Part 12 (1/2)
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THE RECTANGULAR PLAN.--In the rectangular floor plan (Fig. 222) a portion of the floor s.p.a.ce is cut out for a porch (A), so that we may use the end or the side for the entrance. Supposing we use the end of the house for this purpose. The entrance room (B) may be a bedroom, or a reception and living room, and to the rear of this room is the dining room, connected with the reception room by a hall (C). This hall also leads to the kitchen and to the bathroom, as well as to the other bedroom. The parlor is connected with the entrance room (B), and also with the bedroom. All of this is optional, of course.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 222._]
There are also two chimneys, one chimney (D) having two flues and the other chimney (E) having three flues, so that every room is accommodated.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 223._]
ROOM MEASUREMENTS.--We must now determine the dimensions of each room, and then how we shall build the roof.
In Figs. 223 and 224, we have now drawn out in detail the sizes, the locations of the door and windows, the chimneys and the closets, as well as the bathroom. All this work may be changed or modified to suit conditions and the taste of the designer.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 224._]
FRONT AND SIDE LINES.--From the floor diagram, and the door and window s.p.a.ces, as marked out, we may now proceed to lay out rough front and side outlines of the building. The ceilings are to be 9 feet, and if we put a rather low-pitched roof on the square structure (Fig. 223) the front may look something like Fig. 225, and a greater pitch given to the rectangular plan (Fig. 224) will present a view as shown in Fig. 226.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 225._]
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 226._]
THE ROOF.--The pitch of the roof (Fig. 225) is what is called ”third pitch,” and the roof (Fig. 226) has a half pitch. A ”third” pitch is determined as follows:
ROOF PITCH.--In Fig. 227 draw a vertical line (A) and join it by a horizontal line (B). Then strike a circle (C) and step it off into three parts. The line (D), which intersects the first mark (E) and the angle of the lines (A, B), is the pitch.
In Fig. 228 the line A is struck at 15 degrees, which is halfway between lines B and C, and it is, therefore, termed ”half-pitch.”
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 227._]
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 228._]
Thus, we have made the ground plans, the elevations and the roofs as simple as possible. Let us proceed next with the details of the building.
THE FOUNDATION.--This may be of brick, stone or concrete, and its dimensions should be at least 1-1/2 inches further out than the sill.
THE SILLS.--We are going to build what is called a ”balloon frame”; and, first, we put down the sills, which will be a course of 2” 6”, or 2”
8” joists, as in Fig. 229.
THE FLOORING JOIST.--The flooring joists (A) are then put down (Fig.
230). These should extend clear across the house from side to side, if possible, or, if the plan is too wide, they should be lapped at the middle wall and spiked together. The ends should extend out flush with the outer margins of the sills, as shown, but in putting down the first and last sill, s.p.a.ce must be left along the sides of the joist of sufficient width to place the studding.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 229._]
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 230._]
THE STUDDING.--The next step is to put the studding into position. 4”
4” must be used for corners and at the sides of door and window openings. 4” 6” may be used at corners, if preferred. Consult your plan and see where the openings are for doors and windows. Measure the widths of the door and window frames, and make a measuring stick for this purpose. You must leave at least one-half inch clearance for the window or door frame, so as to give sufficient room to plumb and set the frame.
SETTING UP.--First set up the corner posts, plumbing and bracing them.