Part 18 (1/2)

Slice the sweetbreads and put them in the skillet. Dust lightly with cinnamon and cook the slices for 1 minute on each side.

Squeeze lemon juice over them and serve.

Vegetables KHODAR.

Vegetables and legumes have had an important place in a part of the world where much of the population was composed of impoverished peasants who could rarely afford meat-maybe once a week, or sometimes only on festive occasions. Vegetables are much loved and hold a dignified, sometimes splendid position in the hierarchy of food, representing both everyday and celebratory foods, in turn appetizers, pickles, salads, main and side dishes, as well as integral partners in meat and poultry dishes. You find the same vegetables in all the countries of the Middle East. When the Arabs began their thrust into the region in the seventh century, extending the Islamic domain across the Middle East and North Africa, they spread the cultivation of spinach, eggplants, artichokes, squashes, and fava beans. They also spread ways of cooking and combining them.

The new crops from the New World of the Americas-tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, corn, beans, and pumpkins-which had been brought to Spain and Portugal by the Conquistadors in the sixteenth century, arrived very late in the Muslim Orient. Most were adopted in the Arab world as late as the nineteenth century, when that world became fascinated with things European. The new vegetables were integrated into the old dishes and were also used in new ways that quickly became typical of the particular area. The tomato arrived in the late nineteenth century and had a dramatic effect, revolutionizing the cuisines of the area. It was introduced in Aleppo in 1851, where it was called franji franji, which means ”French,” as everything that came from Europe was then called. In Egypt it was introduced in 1880, and in Algeria in 1910. Nowadays there is hardly a dish in Algeria which does not include a tomato or tomato paste. Middle Eastern cuisines today seem inconceivable without the tomato, which has a very important place. One way of cooking almost all vegetables involves a tomato sauce with onions or garlic, the origin of which is the Spanish sofrito sofrito. In the past that sauce was reduced until it was thick and jammy and strong-tasting, but these days many people cook it for less time and it has a lighter, fresher taste.

Of the many different categories of vegetable dishes, there are those that are deep-fried, either with or without batter; those cooked in tomato sauce; those cooked in b.u.t.ter and served hot; and those cooked in olive oil and served cold. Turkey has a famous range of dishes called zeytinyagli zeytinyagli, which means they are cooked in olive oil. There are famous couplings with legumes like lentils, chickpeas, and beans; layered gratins with cheese and eggs; and endless varieties of stuffed vegetables. Those who are interested in vegetarian dishes will also find some in other chapters, such as those on appetizers, eggs, rice, and bulgur.

Certain vegetarian dishes are a.s.sociated with Christian communities because of the fasts prescribed by the Eastern Orthodox Churches, the Roman Catholic and Armenian Churches, and the Coptic Church of Egypt. Until a few decades ago in Syria and Lebanon, Christians felt obliged to abide by the strict dietary rules laid down by their church. These rules prohibited all foods derived from animals, including dairy products, for forty days before Christmas and Easter, and fifteen days before the a.s.sumption of the Virgin Mary, as well as on every Wednesday and Friday in the year. Nowadays restrictions have generally been dropped, and those who can afford to, eat meat every day, be it in very small quant.i.ties in a stew or a stuffing. But many of the old meatless dishes are still characterized as the Lenten dishes and part of the cooking traditions of the Christians of Syria, Lebanon, and Greece and of the Copts of Egypt.

Artichokes and Preserved Lemons with Honey Spices Serves 4-6 This is good hot or cold, as a first course. The Moroccan play of flavors, which combines preserved lemon with honey, garlic, turmeric, and ginger, makes this a sensational dish. I make it with the frozen Egyptian artichoke bottoms that I find in Oriental stores. If you want to use fresh ones, see the box below to prepare them. This is good hot or cold, as a first course. The Moroccan play of flavors, which combines preserved lemon with honey, garlic, turmeric, and ginger, makes this a sensational dish. I make it with the frozen Egyptian artichoke bottoms that I find in Oriental stores. If you want to use fresh ones, see the box below to prepare them.

3 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil - teaspoon powdered ginger Pinch of turmeric Juice of 1 lemon 1 -2 tablespoons honey Peel of 1 preserved lemons (page 459), cut into strips 1 pound (1 packages) frozen artichoke bottoms Salt Heat the garlic in the oil for a few seconds only, stirring. Take the pan off the heat and add the ginger, turmeric, lemon juice, honey, and preserved lemons. Put in the artichoke bottoms and add a little more than a cup of water and some salt. Cover, and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender, turning them so that every part gets to cook in the liquid, and adding a little water if necessary. Remove the lid to reduce the sauce at the end.

Kharshouf bel Ful wal Loz Artichokes, Fava Beans, and Almonds Serves 4 The Copts of Egypt observe a long and arduous fast during Lent-El Soum e Kibir-when they abstain from every kind of animal food, such as meat, eggs, milk, b.u.t.ter, and cheese, and eat only bread and vegetables, chiefly fava beans. The Copts of Egypt observe a long and arduous fast during Lent-El Soum e Kibir-when they abstain from every kind of animal food, such as meat, eggs, milk, b.u.t.ter, and cheese, and eat only bread and vegetables, chiefly fava beans.

Artichoke hearts and fava beans in oil is a favorite Lenten dish, also popular with the Greeks of Egypt. These two vegetables are partnered in every Middle Eastern country, and indeed all around the Mediterranean, but this dish with almonds is uncommon and particularly appealing.

You can find frozen artichoke hearts and bottoms from Egypt that are difficult to tel from fresh ones, and frozen skinned fava (or broad) beans in Middle Eastern stores. But if you want to use fresh ones, see the box on the opposite page for preparing artichoke hearts or bottoms. If your fava beans are young and tender, you do not need to skin them.

1 tablespoon flour or cornstarch 1 cups water 2-3 teaspoons sugar Juice of 1 lemon 3 sprigs of dill, chopped 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed or finely chopped Salt 3-4 tablespoons mild extra-virgin olive oil A 7-ounce package frozen skinned fava (broad) beans, defrosted A 14-ounce package frozen artichoke hearts or bottoms, defrosted cup blanched almonds In a small bowl, mix the flour or cornstarch with a tablespoon or two of the water to a smooth paste and pour into a pan with the rest of the water. Add sugar, lemon juice, dill, garlic, and a little salt and bring to the boil, stirring vigorously so that the flour does not go lumpy. Simmer for about 10 minutes, then beat in the oil. a small bowl, mix the flour or cornstarch with a tablespoon or two of the water to a smooth paste and pour into a pan with the rest of the water. Add sugar, lemon juice, dill, garlic, and a little salt and bring to the boil, stirring vigorously so that the flour does not go lumpy. Simmer for about 10 minutes, then beat in the oil.

Put in the fava beans, artichoke bottoms, and almonds and cook gently for 15-20 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and the sauce is reduced.

Serve hot or cold as a first course. An attractive way is to spoon the broad beans and almonds into the artichoke cups.

Variation Use young garden peas or pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois instead of fava beans. instead of fava beans.

Ful Ahdar bel Laban Fava Beans with Yogurt Serves 6 Fava beans are the most important vegetable of Egypt. Buy young, tender ones in their season. If they are very young, you can cook them in their pods, which you cut into pieces. Some supermarkets sell young fava beans already sh.e.l.led in packets, which do not need to be skinned. Older beans have tough skins as well as tough pods. The skinned frozen ones you can buy in Middle Eastern stores are particularly good. Fava beans are the most important vegetable of Egypt. Buy young, tender ones in their season. If they are very young, you can cook them in their pods, which you cut into pieces. Some supermarkets sell young fava beans already sh.e.l.led in packets, which do not need to be skinned. Older beans have tough skins as well as tough pods. The skinned frozen ones you can buy in Middle Eastern stores are particularly good.

1 pound fresh sh.e.l.led fava beans Salt 1-2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature Pepper 2 teaspoons dried mint (optional) Boil the beans in salted water until tender, and drain. Heat the oil in the pan and add the garlic with the beans. Stir over low heat until the aroma rises. Mix the yogurt with a little salt and pepper-and the mint, if you like.

Serve the beans with the yogurt poured over.

Variations You may pour the yogurt into the pan with the beans. Stir over low heat, but do not let it boil, or the yogurt will curdle.

For ful ahdar bel cosbara ful ahdar bel cosbara, omit the yogurt and add the juice of lemon and 4 tablespoons chopped cilantro to the beans.

Spinach with Raisins and Pine Nuts Serves 4 This makes a good side dish. The Arabs brought it all the way to Spain and Italy. This makes a good side dish. The Arabs brought it all the way to Spain and Italy.

1 pound spinach 1 medium onion, chopped 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons pine nuts 2 tablespoons raisins, soaked in water for 15 minutes Wash the spinach, and remove stems only if they are thick and tough. Drain, and press the excess water out. Put the leaves in a pan with the lid on. Cook over low heat for moments only, until they crumple to a soft ma.s.s. They will steam in the water that clings to them.

In another pan, fry the onion in the oil till golden. Stir in the pine nuts and let them color lightly. Add the spinach and the drained raisins. Season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, for a minute or so. Serve hot.

Sabanekh bel Hummus Spinach with Chickpeas Serves 6 The combination of spinach with chickpeas is common throughout the Middle East, but the flavors here are Egyptian. You may use good-quality canned chickpeas. It is good served with yogurt. The combination of spinach with chickpeas is common throughout the Middle East, but the flavors here are Egyptian. You may use good-quality canned chickpeas. It is good served with yogurt.

cup chickpeas, soaked overnight, or a cup chickpeas, soaked overnight, or a 14-ounce can cooked chickpeas Salt 2 pounds spinach 4-6 cloves garlic, chopped 1 teaspoons ground coriander 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Pepper Juice of 1 lemon (optional) If you are using the dried and soaked chickpeas, drain and boil them in fresh water for 1 hours, or until very tender, adding salt when they begin to soften. you are using the dried and soaked chickpeas, drain and boil them in fresh water for 1 hours, or until very tender, adding salt when they begin to soften.

Wash the spinach and remove stems only if they are thick and tough, then drain well.

In a large pan, fry the garlic and coriander in the oil, stirring, until the aroma rises. Pack in the spinach without adding any water, cover with a lid, and put over low heat until the leaves crumple to a soft ma.s.s. Add the drained chickpeas-cooked or canned-season with a little salt and pepper, mix very well, and cook a few minutes more. If there is too much liquid, reduce a little on high heat.

Serve hot or cold, with a squeeze of lemon if you like.

Variations Fry 1 large chopped onion in 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add 2 medium peeled and chopped tomatoes and 1 teaspoon sugar and cook until reduced, then stir in the cooked spinach and the chickpeas.

White haricot or navy beans may be used instead of chickpeas.

Sabanekh bel Tamatem wal Loz Spinach with Tomatoes and Almonds Serves 4 Spinach, like most vegetables in the Arab world, is also cooked with tomatoes. Almonds are a special touch. Spinach, like most vegetables in the Arab world, is also cooked with tomatoes. Almonds are a special touch.

1 pound spinach 1 onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and pepper cup blanched almonds, toasted or fried (optional) Wash the spinach, and remove stems only if they are hard and thick. Put it in a pan with the lid on and no extra water over low heat. Cook for moments only, until the leaves crumple in a soft ma.s.s.

Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil until soft and golden. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper and cook until reduced a little. Stir in the spinach. Fry the almonds in the remaining oil and stir them in. Serve hot.

Spinach with Garlic and Preserved Lemon Serves 4 A North African dish which can be served hot as a side dish or cold as a salad. A North African dish which can be served hot as a side dish or cold as a salad.

1 pound spinach 3 cloves garlic, chopped 3 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil Salt teaspoon ground chili pepper Peel of preserved lemon (page 459), chopped Wash the spinach, and remove stems only if they are hard and thick. Drain, and press the excess water out.

Heat the garlic in the oil in a large pan. When the aroma rises, put in the spinach with no extra water. Cook over low heat with the lid on, until the leaves crumple in a soft ma.s.s. Add salt, chili pepper, and preserved lemon, stir well, and cook for a few minutes more.

Serve hot or cold.

Aloo Sfenaj Spinach and Prunes with Beans Serves 6 A Persian dish. A Persian dish.

2 pounds spinach 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon cinnamon cup pitted prunes cup black-eyed peas or red beans, soaked for 1 hour, or 1 pound canned Salt and pepper Wash the spinach and drain. Remove the stems only if they are tough.

Fry the onion in the oil in a large pan until golden. Stir in the turmeric and cinnamon and add the prunes and drained peas or beans. Cover with water, and cook about hour, or until the peas or beans are soft.

Pack the spinach in the pan, cover with a lid, and cook until it crumples to a soft ma.s.s. Add salt and pepper, stir, and mix well, and cook for 5 minutes more.

Hindbeh wa Ba.s.sal Curly Chicory with Onions Serves 6 Chicory is one of the vegetables believed to have been eaten in ancient Egypt. It has a pleasant, slightly bitter taste when it is cooked. In this Lebanese mountain dish, wild chicory is used. Chicory is one of the vegetables believed to have been eaten in ancient Egypt. It has a pleasant, slightly bitter taste when it is cooked. In this Lebanese mountain dish, wild chicory is used.

1 large head of chicory or frisee (about 1 pound) Salt 1 large onion, sliced 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic A 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained (optional) Pepper 2 lemons, cut in quarters Trim off the stem end of the chicory and wash the leaves. Boil in salted water for 5-10 minutes, until soft, then drain thoroughly, and press the excess water out. Cut the leaves up into medium pieces.

Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan until quite brown, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic, and when the aroma rises, stir in the chicory and the chickpeas, if using. Add salt and pepper, and cook for a few minutes longer.

Stir in the remaining oil and serve, hot or cold, with the lemon quarters.

Kousa Mabshoura Zucchini with Onions, Garlic, and Mint Serves 6-8 This is as good cold, when it is served as an appetizer with bread, as it is hot as a side dish. It is the kind of thing people make with the leftover insides of hollowed-out zucchini when they stuff them. This is as good cold, when it is served as an appetizer with bread, as it is hot as a side dish. It is the kind of thing people make with the leftover insides of hollowed-out zucchini when they stuff them.

2 pounds zucchini, cut into large pieces 3 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or use 2 bouillon cubes) 2 onions, chopped 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves Salt and pepper 1 lemon, cut into wedges (optional) Boil the zucchini in the stock for about 15 minutes, or until soft. Drain, mash, and chop them in a colander to get rid of the excess liquid (drink the stock-it has a lovely vegetable flavor).

In a large frying pan, fry the onions in 2 tablespoons of the oil until golden. Add the garlic, and stir until it just begins to color. Add the zucchini, mint, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring and mixing well, for about 5 minutes.

Stir in the remaining oil and serve hot or cold with lemon wedges.