Volume I Part 35 (1/2)

The sa's verses on his son:--

Whilst I, reversed our nature's kindlier doom, Pour forth a father's sorrows o'er his too vivendo vici enitor

As I came back I looked into San Bernardo, Santa Maria della Vittoria, and Santa Susanna, and I stopped to look at the 'Moses striking the Rock,' which is certainly very fine, though there is too h of rock or water After breakfast to the Vatican library, where the Duc de Dalberg had engaged the Abbe Maii to meet him, and he showed us all the manuscripts, most of which I had already seen He is very laborious as well as learned Maii is said to undertake too reat deal half exaet who) is at daggers draith him, so it may be the accusation of a literary enes to several places, to all of which I had been before At every church the duchess and her daughter dropped on their knees and sprinkled the could get him down upon his marrow bones

May 25th, 1830 {p375}

Breakfasted with Gell in his Boschetto Gellio under a treillage of vines, and surrounded by fruits and flowers He was very agreeable, and told us a greatoff for Tivoli

[Page Head: TIVOLI]

May 27th, 1830 {p375}

Went to Tivoli The journey hotter than flana

It is the most beastly town I ever saw, ars and children The inn veryover the country, in a private house We all dined together

---- is the merriest of saints, the jolliest of devotees, and very unlike the ghost in 'Don Juan,' who says, 'Che si pasce di cibo celeste non si pasce di cibo orously obedient to the prescribed fasts of the Church, she devours flesh enough on other days to suffice for those on which it is forbidden; and on the re days she indeetables, and _sucreries_ of all kinds It is only like eating her first course on Thursday and her second on Friday

After dinner we sent for the nificent name of Pietro Stupendo, called 'Stupendous' fro out the views His real name is Barbarossa, which is nearly as fine We went to see the sun set from the Villa d'Este a very fine villa, with clipped trees, orks, and all the usual beauties of Italian villas

It belongs to the Duke of Modena, is uninhabited, and falling to decay for want of care and attention Thence to the Teoes by both naraceful, and perched on the point of a rock, but its effect spoiled by being ely houses The fall beloas rand, and it looks rather artificial We saw it froain, but nobody else would stir out I went down to the fall, and had bundles of hay lit on the rock above, and soala_, a sort of firework, put in the teht upon the cascade, and the light and shade upon the rocks, and the teh the darkness by the soft blue fla, were very fine, and in the obscurity it seemed much more extensive and natural I saw this first froht

[6] I believe it to be the Sybil's Te close to it they call the Sybil's Temple, but I do not see by what authority

Nibby says it is Vesta, but everybody else says the Sybil-- FORSYTH, CRAMER, &c

[Page Head: TIVOLI]

Yesterday iro_ of Tivoli at six, but as wo was to be gone through before we got under weigh, ere not off till near eight The consequence was that we got into the heat, and lost the colouring of the early reat part of the beauty of this scenery depends I was altogether disappointed; the hills are either quite bare or covered with olives, the most tiresoh the view at the foot of the largest (or as near as you can approach it) is beautiful, on the whole no part of the scenery answered my expectations The water falls in eleven separate cascades (above and below), and sinking into the gulf appears to boil up again in clouds of spray, but the artificial channel above is distinctly visible There is an ancient bridge over the Anio and part of a road up to Tivoli in wonderful preservation Our party pleased their iustus and Mecaenas had probably gone cheek by jowl over the road and bridge, but Stupendous told h he had no notion who Valerian was, except that he was an Emperor

There are some curious remains of Mecaenas's Villa, particularly the places (if they are really so) where the slaves were kept, which are just like cellars I cannot re any apartments destined for slaves at Pompeii, but from all one sees or hears and reads of the Roman slaves, they must have been treated in a manner that it is inconceivable they should have endured, considering their nuenerally composed--barbarian prisoners or free citizens reduced to servitude We ended the _giro_ at the Villa d'Este, and breakfasted on the terrace; the rest of the party then retired to sleep and play at cards at the inn, and I started with Stupendous to see the remains of an ancient city, and some specimens of Cyclopean walls, about four or five miles off The first place is called Ventidius Bassa's, because that gentleman had a villa there, built on the ruins of a little Cyclopean tohere there are still so Froe town, the vestiges still covering several hills, and the re left but a few broken fluted columns, and one flat marble stone perfect, with an inscription This jaunt was hardly worth the trouble

When I came back from Mitriano, I went down to the Grotto of the Syrens, from whence the view of the cascade is rand; but the path is very slippery froo quite to the grotto, for Stupendous told me he had nearly slipped down the rock and cracked his crown; so I declined running that risk, but saw just as well, for I went nearly to the bottom

At half-past four ent to Adrian's Villa, hich I was ascan be ives such an idea of the grandeur of the ancient masters of the world They are six miles in circuh not very distinct, but it is very easy to perceive that they are the ruins of a villa, or a collection of ornas, and not of a tohich froht be Almost all the ruins of antiquity that adorn Rome were found here, or in Caracalla's Baths, which latter were supplied from this stock--all the Albani collection, most of the Musobrbonico at Naples, and half the Vatican The Albani collection was made by a nephew of Clement XI, the Albani Pope They say only one-fourth has been excavated The ruins are overgroith ivy and all sorts of creepers The grounds are full of pines and cypresses of great size, and it is altogether one of theand beautiful spots I have seen in Italy The Villa Adriani now belongs to Duke Braschi, nephew of Pius VI He has not excavated, but the truth is that there is little temptation to individuals to do so The Government have taken all the ruins under their protection, and no proprietor is allowed to destroy any part of the, he ht of pre-ener for any object he h the Government may not choose to buy it at the same price They will fix a fair, but not a fancy price, but the vendor is often obliged, when they do buy it, to wait many years for his money Albani employed 1,000 men to excavate

We ca The duchess wanted us to keep with her carriage (she had a pair and we had four horses), for fear she should be robbed--for she had heard that soo--which we proallop, we fell asleep, and they were left to their fate

[Page Head: MISS KELLY'S ADVENTURE]

_At night_--Thisthe newspapers, a woed to introduce to me She was a Mrs Kelly, of whose history I had already heard, and I told Chiaveri I would assist her if I could She told me her case in detail The short of it is this:-- She and her daughter (who is very pretty) got acquainted at Florence with a fa, and hearing she was rich, ained her affections (as they call it), and proposed to reed, provided her mother did They came to Rome Swift followed, established himself at the same inn, and wrote to the mother to propose himself The mother declined He wrote a second letter--saive hi her to elope with hie He pressed her to give him a written promise to this effect before witnesses

After so been previously appointed by him) she met him in another rooned two papers without reading them, heard a short form muttered over, which she did not understand, and then was told to run downstairs again A few days after she got uneasy as to what had happened, and confessed it all to her e cereled She told her lover what she had done, who asked her what her mother had said

She told hie, but that she had told her it was not, when he inforave her of the sort, and the first tiarded her as his wife She reproached him with his duplicity and the imposition he had practised on her, and told him she would have no more to say to him This took place in St Peter's one Friday at vespers Soon after they went to Naples, where Swift followed, and wrote to her iveness; that she e was not valid, but she would find it was, having been celebrated by an abbe, witnessed by the nephew of a cardinal, and the certificate signed by a cardinal, with the knowledge of the Pope She sent no anshen he begged an interviehich she granted, and then he told her that he was a Catholic, and that her daughter had beconed an act of abjuration of the Protestant religion Theto do with hied her religion at all He then claimed her as his wife, and tried to prevail on Hill and Lushi+ngton (Sir Henry Lushi+ngton, Consul--the present Lord Berwick, Minister) to prevent their leaving Naples They declined to interfere, and advised the o holand She took the hint and set off He followed, and overtook them at Roious authorities that they were taking away his wife to prevent her being a Catholic, and ot them to interfere, and their passports were refused Such is their story They have nobody to advise, assist, or protect thee Head: MISS KELLY'S ADVENTURE]