Part 8 (1/2)

BIB

This joint is another bra.s.s to lead, and is the last single joint to be wiped in this course of joint wiping.

MATERIALS NEEDED.--The materials required for this joint are as follows: 10 inches of 5/8-inch extra strong lead pipe; one 1/2-inch bra.s.s sink bib for lead pipe; one pot of solder, paste and paper, 1/2 and 1/2 solder, catch pan, and supports.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 31.]

TOOLS REQUIRED.--The tools required for this job are the saw, rasp, tap borer, bending irons, file, ladle, wiping cloths, shave hook, knife and rule, soldering iron.

PREPARATION.--To prepare the lead pipe after cutting from the coil and squaring the ends with the rasp is very similar to the 5/8-inch branch joint. The center of the pipe is marked and a hole is made in it with the tap borer large enough to admit the bending irons.

The hole is enlarged with the irons. A good substantial collar is made around the hole to hold the bib in place. One and one-eighth inches are marked off on each side of the branch and an easy curve connects the two. The paper is then cut out and pasted on the pipe after it has been sc.r.a.ped with the shave hook.

The end of the bra.s.s bib is filed bright and tinned with the soldering iron and 1/2 and 1/2 solder. Before the tinning is done, paper is put on the bra.s.s, leaving only 1-1/8 inches exposed. The tinning must be thoroughly done, or it will come off and have to be re-tinned.

SUPPORTING.--The bib is fitted into the lead opening and the collar is forced against the bib to hold it in place and prevent any solder from leaking through into the bore of the pipe. The bib must not extend too far into the lead pipe or it will obstruct the flow of water. The lead pipe is laid on two bricks the same as the round joint. The bib is laid on an angle of 45 pointing away from the wiper. Some bricks can be piled up to the right height to hold the bib in place and a solder strap can be made to hold it steady.

The lead pipe can be held steady by weighting each end. The catch pan is now placed under the joint and everything is ready for wiping.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 32.--Bib.]

WIPING.--When the solder is hot, getting the heat on the pipe is started. Solder should be dropped oftener on the bra.s.s bib than on the lead pipe. It takes more heat to heat the bra.s.s thoroughly than it does the lead. If this is followed out, little difficulty will be had in getting up the heat and in wiping. Use the branch cloth for wiping and make sure that all edges are perfectly cleaned before making the final strokes. As this is the only position that the joint will be wiped in, practice should be continued until perfect joints can be obtained.

POINTS TO REMEMBER.--

_First_, materials needed.

_Second_, tools needed.

_Third_, use tap borer.

_Fourth_, enlarge hole with bending irons.

_Fifth_, make substantial collar around the opening.

_Sixth_, paper the lead.

_Seventh_, file the bib, then paper.

_Eighth_, tin the bib.

_Ninth_, place in position and wipe.

DRUM TRAP

The making of the drum trap will bring out the skill of the beginner. The entire trap is made of lead pipe. The lead will require a great deal of handling. Therefore, care must be exercised in all operations to turn the trap out in a workmanlike manner.

MATERIALS NEEDED.--The materials needed to complete this job are: 10 inches of 4-inch 8-pound lead pipe; 18 inches of 1-1/2-inch light lead pipe; paste and paper, support, solder, and catch pan.

TOOLS NEEDED.--The tools required for this job are: saw, rasp, bending irons, shave hook, bending spring, tap borer, dresser, ladle, drift plug, and wiping cloths.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 33.--Drum trap.]

PREPARING.--Take the 10-inch piece of lead pipe and hold it in one hand, in the other hand take a pine dresser. Strike the lead pipe with the dresser. The pipe is struck about 2 inches from the end and is beaten evenly all around. The pipe is then struck nearer the end until finally the bore of the pipe is almost closed. This closed end should be rounding and symmetrical. To get this shape the pipe must be continually moved and turned. One side must not be forced in more than the other. If there are any dents in the pipe or part of the pipe is forced in too much it may be driven out as follows: Take an old piece of 1/2-inch lead pipe and round one end of it with a hammer; this can be used by hitting the inside of the closed end of the drum and forcing out the dents. The rounded end of the trap is not quite closed and a hole about 3/4 inch is left.