Part 25 (1/2)

Side Dishes For caramelized onions, cook 2 pounds sliced onions in about 4 tablespoons sunflower oil, with the lid on, over very low heat, stirring occasionally, for 20-30 minutes, until very soft. Then cook uncovered until they are really very brown, stirring often. Stir in 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon and cook a few minutes more.

Simmer pound raisins in water to cover for about 10 minutes, until soft, and serve them in a bowl.

Soak pound chickpeas for at least 1 hour, then drain and simmer in fresh water for 1 hours, or until very tender, adding salt when they begin to soften. Serve them hot in a bowl in their cooking water.

Kesksou Bidaoui bel Khodra Berber Couscous with Seven Vegetables 1. Serves 10 * This is the most famous Moroccan couscous, which you can improvise around. It can be made with lamb or chicken or with a mix of the two. In local lore, the number seven has mystical qualities. It brings good luck. Choose seven vegetables out of those listed- onions and tomatoes do not count as vegetables but as flavorings, so choose seven more. It is a long list of ingredients, but the making of the dish is simple-a matter of throwing things into a pot-and it feeds a big party. The soup or stew can be prepared well in advance, and so can the grain. * This is the most famous Moroccan couscous, which you can improvise around. It can be made with lamb or chicken or with a mix of the two. In local lore, the number seven has mystical qualities. It brings good luck. Choose seven vegetables out of those listed- onions and tomatoes do not count as vegetables but as flavorings, so choose seven more. It is a long list of ingredients, but the making of the dish is simple-a matter of throwing things into a pot-and it feeds a big party. The soup or stew can be prepared well in advance, and so can the grain.

FOR THE GRAIN.

5 cups couscous 5 cups warm water 1-2 teaspoons salt 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or more oil FOR THE STEW.

3 pounds lean lamb or beef, cut in large pieces, or 1 pounds meat and 1 chicken, cut into pieces 2 large onions, quartered, then cut in thick slices 1 cups chickpeas (soaked overnight) or a 1-pound can, drained 3 tablespoons sunflower oil Pepper teaspoon saffron powder or threads Salt 4 or 5 tomatoes, quartered 1 pound carrots, cut in half lengthwise or into thick pieces 1 pound turnips, peeled and quartered, or left whole if baby ones 1 small or large white cabbage, cut into chunks 1 pound zucchini, cut into big pieces pound fresh sh.e.l.led or frozen fava beans 2 fennel bulbs, quartered 1 pound orange pumpkin, peeled and cut into pieces pound eggplant, cut into pieces 2 green peppers, cut into ribbons 2 chili peppers 1 cup chopped cilantro 1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 teaspoons harissa (page 464), or 2 tablespoons paprika and 1 teaspoon ground chili pepper, or more to taste Prepare the couscous as described in ”An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven” (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above; do not add the final b.u.t.ter till ready to serve.

Put the meats in a large pan with the onions and the drained chickpeas. If you are using canned ones, leave them out now and put them in towards the end of the cooking. Cover with about 3 quarts water, add the oil, pepper, and saffron, and simmer, covered, for 1 hour. Add salt, the tomatoes, carrots, and turnips, and cook for hour more, or until the meats are very tender.

Add the remaining ingredients except the harissa and more water-you need to have plenty of broth-and cook a further hour.

Make a hot, peppery sauce to accompany. Take 3 ladles of broth from the stew and stir in the harissa or the paprika and ground chili pepper-enough to make it very strong and fiery.

To serve, pile the couscous onto a large round dish. Add b.u.t.ter or more oil and work it into the grain as it melts. Shape it into a mound with a pit or crater at the top. Arrange the meat at the top and the vegetables down the sides, and pour a little broth all over.

Serve the broth in a separate bowl. Pa.s.s the broth and the hot, peppery sauce round for people to help themselves.

A French way of serving is to present the couscous separately, and the meat and vegetables with the broth in a large bowl.

Variations You may add cup raisins or pitted dates towards the end.

Other possible flavorings are teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoons cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon coriander.

Algerians put in runner beans and green peas.

Kesksou Tfaya Couscous with Honeyed Caramelized Onions and Raisins 1. Serves 6 * The special feature of this dish is the exquisite mix of honeyed caramelized onions and raisins called * The special feature of this dish is the exquisite mix of honeyed caramelized onions and raisins called tfaya tfaya which is served as a topping of the long-cooked, deliciously tender meat. The broth which moistens the grain is the meat broth. A sprinkling of fried or toasted almonds is an optional garnish. which is served as a topping of the long-cooked, deliciously tender meat. The broth which moistens the grain is the meat broth. A sprinkling of fried or toasted almonds is an optional garnish.

FOR THE GRAIN.

4 cups couscous 4 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra oil 2 pounds lamb, cut into large pieces 2 pounds onions Salt and pepper -1 teaspoon ginger 2 teaspoons cinnamon 4 cloves teaspoon saffron threads or powder 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons honey 1 cup raisins, soaked in water for 20 minutes 1 cup almonds Prepare the grain as described in ”An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven” (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above.

Prepare the meaty stew or soup. In a large pan, put the meat and about pound of the onions, coa.r.s.ely chopped, and cover with about 1 quarts water. Bring to the boil and remove the sc.u.m. Add salt, pepper, the ginger, 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon, and the cloves and simmer for 1 hours. Add the saffron and more water to keep the meat well covered (there should be a lot of broth) and simmer for hour more. The meat should be so tender you could pull it apart with your hands.

For the honeyed onion tfaya tfaya, cut the remaining onions in half and slice them. Put them in a pan with about 1 cup water. Put the lid on and cook, covered, over low heat (they will steam) for about hour, until the onions are very soft. Remove the lid and cook until the liquid has evaporated. Add the b.u.t.ter and oil and cook until the onions are golden. Stir in the honey and the remaining 1 teaspoons cinnamon, the drained raisins, and a pinch of salt and cook 10 minutes more, or until the onions caramelize and become brown.

Toast the almonds in a dry frying pan or fry them in a drop of oil until golden, turning them over. Coa.r.s.ely chop about half of them.

To serve, make a mound of couscous and make a hollow in the center. Moisten with a ladle of the meat broth. Put the meat in the hollow and cover with the onion-and-raisin tfaya tfaya.

Sprinkle with a mixture of chopped and whole toasted or fried blanched almonds, and serve the broth separately. Alternatively, you might prefer to serve everything separately, or straight into soup plates.

Couscous with Squabs and Almonds 1. Serves 6 * In Morocco, they make this elegant couscous with small Mediterranean pigeons, but squabs and small poussins will also do. Morocco, they make this elegant couscous with small Mediterranean pigeons, but squabs and small poussins will also do.

6 small squabs or poussins 3-4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 pound onions, chopped 1 pound pearl or pickling onions, peeled Salt and pepper -1 teaspoon saffron threads 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 cups blanched almonds cup black or golden raisins (optional) Large bunch of cilantro, chopped FOR THE GRAIN.

4 cups couscous 4 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra oil Put the squabs in a very large saucepan with the b.u.t.ter or oil and both the chopped and the pearl or pickling onions (an easy way to peel the pearl or pickling ones is to blanch them first in water, which loosens their skins).

Cover with a little more than 2 quarts water. Add salt, pepper, saffron, ginger, almonds, and raisins, and cook, covered, for 45-60 minutes, turning the squabs over, until they are very tender, adding the cilantro towards the end.

At the same time, prepare the grain as described in ”An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven” (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above.

Before serving, break up any lumps very thoroughly and work in the 3 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter or extra oil. Shape into a mound and arrange the squabs on top. Fish out the onions, almonds, and raisins with a perforated spoon and scatter them around the squabs. Serve the broth separately.

Variation If you like, make a hot sauce to pa.s.s around for people to help themselves if they want to: pour 2 ladles of the stock into a bowl, and mix in 1 teaspoon harissa or more to taste (see page 464), or 1 teaspoon paprika and teaspoon ground chili pepper.

Couscous with Lamb and Prunes In Moroccan restaurants in Paris a popular item on the couscous menu is a tagine of lamb with prunes (see page 254) served with couscous. It is quite delicious. Prepare the couscous as described in ”An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven” (page 376). In bowls, as side dishes, they also give you boiled chickpeas and boiled raisins (page 377). It is a wonderful combination.

Kesksou bel Hout wal Tomatish Couscous with Seafood and a Fresh Tomato Sauce 1. Serves 6 * You can use any firm white fish, such as cod, bream, hake, or haddock, for this Algerian couscous. * You can use any firm white fish, such as cod, bream, hake, or haddock, for this Algerian couscous.

FOR THE GRAIN.

3 cups couscous 3 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra oil 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 pounds large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons sugar 1 inches fresh gingerroot, grated, or crushed in a garlic press to extract the juice Pinch of chili flakes or powder (optional) A 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained 1 tablespoons raisins (optional) 1 pounds fish teaks or fillets, skinned pound large shrimp, sh.e.l.led cup chopped flat-leaf parsley cup chopped cilantro Prepare the grain as described in ”An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven” (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above, and olive oil instead of vegetable oil.

Saute the garlic in the oil for a few seconds. Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, sugar, ginger, chili if using, chickpeas, and raisins if using, and simmer 15 minutes.

Put in the fish and cook 3-4 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook 3-4 minutes more, or until the fish flakes when you cut into it. Add the parsley and cilantro towards the end.

Serve hot, poured over the hot couscous.

Variations For a hot Tunisian version, add 1 teaspoon or more harissa (page 464) to the sauce and omit the chili pepper.

* Garnish with 8 green or black olives.

Couscous with Fish, Tomatoes, and Quinces 1. Serves 6 * Tunisia is famous for fish couscous. This uncommon one is elegant and aromatic, with the mingled scents of saffron and quince. Have the fish cleaned and left whole. It is usually steamed in a separate steamer, but it is better to bake it in foil in the oven, which is a way of steaming it. * Tunisia is famous for fish couscous. This uncommon one is elegant and aromatic, with the mingled scents of saffron and quince. Have the fish cleaned and left whole. It is usually steamed in a separate steamer, but it is better to bake it in foil in the oven, which is a way of steaming it.

FOR THE GRAIN.

3 cups couscous 3 cups warm water -1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra olive oil 3 quinces 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon sugar Salt and pepper V4- teaspoon saffron threads or saffron powder 1 fish such as sea ba.s.s, red snapper, or porgy, weighing about 3 pounds, or 2 smaller ones Prepare the grain as described in ”An Easy Way of Preparing Quick-Cooking Couscous in the Oven” (page 376), using the quant.i.ties given in the ingredients list above, and olive oil instead of vegetable oil.

Cut the quinces in half and trim off the darkened ends. This fruit is very hard, so use a large strong knife to press down on them. Put them in a pan, cover with water, and simmer about 20 minutes, until just tender. Strain and keep the cooking water. Cut into quarters and remove the cores and pips.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil, put in the tomatoes and add the sugar, salt, pepper, and saffron. Cook until the tomatoes soften and fall apart. Put in the quinces and add 2 ladles of the quince water. Simmer until the quinces are very tender. This is the sauce.

Brush a large sheet of foil (or 2 if you are cooking 2 fish) generously with oil. Place the fish in the middle and sprinkle lightly with salt. Wrap in a baggy parcel, twisting the foil edges together to seal it. Bake at 450F. The cooking time depends on the size of the fish. Test for doneness for a large fish after about 30 minutes, for smaller ones after 20 minutes. Cut down to the backbone at the thickest part and check that the flesh flakes and has turned white and opaque right through.

Serve the couscous in a large round dish. Put the fish in the middle and the sauce around it.