Volume I Part 36 (1/2)

In the evening looked into the Church and Piazza of San Lorenzo in Lucina The church is hung with drapery, adorned with statues, and illuminated by innumerable wax candles The piazza is illu out from the s There were crowds of people, lines of chairs, and boys bawling to the people to co lemonade, others the life and exploits of the saint on penny papers; a band ofabout

Between the intervals of the band the bells, in discordant chorus, regaled 'the ears of the groundlings' This strange, discordant scene, the foundation of which is religious, but which has but little of the appearance of religion in it, lasts eight successive days, and costs a vast sureatest part of which is furnished by the Government

It probably answers some end, for it is difficult to conceive that any Government, even this, should spend money, of which they have so little to spare, on these fooleries while poverty overspreads the land This cereht is certainly very gay Close by, in the Palazzo Mani, is a theatre of marionettes, who play a comedy of Goldoni The Duke Fiani lets part of his palace for this purpose What an exhibition of wretchedness! He reserves a box which his servants let to anybody, whether on his account or their own I don't know

_Evening_--Went before dinner to the Villa Mada to the royal house of Naples, with fine paintings still on the walls and ceilings, the vestiges of former luxury, and a capital view of Roe, and the orio to see the frescoes, the 'Martyrdom of St Andrew,' the rival frescoes of Guido and Domenichino, and afterwards drove about till dark, ent to a ellants I had heard of it, and had long been curious to assist at it The church was diation not nu the responses, after which a priest, or one of the attendants of the church, went round with a bundle of whips of knotted cord, and gave one to each person who chose to take it I took ravely accept the whip, that he was obliged to hide his face in his hands, and was passed over In a few uished, and ere left in total darkness Then an invisible preacher began exhorting his hearers to whip themselves severely, and as he went on his vehe was heard all round the church, which continued a few ed us to fresh exertions, and crack went the whips again louder and faster than before as he exhorted The faithful flogged till a bell rang; the whips stopped, in a few ain, and the priest came round and collected his cords I had squeezed ht it aith uished the doors were locked, so that nobody could go out or come in till the discipline was over I was rather nervous ere locked up in total darkness, but nobody whipped me, and I certainly did not whip ht it can't be called) I never witnessed I don't think the people stripped, nor, if they did, that the cords could have hurt them much From thence to St Peter's, where we found the _quarant' ore_ and the high altar illuhts scattered at a great distance through the rest of the church, very few people there; but the diht, the deep shades, the vast space, and the profound stillness were subli in the world can approach St Peter's, and it always presents so new to admire

Froht The effect is wonderful, and totally unlike that which is produced by day The finest statues unquestionably gain thethis, to understand why most of the best are found in the baths; a better notion, too, nificence It would seem as if some statues had been formed expressly to be thus exhibited There is a mutilated statue they call a Niobe (God knohy), with drapery blown back by the wind and appearing quite transparent

This effect cannot be produced by daylight

[Page Head: BUNSEN'S ACCOUNT OF ROME]

June 2nd, 1830

Called on Bunsen, who has not yet got an answer froent he sent to the office of the Grand Vicar I had a long conversation with hient of some sort at Rome, which he thinks very desirable and very feasible, upon the same plan on which the diplomatic relations of Prussia with Roo on very smoothly, and without eood faith on both sides The Catholic bishops do not attempt to deceive the Government, and he thinks that the Court of Rome does not attempt to hold any clandestine intercourse with the Prussian States He says Albani is a sensible oted and prejudiced, hostile to England, and etful of all the See of Rome owes to our country; but they are still aware that, in the hour of danger, it is to England and the Protestant countries they must look for protection, as they found it when Austria wanted to strip them of the March of Ancona He thinks there is ion auing and extending its influence which the Romish Church has always had, but with very diminished means and resources The Inquisition is still active in repressing heresy a to ners Its principles and its forms are the same as in former times He says we have an inefficient Consul at Ancona, as put in by Canning on account of his Liverpool connections It would be very desirable to establish a regular Protestant church in Rome, with an able and permanent minister; but there is only an occasional church, with anybody ill serve in it, and who is paid by the congregation; but such a man is totally unable to cope with the Catholic preachers, and consequently ion A Consul-General at Ro an accredited Minister, perform all the functions of one This was the pith of what he said, besides a great deal about the Catholic religion itself, its inferiority to the Reforood deal more, not much to the purpose

Bunsen is a , and communicative, sensible, moderate, but rather prejudiced At this iers], and their colonising projects, of which he is thoroughly persuaded and not a little afraid

The Duc de Dalberg told ress of Vienna he was deputed to speak to Consalvi about ceding the March of Ancona to the Austrians He answered, 'My dear Duke, the Congress can treat us as it pleases If we are pressed, we o, and we are there already' The Cardinal afterwards spoke to the Emperor, and the next day Metternich said he had orders fro from the Pontifical States without the free concurrence of the Pope; so there ended that question

[Page Head: FRASCATI]

_At night_--Just returned froreeable expedition We went to the inn, a most execrable hotel, but dined very well on a repast we had the foresight to take with us Before dinner went to the Villa Conti, which has a delicious garden, with fine trees and ample shade, and one of the prettiest falls of water I have seen The house we did not enter, but it appeared sarden, but a capital house, and the only one which looks well kept and inhabited The Marconi house in the Conti garden would be perfect After dinner to Tusculunificent views over the Cana on one side and Monte Cavo, Rocca di Papa, and the Prati d'Annibale on the other The re, part of a theatre, of an aqueduct, and of the walls I believe the toas destroyed by Pope Celestine III (1191), in order to extirpate a band of robbers which had long infested the country and hold All the country hereabout is beautiful, and the air excellent, so that a ined To the Villa Belvidere, belonging to Prince Aldobrandini, deserted and neglected, but very enjoyable, full of childish orks, but a good house, which is to be hired for 150 a year, and ht be made very comfortable Here is Mount Parnassus, and the water turns an organ, and so makes Apollo and the Muses utter horrid sounds, and a Triton has a horn which he isa very discordant noise I fell in with Lady Sandwich, and went back to tea with her at a villa which belonged to the Cardinal York There are the royal arland, a bust of the Cardinal, and a picture of his father or brother We also went to the Rufinella, whence the view is extremely fine; this was Lucien Buonaparte's villa, and the scene of the capture of a painter and a steward by the banditti, who carried them off from the door of the villa and took them into the Abruzzi, which may be descried from the terrace The cicerone ith us (a tireso fellow) told us that he had attended Queen Caroline, that they had coainst her, and he had declared he knew nothing; but he said he could have deposed to soether and witnessed their fae Head: PROTESTANT STATES AND ROME]

June 4th, 1830 {p391}

Yesterday rode round the walls In the evening to the Vatican, and afterwards to Bunsen's He gave me his memorandum to read, which is contained in a letter to Wilmot Horton of the 28th of December, 1828, upon the settlement of the Catholic question, and his view of the ht be done He approves of Wil at that tirant unqualified eements between the other Protestant Powers and the Court of Roht pursue a similar course It is well done, and his ideas appear to me very clear and sound It is pretty evident that we should meet with no difficulties here, and that they would practically agree to everything we should require, provided we did not insist upon their doing so in specific terms Our difficulties would arise from the extreme parties at home--the ultra-Catholics and the ultra-Protestants--but a steady hand ht steer betwixt them both Bunsen describes what has been done in Prussia, Hanover, Netherlands, and the ean to negotiate, he did not allow his Ministers to enter upon any discussion of principles, nor to ask for any express sanction of the _status quo_ On the other hand he did not prescribe to the Church of Rohts of the Croas to be made as to the secularisation of Church property The Netherlands went on a different plan, and framed a constitution of the Roe The Hanoverian Governe the Pope to sanction certain civil regulations concerning Church governnorant of, and thus tacitly acknowledge, s which it never will nor can expressly sanction and approve

Throughout Germany, both Catholic and Protestant, all correspondence between the clergy and the Pope goes through the Government by the law of the country--all matters public and private--the Pope's bulls and briefs are returned in the same way; and whenever any of these contain expressions which run against the national laws, the _placet regiuhts of the Crown, and annulling what is irreconcilable with the civil law The Court of Roations of Bavaria and Austria, as well as those of Prussia and Hanover, present the respective petitions of their clergy through their Ro can be practically more established, but that no consideration would induce the Pope formally to sanction the practice in a treaty

In the arrangenitaries, Prussia proposed the establishht of election which had existed before the French Revolution The smaller States of Germany followed a similar plan Hanover proposed and obtained a veto The chapter presents a list; the Government strikes out any name, but must leave two, out of which the chapter ularity or inconvenience the chapter may make a second list The Netherlands have the same system of limited veto and second list, and the confidential brief in addition[10] The chapters have the right of election, the Pope of confirmation, by canonical institution as the necessary condition of the bishop's consecration; but besides a confidential brief was agreed on desiring the chapter not to elect as bishop a person 'i;' this ensures respect to the royal recoested by Bunsen at Rome to Mr Greville were afterwards used by hiument for the establishment of diplomatic relations with the Court of Roland to Ireland,' published in 1845]

June 5th, 1830 {p393}

Yesterdaycalled on M de la Ferronays, but only saw him for a ed to go He is in great alarm as well as sorrow at the appointment of M de Peyronnet[11] and the aspect of affairs in France He told me that he had so little idea of this appointuessed anybody rather than that man, as so odious that he had been rejected for three successive places, for the representation of which he had stood when he was Minister; that Villele, with all his influence, could not get him elected; and that in the Chamber of Peers he had been so inte which hardly ever occurred; that the Govern hi a sort of insult to the whole nation; that it rendered his own position here very disagreeable, although his was an ecclesiastical and not a political mission, and that he in fact considered it only as an honourable retreat; yet he had written to Polignac thethat if he considered hiree implicated politically with his Governn, and that if he found by his answer that he looked upon hiree connected with theirafterwards, who appears to me deeply alarton as the only man whose authority or interference can arrest the French Ministry in the career which eneral war in Europe He believes that Metternich and the Austrians are backing up Charles X, and that, in case of any troubles, they will, in virtue of the Treaty of Chaumont, pour troops into France His hope, then, is that the Duke will interpose and prevent this Austrian interference

[11] [M de Peyronnet was the Garde des Sceaux in the Polignac Cabinet: he was considered one of the most reactionary members of that ill-fated Adnac his opinion of the course he was beginning, the other only said, 'Mon cher, tu ne connais pas le pays' The King told Dalberg hi of England; that it was not being a king In his presence, too, he asked General ----, the Governor of Paris, as the disposition of the troops, and he answered, 'Excellent, sir; I have been in all the _casernes_, and they desire nothing so ht for your Majesty;' and such words as these the King ss and acts upon Their confidence, audacity, and presue about a crisis with the least possible delay