Part 2 (2/2)
Here the main trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls, Glacier Point, Half Dome, Clouds Rest, Merced Lake, etc. (see Trail Trips), turns south and ascends the ~Merced Canyon~. At the right of the bridge is a U.S.
Weather Bureau observation station. On the west side of the stream is the old power plant and from it starts the footpath to ~Happy Isles~.
The short side trip from island to island should not be missed.
Especially are these charming garden spots noted for the beauty of their flowering dogwoods, maples and alders. The round trip to Sierra Point (Trail Trip 12) may easily be accomplished from this point in one hour. A refreshment stand is maintained in the vicinity. To escape the dust of the road one may follow the picturesque ~Happy Isles Trail~ from its beginning near the power house to Camp Curry, one mile westward.
Our road now bears to the northwest and rounds the imposing b.u.t.tress of ~Glacier Point~. One-half mile takes us to a spring at the left of the road which once supplied the large Indian village of Um'-ma-taw. A short distance beyond, our route is joined by the short-cut road from Mirror Lake. Near this road is a cabin often pointed out as having belonged to John Muir. It was really built and used by James C. Lamon, a pioneer and the first permanent resident of the valley. Muir's cabin has long since disappeared and its only existing photograph is in the possession of Dr. Wm. F. Bade. The orchard at the right occupies the site of Too'-lah'-kah'-mah, another vanished community of the Yosemite tribe.
Extending for a considerable distance along the road are the tents and bungalows of ~Camp Curry~. If we have time to stop, we may be refreshed by a swim in the huge open-air swimming pool, by cooling drinks at the soda fountain or by a rest beneath the great pines and cedars.
From the camp center a road to the north leads across the Stoneman Bridge to Kenneyville. At the right of the road is the site of the old Stoneman Hotel, which was built and maintained in the early days by the State of California, but which burned down in 1896. Close to the bridge, on the banks of the Merced, was once the large Indian village of Too-yu'-yu'-yu.
West of the Camp Curry bungalows we pa.s.s Camp 16, between the road and the river. Near this point the ~Ledge Trail~ turns to the south and mounts the talus slopes above Camp Curry. A short distance beyond is the new ~Le Conte Memorial Lodge~ picturesquely set among the pines and incense cedars where once was the Indian village of Ho-low, and where the old schoolhouse stood until 1911. The lodge is an ideal place to spend the remainder of the afternoon amongst photographs, flowers, books and maps, and in a cool and absolutely restful atmosphere. To the right of the road, where the river makes a big detour to the north, is Camp 19. One should note the remarkably perfect reflections in the river below the rock wall parapet during the remaining half-mile walk to Yosemite Village.
ROAD TRIP III
YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ CHINQUAPIN ROAD
(28 miles--4 to 5 hours by auto)
A trip to Glacier Point should be part of everyone's Yosemite itinerary. Many motorists prefer to make the excursion by road instead of by trail. The round trip from Yosemite can be made by machine in one day, but it is better to reserve accommodations in advance at the Glacier Point Hotel and remain there over night to view the sunrise over the High Sierra. Another excellent plan is to send one's machine around by road while one walks or rides to Glacier Point via the Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail (Trail Trip 1), returning to the valley via Chinquapin Road. The description of the first 14.5 miles of this trip, which follows the Wawona Road as far as Chinquapin, will be of interest to those leaving Yosemite by that route.
From Yosemite Village we follow the ~Bridalveil Road~ (Road Trip VI-A) down the valley four and a half miles to the Bridalveil Checking Station, where the Wawona Road turns to the left. Here all motorists must register. For safety the park regulations permit the ascent on even hours only, and at a speed of not more than twelve miles per hour.
We now climb steadily beneath a dense forest of pines, fir, incense cedar, oak and laurel, and at one and a half miles halt at ~Artist Point~ (Alt. 4701, 750 feet above the valley floor). The view of the ~Gates of the Valley~ to the east is claimed to be one of the most perfect of all Yosemite landscapes.
Gradually climbing another 690 feet we finally halt at ~Inspiration Point~ (Alt. 5391). The view of Yosemite is similar to that from Artist Point, but with the depths and distances more impressively accentuated. Across the canyon is ~Fireplace Bluff~. A view-finder beside the road indicates each point of interest. All machines should be registered at the Government Checking Station. Telephone communication and water are here available.
About half a mile beyond Inspiration Point is ~Fort Monroe~ (Alt.
5540), an old-time stage relay station. This is a fair campsite for auto parties. A good spring will be found near the Pohono Trail junction. The visit to the wild-flower gardens and many fine lookout points of the ~Pohono Trail~ (Trail Trip 18) is an especially fine one-day walking trip from this point.
Our road now leads thru most magnificent pine forests, which open now and then to give us short glimpses of the canyon of the Merced, thousands of feet below. About two miles from Fort Monroe the ~Hennessy Trail~ (Trail Trip 25) branches to the right and descends to El Portal, ten miles distant. ~Grouse Creek Crossing~, a half mile further, is a good auto camp. Fis.h.i.+ng is fair downstream.
Another two miles takes us to ~Avalanche Creek~. There are here no camping places and the stream contains no trout. _Caution_: The worst turn on the road is about 200 yards beyond the crossing. One mile beyond Avalanche Creek the ~Sunset Trail~ (Trail Trip 24) leaves the road at the right, descending to the Mid-winter Ranger Station near Arch Rock on the El Portal Road.
One mile further is ~Chinquapin~, an old stage relay station at the junction of the Glacier Point and Wawona Roads. There is here a ranger station and during the summer gas and oil can be obtained. In the vicinity are many good camp sites. An excellent spring will be found 200 yards north of the ranger cabin. Fis.h.i.+ng is fair in ~Indian Creek~ about a quarter of a mile southward; best fis.h.i.+ng is downstream. Many deer are generally to be seen in the region. Chinquapin is especially noted for its wonderful sunsets. Before leaving, all machines should take water.
The main road continues southward to Wawona and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees and thence to Merced, Madera and Fresno. Our route turns eastward and climbs abruptly 1300 feet in the next three miles to the head of the canyon of Indian Creek. This long, hard grade takes us to the 7500-foot level, where we are at last on the gently sloping plateau above the valley walls. The following eleven miles is a delightful succession of mountain meadows and forests of red fir, lodgepole pine and other sub-alpine species. Numbers of deer can almost always be seen from the road, especially early in the morning.
~Peregoy Meadow~, about five miles from Chinquapin, was famous in the early days for its wayside inn on the ”Yosemite Trail” from Clarke's (now Wawona). The old buildings have long since disappeared, but the trail, now called the ~Alder Creek Trail~ (Trail Trip 19), is still used. From Peregoy Meadow to Glacier Point are many fine camp sites.
About one mile eastward is ~Bridalveil Creek Crossing~. Fis.h.i.+ng is good upstream, and fair about one mile downstream, but generally poor near the road.
At a trail junction about one and a half miles further, the ~Ostrander Lake and Buck Camp Trail~ (Trail Trips 20 and 21) turns southward (right). Here one may park his machine and walk to ~Ostrander Lake~ via Trail Trip 20 and return, a fifteen mile one-day round trip. The lake offers some of the best fis.h.i.+ng in this section of the park.
Swinging gradually to the northeast the road pa.s.ses to the east of ~Ostrander Rocks~. A trail to the right leads to Mono Meadow and the basin of the Illilouette. Three miles further at ~Pothole Meadows~ the ~Peregoy Meadow Trail~ (Trail Trip 19) leaves the road at the left. A short distance beyond and at the same side of the road is the ~Pohono Trail~ turn-off (Trail Trip 17). A half mile further, just as the road starts its final descent to Glacier Point, is a trail to the left leading to ~Sentinel Dome~. The summit is but a few minutes distant and from it is revealed a vast panorama of the High Sierra.
A gradual descent in the final one and a half miles takes us past several lookout points to the road termination at ~Glacier Point Hotel~. Excellent accommodations are here obtainable. The overhanging rock and ~Glacier Point~ are 200 yards northward. (For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 1, 2, and 16 to 23.)
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