Part 12 (1/2)

1 small octopus, weighing about 2 pounds 1 cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar Salt and pepper 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Octopus is usually sold cleaned and tenderized. But here is how you clean it if you have to do it yourself: Cut partway through the muscle which unites the tentacles to the inside of the head and discard all the contents of the head cavity. This involves pulling or cutting out the ink sac, the hard oval ”beak,” and the gelatinous innards. Turn the head inside out and wash well under running water. Squeeze or cut out the eyes and any cartilage. Remove anyscales which may be left on the suckers and wash the octopus thoroughly.

Blanch the octopus for 5 minutes in boiling water, then drain. Put it in a saucepan with the wine, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper, and just enough water to cover. Simmer over very low heat for about 1-1 hours, until tender, adding water to keep it covered. Lift out the octopus and reduce the sauce.

Cut the octopus into 1-inch slices, and mix with the sauce and the olive oil.

Serve cold, sprinkled with parsley.

Usk.u.mru Dolmasu Stuffed Mackerel Serves 6 * A Turkish delicacy. A humble fish for a regal occasion. The skin of the fish is stuffed with its own flesh mixed with a rich filling. It is rolled in beaten egg, then in flour and breadcrumbs, and deep-fried in olive or nut oil. It is quite a bit of work but is delicious eaten hot or cold, as an entree or as a main dish. * A Turkish delicacy. A humble fish for a regal occasion. The skin of the fish is stuffed with its own flesh mixed with a rich filling. It is rolled in beaten egg, then in flour and breadcrumbs, and deep-fried in olive or nut oil. It is quite a bit of work but is delicious eaten hot or cold, as an entree or as a main dish.

6 small mackerel 2 eggs, lightly beaten Fine dry breadcrumbs Oil FOR THE THE STUFFING STUFFING.

1 large onion, finely chopped Olive oil 4 ounces sh.e.l.led walnuts, ground or pounded 2 ounces sh.e.l.led hazelnuts, ground or pounded 2 ounces raisins 2 teaspoons mixed spices (a mixture of allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and pepper) Salt cup each of chopped parsley and fresh dill or chervil Clean the fish and cut off their heads, but do not cut the bodies. Snap the backbones off near the tail. Rub the skins to loosen them and to soften the flesh. Then, using your hands, rub and squeeze the fish, starting from the tail, forcing the flesh and bones out of the loosened skin as though emptying a tube of paste. This is quite easily done, as the skin is very strong. Any tears in the skin can be mended by sewing them up with a needle and thread. Anothergood method for emptying the fish skins is to loosen them as above, then, holding the backbone firmly where it shows at the head, to pull the skin down, turning it inside out. Proceed as above. Remove the bones carefully and break up the flesh for the stuffing.

Prepare the stuffing. Fry the onions until soft and golden in 2 tablespoons oil. Add the nuts, raisins, spices, and salt to taste, and mix well. Add the fish and fry for 3 minutes longer. Stir in the chopped parsley and dill or chervil, and remove from the heat.

Fill the fish skins tightly with this mixture, closing the openings by sewing them up carefully. Dip in beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs. Fry in hot oil until golden brown and cooked through.

Serve hot or cold.

Poultry TOUYOUR.

In the villages of most Middle Eastern countries, where it requires an eid el kibir eid el kibir, or a very important feast, to kill a lamb, poultry is the usual festive dish. Geese, ducks, hens, or fat chickens are the traditional festival queens. Often the birds are boiled first to provide the legendary wedding or other festive soups and, in Egypt, the melokheya melokheya (page 146). Sometimes the birds are filled with rich stuffings. They are cooked in an extraordinary variety of ways, and beautifully flavored and decorated following ancient traditions. Egyptians like to point to the tomb paintings which show that their ancestors in pharaonic times cooked geese and ducks and pigeons. (page 146). Sometimes the birds are filled with rich stuffings. They are cooked in an extraordinary variety of ways, and beautifully flavored and decorated following ancient traditions. Egyptians like to point to the tomb paintings which show that their ancestors in pharaonic times cooked geese and ducks and pigeons.

Maxime Rodinson, in his description of the ma.n.u.script of the Kitab al Wusla il al Habib Kitab al Wusla il al Habib, found in Syria, which is believed to have been written in the thirteenth century, notes over five hundred recipes for chicken, of which he has unfortunately fully translated and explained only a few. Among them are: Minced chicken and lamb rissoles Chicken with vinegar * Chicken boiled with crushed chickpeas Chicken with lemon or pomegranate sauce Chicken with rhubarb or quinces Chicken with hard-boiled egg yolks and herbs Chicken with pistachio nuts; with hazelnuts, walnuts, almonds, or poppy seeds; with parsley, oranges, or rose jam; with plum jelly, yogurt, or mulberries Chicken with chickpeas, onions, and cinnamon, or spiced rice Chicken with pistachios, perfumed with rose water and musk A loaf of bread stuffed with chicken The luscious ingredients in the recipes are echoed in the dishes of today-in the fruit stews of Morocco, the walnut and hazelnut sauces of Turkey and Syria, and the chickpeas, onions, and lemons of Egypt.

Hamam Meshwi Broiled Mediterranean Pigeons, Squabs, or Poussins Serves 2-4 * One of the happiest memories of my childhood in Cairo is the outings in the company of several uncles, aunts, and cousins to an old restaurant called Le Cafe des Pigeons on the way to the Pyramids, where we feasted on charcoal-broiled baby pigeons. Huge platters, piled high with halved pigeons sprinkled with lemon juice and parsley, were brought to us in the ancient gardens of the restaurant, overgrown with jasmine and bougainvillea. The birds were so young and tender we could eat them bones and all. * One of the happiest memories of my childhood in Cairo is the outings in the company of several uncles, aunts, and cousins to an old restaurant called Le Cafe des Pigeons on the way to the Pyramids, where we feasted on charcoal-broiled baby pigeons. Huge platters, piled high with halved pigeons sprinkled with lemon juice and parsley, were brought to us in the ancient gardens of the restaurant, overgrown with jasmine and bougainvillea. The birds were so young and tender we could eat them bones and all.

Mediterranean pigeons are like squabs. You can also use poussins (small spring chickens) in the same way. They are best grilled over dying embers, where they acquire a most seductive flavor and aroma, but you can also cook them indoors, over the heat of a pumice-stone rock grill or under the broiler. Serve them with salad and pita bread.

2 Mediterranean pigeons, squabs, or poussins cup chopped flat-leaf parsley FOR THE THE MARINADE MARINADE.

Juice of 1-1 lemons 1 onion, liquefied in a blender or food processor 2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed (optional) 3 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper Cut the pigeons, squabs, or poussins in half down the breastbone and through the back with kitchen shears or a bread knife. Cut the wing and leg joints just enough to pull them a little apart, so that the halves lie flat and cook more evenly. Or cut the birds into quarters. Refrigerate for about an hour, turning the pieces over at least once.

Place the marinated pieces on an oiled grill over glowing embers which are no longer smoking. Cook, basting with the marinade, and turning over once, for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until the pieces are brown all over but still tender and juicy inside. Test one piece by cutting it with a knife. The juices should not be pink.

Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Variations Turks like to flavor this with a little cinnamon instead of the garlic and lemon.

Brus.h.i.+ng with melted b.u.t.ter instead of the marinade produces a very succulent result.

A delicious variation is to marinate the chicken pieces for as long as possible in yogurt flavored with crushed garlic, salt, and pepper. Sometimes dried crushed mint is added, and a little paprika is mixed with the yogurt to give the chicken an appetizing red color. The yogurt does not contribute very much to the flavor, but serves to tenderize the flesh of the chicken.

Pigeons or Squabs with Dates Serves 4 * The combination of chicken or meat with dates is very ancient in the Arab world. This recipe is inspired by a Moroccan one. I made it with baby partridge, which was delicious. You could also use small guinea hens or poussins. Use soft dried dates. * The combination of chicken or meat with dates is very ancient in the Arab world. This recipe is inspired by a Moroccan one. I made it with baby partridge, which was delicious. You could also use small guinea hens or poussins. Use soft dried dates.

2 inches fresh gingerroot, grated, or crushed in a garlic press to extract the juice 2 cloves garlic, crushed 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons honey 4 young Mediterranean pigeons, squabs, or small poussins 10 ounces dates, pitted (Tunisian or Californian dates) 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon cup toasted sesame seeds (optional) Mix the ginger and garlic with the olive oil and half the lemon juice. Add salt and pepper and 1 tablespoon honey and beat well. Turn the birds in this marinade, and leave them in for hour. Arrange on a baking dish, breast side down, and roast in a preheated 425F oven for about 15 minutes. Turn them over and roast for another 10 minutes, or until they are done to your taste.

Put the dates in a pan and only just cover with water. Add cinnamon and the remaining honey and lemon and cook for 10 minutes, until the dates are soft and have absorbed the flavors. Serve the dates in the center and the pigeons around, and sprinkle all over with sesame seeds, if you like.

Saman bi Einab Quails with Grapes Serves 4 * A wonderful dish. Even those who think it is not worth cooking quail because the birds are too small think this is delightful. In Morocco, ground ginger is used, but with fresh ginger it is particularly delicious. I peel and cut the root into pieces and squeeze them through a garlic press to obtain the juice. But if you are used to grating ginger, do that. * A wonderful dish. Even those who think it is not worth cooking quail because the birds are too small think this is delightful. In Morocco, ground ginger is used, but with fresh ginger it is particularly delicious. I peel and cut the root into pieces and squeeze them through a garlic press to obtain the juice. But if you are used to grating ginger, do that.

8 quails 3 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil 5-6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Salt and pepper 3 inches fresh gingerroot, or to taste, grated, or crushed in a garlic press to extract the juice 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 pound large seedless white grapes, washed and drained Quails are often sold with some remaining feathers, which need to be pulled or burnt off.

In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil with the b.u.t.ter. Put in the quails and saute briskly over medium heat for about 8 minutes, turning to brown them lightly all over, and adding salt, pepper, and ginger. Add the garlic, and cook moments more, until the aroma rises, then take off the heat.

Put the grapes with the remaining oil in a saucepan. Sprinkle with a little salt, and cook, with the lid on, over low heat for about 20 minutes, or until the grapes are soft, stirring occasionally. Add them to the quails in the frying pan and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the quails are done to your liking.

Serve hot.

Bata wal Safargal Roast Duck with Quince Serves 4 * On a visit to Egypt, a hostess who invited me for dinner told us how she had run after the ducks that had escaped as she carried them home. There are many dishes of duck and chicken with quince in the Arab world. This one has the flavors of Morocco. The quince slices acquire a wonderful caramelized taste when they are fried. * On a visit to Egypt, a hostess who invited me for dinner told us how she had run after the ducks that had escaped as she carried them home. There are many dishes of duck and chicken with quince in the Arab world. This one has the flavors of Morocco. The quince slices acquire a wonderful caramelized taste when they are fried.

1 duck, weighing about 5 pounds 1 tablespoon vegetable oil plus more for frying quince Salt and pepper 2 medium-sized quinces (or 1 very large one), weighing about 1 pound 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon cinnamon Juice of 2-2 lemons or more 3 tablespoons honey Rub the duck with 1 tablespoon of the oil and season with salt and pepper. p.r.i.c.k the skin with a fork in several places, so that the melted fat can ooze out. Put it, breast side down, on a rack in a roasting pan in a preheated 400F oven for about 2 hours, turning it over after an hour, until the skin is crisp and brown and the flesh still soft and juicy. Pour out the fat as it is released (at least twice).

Cook the quinces at the same time as the duck. Wash and scrub them and wrap each one in a piece of foil. Put them in an oven dish or on a baking sheet, and place them under the duck, where the oven is a little less hot. A large quince can take up to 1 hours to bake, medium ones about 1 hour (the time depends on their size and ripeness). Take them out when they feel a little soft when you press.

When cool enough to handle, cut them into quarters and cut away the hard cores, then cut each quarter into 2 slices-or 3 slices if the quince is large. (Do not peel them.) Keep aside.

When the duck is almost ready, fry the quince slices in shallow oil until brown (this gives them the delicious caramelized taste), then lift them out and drain on paper towels.

Prepare a sauce. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the roasting pan, add a few tablespoons of water, and set the pan over high heat. Sc.r.a.pe up the browned bits, and stir in the ginger and cinnamon, the lemon juice and honey. Let it bubble up.

Serve the duck with the sauce poured over, accompanied by the fried quince. It's great.

Siman Meshwi Broiled Quail Serves 6 * Every year, migrating quails fly over the Mediterranean to Alexandria. Hundreds of the small birds fall, exhausted, on the dunes of the beaches of Agami, to be caught in large nets and collected in baskets. They are plucked and cleaned and marinated in a rich sauce, then grilled on the beaches over numerous little fires. Now quail farms are an important part of the local economy. Broiled quail are also a specialty of Lebanese restaurants, where they are served as mezze. The flavorings here are those of Alexandria. * Every year, migrating quails fly over the Mediterranean to Alexandria. Hundreds of the small birds fall, exhausted, on the dunes of the beaches of Agami, to be caught in large nets and collected in baskets. They are plucked and cleaned and marinated in a rich sauce, then grilled on the beaches over numerous little fires. Now quail farms are an important part of the local economy. Broiled quail are also a specialty of Lebanese restaurants, where they are served as mezze. The flavorings here are those of Alexandria.

6 quails 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon ground cardamom 1 onion, blended to a cream in a food processor Pinch of cayenne pepper or ground chili pepper 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley to garnish 2 lemons, cut into wedges, to serve with Wash the quails. You may need to singe some stray feathers. Using kitchen shears or a serrated knife, cut the birds open along the breastbone, then pull them out and flatten them as much as you can so that they cook evenly.

Mix the remaining ingredients except the parsley and lemon, and turn the birds in this marinade. Leave for 1 hour before cooking over glowing embers or under a hot broiler for 5-6 minutes, until browned all over but still juicy inside. Turn over once, leaving them longer with the bone side towards the fire, and be careful not to overcook.

Serve sprinkled with parsley, accompanied with lemon wedges.

Variation For a Lebanese flavor, marinate in a mixture of olive oil with the juice of 1 lemon, 2 crushed garlic cloves, and salt and pepper.

Hamam Mahs.h.i.+ bil Burghul Pigeon, Squab, or Poussin Stuffed with Bulgur, Raisins, and Pine Nuts Serves 6 * In Cairo a few years ago, I was invited to dinner by a woman who was living alone in the family villa after her parents had died. While she spent a month in hospital with her sick mother, squatters had built dwellings in the large garden. By now it was a few years since they had settled in, and she couldn't get them out because of delays in the legal process. But I think she was lonely and had got used to them and was not trying too hard. The squatters had built a clay oven, and a dovecote where they kept pigeons; and chickens were running around. They grew all kinds of vegetables and herbs and gave her some of the produce. She watched their daily antics, noting that, while they quarreled all the time, the pigeons were loving and faithful towards each other. While her cook was preparing stuffed pigeons and minty broad beans with artichoke hearts for us, we watched the squatters cook their pigeons on the grill together with slices of eggplant and onion. Her recipe is one of my favorites. You will need the coa.r.s.e bulgur, available from Greek and Middle Eastern stores. For a large and varied meal, you can serve half a bird per person. There is a large amount of stuffing because people like to have more on the side. * In Cairo a few years ago, I was invited to dinner by a woman who was living alone in the family villa after her parents had died. While she spent a month in hospital with her sick mother, squatters had built dwellings in the large garden. By now it was a few years since they had settled in, and she couldn't get them out because of delays in the legal process. But I think she was lonely and had got used to them and was not trying too hard. The squatters had built a clay oven, and a dovecote where they kept pigeons; and chickens were running around. They grew all kinds of vegetables and herbs and gave her some of the produce. She watched their daily antics, noting that, while they quarreled all the time, the pigeons were loving and faithful towards each other. While her cook was preparing stuffed pigeons and minty broad beans with artichoke hearts for us, we watched the squatters cook their pigeons on the grill together with slices of eggplant and onion. Her recipe is one of my favorites. You will need the coa.r.s.e bulgur, available from Greek and Middle Eastern stores. For a large and varied meal, you can serve half a bird per person. There is a large amount of stuffing because people like to have more on the side.

Stuffed pigeon is one of the delicacies of Egypt, which you serve, as they say, ”if you really want to show somebody you love them.” The stuffing is most commonly rice or ferik ferik (young green wheat), but bulgur is an easier and delicious alternative. (young green wheat), but bulgur is an easier and delicious alternative.

1 large onion Juice of 1 lemon 6 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil Salt and pepper 1 teaspoons ground cardamom 1 teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon allspice 6 baby Mediterranean pigeons, squabs, or small poussins FOR THE STUFFING.

4 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use 2 chicken bouillon cubes) 1 pound coa.r.s.e-ground bulgur (cracked wheat) Salt and pepper 1 teaspoons cinnamon cup pine nuts 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil cup black or golden raisins, soaked in water for 15 minutes For the marinade, put the onion, cut in pieces, the lemon juice, oil, salt and pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, and allspice in a blender or food processor and liquidize. Marinate the birds in this mixture for hour.

For the stuffing, bring the stock to the boil in a pan, then add the bulgur, salt, pepper, and cinnamon. Stir and cook, covered, over very low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and the grain is tender.