Part 24 (1/2)

Remove the sc.u.m and add turmeric, cinnamon, nutmeg, and pepper. Pierce a few little holes in the dried limes with a pointed knife and put them in.

Simmer for 1 hour, then add the drained split peas and cook - 1 hour more, or until the meat and split peas are very tender, adding salt towards the end and more water, if needed, to keep the meat covered. 1 hour more, or until the meat and split peas are very tender, adding salt towards the end and more water, if needed, to keep the meat covered.

Variation The rice and sauce are also served topped with fried diced potatoes. These are added in the pan, at the end of cooking, to sit on the surface of the stew and soak up some of the sauce.

Kh.o.r.esh Bademjan Eggplant Sauce 1. Serves 4-6 * Chicken may be used instead of meat. Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). The eggplants are usually deep-fried, but in this instance it is as good to broil or grill them, as they get stewed as well. If you don't fry them, it is not really important to salt them (see page 289). * Chicken may be used instead of meat. Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). The eggplants are usually deep-fried, but in this instance it is as good to broil or grill them, as they get stewed as well. If you don't fry them, it is not really important to salt them (see page 289).

large onion, chopped Vegetable oil 1 pound lean lamb or beef, cubed 2 dried limes (page 44), cracked or pierced with the point of a knife, or the juice of 1 lemon 3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped Pepper -1 teaspoon turmeric (optional) teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon grated nutmeg cup yellow split peas Salt 6 small eggplants (3-4 inches long), peeled and cut in half lengthwise Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons oil in a large saucepan until golden. Add the meat and brown it on all sides. Add the dried limes or lemon juice, and tomatoes. Cover with 2 cups water and add pepper, turmeric, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

Simmer gently for 1 hour, then add the split peas and cook for 20 minutes. Season with salt when the split peas have begun to soften, and add more water occasionally, if needed to keep the meat covered.

Brush the cut side of the eggplants generously with oil and cook them, on the cut side only, under the broiler or on the grill until browned. They do not need to be entirely cooked, as they will cook further in the stew.

Add them to the stew, and cook, covered, for 30 minutes longer, or until the eggplants are very soft.

Variations Fry 1 small chopped onion in 2 tablespoons oil until golden. Add 2 tablespoons dried crushed mint and 2 crushed garlic cloves. When the garlic just begins to color, pour over the sauce at the end, as a garnish.

If you can get hold of unripe grapes, put them into the stew instead of the dried limes.

Kh.o.r.esht-e Rivas Rhubarb Sauce 1. Serves 4-6 * Serve this Persian sauce, which has an unusual tart flavor, with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). * Serve this Persian sauce, which has an unusual tart flavor, with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339).

4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 pound lean stewing beef or lamb, cubed Salt and pepper teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice 1 pound fresh rhubarb stalks Juice of lemon cup chopped flat-leaf parsley cup chopped fresh mint Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil in a large saucepan and fry the onion until golden. Add the meat and saute, turning the pieces, until browned all over. Cover with water and add salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice. Bring to the boil and simmer for 1 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding water to keep the meat covered.

Trim the rhubarb stalks and cut them into 2-inch lengths. Saute in the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil for a few minutes, then sprinkle with lemon juice and cook for a few minutes longer. Add to the meat sauce with the parsley and mint and simmer for 10 minutes.

Kh.o.r.esht-e Sib Apple Sauce 1. Serves 4-6 * Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339). * Serve with plain rice steamed in the Persian manner (page 338) or the quick and easy boiled and steamed rice (page 339).

1 onion, finely chopped 4-5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 pound lamb or beef, cut into cubes Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon 4 tart cooking apples Juice of 1 lemon, or more Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil in a large saucepan until soft and golden. Add the meat, and turn to brown it all over. Add salt, pepper, and cinnamon. Cover with about 2 2 cups of water. Bring to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, and simmer gently for 1 cups of water. Bring to the boil, remove any sc.u.m, and simmer gently for 1 1 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender, adding water as needed to keep the meat moist. hours, or until the meat is very tender, adding water as needed to keep the meat moist.

Peel and core the apples and cut into thick slices. Saute gently in the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil in a large skillet until lightly colored all over. Add to the meat stew with the lemon juice. Cook for a further 5 minutes, or until tender. Do not allow the apples to disintegrate, unless you prefer to mash them to a puree with a fork.

Serve with plain rice.

Variation You can add cup split peas to the stew 1 hour before the end of the cooking, and chicken can be used instead of meat.

Kh.o.r.esht-e Holu Peach Sauce Peaches are much loved in Iran and are used in cooking. Prepare this sauce as in the preceding recipe, using either meat or chicken, and subst.i.tuting 4-5 large, slightly unripe peaches or nectarines, preferably not-quite-ripe ones, for the apples. To peel them easily, first plunge them in boiling water for moments only. Then peel, remove the pits, and slice them or cut them into largish pieces. Saute briefly in b.u.t.ter or oil, and add them to the sauce with cup chopped flat-leaf parsley and 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint. Simmer for a further 5 to 10 minutes. Here again, lemon juice and cinnamon are the flavoring. Some people like to add about 1-2 tablespoons sugar.

Bulgur, Couscous, and Pasta Bulgur Craked Wheat Cracked wheat-burghul in Arabic, in Arabic, bulgur bulgur in Turkey, and in Turkey, and pourgouri pourgouri in Cyprus-is the rural staple of the Arab world and Turkey. In the countryside it takes the place of rice as an accompaniment to all kinds of dishes. It is whole wheat kernels that have been boiled, then dried and ground. In the old days in rural areas, before mechanization, and still today in some parts, it is made collectively. The men harvest the wheat. The women separate the grain from the chaff. They wash the grain and boil it for hours in huge pots until it splits, then dry it in the sun, spread out on large sheets laid out on the flat roofs of houses or in the fields. When it is dry and hard, it is taken to be ground in a stone mill. Bulgur is now manufactured in the United States. Three types of grind-coa.r.s.e, medium, and fine-can be found in Middle Eastern stores, but the medium one is the most widely available. Bulgur is usually washed before cooking. Pour cold water over it in a bowl. Stir well, then rinse in a small-holed colander under the tap. However, when I have omitted was.h.i.+ng, I have not detected much difference in the final dish. in Cyprus-is the rural staple of the Arab world and Turkey. In the countryside it takes the place of rice as an accompaniment to all kinds of dishes. It is whole wheat kernels that have been boiled, then dried and ground. In the old days in rural areas, before mechanization, and still today in some parts, it is made collectively. The men harvest the wheat. The women separate the grain from the chaff. They wash the grain and boil it for hours in huge pots until it splits, then dry it in the sun, spread out on large sheets laid out on the flat roofs of houses or in the fields. When it is dry and hard, it is taken to be ground in a stone mill. Bulgur is now manufactured in the United States. Three types of grind-coa.r.s.e, medium, and fine-can be found in Middle Eastern stores, but the medium one is the most widely available. Bulgur is usually washed before cooking. Pour cold water over it in a bowl. Stir well, then rinse in a small-holed colander under the tap. However, when I have omitted was.h.i.+ng, I have not detected much difference in the final dish.

Plain Bulgur Pilaf 1. Serves 6-8 * Coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur is used to make pilaf. About one and a half times the volume of water or stock is needed to cook it. This quick and easy dish is an ideal alternative to rice or potatoes. You may well want to adopt it as an accompaniment to stews, grills, and indeed to all foods that are usually coupled with rice. It is tastier when real chicken or meat stock is used (see page 143), but you can use bouillon cubes, and water alone will do very well. * Coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur is used to make pilaf. About one and a half times the volume of water or stock is needed to cook it. This quick and easy dish is an ideal alternative to rice or potatoes. You may well want to adopt it as an accompaniment to stews, grills, and indeed to all foods that are usually coupled with rice. It is tastier when real chicken or meat stock is used (see page 143), but you can use bouillon cubes, and water alone will do very well.

4 cups water or stock (or you may use 2 bouillon cubes) 3 cups coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained Salt and pepper 4-5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces, or vegetable oil Bring the water or stock to the boil in a large pan and pour in the bulgur. Add salt and pepper (taking into account the saltiness of the stock) and cook, covered, over low heat for 10-15 minutes, until it is tender and all the liquid is absorbed, adding a little water if it becomes too dry.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter or oil and leave off heat, covered, for 15 minutes, to allow the wheat to swell and become tender before serving.

Variations For a grand and delicious pilaf, stir in 2-3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts or slivered almonds and 2 tablespoons raisins when you pour in the bulgur.

For burghul bil s.h.a.ghria burghul bil s.h.a.ghria, use half the amount of bulgur with pound dry vermicelli broken into small pieces in your hands and toasted in a dry frying pan or under the broiler, stirring often, until browned.

Bulgur Pilaf with Chickpeas 1. Serves 8 * This is filling comfort food which fits easily with other dishes. You find it in Turkey and in Arab countries. * This is filling comfort food which fits easily with other dishes. You find it in Turkey and in Arab countries.

4 cups water or chicken or meat stock (page 143) (or you may use 2 meat or chicken bouillon cubes) 3 cups coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or sunflower oil A 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained Salt and pepper Bring the stock to the boil. Pour in the bulgur and cook, covered, on low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the water is absorbed and the grain is tender.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter or oil, the chickpeas, and salt and pepper, and heat through.

Variation Garnish with 1 large sliced onion fried in oil till caramelized and brown.

Bulgur Pilaf with Raisins and Pine Nuts 1. Serves 6-8* This grand bulgur pilaf spread throughout the countries that were part of the Ottoman Empire. It is used as a side dish and a stuffing. This grand bulgur pilaf spread throughout the countries that were part of the Ottoman Empire. It is used as a side dish and a stuffing.

4 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use a bouillon cube) or water 3 cups (1 pound) coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained Salt and pepper cup pine nuts 4-5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil cup black or golden raisins, soaked in water for hour Bring the water or stock to boil in a pan. Add the bulgur, salt (taking into account the saltiness of the stock), and pepper and stir, then cook, covered, on very low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and the grain tender. Turn off the heat and leave, covered, for 10 minutes, or until the grain is plump and tender.

Fry the pine nuts in a tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter or oil, shaking the pan until golden. Stir it into the bulgur with the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil and the drained raisins and heat through.

Burghul bi Banadoura Bulgur Pilaf with Tomatoes 1. Serves 6-8 * Tomatoes give this pilaf a wonderful fresh flavor. It can be eaten hot as a side dish or cold as a mezze. If it is to be eaten cold, you might like to use a mild-tasting olive oil. Tomatoes give this pilaf a wonderful fresh flavor. It can be eaten hot as a side dish or cold as a mezze. If it is to be eaten cold, you might like to use a mild-tasting olive oil.

1 large onion, chopped 5 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 3 cups coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped 2 teaspoons tomato paste 2 teaspoons sugar Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon allspice 1 cups water Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil till golden. Add the bulgur and stir well.

Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar, salt, pepper, allspice, and water. Stir and cook, covered, over very low heat for 15 minutes, adding a little water if too dry, or letting it evaporate uncovered if too wet. Leave to rest, covered, for 10 minutes, or until the grain is plump and tender, then stir in the remaining oil.

Variation Fry 2 medium eggplants, cut into 1-inch cubes, in shallow oil until lightly browned all over and soft inside. Drain on paper towels and fold gently into the bulgur.

Burghul bi Jibn wal Batinjan Bulgur with Cheese and Eggplants 1. Serves 4-6 * This Syrian recipe which combines bulgur with eggplants and the salty, chewy halumi cheese makes a lovely vegetarian main dish. * This Syrian recipe which combines bulgur with eggplants and the salty, chewy halumi cheese makes a lovely vegetarian main dish.

1 eggplant, weighing about pound, cut into 1-inch cubes Salt 1 large onions, sliced Vegetable oil 2 cups coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur, washed in cold water and drained 3 cups boiling water or chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use a bouillon cube) Pepper 7-9 ounces halumi cheese, cubed Sprinkle the eggplant generously with salt and leave in a colander for hour to degorge its juices. Then rinse, and dry with paper towels.

Fry the onions in 2 tablespoons oil till golden. Add the bulgur and stir. Pour in the boiling water or stock, season with salt and pepper, and stir well, then cook on very low heat, with the lid on, for about 15 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed and the cracked wheat is tender.

Fry the cubed eggplant briefly in hot oil, turning the cubes so that they are lightly colored all over. Lift out, and drain on paper towels.

Stir 4 tablespoons oil into the bulgur. Add the cheese and the eggplant and gently fold them in. Heat through with the lid on until the cheese is soft. Serve very hot.

Burghul bi Dfeen Bulgur with Meat and Chickpeas 1. Serves 6 * A very old Arab dish. It is good to serve yogurt with it. * A very old Arab dish. It is good to serve yogurt with it.

12 pearl or pickling onions, peeled Vegetable oil 1 pound lean lamb or beef, cut into-inch cubes cup chickpeas, soaked in cold water overnight 5 cups water Pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon allspice Salt 2 cups coa.r.s.e- or medium-ground bulgur 4-6 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter (optional) Fry the onions in 2-3 tablespoons oil, shaking the pan to brown them lightly all over. Add the meat and saute, turning the pieces over, until browned.

Add the drained chickpeas and cover with water. Add pepper, teaspoon cinnamon, and the allspice and simmer, covered, until the meat and chickpeas are very tender, about 1-1 hours. Add salt when the chickpeas have softened.

Add the bulgur, stir well, and cook, covered, for about 15 minutes, until all the liquid has been absorbed, adding a little water if it seems too dry. Let sit, covered, for about 15 minutes, while the grain becomes swollen and tender. It is usual to pour melted b.u.t.ter into the pan before serving, but you may leave this out.

Serve sprinkled with the remaining cinnamon.

Etli Bulgur Pilavi Bulgur Pilafwith Meat 1. Serves 6 * This old Turkish cla.s.sic is a meal in itself, to be accompanied by a salad. * This old Turkish cla.s.sic is a meal in itself, to be accompanied by a salad.