Part 18 (2/2)

Variation Stir in 2 cups natural or thick Greek-style strained yogurt before serving, or pa.s.s the pot round for people to help themselves.

Kousa Makli Fried Zucchini Slices Serves 4 Some people like to dip the zucchini slices in flour, which is supposed to seal them so that they absorb less oil, but it makes little difference. One popular way of serving them is accompanied with yogurt, or with a tomato sauce (page 464). Some people like to dip the zucchini slices in flour, which is supposed to seal them so that they absorb less oil, but it makes little difference. One popular way of serving them is accompanied with yogurt, or with a tomato sauce (page 464).

4 zucchini, cut lengthwise into slices about inch thick Flour (optional) Salt Vegetable or olive oil for frying If you like, dip the zucchini slices in flour seasoned with a little salt, turning to cover them lightly all over. I leave this procedure out. you like, dip the zucchini slices in flour seasoned with a little salt, turning to cover them lightly all over. I leave this procedure out.

Heat enough oil in a large pan to cover the bottom amply, and fry the slices until golden, turning over once. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt if you haven't used the flour seasoned with salt.

Variations For kousa makli bel khal kousa makli bel khal, fry the zucchini without coating them in flour and serve sprinkled with a little wine vinegar.

For kousa ateh kousa ateh, saute round slices in 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil with 3 or 4 chopped garlic cloves and 1-2 tablespoons dried mint.

Kousa bi Gebna Zucchini Gratin with Cheese Serves 6-8 This is a family dish we all loved. My mother accompanied it with yogurt. The fried onions and large amount of sharp cheese lift the usually somewhat insipid taste of zucchini. This is a family dish we all loved. My mother accompanied it with yogurt. The fried onions and large amount of sharp cheese lift the usually somewhat insipid taste of zucchini.

1 large onion, chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 pounds zucchini, cut into -inch slices Salt 3 eggs, lightly beaten 2 cups shredded mature cheddar cheese White pepper Pinch of grated nutmeg Fry the onion in oil till soft and golden. Poach the zucchini in salted water for a few minutes, until only just tender, and drain.

In a bowl, mix the eggs and cheese, add pepper and nutmeg, and fold in the onions and zucchini.

Pour into a greased ovenproof dish and bake in a preheated 350F oven for about 30 minutes, or until firm and lightly browned.

Serve hot or cold.

Fried, Broiled, Grilled, or Roasted Eggplant Slices Two or three eggplants weighing about 1 pounds total serve 6 people as a mezze or as an accompaniment to poultry or meat. Cook them in one of the following ways to serve hot or cold. Slices are generally about Vbinch thick.

TO FRY.

Slice the unpeeled eggplants. Salt them for 1 1 hour, rinse them, and pat them dry with paper towels. Deep-fry in about inch very hot vegetable or bland olive oil until browned and soft when you p.r.i.c.k them with a fork, turning them over once. Drain on paper towels. hour, rinse them, and pat them dry with paper towels. Deep-fry in about inch very hot vegetable or bland olive oil until browned and soft when you p.r.i.c.k them with a fork, turning them over once. Drain on paper towels.

As fritters in a light batter: For the batter, pour cup sparkling water gradually into cup all-purpose flour, whisking vigorously, then beat in 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and a little salt. Leave for hour, then beat an egg white until stiff and fold it into the batter. (A Tunisian batter is 2 eggs beaten with 3 tablespoons flour.) Dip the eggplant slices in the batter and deep-fry till crisp and golden and soft within, turning over once. Drain on paper towels.

TO BROIL.

Peel the eggplants, then slice (they should be peeled because the skins remain tough when they are broiled). Brush the slices generously with vegetable or olive oil and cook on the barbecue or under the broiler for 6-8 minutes, turning over once.

TO GRILL.

Peel the eggplants, then slice (they should be peeled because the skins remain tough when they are grilled). Brush the slices generously with vegetable or olive oil and cook on an oiled grill for 6-8 minutes, turning over once.

TO ROAST.

Peel the eggplants, then slice them (they should be peeled because the skins remain tough when they are roasted). Place the slices on a piece of foil and brush generously with vegetable or olive oil. Cook in a preheated 475F oven until lightly browned and soft inside.

Betingan Meshwi bel Dibs al Rumman Roasted Eggplants with Pomegranate Syrup Serves 4 The best eggplants to use for this are white-fleshed with no seeds. The best eggplants to use for this are white-fleshed with no seeds.

4 medium-small eggplants 3 tablespoons pomegranate syrup (mola.s.ses or concentrate) 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt Pinch of ground chili pepper cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Roast the eggplants whole in the oven or under the broiler, turning them over, until they feel very soft when you press.

Mix the rest of the ingredients together as a dressing.

To serve, cut the eggplants in half lengthwise and pour the dressing over the flesh.

Variation Use 2 tablespoons balsamic or wine vinegar instead of pomegranate syrup.

Ma'loubet el Betingan Eggplant and Rice Mold Serves 6-8 Ma'louba Ma'louba means ”upside down” in Arabic. This is a layered meat, vegetable, and rice dish which is turned out upside down like a cake without disturbing the layers. A special wide pan with short straight sides is used to cook it. The eggplant is normally fried first, but broiling in this case does not impair the flavor. It is famously a Palestinian dish. The rice absorbs the meat sauce and the flavor of the eggplants and becomes soft and brown. Serve it with yogurt. means ”upside down” in Arabic. This is a layered meat, vegetable, and rice dish which is turned out upside down like a cake without disturbing the layers. A special wide pan with short straight sides is used to cook it. The eggplant is normally fried first, but broiling in this case does not impair the flavor. It is famously a Palestinian dish. The rice absorbs the meat sauce and the flavor of the eggplants and becomes soft and brown. Serve it with yogurt.

2 onions, chopped Vegetable oil 1 pound lamb or beef, cut into -inch cubes Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice 2 pounds eggplants, cut into -inch-thick slices 2 cups long-grain or basmati rice, washed cup toasted pine nuts, to garnish (optional) In a large pan (at least 10 inches wide), fry the onions in 3 tablespoons oil over very low heat, with the lid on, until soft. Add the meat and brown it all over. Cover with water, add salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice, and cook for about 1 hour, or until the meat is tender, adding water to keep it covered. a large pan (at least 10 inches wide), fry the onions in 3 tablespoons oil over very low heat, with the lid on, until soft. Add the meat and brown it all over. Cover with water, add salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice, and cook for about 1 hour, or until the meat is tender, adding water to keep it covered.

Meanwhile, arrange the eggplants on a baking sheet, brush both sides generously with oil, and sprinkle very lightly with salt. Broil under a preheated broiler, turning over once, until lightly browned on both sides.

In the pan, off the heat, put a layer of eggplant slices on top of the meat. Pour half the rice evenly over them and sprinkle with a little salt. Arrange a second layer of eggplant slices and pour the remaining rice all over them. Sprinkle with a little salt and add enough water to just cover the rice. Do not stir, and cover with a lid. Bring to the boil, then simmer on the lowest possible heat for about 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender, adding water if it becomes too dry. Leave to rest and keep hot for 20 minutes before serving.

Place a large round serving platter on top of the pan and quickly turn upside down, tapping the bottom of the pan, so that the contents come out undisturbed. Garnish, if you like, with pine nuts.

Variations Add 4 peeled and chopped tomatoes to the meat.

For ma'loubet al arnabeet, ma'loubet al arnabeet, use fried cauliflower florets (page 296) instead of eggplants. use fried cauliflower florets (page 296) instead of eggplants.

For ma'loubet al bamia, ma'loubet al bamia, use 1 pounds boiled okra instead of eggplants. use 1 pounds boiled okra instead of eggplants.

Recipes from Baghdad (see bibliography) gives a recipe for a (see bibliography) gives a recipe for a maklouba maklouba with 1 pound fresh or frozen chestnuts instead of eggplants. Make a gash in the skin on the flat side of each chestnut and broil them under a preheated broiler until the skins loosen. Peel as soon as they are cool enough to handle. with 1 pound fresh or frozen chestnuts instead of eggplants. Make a gash in the skin on the flat side of each chestnut and broil them under a preheated broiler until the skins loosen. Peel as soon as they are cool enough to handle.

Whole Roasted Peppers with Yogurt and Fresh Tomato Sauce Serves 6 Bell peppers change in color as they ripen from olive, pale, and bright green to vivid yellow and red. The red ones are the ripest and sweetest. In Turkey they are roasted or deep-fried whole and served hot as a first course accompanied with yogurt or with a tomato sauce. There is no need to peel them. A long, pointed, piquant (but not hot) variety is also prepared in the same way. Bell peppers change in color as they ripen from olive, pale, and bright green to vivid yellow and red. The red ones are the ripest and sweetest. In Turkey they are roasted or deep-fried whole and served hot as a first course accompanied with yogurt or with a tomato sauce. There is no need to peel them. A long, pointed, piquant (but not hot) variety is also prepared in the same way.

6 fleshy bell peppers 2 cups plain whole-milk or thick Greek-style strained yogurt FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE.

3 cloves garlic, chopped 1-2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon sugar Salt A good pinch of ground chili pepper or flakes 2 tablespoons vinegar Put the bell peppers on a piece of foil on a baking sheet and roast in a preheated 350F oven for -l hour, until soft and browned in parts, turning them over once.

For the tomato sauce, heat the garlic in the oil, stirring for a few seconds only, until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes, sugar, salt, and chili pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, until reduced and thick. Add the vinegar towards the end. Serve the peppers whole. Do not peel them. Pa.s.s around the yogurt and the tomato sauce for people to help themselves.

Variations Mix 1-2 crushed garlic cloves with the yogurt and add a little salt.

Small eggplants, one for each person, can be roasted whole at the same time and served with the peppers.

Roasted Tomatoes Serves 4-8 Moroccan Moroccan tomates confites tomates confites have a deliciously intense flavor. Serve them hot or cold with grilled meat or fish or as an appetizer. have a deliciously intense flavor. Serve them hot or cold with grilled meat or fish or as an appetizer.

8 ripe plum tomatoes Olive oil Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons sugar ripe plum tomatoes Olive oil Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons sugar Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Brush an oven dish or baking sheet (or a piece of foil) with olive oil and place the tomatoes on it, cut side up. Sprinkle each with salt, pepper, and sugar (sprinkle the sugar with your fingers) and cook in a 275F oven for 3 -4 hours, until shriveled and shrunken. Serve them hot or cold, cut side up, on a flat platter.

Bamia bel Banadoura Okra in Tomato Sauce Serves 4-6 Okra is one of the most popular vegetables in the Middle East. Cooked this way, it may be served cold as a salad, or hot with rice, or as a side dish with meat or chicken. Okra is one of the most popular vegetables in the Middle East. Cooked this way, it may be served cold as a salad, or hot with rice, or as a side dish with meat or chicken.

1 pound okra, preferably small young ones 1 large onion, cut in half and sliced 3 tablespoons sunflower or extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and pepper Juice of lemon (optional) 1-2 teaspoons sugar A small bunch of flat-leaf parsley or cilantro, chopped With a small, sharp knife, cut off the stems and trim the caps of the okra and rinse well. Fry the onion in the oil till golden. Add the garlic, and fry for moments only, until the aroma rises. Now add the okra and saute gently for about 5 minutes, turning over the pods.

Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, lemon, and 1 teaspoon of the sugar and simmer 20 minutes, or until the okra is tender and the sauce reduced. Taste, and add more sugar if you like. Stir in the parsley or cilantro and cook a minute more.

Variation From the start add 1 or 2 dried limes (see page 44), cracked open with a hammer or pierced with a skewer when they have softened, or 2-3 teaspoons of dried ground limes, instead of the lemon juice.

Bamia bel Takleya Okra with Garlic and Coriander Serves 4-6 Takleya Takleya is the name of the fried garlic-and-coriander mix which gives a distinctive Egyptian flavor to a number of dishes. It goes in at the end. In Upper Egypt they chop up and mash the okra when it is cooked. Serve hot as a side dish with meat or chicken. is the name of the fried garlic-and-coriander mix which gives a distinctive Egyptian flavor to a number of dishes. It goes in at the end. In Upper Egypt they chop up and mash the okra when it is cooked. Serve hot as a side dish with meat or chicken.

1 pound okra, small young ones 1 onion, chopped 3 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper Juice of -1 lemon (optional) 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 -2 teaspoons ground corianderWith a small, sharp knife, cut off the stems and trim the caps of the okra, then rinse well.

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