Part 13 (1/2)

The heat of the sun, though great, is here tempered by a cool air fro in their light waggon with one horse, have joined us; they are on their way to Virginia, in which State he lives; he see in hueneral; yet custom could make him smile at my expression of abhorrence, when he said there was no law practically for slaves in that State, and that he has _frequently_ seen theed to death_!

A PENSILVANIAN INNKEEPER

When we drove up to the door, a black or two came to the horses, no ot out and walked into the coer to know if there was a master of the house, who very civilly said he was in the back part and would perhaps soon come; I then went and called the Independent, who came forward, {42} I told him anted breakfast, he just inquired for howa place to sit doent to order it This man I afterwards could perceive knehat he was about,--the above is one of the lishar minds cannot perceive the difference between servility and civility Having a tent in the baggage waggon and every thing for the purpose, we last night escaped these sort of fellows, and their bugs and fleas, by driving into the wood, where, finding a pleasant spot and good water, we lighted a fire, took tea very comfortably, and slept well upon the ca the hot weather, is by far the most pleasant plan where it can be adopted; but there are soot over; it is not always in one's power to pitch the tent in the neighbourhood of good water; the apprehension of the horses breaking their halters and straying is not pleasant; (otherwise, they are quite as well off as ourselves away froreater attendance necessarily required from our own servants, both to ourselves and horses is harassing,--another assistant or tould have rendered the plan feasible with coe that {43} tavern-keeping should increase in these times, so dead as they say to trade, and consequently one would suppose also dead for travelling; but so it is, taverns are every where building or adding to: what a joyous prospect for the bugs and fleas! Expressing myself at a loss the other day to account for the nu said he guessed they were preparing for better times--they could just now do it cheaper as hands, in consequence of want of money, were more plentiful: his observation appears just

[Illustration: Widow McMurran's Tavern, Scrub Ridge]

_August 3d_ The weather is extremely hot, and we have encountered severalThe therht of air at one o'clock; in the sun it is at least 108 Many parties fro are on the road for the West, and we hear of great nu towards the great point of attraction the western country

We have now passed over Cove e;[14] the road over both has been lately formed, is judiciously laid, and would be excellent were the stones covered with gravel, or rather were they broken small; as it is, one is shaken to pieces without the possibility of avoiding it {44} Under this evil we are solaced by the views of grand forest scenery,--the Oak of several kinds, the sweet Chestnut, the black Walnut and Hickory, with here and there tracts of pine, cover theseshelter to herds of deer, foxes, rakoons, and also, as we had occular proof, to snakes of various kinds Throughout the hbourhood you al a delicious beverage during the hot weather; the trunk of a tree hollowed out is set up like a pump, with a spout near the top, fro towards its level, runs in a clear and cool streae]

5th At bloody Run, called so froht with the natives;[15]

here stands a little town pleasantly situate on the Juniatta river, and containing several useful trades, such as blacksht, harness-maker, tailor, and draper, &c We approached it for the last nine , which is laid a considerable way along the Juniatta, the banks of which are beautifully edged oodland Soon here were charged at the following rate:--

Cents

{45} Wheelwright, for t poles, one great swing tree, and two single ditto 4 : 50 Blacks the above (except one of the poles) 6 : 50 Price of a horse-shoe and putting on 0 : 31-1/2 Ditto, a remove 0 : 12-1/2

We here enjoyed ourselves under the coood inn and attentive landlady

10th At Johnson's tavern, foot of Chestnut Ridge We have now passed the Allegany mountains, and can affirm that at this time of the year there is little except the stony road very fore ; that, indeed, they may rely upon The settlers on the eastern side of the reat pains to deter the traveller fro sure, &c, I was told of the great difficulties of Laurel Hill; the fact is, it proved the easiest of the whole; nothing annoyed us but the sun, it being about an the ascent

Much has been said of the expense of travelling in this country, I give therefore a night's bill at one of the better houses, viz

Cents

{46} 5 Suppers 1 : 87-1/2 Lodging 0 : 37-1/2 Hay for 4 horses 1 : 0 8 Gallons (1 Bushel) of Oats 1 : 0_s_ _d_ --------- 4 : 25 0 : 19 : 1-1/2

A night's bill at a good English inn for the same would be double the aht in so of whiskey, to which a cloth seemed never to have been applied; out of a pitcher of water he poured so the water into the waiter upon which the wine stood, walked away satisfied with this proof of his cleanliness: and a fe, in order to brush away the flies while ere at supper, flourished over our heads her dirty pocket handkerchief, in the absence of the brush of feathers fixed upon a long stick, which is generally waved over the dishes during the repast The practice of going barefoot is here very general a people, particularly the feht {47} in New York and Philadelphia, during the suood houses; a custo close shoes and stockings

12th At Greensburgh, thirty h The country we have lately passed is beautifully undulated, land of good quality interspersed oodland, worth near from twenty to twenty-five dollars per acre; water plentiful and good

Our landlord has just returned from a journey to the western country as far as St Louis, on the borders of the Missourie territory; his report of the country is not favourable: he says it is very unhealthy, which he ascribes to the woodland, contrary to the general situation of such land, being lower than the open prairie; consequently retaining nant water, the fruitful cause of diseases

18th At Hayes' tavern, three ham of America” I had intended to es made me hasten out of it in search of rest and fresh air to this place

The town of Pittsburgh[16] stands beautifully, at the junction of the two rivers, and the land around it is of good quality; but its trade is upon the wane, not alone owing I apprehend to the ti better situated for ready com upon its decay