Part 4 (1/2)
Sept. 23rd. Having a few hours to stop before the diligence set out, I proceeded to the cathedral, where the celebration of the ma.s.s was performing. It is a very splendid building, the interior highly ornamented on the ceiling with fine fresco paintings.
The town hall, or now police office, is also a very magnificent building; I observed some fine paintings in the interior.
The several celebrated mineral springs in this town are nearly as hot as those at Baden; leading from the Baths, is a handsome street and a number of good houses, that appeared to have been recently erected. At a short distance from the town is a prettily planted hill, which must command a fine prospect from its top of the surrounding country and scenery; but my time would not permit a visit to it. In the vicinity of Aix-la-Chapelle are numerous market gardens, but I observed no nursery stock. The road leading from hence to Liege is considerably varied, and the ground apparently of a rich fertile nature. The town of Liege is situated in a beautiful valley, at the junction of the river Meuse with the Ourthe, and surrounded by hills and fertile pasture, the latter being watered by three rivers, the Ourthe, the Vestre, and the Meuse.
This city contains a great many very fine built houses, and is much celebrated for its various manufactories, which princ.i.p.ally consist of marble, coal, iron, and various other hardware articles. The old palace is a fine antique building of the Ionic order; the different apartments in it were then undergoing a thorough repair. The viranda that surrounds the inner square is now formed into an arcade of shops. From this palace I proceeded to the old citadel on mount St. Walburgh, which commands a fine view of the town, the river Meuse, and the surrounding scenery, for several miles in extent.
Sept. 24th. Went this morning to the cathedral, the architectural arrangements of which are very imposing; the interior decorations are well deserving of the stranger's notice, as well as its richly ornamented ceiling, and beautifully painted windows, and several fine pictures and groups of sculpture. I next proceeded to M. Makoy's nursery, which is situated about two or three English miles from the town. It contains an extensive collection of plants, which are extremely well grown, and all in fine saleable condition. The spirited proprietor was then erecting another extensive range of hothouses, and heating it with hot water, which, together with the numerous houses he has already, will extend his plant houses to about six hundred feet in length. In this nursery I observed one of the best collections of green-house plants, that I met with on the continent; they were undoubtedly not surpa.s.sed in their growth by any collection that I have seen; the _Camellias_, _Cacteae_, and orchideous plants, also form a prominent feature in this establishment, as well as the collection of _Azaleas_, and _Rhododendrons_, which were all in fine condition, the nursery ground in good keeping, and well stocked with fruit trees.
On my return I visited the botanic garden, which surrounds the university, and contains nearly two English acres of ground, in which is cultivated a good collection of hardy perennials, and _Gramineae_ plants.
There are also three hothouses for the growth of tropical and Cape plants. In the stove I observed a very fine specimen of the _Dracaena Draco_, (Dragon tree,) which was twenty two feet high; the _Caladium lacerum_ had also attained the height of fifteen feet; there was likewise a very fine plant of the _Crinum amabile_, then in flower. The university is a magnificent building, and is at present having large additions made to it.
I started at twelve o'clock for Namur. The road, leading along the river Meuse, is extremely picturesque, the large rocks and varied surface give it a fine appearance. Along the banks by the road side I observed the common box growing in great abundance. We skirted an extensive tract of vineyards, which are cultivated along the banks or rising ground on the right side of the river Meuse, as we pa.s.s from Liege to Huy. At this town we cross the river by a stone bridge. Huy contains a number of well built houses, and is pleasantly situated, being surrounded by lofty rocks, with a strong fortification. The road skirting the river Meuse from Huy to Namur, appeared to me to be of the most romantic and beautiful scenery that I had previously met with, particularly a part of it, when approaching within a few miles of Namur, where the rocks and varied surface give it a most interesting appearance. In a picturesque spot on this line of road we have in full view the summer chateau of the prince d'Aremberg, as well as various other handsome residences.
Arrived at seven o'clock in the evening at Namur, when there commenced a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning and rain, which continued for several hours. Namur is a strongly fortified town, situated in a valley, at the junction of the rivers Meuse and Sambre. The cathedral is an object of interest; but as I left the same evening by diligence for Mons, I was unable to see this n.o.ble structure.
The view from the bridge opposite the fortifications has a grand appearance to the eye of the stranger. Left Namur at half past nine o'clock, and arrived at Mons at ten o'clock the following morning.
Sept. 25th. Mons is a strongly fortified town, and abounds with market gardens in the environs. It appeared to be the centre of a great agricultural district. Coal-works are likewise very abundant in its vicinity.
I proceeded from this town to Bel[oe]il in a cabriolet; pa.s.sing through a fertile country, and a fine plantation belonging to the Prince de Ligne, which contained some fine beech trees, with numerous avenues, but a horrid road; the wheels of the cabriolet sinking up near to the axeltree for the greater part of the journey. On my arrival at Bel[oe]il I was unfortunate in not finding the Prince at home, as I had a letter of introduction to his highness from Sir Robert Adair. I found some difficulty in obtaining admittance into the gardens; but on the arrival of a gentleman belonging to the establishment, he gave orders to one of the guards to conduct me through the grounds to the kitchen garden. The palace is surrounded by water, and at the princ.i.p.al front is a large oblong sheet of water, with a large ma.s.s of sculpture at its extremity. The prospect from the palace windows, along this piece of water and the avenue, which is formed by high clipped hornbeam hedges, as well as by the lime-tree, appeared very fine, and extended for several miles in a straight direction. The grounds are very extensive, and intersected by numerous avenues of hornbeam hedges, which are of great height, with various arborial windows cut in them from eight to ten feet from the ground. In short, the number of avenues and well-clipt hedges that lead in every direction through these grounds, render it a place well worthy of a visit, and const.i.tute a different feature in gardening from what is generally to be met with elsewhere.
The Prince has an extensive range of houses for the growth of exotics, all connected with a large opaque-roofed orangery, which forms a centre to the range; the wings are of different heights, and have a very good effect. I here observed a more magnificent _Araucaria excelsa_ than I had previously seen, with the exception of that at Dropmore, which is much larger, and more beautiful. This orangery is a capacious building, princ.i.p.ally erected with red brick, with upright lights only in front, the roof being slated. It contains a large a.s.sortment of orange trees, in good health. There is also a house devoted to _Camellias_, containing about two hundred and forty sorts. The botanic stoves are well stocked with healthy plants, but there are very few of the new or lately introduced species amongst them. I observed here a very fine specimen of the _Coccoloba p.u.b.escens_, the leaves of which appeared to me to be more luxuriant than on any other plant of this species that I had previously seen. The _Urania speciosa_ was also particularly fine, and several other kinds in a flouris.h.i.+ng state.
In the same compartment with the plant-houses is placed an extensive range of pine-apple and melon-pits, as well as several structures of peach and vine framing. In the kitchen-garden a large a.s.sortment of the hardy fruits are cultivated, especially pears and apples; the former are trained as standards along the borders, in a pyramidal form, and appeared to produce excellent crops. The kitchen-gardens and pleasure-grounds, although very extensive, were in a very rough state; the only part kept in good order seemed to be the plant-houses and hedges.
From Bel[oe]il I proceeded to Ath, a very strongly fortified town. The country from Prince de Ligne's to Ath is very fine, and consists of a rich agricultural soil in a high state of cultivation, producing excellent crops. The town is said to contain about 80,000 inhabitants; the ancient tower of Brabant forms a prominent object, and the church of Julien is well worth notice.
Sept. 26th. Left Ath at eight o'clock in the morning, in a cabriolet, for Enghien, which is only a small town; but the fine park, and gardens belonging to the duke d'Aremberg, which are situated close to the town, are objects of general attraction. Unfortunately the castle or mansion was burned down during the late revolution, and his highness now chiefly resides in an ancient mansion near Louvain. The duke has lately built a very fine range of hothouses for the growth of tropical plants; they are four hundred and sixty feet long, and are divided into several divisions; the centre, which is occupied as a stove for the more lofty of the tropical plants, is sixty-six feet long, thirty four high, and twenty five wide. In this house the _Urania speciosa_ had attained the height of thirty three feet; the _Displotanium argenteum_ also thirty three feet; this is a beautiful _Palm_. The _Caryota urens_ had likewise grown to the height of thirty two feet; the circ.u.mference of its stem at six inches from the ground is three feet three inches, gradually tapering towards the top. _Cycas circinalis_, fourteen feet in height and very healthy; the _Corypha umbraculifera_ twenty four feet in height, a very beautiful palm; and a very fine specimen of the _Latania rubra_, the _Carolina princeps_, had reached the top of the house, and had been cut back. Numerous other species were here in a very healthy state, and a very extensive collection of Cape and New Holland plants.
This extensive range is handsomely finished with cut stone parapet walls, and projecting cornice over the top lights. There is another range about one hundred and thirty feet long, with span roof, separate from the princ.i.p.al range, in which are cultivated pines, bulbs, and various other plants. In front of these ranges of hothouses is a large lawn, with several clumps of the different species of hardy plants, which are also extensively cultivated in this establishment. A handsome temple is situated at a short distance from the gardens, which is surrounded by water, from this temple diverge seven fine beech and horse-chesnut avenues, looking in as many directions; between each are smaller avenues parallel to them, which are terminated by handsome stone vases. At a short distance from the avenues is the orangery, which is of large dimensions, with an opaque roof; The orange trees were very healthy, and formed an avenue in front of the house. M. Bedinghans, the gardener, informed me that they only s.h.i.+fted them once in five years, in a mixture of loam and leaf-mould, with a little cow-dung intermixed. At the back of the orangery are several arched walks, formed by hornbeam hedges, with arborial windows cut in them; they form a pleasant and shady promenade during the summer months. The park is also very extensive and considerably varied in its surface.
M. Bedinghans is a native of Germany, and a very intelligent young man, seemingly much attached to his business. He accompanied me to the nursery garden of M. Parmentier, which is situated in the town of Enghien. In this establishment, there is a celebrated collection of plants, amongst which I observed a fine specimen of the _Melocactus mitriformis_ which measured three feet in circ.u.mference, and eighteen inches in height; and _Melocactus hystrix_ also a very fine plant. The _Echinocactus boutillieri_, is a beautiful specimen; _Cereus bonplandia_, _Mammillaria acanthoplegma_, _melocactus macrocanthus_; for a plant of this latter species M. Parmentier asked three hundred francs.
The _Zamia furfuracea_ is also very fine; as well as beautiful specimens of the following, _Wallichia caryotoides_, _Bora.s.sus flabelliformis_, _Latania glaucophylla_, _Panda.n.u.s turbinatus_, _amaryllifolius_, _f[oe]tidus_, _bromelifolius_, _glaucus_, _candalabrium_. The _pinus Damara_ M. Parmentier valued at fifty guineas, and the _Magnolia plumieri_, from the Island of St. Domingo, at eighty guineas: the _Butea superba_ a fine plant, and fine specimens of the following species: _Sterculia villosa_, _Stanhopea occulenta_, _Careya sphaerica_, _Theoprastus America.n.u.s_, _Gesnera barbata_, _Boronia grandiceps_, _Pinus pinnata_, and _Mexicana_; with numerous other rare species. Above four hundred sorts of _Camellias_, and upwards of five hundred kinds of _Cacteae_, are cultivated in this fine collection.
The hothouses are very extensive, but getting rather into a decayed state, and are not kept in good repair. After visiting this establishment, I started by the diligence for Brussells, where I arrived in time to see a splendid display of fireworks, which was exhibited about ten o'clock; the town was likewise brilliantly illuminated in celebration of the late revolution. It contains a number of fine capacious streets, and well built houses. In the course of the present year, 1835, it was stated that not less than thirty thousand strangers had visited Brussells.
Sept. 27th. Having a letter of introduction from His Excellency Lord G.
W. Russell to Sir George Hamilton, I waited on him this morning; and afterwards proceeded to visit several of the churches; amongst which was the celebrated Notre-Dame-de-la-Chapelle, which is a beautiful Gothic structure. The marble altar, which is executed from the designs of Rubens, is extremely beautiful, as is likewise the pulpit. St. Michael's church is also a fine Gothic building. I visited this in the evening, whilst they were engaged singing, and various clergymen were then present. This ancient structure is richly ornamented with beautiful pictures and painted gla.s.s windows. The oak pulpit attracts much attention on account of the richness of its carving, which represents the expulsion of Adam and Eve.
I also visited the Duke d'Aremberg's town-house, which is much celebrated for its library and Antiquities, and contains several fine paintings in the various apartments, together with a collection of Etruscan vases, and a head of Laoc.o.o.n. Attached to this mansion his grace has a very fine riding-house, where several paintings were deposited. I next proceeded to see a representation of St. Petersburgh, which was then exhibiting in Brussells, consisting of a model of the various streets, squares, houses and gardens of that splendid city, which appeared to attract many visitors.
I proceeded in the afternoon to the Botanic Garden; but as it was wet I was unable to find any one to accompany me through the grounds, owing to the absence of the gardener; I therefore deferred going through them until a better opportunity, when I paid them another visit.
Sept. 28th. Started at six o'clock in the morning by diligence for Waterloo, where we arrived at half-past eight; and having procured a guide, I was conducted over this celebrated field of action, which is now all under a fine system of agriculture. I proceeded to the noted chateau at Hougoumont, which is enclosed by a brick wall, and still exhibits the marks of bullets. About the centre of the field of battle is a large mount, raised in commemoration of that eventful day; it measures 1680 feet in circ.u.mference at the base, and is about 200 feet high. On the top is placed the Belgic Lion, said to weigh 48,000 lbs.
On my return through the little village of Waterloo, I visited the church, which contains a large number of tombs, in memory of the British officers who fell in the field of battle.
I got back to Brussells about one o'clock, when I proceeded to the palace of Lacken, and having a letter of introduction to the gardener, from Mr. M'Intosh at Claremont, ready access was obtained to the gardens and grounds attached to this royal residence.
The palace stands on an eminence, commanding a fine view of Brussells and the adjoining country, particularly towards the south. The Antwerp road leading to Brussells is very conspicuous from several points of view from the grounds. From the palace towards the south the pleasure ground falls very considerably, and is much varied in surface, with several very pretty vistas, intersected by numerous walks, leading to different objects of interest. A large sheet of water, which appears in view from the palace windows, as well as from several other points in the grounds, forms a very pretty feature: over a part of this lake a fine wooden bridge crosses to a small island, and at the other extremity is a large grotto, formed by very large rough stones. Various improvements are in constant progress in the pleasure-ground, the whole of which is kept in very good order, a circ.u.mstance of rare occurrence in Belgium. Two fine hothouses for plants have been erected during the last two years, from plans furnished by Mr. M'Intosh, the gardener at Claremont, who has also superintended the erection of several pine-pits, and contemplates the addition of an extensive range of forcing-houses at the King's palace of Lacken. From Mr. M'Intosh's well known abilities as a scientific and practical gardener, the superintendance could not be entrusted to a more suitable person.
The houses lately erected there are very neatly finished, and well adapted to their purpose, as well as the pine pits; the pine-apples grown here by M. Forkhall, the gardener at Lacken, were superior to any that I had previously met with on the continent. The young plants were also clean and healthy, and the exotic plants were in a very flouris.h.i.+ng state, many of them in fine flower. There is likewise an extensive orangery, with a fine collection of healthy trees, which are much cultivated in Belgium, as well as in Germany. Near the orange-house were several clumps of flowering plants, amongst them some fine varieties of the dahlia. His Majesty's taste for plants and horticultural pursuits has not abated since he came to the throne; consequently numerous good plants are daily added to his collection. I observed a fine specimen of the _K[oe]lreuteria paniculata_, in fine flower, the _Catalpa syringifolia_ in great beauty, and several other fine growing hardy species.