Part 2 (1/2)
Crossing Sentinel Bridge to ~Yosemite Village~ we halt at the ~Sentinel Hotel~ which, with the cottages opposite, occupies the site of the old Indian village Haw-kaw-koo'-e-tah, the home of the band called Yo-ham'-i-te, for whom the valley was named. A short distance beyond is the office of the U.S. National Park Service, where all campers should stop and register.
We continue up the canyon, now paralleling the south river margin thru a beautiful pine, fir and cedar forest. Thru the trees we now and then catch a glimpse of the ~Quarter Domes~ beyond the dominating ~Half Dome~, and finally the summit of ~Clouds Rest~. Three-quarters of a mile from the village is the picturesque ~Sierra Club Lodge~ at the right of the road. A short distance further is ~Camp Curry~, delightfully situated among the giant pines and cedars at the base of the towering cliff of Glacier Point. At this spot was the large Indian village of Too-yu'-yu'-yu, and a short distance to the northeast in the meadow was Too-lah'-kah'-mah. This famous hostelry, Camp Curry, is the final destination of all stages. The road continues up the canyon to Happy Isles.
ROAD TRIP I-A
POHONO BRIDGE TO YOSEMITE _via_ BRIDALVEIL ROAD
(5 miles--20 minutes by stage)
The ~Bridalveil Road~, ascending the south side of the valley, is scenically superior to the north, or El Capitan Road. Crossing Pohono Bridge to the south side of the Merced the road immediately enters a dense and beautiful forest. A short distance takes us to ~Fern Spring~, justly famous for the purity of its ice cold water. One-half mile beyond we suddenly emerge at ~Bridalveil Meadows~, obtaining a most charming view of the Gates of the Valley. At the right, ~Bridalveil Fall~ leaps 630 feet from its hanging valley, the one side of which is formed by the ma.s.sively sculptured ~Cathedral Rocks~, and the other by a solid granite ridge terminating at ~Leaning Tower~, another eminence of the turreted south wall. On the opposite side of the canyon rises the sheer face of ~El Capitan~. In the recess at its west the evanescent streamer of ~Ribbon Fall~ descends in a lace-like film.
At the edge of the meadow about 100 feet north of the road a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, Rose and Shurban, who were ma.s.sacred here by the Indians in May, 1852. Near the river was once the Indian village of Sap-pah'-sam-mah. The road now pa.s.ses near ~Bridalveil Fall~, charming glimpses of which are now and then revealed. A subsidiary road turns to the right and leads to the foot of the falls. This short side trip should be taken by all visitors. Just below a very large rock at the east margin of the stream is the site of the ancient village of Lem-me'-hitch'-ke. In view of this fact, our stories of the Indians' great fear of Pohono, ”the spirit of the evil wind,” may be somewhat overdrawn.
Just below the imposing b.u.t.tress of the lowermost of the Cathedral Rocks is ~El Capitan Bridge~, and near it ~Lo-to-ya~ (Flower) ~Spring~. North of the river is El Capitan Checking Station and the terminus of the ~Big Oak Flat Road~ (Road Trip IV). East of Cathedral Rocks we are treated to a sudden view of the two marvelously slender ~Cathedral Spires~, each rising 500 feet from its base and appearing to tower even above the Yosemite rim. Directly opposite across ~El Capitan Meadows~ is a most comprehensive view of the mighty wall of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, the ”Rock Chief” of the Indians, whose t.i.tle was merely translated into Spanish to make the present name. Chauffeurs often point out the likeness of the chief and other more or less imaginary mural images. In a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy Jeffrey pine 82.4 feet high and two feet in diameter.
In driving beneath the oaks, alders, pines and firs we enjoy ever-changing vistas across the placid river. ~Three Brothers~, ma.s.sively piled promontories of the north wall, are least harshly seen from this road. Directly ahead rises the watchtower of ~Sentinel Rock~. At its west flank the transitory ~Sentinel Fall~ descends in a series of cascades during the spring thaws. Below Sentinel Rock we pa.s.s the site of Galen Clark's cabin, of old Camp Awahnee, and of the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. About one and a quarter miles further is Yosemite Village. All campers should register at the National Park Service headquarters.
ROAD TRIP II
A TOUR OF THE FLOOR OF THE VALLEY
(9 miles--2 hours ride--1/2 to 1 day walk)
Every Yosemite visitor should spend at least one day within the valley itself before beginning the more strenuous trail trips. There is so much to be seen from the valley floor that weeks might be spent there were it not for ”the call of the High Country” beyond the walls. The following itinerary includes a visit to most places of interest in the upper (east) end of the valley: Sentinel Bridge, Indian Village, Royal Arches, Was.h.i.+ngton Column, Indian Cave, Mirror Lake, Half Dome, Mineral Springs, Tenaya Bridge, Happy Isles, Camp Curry and Le Conte Memorial Lodge, in the order mentioned.
Road Trips I and VI describe the region west of the village. The following excursion may be made by motor in two or three hours. Hikers will find it a moderately long half-day tramp or a leisurely one-day ramble. An early start should be made in order to see the sunrise at Mirror Lake. It is well to ascertain the hour beforehand, for this varies with the season of the year.
From ~Yosemite Village~ we cross Sentinel Bridge and follow the poplar-bordered road across the meadow. Straight ahead is ~Yosemite Fall~ and the ~Lost Arrow~, and at our right a most comprehensive view of ~North Dome~, the ~Royal Arches~, ~Was.h.i.+ngton Column~, ~Half Dome~ and ~Glacier Point~. At the Grizzly Hotel site the El Capitan Road (Road Trip VI) branches westward, while our route turns up the canyon.
The distant buildings to the left of the road are the Government barns, shops and warehouses. In this group is the menagerie which will well repay a subsequent visit. Nearer is the picturesque old cemetery where many pioneers of the region lie at rest. A little farther eastward on the largest open level area in Yosemite is the site of the important old village of Ah-wah'-ne, from which the valley took its Indian name.
Continuing along the ~Royal Arch Road~ we soon pa.s.s the new Rangers'
Club House. Just beyond, a cross road to the right leads to the garage. To the northward, high overhead, are the silhouettes of the ~Castle Cliffs~, and at their east the deep cleft of ~Indian Canyon~ which, to the Yosemite tribe, was ”Le Hammo” because of the arrowwood which grew there. Along the precipitous cliffs of the east wall ran their main trail into Yosemite from the north. From the valley floor at the base of a cliff just west of the Royal Arches they first climbed a large oak and then made their way along narrow ledges toward the northwest. It was at this oak that old Chief Tenaya was captured in 1851 by Lieutenant Chandler and the scout Sandino.
At the mouth of Indian Canyon is ~Yo'-watch-ke~, the only Indian village in the valley which is still occupied. During the July celebrations it is picturesquely alive but at other times the few dirty o'-chums are almost repulsive. This area on the alluvial fan of Indian Creek is the warmest spot in the valley and botanists will here find many plants typical of the lower alt.i.tudes.
A short distance further we pa.s.s Camp 17 at the right of the road.
About a quarter of a mile beyond and on the opposite side is Camp 20.
At a road junction is a small settlement called Kenneyville, which occupies the site of the former Indian Camp of Wis'-kah-lah. Here the ~Le Conte Road~ turns south, leading to Camps 15 and 7, and across Stoneman Bridge to Camp Curry on the Happy Isles Road. Doubling back to the westward is ~Sequoia Lane~, a road leading to Camps 6 and 7, and to Yosemite Village, one mile distant.
We continue eastward, pa.s.sing Camp 8, which is above the road and just at the west end of the ~Royal Arches~. During the spring thaw the beautiful but ephemeral ~Royal Arch Fall~ descends over a cliff at the left. Its Indian name, Scho-ko-ya, meant ”basket fall.” In the next half mile our road is flanked by the overhanging cornices of the colossal arches. They must be viewed from afar if we would realize how aptly they were called by the Yosemites ”Scho-ko-ni,” which means ”the movable shade to a cradle basket.” At the left of the road and directly beneath the arches is Camp 9. As we continue along the road, breaks in the forest reveal intermittent views of ~Was.h.i.+ngton Column~ towering above to the left, and of the great face of ~Half Dome~ dominating all the east.
A short subsidiary road to the left now leads to ~Indian Cave~ immediately under Was.h.i.+ngton Column. The Yosemites named this retreat Hol'-low', but sometimes called it Lah-koo'-hah, which means ”Come out!” It is a low, broad, deep recess under a huge rock and is said to have been occupied as a winter shelter; also when the Yosemites were attacked and almost exterminated by the Mono Lake Piutes. The overhanging rock is black with the smoke of ages, and far back in the cave large quant.i.ties of acorn sh.e.l.ls have been found.
Returning the short distance to the main road, we again turn eastward, soon pa.s.sing a group of excellent mineral springs at the right. The highway now bears gradually to the north into the mouth of ~Tenaya Canyon~ and in one-half mile ends in a ”loop” at the west margin of ~Mirror Lake~. The relative darkness in this deep canyon and the absence of wind during the early morning hours insures a perfect reflection for almost every morning of the vacation season. Most perfect are the reflections of ~Mount Watkins~ (the Wei-yow or ”Juniper Mountain” of the Yosemites) guarding the entrance to the forbidden gorge of Tenaya. Unfortunately the delta of Tenaya Creek has greatly encroached upon the mirror and has reduced it to but a remnant of the beautiful lake which the Indians called Ah-wei'-yo, or ”quiet water.” From the end of the road the Tenaya Lake and North Dome Trail (Trail Trips 4 and 6) continue around the western sh.o.r.e of the lake and up the canyon.
After the appearance of the sun over the shoulder of Half Dome, we retrace the last half mile of our route, turning aside for a short visit to the mineral springs. A little distance further the main road forks and we take the left-hand branch which crosses ~Tenaya Bridge~.
A detour to the westward now takes us around and over a portion of the lateral moraine left at the junction of the ancient Tenaya and Merced glaciers. Near this point was Hoo-ke'-hahtch-ke', an Indian village inhabited up to about 1897.
A road which branches to the right offers a short-cut to Camp Curry, about three-quarters of a mile distant. It pa.s.ses Camps 11 and 14, and the site of the Lick House, one of the inns of early days. The main road, however, bears to the left and parallels the beautiful banks of the Merced. Less than a mile takes us to the ~Happy Isles Bridge~.