Part 20 (2/2)

Rambles in the Valley of Collates.--Elysian scenery.--Song of a young female peasant.--Rustic hospitality.--Interview with the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.--Conversation with His Royal Highness.--Return to Ramalhao. 212

LETTER x.x.xII.

Convent of Boa Morte.--Emaciated priests.--Austerity of the Order.--Contrite personages.--A _nouveau riche_.--His house.--Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.--Train of attendants at dinner.--Portuguese gluttony.--Black dose of legendary superst.i.tion.--Terrible denunciations.--A dreary evening. 229

LETTER x.x.xIII.

Rehearsal of Seguidillas.--Evening scene.--Crowds of beggars.--Royal charity misplaced.--Mendicant flattery.--Frightful countenances.--Performance at the Salitri theatre.--Countess of Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.--A strange ballet.--Return to the Palace.--Supper at the Camareira Mor's.--Filial affection.--Last interview with the Archbishop.--Fatal tide of events.--Heart-felt regret on leaving Portugal. 235

LETTER x.x.xIV.

Dead ma.s.s at the church of Martyrs.--Awful music by Perez and Jomelli.--Marialva's affecting address.--My sorrow and anxiety. 253

SPAIN.

LETTER I.

Embark on the Tagus.--Aldea Gallega.--A poetical postmaster.--The church.--Leave Aldea Gallega.--Scenery on the road.--Palace built by John the Fifth.--Ruins at Montemor.--Reach Arroyolos. 259

LETTER II.

A wild tract of forest-land.--Arrival at Estremoz.--A fair.--An outrageous sermon.--Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.--Elvas.--Our reception there.--My visiters. 268

LETTER III.

Pa.s.s the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.--A muleteer's enthusiasm.--Badajoz.--The cathedral.--Journey resumed.--A vast plain.--Village of Lubaon.--Withered hags.--Names and characters of our mules.--Posada at Merida. 275

LETTER IV.

Arrival at Miaxada.--Monotonous singing.--Dismal country.--Truxillo.--A rainy morning.--Resume our journey.--Immense wood of cork-trees.--Almaraz.--Reception by the escrivano.--A terrific volume.--Village of Laval de Moral.--Range of lofty mountains.--Calzada. 282

LETTER V.

Sierra de los Gregos.--Ma.s.s.--Oropeza.--Talavera.--Drawling tirannas.--Talavera de la Reyna.--Reception at Santa Olaya.--The lady of the house and her dogs and dancers. 289

LETTER VI.

Dismal plains.--Santa Cruz.--Val de Carneiro.--A most determined musical amateur.--The Alcayde Mayor.--Approach to Madrid.--Aspect of the city.--The Calle d'Alcala.--The Prado.--The Ave-Maria bell. 296

LETTER VII.

The d.u.c.h.ess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.--Her apartment described.--Her pa.s.sion for music.--Her senoros de honor. 301

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