Part 4 (1/2)
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[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 31._]
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 32._]
The ill.u.s.tration (Fig. 31) shows a board marked with the cross lines (B) at each end for the end of the tenons, or the extreme ends of the boards.
THE TENONS.--Do not neglect first to select the work side and the working edge of the board. The outer surface and the upper edges are the sides to work from. The cheekpiece (A) of the gage must always rest against the working side.
The cross marks (B, C) should be made with the point of a sharp knife, and before the small back saw is used on the cross-cuts the lines (B), which indicate the shoulders, should be scored with a sharp knife, as shown in Fig. 33. This furnishes a guide for the saw, and makes a neat finish for the shoulder.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 33._]
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 34._]
[Illusstration _Fig. 35._]
TOOLS USED.--The back saw is used for cutting the tenon, and the end of the board appears as shown in the enlarged Fig. 34. Two things are now necessary to complete the tenons. On the upper or work edge of each board use the gage to mark off a half-inch slice, and then cut away the flat side of the tenon at the end, on its inner surface, so it will appear as shown in Fig. 35.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 36._]
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 37._]
CHAMFERED TENONS.--The object of these chamfered or beveled tenons is to permit the ends to approach each other closely within the mortise, as shown in the a.s.sembled parts (Fig. 36).
THE FRAME a.s.sEMBLED.--The frame is now ready to a.s.semble, but before doing so a drawer opening and supports should be made. The ends of the supports may be mortised into the side pieces or secured by means of gains.
Mortises and tenons are better.
THE DRAWER SUPPORTS.--Take one of the side-facing boards (Fig. 37) and cut a rectangular opening in it. This opening should be 4 inches wide and 18 inches long, so placed that there is 1 inch of stock at the upper margin and 2 inches of stock at the lower margin of the board. At each lower corner make a mortise (A), so that one side of the mortise is on a line with the margin of the opening, and so that it extends a half inch past the vertical margin of the opening.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 38._]
You can easily cut a gain (B) in a strip, or, as in Fig. 38, you may use two strips, one (C) an inch wide and a half inch thick, and on this nail a strip (D) along one margin. This forms the guide and rest for the drawer.
At the upper margin of the opening is a rebate or gain (E) at each corner, extending down to the top line of the drawer opening, into which are fitted the ends of the upper cross guides.
THE TABLE FRAME.--When the entire table frame is a.s.sembled it will have the appearance shown in Fig. 39, and it is now ready for the top.
THE TOP.--The top should be made of three boards, either tongued and grooved, or doweled and glued together. In order to give a ma.s.sive appearance, and also to prevent the end grain of the boards from being exposed, beveled strips may be used to encase the edges. These marginal cleats are 3/4 inch thick and 2 inches wide, and joined by beveled ends at the corners, as shown in Fig. 40.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 39._]
THE DRAWER.--The drawer (Fig. 41) shown in cross section, has its front (A) provided with an overlapping f.l.a.n.g.e (B).
It is not our object in this chapter to show how each particular article is made, but simply to point out the underlying principles, and to ill.u.s.trate how the fastening elements, the tenons and mortises, are formed, so that the boy will know the proper steps in their natural order.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _Fig. 40._]
HOW ANY STRUCTURE IS BUILT UP.--It should be observed that each structure, however small, is usually built from the base up. Just the same as the more pretentious buildings are erected: First, the sill, then the floor supports, then the posts and top plates, with their connecting girders, and, finally, the roof.