Part 12 (2/2)

Cut a top plate for each side you are working on.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 231._]

THE PLATE.--As it will be necessary in our job to use two or more lengths of 2” 4” scantling for the plate, it will be necessary to join them together. Do this with a lap-and-b.u.t.t joint (Fig. 231).

Then set up the 4” 4” posts for the sides of the doors and windows, and for the part.i.tion walls.

The plate should be laid down on the sill, and marked with a pencil for every scantling to correspond with the sill markings. The plate is then put on and spiked to the 4” 4” posts.

INTERMEDIATE STUDDING.--It will then be an easy matter to put in the intermediate 2” 4” studding, placing them as nearly as possible 16 inches apart to accommodate the 48-inch plastering lath.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 232._]

WALL HEADERS.--When all the studding are in you will need headers above and rails below the windows and headers above all the doors, so that you will have timbers to nail the siding to, as well as for the lathing.

CEILING JOISTS.--We are now ready for the ceiling joists, which are, usually, 2” 6”, unless there is an upper floor. These are laid 16 inches apart from center to center, preferably parallel with the floor joist.

It should be borne in mind that the ceiling joist must always be put on with reference to the roof.

Thus, in Fig. 232, the ceiling joists (A) have their ends resting on the plate (B), so that the rafters are in line with the joists.

BRACES.--It would also be well, in putting up the studding, to use plenty of braces, although for a one-story building this is not so essential as in two-story structures, because the weather boarding serves as a system of bracing.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 233._]

THE RAFTERS.--These may be made to provide for the gutter or not, as may be desired. They should be of 2” 4” scantling.

THE GUTTER.--In Fig. 233 I show a most serviceable way to provide for the gutter. A V-shaped notch is cut out of the upper side of the rafter, in which is placed the floor and a side. This floor piece is raised at one end to provide an incline for the water.

A face-board is then applied and nailed to the ends of the rafters. This face-board is surmounted by a cap, which has an overhang, beneath which is a molding of any convenient pattern. The face-board projects down at least two inches below the angled cut of the rafter, so that when the base-board is applied, the lower margin of the face-board will project one inch below the base.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 234._]

This base-board is horizontal, as you will see. The facia-board may be of any desired width, and a corner molding should be added. It is optional to use the brackets, but if added they should be s.p.a.ced apart a distance not greater than twice the height of the bracket.

A much simpler form of gutter is shown in Fig. 234, in which a V-shaped notch is also cut in the rafter, and the channel is made by the pieces.

The end of the rafter is cut at right angles, so the face-board is at an angle. This is also surmounted by an overhanging cap and a molding. The base is nailed to the lower edges of the rafters, and the facia is then applied.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 234a._]

In Fig. 234_a_ the roof has no gutter, so that the end of the rafter is cut off at an angle and a molding applied on the face-board. The base is nailed to the rafters. This is the cheapest and simplest form of structure for the roof.

SETTING DOOR AND WINDOW FRAMES.--The next step in order is to set the door and window frames preparatory to applying the weather boarding. It is then ready for the roof, which should be put on before the floor is laid.

PLASTERING AND INSIDE FINISH.--Next in order is the plastering, then the base-boards and the casing; and, finally, the door and windows should be fitted into position.

Enough has been said here merely to give a general outline, with some details, how to proceed with the work.

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