Part 21 (1/2)

LETTER VIII.

The Chevalier de Roxas.--Excursion to the palace and gardens of the Buen Retiro.--The Turkish Amba.s.sador and his numerous train.--Farinelli's apartments. 305

LETTER IX.

The Museum and Academy of Arts.--Scene on the Prado.--The Portuguese Amba.s.sador and his comforters.--The Theatre.--A highly popular dancer.--Seguidillas in all their glory. 310

LETTER X.

Visit to the Escurial.--Imposing site of that regal convent.--Reception by the Mystagogue of the place.--Magnificence of the choir.--Charles the Fifth's organ.--Crucifix by Cellini.--Gorgeous ceiling painted by Lucca Giordano.--Extent and intricacy of the stupendous edifice. 314

LETTER XI.

Mysterious cabinets.--Relics of Martyrs.--A feather from the Archangel Gabriel's wing.--Labyrinth of gloomy cloisters.--Sepulchral cave.--River of death.--The regal sarcophagi. 323

LETTER XII.

A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco's.--Curious a.s.semblage in his long pompous gallery.--Deplorable ditty by an eastern dilettante.--A bolero in the most rapturous style.--Boccharini in despair.--Solecisms in dancing. 329

LETTER XIII.

Palace of Madrid.--Masterly productions of the great Italian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.--The King's sleeping apartment.--Musical clocks.--Feathered favourites.--Picture of the Madonna del Spasimo.--Interview with Don Gabriel and the Infanta.--Her Royal Highness's affecting recollections of home.--Head-quarters of Ma.s.serano.--Exhibition of national manners there. 339

LETTER XIV.

A German Visionary.--Remarkable conversation with him.--History of a Ghost-seer. 349

LETTER XV.

Madame Bendicho.--Unsuccessful search on the Prado.--Kauffman, an infidel in the German style.--Ma.s.s in the chapel of the Virgin.--The d.u.c.h.ess of Alba's villa.--Destruction by a young French artist of the paintings of Rubens.--French amba.s.sador's ball.--Heir-apparent of the house of Medina Celi. 354

LETTER XVI.

Visit from the Turkish Amba.s.sador.--Stroll to the gardens of the Buen Retiro.--Troop of ostriches.--Madame d'Aranda.--State of Cortejo-ism.--Powers of drapery.--Madame d'Aranda's toilet.--a.s.sembly at the house of Madame Badaan.--Cortejos off duty.--Blaze of beauty.--A curious group.--A dance. 358

LETTER XVII.

Valley of Aranjuez.--The island garden.--The palace.--Strange medley of pictures.--Oratories of the King and the Queen.--Destruction of a grand apartment painted in fres...o...b.. Mengs.--Boundless freedom of conduct in the present reign.--Decoration of the d.u.c.h.ess of Ossuna's house.--Apathy pervading the whole Iberian peninsula. 365