Part 10 (1/2)
French-Style Omelets with an Oriental Flavor Serves 2 * Make a plain French omelet with 4 eggs: Beat the eggs lightly, and season very lightly with salt and pepper. Heat a skillet (about 10 inches). Add a tablespoon of b.u.t.ter and shake the pan to allow it to run all over the base. When it starts to sizzle, but before it has had a chance to brown, pour in the eggs, stir a little, and when they start to set on the bottom, lift the edge up with a fork and tip the pan to allow the liquid from the top to run underneath. As soon as the eggs are no longer liquid but still very moist on top, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the prepared filling on one half of the omelet and fold the other half over the filling. Serve at once. * Make a plain French omelet with 4 eggs: Beat the eggs lightly, and season very lightly with salt and pepper. Heat a skillet (about 10 inches). Add a tablespoon of b.u.t.ter and shake the pan to allow it to run all over the base. When it starts to sizzle, but before it has had a chance to brown, pour in the eggs, stir a little, and when they start to set on the bottom, lift the edge up with a fork and tip the pan to allow the liquid from the top to run underneath. As soon as the eggs are no longer liquid but still very moist on top, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the prepared filling on one half of the omelet and fold the other half over the filling. Serve at once.
Fillings for a 4-Egg Omelet Chicken Livers. Cut 3 chicken livers into small pieces, and saute gently in a little b.u.t.ter for 2 or 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a pinch of ground cinnamon.
Onions and Tomatoes. Saute chopped onion in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil until softened. Add 1 or 2 crushed garlic cloves. When the garlic just begins to color, add 3 skinned and chopped tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, or a pinch of ground chili pepper or chili flakes, and cook gently until the tomatoes are almost reduced to a pulp.
Spinach. Frozen spinach (defrosted), either leaf or chopped, will do. Fry 1 crushed garlic clove with -1 teaspoon ground coriander in 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil. Add about 2 ounces spinach and cook for a few minutes with the lid on until softened. Season with salt and pepper.
Fish and Seafood SAMAK.
”A remedy for a man who is 'tied' by his enemies, and made impotent. He must go to a quack, who will say: 'There is something written against you that has been eaten by a fish in the sea. I can release you from your trouble by obtaining the fish for a fee!' The quack finds a fish, writes a curse, perhaps on a piece of bread, puts it in the mouth of the fish, and delivers it to the patient. The latter will be cured.”
FROM AN ANCIENT BOOK OF EGYPTIAN FOLK MEDICINE.
One of my great-uncles was a kabbalist to whom people came with all kinds of problems, such as impotence and sickness. He cured them with amulets and tiny scrolls of paper which he hung round their necks. Sometimes he got a fish to swallow his magic words and threw it back into the water. In some parts of the Middle East, fish is still believed to have magical properties. Tunisians in particular-who are the greatest fish-eaters-believe it to be highly beneficial. The day after their wedding,couples are encouraged to step over a large fish as an a.s.surance of happiness and a protection from evil. Today, the shape of a fish has become a symbol. Embroidered on material and carved in metal, it is believed to ward off the evil eye. In Egypt, one felt compelled to eat fish for the first meal in a new home. In Persia, fish is eaten on New Year's Eve to cleanse the people from evil, while Jews display the head alone in the center of the New Year table in the hope that Jews will always be at the ”head.”
The medieval cookery manual of al-Baghdadi gives a few recipes for fish, both fresh- and salt.w.a.ter, but without specifying any varieties. Even today, recipes for fish can usually be applied to any of a number of varieties. When I ask what fish to use for a certain recipe, the answer is usually ”Any fish you like” or ”Any fish will do.” Nevertheless, certain fish are more suitable for a particular dish and method of preparation, because of their size and firmness of flesh or oiliness and flavor.
Most of these dishes were, of course, originally evolved for fish from the Mediterranean and neighboring seas. Favorite fish are sea ba.s.s, called loukoz loukoz, which is the most prestigious and expensive; red mullet, called barbunya barbunya by the Turks and Sultan Ibrahim by the Arabs; sea bream or daurade, called by the Turks and Sultan Ibrahim by the Arabs; sea bream or daurade, called morgan morgan or or arous arous, of which there are twenty-two species, big and small; sole, called samak Moussa samak Moussa after Moses (because of its thinness, it is said to have been cut in half when Moses separated the Red Sea). Other popular fish are gurnard or sea robin, John Dory, hake and tuna, monkfish, swordfish, sardines, anchovies, ray, skate, eels, whiting, mackerel and gray mullet, turbot, flounder and grouper, snapper, blue-fish, and pompano. You can find most in America today, but you can anyway subst.i.tute fish from other seas. Freshwater fish like sturgeon, trout, salmon, eels, lampreys, and shad are also highly regarded. after Moses (because of its thinness, it is said to have been cut in half when Moses separated the Red Sea). Other popular fish are gurnard or sea robin, John Dory, hake and tuna, monkfish, swordfish, sardines, anchovies, ray, skate, eels, whiting, mackerel and gray mullet, turbot, flounder and grouper, snapper, blue-fish, and pompano. You can find most in America today, but you can anyway subst.i.tute fish from other seas. Freshwater fish like sturgeon, trout, salmon, eels, lampreys, and shad are also highly regarded.
The most common ways of cooking fish in the Middle East are to broil or roast it or to dip it in flour and deep-fry, and the usual dressing is lemon juice and a dribble of olive oil. But there are also many stunning special dishes. The only problem is that fish is usually overcooked. The cooking times I give are more in line with our tastes today.
Marinades, Dressings, and Sauces for Broiled or Grilled and Fried Fish Oil and Lemon Dressing Serves 4 * This is the common all-purpose dressing for fish. It can also be used as a marinade. * This is the common all-purpose dressing for fish. It can also be used as a marinade.
Juice of 1 lemon 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley to garnish Mix the lemon juice, oil, salt, and pepper. Soak the fish in the marinade. Or pour over the fish when serving and garnish with parsley.
Tomato and Chili Dressing Serves 4 * This is particularly delicious with grilled fish. * This is particularly delicious with grilled fish.
cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons lemon juice 4 tomatoes, skinned and diced red chili pepper, minced, or a pinch of ground chili pepper Simply heat the oil with the lemon juice and tomatoes, adding the chili. Do not cook them.
Chermoula Sauce and Marinade Serves 4 * This hot, spicy, garlicky mixture is the all-purpose, ubiquitous Moroccan sauce for fish. It goes on every kind of fish-fried, grilled, baked, and stewed. It is marvelous, and I strongly recommend it, but not for a fish with a delicate flavor. * This hot, spicy, garlicky mixture is the all-purpose, ubiquitous Moroccan sauce for fish. It goes on every kind of fish-fried, grilled, baked, and stewed. It is marvelous, and I strongly recommend it, but not for a fish with a delicate flavor.
Use half of it to marinate the fish in for 1 1 hour before cooking, and pour the rest on as a sauce before serving. hour before cooking, and pour the rest on as a sauce before serving.
cup chopped cilantro 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon c.u.min 1 teaspoon paprika - teaspoon ground chili pepper (optional) 6 tablespoons peanut or extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon or 3 tablespoons wine vinegar Blend everything together in the food processor.
Tarator bi Tahina Tahina Sauce for Fish Makes about 3 cups * A ubiquitous sauce in Syria and Lebanon, served with fried and grilled fish as well as with cold fish. * A ubiquitous sauce in Syria and Lebanon, served with fried and grilled fish as well as with cold fish.
1 cup tahina - cup lemon juice, or more 1-1 cups water teaspoon c.u.min Salt 2-4 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional) Blend the tahina with the lemon juice and water in the food processor. The paste will stiffen at first and then become smooth. Add enough water to achieve a light cream. Add c.u.min, season to taste with salt, and beat in the garlic.
Pour over cold fish or serve in a separate bowl. Garnish with parsley, if you like.
Skordalia Greek Garlic Sauce Makes about 3 cups * You have to love garlic to appreciate this most ancient of sauces. You have to love garlic to appreciate this most ancient of sauces.
3 thick slices white country bread, crusts removed, soaked in water cup mashed potatoes cup ground almonds 6-8 cloves garlic, crushed cup white-wine vinegar 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil A little salt Squeeze the bread dry, put it in a food processor with the rest of the ingredients, and blend to a smooth, creamy paste.
Fish Kebab Serves 4 * Although Turkey is surrounded on three sides by sea, it is not very strong on fish dishes. Seafood has not been part of the old Anatolian cooking traditions. Even in the coastal resorts, where seafood restaurants have mushroomed with the tourist trade, locals are not interested. The exceptions are Izmir and Istanbul, both famous for their fish markets and fish restaurants. The usual fare, like everywhere in the Middle East, is grilled or deep-fried fish. Swordfish kebab is a Turkish specialty, but other countries use other firm-fleshed fish, such as monkfish and tuna. * Although Turkey is surrounded on three sides by sea, it is not very strong on fish dishes. Seafood has not been part of the old Anatolian cooking traditions. Even in the coastal resorts, where seafood restaurants have mushroomed with the tourist trade, locals are not interested. The exceptions are Izmir and Istanbul, both famous for their fish markets and fish restaurants. The usual fare, like everywhere in the Middle East, is grilled or deep-fried fish. Swordfish kebab is a Turkish specialty, but other countries use other firm-fleshed fish, such as monkfish and tuna.
1 pounds swordfish, tuna, or monkfish, cut into l-inch cubes Bay leaves (about 20) 1 medium onion 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil?
Juice of lemon Salt and pepper 1 lemon, cut in wedges, to serve Thread the fish cubes onto wooden or flat metal skewers, alternating with bay leaves. Liquidize the onion in the blender with the oil, lemon, salt, and pepper and marinate the fish on the skewers in this mixture for 20 minutes, leaving it, covered, in the refrigerator.
Cook over glowing embers or under the broiler for 4-6 minutes, turning the skewers a few times and brus.h.i.+ng with the marinade.
Serve with lemon wedges.
Variations Marinate the pieces of fish, then thread them onto skewers with alternating pieces of bay leaf and slices of onion, pepper, and tomato, cut to the same size as the fish.
Moroccans cut their fish into smaller cubes. For a Moroccan flavor, marinate in and dress with the chermoula chermoula sauce (page 180), omitting the cilantro. sauce (page 180), omitting the cilantro.
For an exciting sweet-and-sour flavor of Syria and Iran, marinate in a tamarind sauce. For this, boil 2 tablespoons tamarind paste with cup water, stirring until the tamarind dissolves. Then beat in 3 tablespoons olive oil.
Grilled Tuna with Tomato and Caper Dressing Serves 4 * Tuna is usually overcooked in the Middle East. But the best way of eating it is seared on the outside and raw on the inside, which makes it deliciously, meltingly tender. Otherwise it quickly dries out. It can be brushed with oil and cooked on the barbecue or under the broiler, but an easy and perfect way is to pan-grill it. The dressing is a glamorized version of the ubiquitous oil-and-lemon one. It is good with all kinds offish. * Tuna is usually overcooked in the Middle East. But the best way of eating it is seared on the outside and raw on the inside, which makes it deliciously, meltingly tender. Otherwise it quickly dries out. It can be brushed with oil and cooked on the barbecue or under the broiler, but an easy and perfect way is to pan-grill it. The dressing is a glamorized version of the ubiquitous oil-and-lemon one. It is good with all kinds offish.
8 tablespoons mild extra-virgin olive oil 4 tuna steaks Salt and pepper Juice of 1 lemon 2 tomatoes, diced 2 tablespoons capers, soaked to remove excess salt or vinegar (optional) Film a grill pan or heavy nonstick skillet with oil. Put in the tuna steaks and cook over high heat for 1-2 minutes on either side, depending on their thickness. You should see the flesh still dark inside as it pales on the outside.
For the dressing, mix the rest of the ingredients with the remaining olive oil. Heat through to not-quite-boiling point and pour over the fish as you serve.
Variation Add cup chopped cilantro, or 2 crushed garlic cloves and - teaspoon harissa (page 464), to the dressing.
Levrek Izgarasi Broiled Sea Ba.s.s with Raki Serves 4I discovered it in Istanbul. I don't believe it is traditional, but the raki-the anise-flavored spirit-is a pleasing touch. You can use other fish too. discovered it in Istanbul. I don't believe it is traditional, but the raki-the anise-flavored spirit-is a pleasing touch. You can use other fish too.
2 sea ba.s.s, each weighing about 1 pounds 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper cup raki 2 lemons, cut in wedges, to serve Slash the fish in 2 places in the thickest part on either side. Brush generously with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on an oiled grill over glowing embers, or on a piece of foil in a heatproof dish under a preheated broiler. Cook for 8 minutes on either side.
Pour the raki over the fish at the table and light with a match. When the flames have died down, fillet the fish and place on 4 warmed plates.
Serve with lemon wedges.
Broiled Red Mullet Wrapped in Grape Leaves Serves 6 * Red mullet is so highly rated it is called Sultan Ibrahim in the Arab world. In Turkey it is called * Red mullet is so highly rated it is called Sultan Ibrahim in the Arab world. In Turkey it is called barbunya barbunya. In this dish, which is simple to make and beautiful to offer, grape leaves keep the fish moist and impart a delicate flavor. You may use fresh or preserved leaves. If the grape leaves are fresh, scald them in boiling water for a moment or two, until they flop, then dip them quickly in cold water so as to preserve their color. If they are preserved in brine, soak them in hot water for hour to remove the salt, changing the water once, then rinse them.
6 small red mullet, each weighing about 8 ounces 12 grape leaves Extra-virgin olive oil Salt 1 lemons, cut in wedges Ask the fishmonger to clean and scale the fish and to keep the heads on and give you the livers (they are a delicacy you can saute and eat while you're cooking).
Place 2 grape leaves s.h.i.+ny side down on a plate so that together they are large enough to wrap up a fish. Brush with oil. Place a fish across the leaves, and sprinkle lightly with salt. Roll up into a parcel, folding down the top leaf so that the head sticks out. Repeat with the remaining fish and leaves.
Cook on a barbecue or under the broiler for about 4-5 minutes on each side.
Serve with lemon wedges.