on many of them than they are actually worth; for instance, the _Cactus Senilis_ he would not part with for fifty pounds, although possessing duplicates.
There was also a good a.s.sortment of Cape plants and a number of _Ericas_, which are now beginning to be more extensively cultivated in Germany than they previously were.
I then paid a visit to the Frankfort Botanic Garden, which is of very limited extent, and its collection of plants also very contracted. These is, however, attached to it, the Senkenberg Society, which contains a splendid collection of objects in natural history, such as birds, fishes, sh.e.l.ls, minerals, and animals, which are well worth the stranger's notice.
From this I proceeded to the gardens of M. Gogel, situated about four English miles from Frankfort, containing twenty-four German acres, with several hothouses and pits for the growth of the pine-apple and other tropical plants, which are extensively cultivated here. This gentleman has a very fine collection of the hardy grapes on the garden walls, with a large s.p.a.ce of vegetable ground, well cropped. The lawn in front of the house appears, from the River Main, to much advantage, as well as a fine avenue of lime trees, that have grown to a large size. At the lower end of this avenue is a fine vista of the river and packets, or boats, that pa.s.s to and from Frankfort and Mayence.
On my return, I called at the villa garden of M. Stern, which is a pretty little spot, with a great variety of pelargoniums and dahlias, and other green-house plants, and contains some small green-houses and pits for their protection; there is also a good collection of camellias, all in a healthy state.
Adjoining this is another villa, belonging to M. Cronelius, that has also several good hothouses and pits, with a large variety of _Ericas_, _Camellias_, _Dryandrias_, and _Geraniums_, as well as other New Holland plants. There are likewise several espalier divisions, in which the pear tree is extensively cultivated, and appeared to be in a very prolific state. There is a considerable extent of ground under kitchen cropping, and also a pleasure ground, which was very well kept.
The garden of Baron Rothschild, close to the town of Frankfort, is undoubtedly the best in this neighbourhood that came under my observation; it contains thirty-five German acres, with several green-houses, besides an extensive range then building, about two hundred feet long, which was also intended for plants, and is divided into seven apartments, in order that those kinds that require different temperatures may be kept separately; this range when completed will have a very fine effect. In front of the mansion were placed two large stands well stocked with geraniums, and some very good orange trees, in tubs, which are removed from this site to the green-house early in autumn. I here observed a very fine specimen of the _Araucaria excelsa_, which was beautifully feathered to the ground; this is unquestionably one of the finest specimens of this plant that I have seen on the continent or in England, with the exception of that at Dropmore, which is much finer in every respect. Baron Rothschild's _Araucaria_ is little inferior to the one at Prince de Linge's at Belial.
Opposite to the house is a prospect tower, that commands a fine view of Frankfort and surrounding country; there is also an arched walk completely covered with grape vines. The gra.s.s lawn was well kept, and various clumps of trees and shrubs dispersed through it. A small piece of water is enclosed at the lower end of the ground for water fowl. In this garden I observed a good collection of green-house plants and _Ericas_.
The fortifications that formerly surrounded the town are now demolished, and formed into a public promenade for the inhabitants, and are well laid out, with various clumps of trees and shrubs, broad walks, and benches.
Frankfort is a town of great traffic, and is said to contain about 40,000 inhabitants.