Part 20 (1/2)

Grand gala at Court.--Festival in honour of the birthday of Guildermeester.--Mad freaks of a Frenchman.--Unwelcome lights of Truth.--Invective against the English. 117

LETTER XXI.

The Queen of Portugal's Chapel.--The Orchestra.--Rehearsal of a Council.--Proposal to visit Mafra. 123

LETTER XXII.

Road to Mafra.--Distant view of the Convent.--Its vast fronts.--General magnificence of the Edifice.--The Church.--The High Altar.--Eve of the Festival of St.

Augustine.--The collateral Chapels.--The Sacristy.--The Abbot of the Convent.--The Library.--View from the Convent-roof.--Chime of Bells.--House of the Capitan Mor.--Dinner.--Vespers.--Awful sound of the Organs.--The Palace.--Return to the Convent.--Inquisitive crowd.--The Garden.--Matins.--A Procession.--The Hall de Profundis.--Solemn Repast.--Supper at the Capitan Mor's. 127

LETTER XXIII.

High ma.s.s.--Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.--Leave Mafra.--An accident.--Return to Cintra.--My saloon.--Beautiful view from it. 143

LETTER XXIV.

A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.--Amusing stories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.--Cheerful funeral.--Refres.h.i.+ng ramble to the heights of Penha Verde. 147

LETTER XXV.

Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.--Visit to Mrs.

Guildermeester.--Toads active, and toads pa.s.sive.--The old Consul and his tray of jewels. 157

LETTER XXVI.

Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.--Duke d'Alafoens.--Excursion to a rustic Fair.--Revels of the Peasantry.--Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. 163

LETTER XXVII.

Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.--Singular invitation.--Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.--Hilarity and shrewd remarks of that extraordinary personage. 169

LETTER XXVIII.

Explore the Cintra Mountains.--Convent of Nossa Senhora da Penha.--Moorish Ruins.--The Cork Convent.--The Rock of Lisbon.--Marine Scenery.--Susceptible imagination of the Ancients exemplified. 179

LETTER XXIX.

Excursion to Penha Verde.--Resemblance of that Villa to the edifices in Caspar Poussin's landscapes.--The ancient pine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John de Castro.--The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.--Influx of visitors.--A celebrated Prior's erudition and strange anachronisms.--The Beast in the Apocalypse.--colampadius.--Bevy of Palace damsels.--Fete at the Marialva Villa.--The Queen and the Royal Family.--A favourite dwarf Negress.--Dignified manner of the Queen.--Profound respect inspired by her presence.--Rigorous etiquette.--Grand display of Fireworks.--The young Countess of Lumieres.--Affecting resemblance. 189

LETTER x.x.x.

Cathedral of Lisbon.--Trace of St. Anthony's fingers.--The Holy Crows.--Party formed to visit them.--A Portuguese poet.--Comfortable establishment of the Holy Crows.--Singular tradition connected with them.--Illuminations in honour of the Infanta's accouchement.--Public harangues.--Policarpio's singing, and anecdotes of the _haute n.o.blesse_. 201

LETTER x.x.xI.