Part 11 (1/2)
Saute the onion in the oil with the peppers, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden and the peppers are very soft and lightly colored. Add garlic, and when the aroma rises, add the tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook until the tomatoes have softened.
Brush the fish generously with olive oil and cook under a preheated broiler for 4 minutes on each side.
Serve the fish on a bed of the sauteed vegetables. Dribble on a little raw olive oil, and sprinkle with lemon juice.
Balik Pilaki Cold Fish in Oil with Vegetables Serves 6-8 * This Turkish specialty, popular throughout most of the Middle East, makes a good first course or cold buffet dish. Sliced swordfish is generally used, but most fish available in America are also suitable. * This Turkish specialty, popular throughout most of the Middle East, makes a good first course or cold buffet dish. Sliced swordfish is generally used, but most fish available in America are also suitable.
2 pounds fish: whole red mullet or mackerel, or a piece of a larger fish, sliced Olive oil 2 large onions, sliced 2 green peppers, seeded and sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound tomatoes, skinned and sliced cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 tablespoon tomato paste Salt and pepper About a dozen green or black olives, pitted or not (optional) Pan-fry the fish in a few tablespoons olive oil until lightly colored but not quite cooked inside, then lift out and reserve.
Clean the pan. Fry the onions in 3 tablespoons oil until soft and golden. Add the sliced green peppers and fry until soft and sweet. Add the chopped garlic and fry for a moment more. Finally, add the tomatoes, chopped parsley, and tomato paste diluted in about cup water. Season to taste with salt and pepper, stir well, bring to the boil, and simmer for 15 minutes.
Lay the fish in the sauce carefully, so that the pieces are well covered, and cook for a further 5-10 minutes or until done, adding a little water if necessary. A few olives, blanched in boiling water to remove excess salt, can be added towards the end. Arrange the fish in a serving dish with sauce over it. Serve cold.
Yakhnit Samak bel Zafaran Fish Stew with Onions and Saffron Serves 4-6 * An old Arab dish, popular in Syria, Lebanon, and Egypt. It is very lemony, and sometimes saffron is replaced by turmeric. All kinds offish can be used. Serve with plain rice, or rice with vermicelli (see page 340). * An old Arab dish, popular in Syria, Lebanon, and Egypt. It is very lemony, and sometimes saffron is replaced by turmeric. All kinds offish can be used. Serve with plain rice, or rice with vermicelli (see page 340).
2 onions, cut in half and sliced 4 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil 2-4 cloves garlic, crushed Juice of 2-3 lemons teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron Salt and white pepper 2 pounds skinned fish fillets or steaks Fry the onions in 2 tablespoons of the oil till golden. Add the garlic, and just as it begins to color, add the lemon juice, the saffron, a little salt, and about 1 cup water. Simmer for 10-15 minutes.
Fry the fish pieces very briefly in a skillet filmed with oil over high heat, turning them over once, until lightly colored but still uncooked inside. Lift them out, drain on paper towels, and put them in the pan with the onion sauce.
Simmer, covered, over very low heat, so that the liquid barely trembles, until the fish is done-about 3 to 5 minutes for fillets, up to 10 minutes for steaks.
Variation For samak bi loomi samak bi loomi, a version from the Gulf States, use 3 tablespoons ground dried limes (see page 44) instead of lemon, turmeric instead of saffron, plus 1 teaspoon crushed cardamom seeds.
Tagen Samak bel Cozbara Fish Stew with Tomatoes and Coriander Seed Serves 4 * A favorite Egyptian flavoring is a mix of fried garlic and coriander. This dish is a specialty of Alexandria, where it is usually baked in a clay dish called a * A favorite Egyptian flavoring is a mix of fried garlic and coriander. This dish is a specialty of Alexandria, where it is usually baked in a clay dish called a tagen tagen (it is deeper than Moroccan tagines and with straight sides). You can make it with any white fish-steaks or fillets. Serve it with plain rice (page 338) or rice with vermicelli (page 340). (it is deeper than Moroccan tagines and with straight sides). You can make it with any white fish-steaks or fillets. Serve it with plain rice (page 338) or rice with vermicelli (page 340).
1 pounds fish-fillets or steaks 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and pepper 6 or 7 cloves garlic, crushed 1-2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1-2 teaspoons sugar In a large skillet, fry the fish briefly in the oil until lightly browned, but still uncooked inside, turning it over once and sprinkling with salt and pepper. Then lift it out.
Fry the garlic and the coriander together in the same oil over low heat for moments only, stirring, until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes, stir in the sugar and a little salt and pepper, and cook for 15 minutes. Return the fish to the pan and cook for 2-5 minutes, or until it is done to your liking.
Variation For cozbareyet al samak cozbareyet al samak, cut the fish into chunks and fry briefly in oil. Lift out when it is done. In a small pan, heat 3 tablespoons olive oil with 5 or 6 crushed garlic cloves and 1-1 teaspoons ground coriander until the garlic begins to color. Pour over the fish.
Fish with Quinces Serves 6-8 * Tunisia is famous for her fish dishes and her fish couscous. Here is one of the prestigious dishes which can be served with couscous. Prepare couscous as in the recipe on page 375 so that it is ready at the same time. * Tunisia is famous for her fish dishes and her fish couscous. Here is one of the prestigious dishes which can be served with couscous. Prepare couscous as in the recipe on page 375 so that it is ready at the same time.
4 or 5 cloves garlic, chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt 2 teaspoons sugar 1 or 2 chilies, cut open and seeded I inches fresh gingerroot teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron cup raisins 2 or 3 quinces, peeled and sliced (2 if very large) 2 pounds fillets of bream or other fish, such as cod or haddock Fry the garlic in the oil until it only just begins to color. Add the tomatoes, salt, and sugar, and put in the chilies. Peel and grate the ginger, or cut it into small pieces and crush it in a garlic press to extract the juice over the pan. Add the saffron and the raisins and simmer over low heat. Put in the quinces as you peel them so that they do not turn brown. They are a very hard fruit, and you need a large strong knife to cut them.
Cook, covered, for 15 to 30 minutes, or until the quinces are tender. The time varies depending on the size, quality, and ripeness of the fruit. Remove one or both of the chilies when you think the sauce is hot enough. Five to 10 minutes before serving, add the fish, and simmer until the flesh begins to flake. Serve the fish stew and the couscous in separate dishes.
Stewed Eel with Onions, Honey, and Raisins Serves 6 * A specialty of the port of Sale, this is one of the rare fish couscous dishes of Morocco. The eel is usually cooked in a saffron broth, but I prefer to saute the eel and serve it with a small portion of couscous (see page 375). The honeyed onions beautifully complement the delicate flavor of this fish. Have the eel skinned (the skin is tough and inedible) and cut into pieces or filleted by the fishmonger. * A specialty of the port of Sale, this is one of the rare fish couscous dishes of Morocco. The eel is usually cooked in a saffron broth, but I prefer to saute the eel and serve it with a small portion of couscous (see page 375). The honeyed onions beautifully complement the delicate flavor of this fish. Have the eel skinned (the skin is tough and inedible) and cut into pieces or filleted by the fishmonger.
2 pounds eels 2 pounds onions, cut in half and sliced thinly 5 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron 1-2 tablespoons honey Juice of -1 lemon cup raisins Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Sprinkle the eels with a little salt.
Put the onions with 4 tablespoons oil in a large pan. Cook with the lid on over very low heat, stirring occasionally, until soft (they will stew in their own juice). It will take a long time because of the quant.i.ty. Take the lid off and cook, stirring often, until lightly golden. Add the cinnamon, saffron, honey, lemon juice, raisins, and a little salt and pepper. Stir well, and cook gently for 5 minutes.
In a large skillet, saute the eel in b.u.t.ter and the remaining tablespoon of oil, sprinkling with salt and pepper, until just cooked through. Serve on a bed of onions with couscous.
L'Hout Hraimy Peppery Hot and Garlicky Fish Serves 6 * A North African-particularly Libyan-specialty. Algerians call the piquant sauce * A North African-particularly Libyan-specialty. Algerians call the piquant sauce chet.i.tha chet.i.tha. The dish is not for everybody, and it is not for a delicate fish.
1 whole head of garlic 2 teaspoons tomato paste cup vegetable oil 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon c.u.min (optional) 1 teaspoon harissa (page 464) or - teaspoon ground chili pepper Salt Juice of 1 lemon 2 pounds fish fillets or steaks Peel the garlic and puree in a blender. Put it in a large skillet with the tomato paste and stir in the oil and the rest of the ingredients except the fish. Add 1 cup water, bring to the boil, and simmer 5 minutes. Put in the fish and cook over low heat for 3-10 minutes, turning over once, until the fish is cooked, adding a little water if it is too dry.
Serve hot.
Psari Plaki Baked Fish Serves 6 * In Egypt we called it * In Egypt we called it poisson a la grecque poisson a la grecque. All kinds of fish can be cooked in this way-small ones whole, and large ones cut into steaks. Serve hot or cold with good bread and a salad.
6 fish steaks, about 1 inch thick Salt and pepper Juice of -1 lemon 2 onions, sliced cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and quartered 1 cup dry white wine cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Arrange the fish in a baking dish. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with lemon juice.
Fry the onions in 2 tablespoons of the oil until golden. Add the garlic, and as soon as it begins to color, add the tomatoes and the wine. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the parsley, and pour over the fish.
Sprinkle on the remaining oil and bake in a preheated 325F oven for 20 minutes, or until the fish is opaque right through and flakes when you pierce it with a knife.
Variations Bake a large whole fish such as ba.s.s, red snapper, gray mullet, bluefish, or pompano in the same way. Bake at 425F for about 30 minutes, basting with the sauce occasionally.
Add sliced or cubed potatoes to the tomato sauce.
Taj en Samak bi Tahina Fish Baked in Tahina Sauce Serves 6 * This is very popular in Syria and Lebanon and can be served cold with salads such as tabbouleh (page 76) or hot with rice. * This is very popular in Syria and Lebanon and can be served cold with salads such as tabbouleh (page 76) or hot with rice.
2 pounds fish fillets, skinned and cut into 6 pieces Salt 2 large onions, cut in half and thinly sliced 2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup tahina - cup lemon juice, or to taste 1 cup water, or more as required cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 or 3 lemons, cut in wedges, to serve with Season the fish with salt.
In a large pan, sweat the onions in 2-3 tablespoons oil with the lid on over very low heat, stirring occasionally, until soft and just beginning to color.
Beat into the tahina the lemon juice and enough water to obtain a light creamy consistency (it will stiffen at first, before becoming smooth and runny). Add salt to taste.
Spread the onions on the bottom of a baking dish, lay the fish on top, and pour the sauce all over the fish. Bake in a preheated 400F oven for 20-30 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily. Serve sprinkled with parsley.
Variation Some fry the fish very briefly first, in shallow oil over high heat, so that it is lightly browned but not yet cooked inside, then bake it with the onions and the sauce for a further 10 minutes.
Shad Stuffed with Dates Serves 6 * This freshwater fish, found in the Sebou River, is popular in Morocco. It is fat but rather full of bones, and its delicate flesh is said to be at its best soon after sp.a.w.ning up-river. In America it is sold already boned, which makes stuffing easy. Dates are stuffed with rice and blanched almonds, and they, in turn, provide the stuffing for the fish. * This freshwater fish, found in the Sebou River, is popular in Morocco. It is fat but rather full of bones, and its delicate flesh is said to be at its best soon after sp.a.w.ning up-river. In America it is sold already boned, which makes stuffing easy. Dates are stuffed with rice and blanched almonds, and they, in turn, provide the stuffing for the fish.
cup finely chopped blanched almonds 2-3 tablespoons cooked rice 1 teaspoon sugar teaspoon ground cinnamon plus teaspoon to garnish (optional) Pepper teaspoon ground ginger 1-2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 8 ounces fresh dates (dried ones will do, but choose soft, juicy ones) A 3-pound boned shad Oil Salt onion, finely chopped Mix together the chopped almonds, rice, sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch each of pepper and ginger, and knead with a little b.u.t.ter to hold everything together.
Pit the dates and stuff them with the almond-rice mixture.
Rub the fish all over with oil, salt, pepper, and a little ground ginger. Open up the 2 top fillets and arrange the stuffed dates down the center, then replace the top fillets. Place the fish on a large, well-oiled sheet of foil and sprinkle with the finely chopped onion. Wrap the fish up neatly and seal the edges of the foil firmly. (The foil allows you to omit sewing up the fish.) Lay the parcel on a large baking pan.
Bake in a preheated 350F oven, about 15 minutes per pound, or until the flesh begins to flake when you cut into the thickest part with a pointed knife. Then unwrap the foil and place the fish under the broiler to become crisply golden. Serve dusted with cinnamon if you like.
Sayyadiah Fish with Rice Serves 8-10 * This is a very popular Arab dish. There are white and brown versions, which depend on whether you let the onions go brown or not. Use skinned fillets offish such as bream, turbot, haddock, cod, or halibut. * This is a very popular Arab dish. There are white and brown versions, which depend on whether you let the onions go brown or not. Use skinned fillets offish such as bream, turbot, haddock, cod, or halibut.