Part 12 (1/2)
_Sunday_, 20th, four A M Land at length seen on starboard quarter, which proved to be Long Island: the sun arose and brought with it a day and breezes thethe coast of the Island, at about seven ination s, and other shi+pping are in vieorking {17} different ways, and our recent alarrandeur of the scene
Before night we passed Sandy Hook, were boarded by a pilot, who took us up the Bay about six ht: once more then surrounded by land, the outline of which was indistinctly seen by the aid of an azure sky thickly studded with stars, we at length retired to rest, and undisturbed by noise slept profoundly
21st The shi+p dropped anchor again opposite the Quarantine ground, where it was necessary to undergo an exaain the o on shore, and after seven weeks' confineain a walk on land We procured clams, oysters, milk, new bread, &c loaded hich we returned well pleased on board The houses here are chiefly fra lean-to sheds roofed like the houses with shi+ngles, the best being made of cedar; under these sheds the inhabitants sit and enjoy the cool breezes, unannoyed by the scorching rays of the sun: cherry and peach are the principal trees around these dwellings, except the weeping- and formal Lombardy poplar; these last one would suppose the least likely {18} to be cultivated in a country where shade is more a necessary co in working up to the Quarantine ground, we passed a schooner, or rather the remains of one (for it was a mere wreck,) which had suffered in one of those black squalls that had passed over us; she had only a stu sail was tied
22d After so the permit for our departure from the Quarantine hospital, (which the filthy state of several of the steerage births ahed anchor for the last ti leisure to ad scenery of the Bay, and soon brought-to off the city of NEW YORK;--an officer of the customs came on board; he appeared a very respectable ers; at the same time was strict in his duty and superior to a bribe[4] Our fees at the custoether half a dollar and twenty {19} cents: on leaving England we had paid the Captain for doing the saood pay_ for the trouble, and indeed I should reco this affair for himself, if he values money
23d The heat of the weather in the city is so oppressive to English constitutions, that we have established ourselves across the river, on the Jersey shore, at a very pleasant place called Hoboken;--here we pay 7 per week each, for board and lodging, and have a quick and pleasant communication with New York by stea the day to and fro-house to inquire their ter speci for the Landlord, a young wo the floor slip-shod, desired us to walk into a rooht wait for further orders!! We did as ere ordered, reflecting on this contrast to a good English inn where, upon the traveller's arrival, from the Landlord down to ”Boots,”[5] all are i to attend to your wishes
One reason for this want of attention in the American servants is, that they are paid wholly by their eh, I have since seen enough to convinceaway, and that in general the servants will not refuse a fee when offered
Called at a working cutler's near the post-office, to purchase a pocket knife; he asked two dollars for one which in London would be sold for about four shi+llings; said he paid rent for his shop alone 400, and that fuel cost hi per week
The Americans at New York have not made a favourable ia to the general distress of land; and also the effects of the French revolution, felt upon both continents, but in a ree in Aainst it;--the people here like those of England were beyond ant under the deceitful prosperity, and they now doubly feel the dreadful re-action Besides, like ancient Rome, here is the asylum of {21} the desperate and discontented of all nations:--Will the period arrive when, like the forlobe? It is, if I e, at all events very distant; they ain the necessary qualities for the attainment of such an elevation; at present, of these they are nearly destitute But to return to my journal
Business here, with the exception of a few respectable houses, is conducted on an apparently slovenly plan; clerks at their banks look like our tavern waiters in deshabille, and the bankers themselves not in appearance so respectable as our clerks
The town is handsos constantly remind one that here the people rule, and their convenience and coeneral twice as broad as ours, in so up at least as es; and the hackney coaches are not only neat but _elegant_ in our sense of the word, and both drivers and horses equally superior In a late publication,[6] it is observed that the goods in the stores are set out in a slovenly manner; {22} my own observation is that their shops or stores are apparently as good, and the stock as well shewn as in ood houses in London: their coffee-houses and dinner-roo-houses are even superbly fitted up, very much in the French style: the Tontine, the City, and the Bank-coffeehouses are three of the first; and a person may now dine at any one of them, I believe, for three dollars and a half per week, and fare sumptuously upon turtle, &c every day;--wine is but little drank, or any other liquor indeed, either at or imiven to ood--”We consider dinner as a sufficient sti wine or spirits to it”
The business of the courts of justice during the sureat heat of the weather in the day ti together without danger of fevers, particularly such persons as compose the witnesses, auditors, and attendants in a law court
Mr Fearon states, that forgery of bank notes is unknown here, for, that the execution of them is so excellent (I write the sense of his words from memory) it renders it too difficult to attempt--I can affirm that there was scarcely a store I {23} went into at New York, but they could shew me several; and so well executed, it was impossible for ed note
A DRIVE TO THE FALLS OF THE PassAIC RIVER, JERSEY STATE
Leaving Hoboken on the Delaware, we proceed along a good road with soh the town of Hackensac to the village of Paterson; where we found a good tavern and an attentive Landlord, a very re at the table d'hote, which was very well provided, we set out to walk to the falls, asun, which made it appear at least two The beautiful clear streaentle Passaic here suddenly rushes doo perpendicular fissures in the granite rock; rand fall at each, of about one hundred feet, into a capacious basin beneath; fro a stony bed a{24} a placid course it winds through a country thickly settled, the inhabitants chiefly Dutch and Ger by the towns of Belville and Newark finally les its waters with the Delaware The views near Belville, and on the road to it on the banks of the Passaic, are very fine: but the whole way the black population were so numerous as to be quite oppressive to the eye unaccustoroup of black heads huddled together glaring at us:--But the beautiful Passaic has floated us away from its falls too soon; we must just return thither to say that we ascended by steps made for the purpose to the top of the rocks, fro clefts of great depth, and one of the: a new-married couple acco the tremendous broken and precipitous rocks and chas in order to descend; when the bride ran back, as she said, to take a last view, and heedlessly going too near to the edge of the yawning cleft fell into it in sight of her husband, who in vain rushed to save her--she was seen noto the tavern at Paterson, I asked the little shabby bare-footed boy, our guide, {25} whether he worked at a wool , ”No,” said he, rather bluntly; ”I go to school;I did not hear correctly, I repeated the question and received the same answer ”And pray what is a 'squire, what does he do?” ”Oh, he attends sessions, trials, and hears causes” ”And what may your father do at other times?” ”He _assists_ Mrat the tavern there, in the bar!”
We returned to Hoboken by the town of Belville; day departed long before we got back, and night came on, its darkness beautifully relieved by the novel effect of the fire-fly,in perpetualthe air and the surface of the low grounds with brilliant illuons drawn by two horses harnessed to a pole, which are here by the country people used generally: in these the farmer and his family travel at a brisk pace and very commodiously;--at a distance I at first fancied a handso, as they drove towards us; indeed, away from the city every one seeusting arar to be seen:[7] we have, however, {26} already discovered that this country is not entitled to a character for cheap living; for many articles, particularly those of luxury, you pay at least asin this, (a very material one to the seller,) that here, the whole price of the cooes into the pocket; there, a heavy tax is paid in some shape or other out of every article sold: for exa and horse for the day is here thirteen shi+llings and sixpence sterling; the owner puts the whole of this into his pocket, for there is no duty to governland we all know too well that there is an enore and horse Wine here, though of course to be bought ed at least a dollar and a half per bottle at a public boarding-house, though the duty on iland the price is the sah duties As another instance, washi+ng is done here fros and sixpence sterling per dozen, of everything indiscriland, where the sas
From the above examples, and many more I could rate to this country to _spend_ an incoe; it is equally evident that the individual who goes to _make money_ may be benefited
4th Sunday here presents aconteovern out quietly and in ut to the places of worshi+p of their several persuasions: the English protestant establishment seems to be well attended; the service with a few alterations, and the (perhaps) well-judged omission of our frequent repetitions, was very iation The places for worshi+p are generally strongly and, though plainly, handso with the best rules of architecture
We cannot but observe a very striking flatness or insipidity of character pervading the population, which is not perhaps to be attributed to bad times, but to various other causes: I ae portion bear expatriation with a sort of --America is not yet their home,--they talk little of it, but much of Europe
The United States is a theatre on which are met all nations of Europe, each at present attached to the custo {28} only in the support of religious and political liberty: tieneous habits into a national character, which many other causes, besides those now enumerated, may at present unite to oppose: the effect is an evident want of energy, of heart and soul in every thing ani the celebration of the anniversary of their Liberty,--such a festival ht well be expected to call forth every spark of enthusiaslistened with joy or ani to a funeral; the others conte could dispel the illusion but the gay clothes of the feeneral bore a strong contrast
Notwithstanding these unfavourable iratified;--it was the assembly of a people to commemorate the epoch of their liberty, and _ished_ to discover an elevation of character deserving of the blessing, and to hail them as brothers
_July 6th_ Took leave of New York, of which city, perhaps Ibeen published before By steae ere conveyed {29} to Bordentown, a beautiful elevated situation, co most extensive viehere Joseph Buonaparte at present resides[8] He lives quietly and hospitably, and, by accost them undisturbed:--on his arrival he received a mark of attention as uncommon as it was unexpected; a mob at Philadelphia collected to see and welcome him; a compliment heit ht be to seize and deliver hith prevailed upon to shew his He is fond of shooting and finds plenty of sport: in the widely spread low grounds covered with brush wood, the Wood-cock and Snipe abound; and the Partridge or Quail is plentiful in the high country At a little distance froe of a precipitous cliff, and surrounded by wood, for retreat, stands his house[9]