Part 1 (1/2)
Guide to Yosemite.
by Ansel Hall.
Introduction
This Guide and Trail Companion was brought about by thousands of requests for practical information concerning the many short excursions from Yosemite. Besides briefly describing Yosemite Valley, its scenic features, and the immediately adjacent portion of the Sierra, detailed information has been introduced concerning each trail and road in the region. These are described just as they are actually followed, and attention is called to each point of interest just as it is discovered during the trip itself. As far as possible, complete data has been introduced on condition of trails, time required to make the trips, fis.h.i.+ng, camp sites, forage conditions, etc., in short all kinds of information which would be demanded of a hired guide.
The original draft of this Handbook was prepared in collaboration with Forest S. Townsley, Chief Ranger of Yosemite National Park. Later, each of the Park Rangers suggested valuable additions, and several members of the Sierra Club contributed bits of valuable information. The author has freely consulted old books and pamphlets in the Bancroft Historical Library at the University of California and has included several points of historical interest.
Acknowledgment is also due to Mr. Herbert Maier for the drawings and maps here reproduced and to the United States Geological Survey for permission to reproduce a portion of the ”Administrative Map of Yosemite National Park.”
Suggestions as to additions or corrections which would make this booklet more useful to the public would be greatly appreciated and should be addressed to the author, care of United States National Park Service, Yosemite, California.
ANSEL F. HALL
In charge of Information Yosemite National Park
Yosemite, California May 1, 1920
THE YOSEMITE REGION
”By far the grandest of the western ranges is the Sierra Nevada, a long and ma.s.sive uplift lying between the arid deserts of the Great Basin and the Californian exuberance of grain-fields and orchards; its eastern slope, a defiant wall of rock plunging abruptly down to the plain; the western, a long, dry sweep, well watered and overgrown with cool, stately forests; its crest a line of sharp, snowy peaks springing into the sky and catching the _alpenglow_ long after the sun has set for all the rest of America.”[1]
[1] From ”Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada,” by Charles King.
About midway between the north and south ends of this ”Snowy Range”
and extending from the ragged summits of its eastern edge to the semi-arid foothills at the west, lies Yosemite National Park, 1125 square miles of incomparable scenic beauty.
Yosemite Valley, contrary to most peoples' preconceived idea, lies fully 25 miles west of the Sierra crest. It is countersunk 4000 feet into the granite of the gently inclined plateau, which above its rim averages from 7000 to 8000 feet in elevation. The characteristics of this region immediately adjacent to Yosemite Valley are different from those of the High Sierra to the past. Very little of it is above the timber-line, as the dominating summits--Mount Hoffman (10,921) at the north, Clouds Rest (9924) at the east, Mount Starr King (9179) at the southeast, and Horse Ridge (9600) at the south--average less than 10,000 feet in alt.i.tude. The magnificent forests with which the slopes are clothed are interspersed with perfectly formed granite domes, with meadows and wild-flower gardens, with polished granite pavements, and with innumerable manifestations of Nature which give the trails of the region an ever-changing charm.
YOSEMITE VALLEY
Bisecting this district from east to west is the great trough of Yosemite Valley, its bottom gouged down more than half way to sea level. The same type of geological architecture is exemplified by the Hetch Hetchy a few miles to the north and by the canyons of the San Joaquin, Kings and Kern to the south. In none of these however, are magnitude, beauty and accessibility so ideally combined as in Yosemite.
ORIGIN
As to the origin of these valleys, and of Yosemite in particular, there is still some discussion among scientists. Whitney's old theory of a great cataclysm and the sinking of a small block of the earth's crust has been entirely displaced, and geologists are now seeking to determine if glaciers have been solely responsible for the present landscape or whether ice and water worked hand in hand. A good summary of the various theories of geological history, as well as a popular discussion of all the geological phenomena of the region, is contained in the ”Sketch of Yosemite National Park and an Account of the Origin of Yosemite and Hetch Hetchy Valleys,” by Dr. F. E. Matthes of the U.S. Geological Survey. This government publication may be obtained in Yosemite at the office of the Superintendent for ten cents.
EARLY HISTORY
Yosemite Valley remained undiscovered by white men until in 1850 marauding Indian bands from the mountains raided several foothill trading posts. In retaliation the ”Mariposa Battalion” was organized to subdue these mountain tribes and force them into a large reservation, the San Joaquin Valley. The last to be conquered and the most warlike were the Yosemites living in fancied security in their stronghold, the deep gra.s.sy valley of ”Awahnee.” It was in pursuit of this tribe that the members of the Mariposa Battalion first entered Yosemite on March 21, 1851. The story of the one-sided campaigns which extended over two summers is well told by Dr. W. L. Bunnell, the surgeon of the party, in his ”Discovery of the Yosemite and the Indian War of 1851” (4th Edition, 1911, G. W. Gerlicher, Los Angeles).