Part 5 (1/2)
The next garden we visited was that of the late M. Jean Veanhal, which, during his time, was much celebrated for rare and good plants. Although there was but a small piece of ground in this garden, yet it contained a good collection, and several very good hothouses, in which were cultivated pine-apples and other tropical plants, which were in a very flouris.h.i.+ng state, and the whole neatly kept.
We next proceeded to M. Moen's nursery ground, which is also but of limited extent, but contains a number of good _Magnolias_, _Azaleas_, and other hardy plants, as well as many good greenhouse species. In this nursery there is a fine collection of _Camellias_. M. Moen informed me he had about two hundred seedling varieties and species. I saw here a fine specimen of the _Camellia reticulata_, about five feet high; M.
Moen valued this plant at sixty guineas. There are some pretty good greenhouses in this nursery, also a good collection of pears that were in full bearing, and producing fine crops.
We proceeded next to the seat of M. Caters De-wolfe, which is several miles from Antwerp; the grounds attached to this residence are prettily laid out, particularly a sheet of water, which is amongst the best I have seen; it is formed so as to produce a picturesque effect from several points of view. At a contracted part of it a wooden bridge is constructed across, springing on both sides on elevated well-formed artificial pieces of rockwork. In the pleasure ground are three very pretty curvilinear iron-bar hothouses, erected by Baily, of London, and devoted to the growth of exotic plants and pine-apples, which evidently fully answered in that climate their intended purpose. Here is also a good kitchen garden, with numerous low houses and pits for the growth of the pine, vine and peach, as well as one devoted to orchideous plants, a collection of which was just then forming. The pines and exotic plants in this establishment were all in a very flouris.h.i.+ng state, and the gardens in pretty fair keeping.
We next proceeded to the seat of Le Chevalier Parthon Divan, whom I found devotedly attached to horticultural pursuits. The grounds attached to his chateau are very prettily formed, and are situated about four English miles from Antwerp. This gentleman pointed out to me the _Rhododendron ferrugineum_, with white flowers, which I believe is hardly to be met with in any other collection. He has many good and rare species of greenhouse plants. I saw from five to seven species of _Scotia_, also a fine specimen of the _Scotia angustata_; a collection of _Orchideae_ is also cultivated here; and he has lately introduced many new and curious species of this tribe of plants, as well as some new _Cacteae_. The variety of dahlias cultivated here was particularly fine; a very complete arrangement of herbaceous plants growing along the face of a bank in their natural arrangement forms also an interesting feature in these grounds, the exterior of which is bounded by a plantation, in which are formed various beech avenues. This gentleman disposes of his duplicate plants to any one who will purchase them, but did not seem inclined to make any exchanges.
We next visited the gardens of Madame Smetz, which are situated about four miles from the last place. These grounds are celebrated for their extent of hot houses and other garden ornaments, which may justly ent.i.tle them to be considered as presenting a greater variety of picturesque objects than any garden in Belgium. There is a very good greenhouse, with a pretty fair collection of plants in very neat order, and a corresponding house for the growth of stove plants. I here observed the _Panda.n.u.s odoratissimus_, fifteen feet high, with four large branches diverging from it. A large orangery, that runs parallel to the north ends of the stove and greenhouse, forms a centre betwixt the two latter buildings, that appear like two projecting wings to the orange-house; there are also several low houses and pits for pines, vines, and peaches. The pines in these gardens were amongst the best grown that I had previously met with on the continent. I observed a plant with seven fruits on it all branching from the top of a single stem. There were also some very fine dwarf c.o.c.ks...o...b.. growing in a pit.
The superb Chinese tower is more deserving of notice than anything of the kind that I have yet seen, being of a considerable height, from sixty to eighty feet I should imagine from its appearance, with a handsome staircase leading to the top, from whence there is a fine prospect of these extensive grounds, which are curiously laid out; in this Chinese building a couple of handsomely fitted up rooms are occasionally used for taking tea or coffee.
There are numerous walks leading through various parts of the grounds to secluded spots, where we come unexpectedly on groups of figures in stone, such, for instance, as a group of boys at play, figures of old men, and groups of sheep grazing in the grounds, which are very naturally executed, and at a short distance formed a very good deception; there are also numerous marble busts and pieces of sculpture.
A sheet of water, with rock-work and a wooden bridge, appear prominent objects from the Chinese temple. Opposite to the south and north sides of the mansion are curiously clipped box hedges, with pyramidal formed bushes on their top; the intervening s.p.a.ces being clipped into irregular figures, presenting a curious appearance. A rock bridge, over the narrow part of a sheet of water, is deserving of notice; but the wooden bridges here and elsewhere in Belgium are made more for the intention of permitting s.h.i.+ps to pa.s.s under them, than for the ease of the visitors in walking over them. I also observed several painted arbours and recesses in different parts of the grounds, and one of the finest specimens of the purple beech that I have ever seen, which is a truly magnificent tree. The kitchen cropping, such as cabbages, asparagus, &c., being carried close up to the house, is in very bad taste; these vegetables all appearing in view from the princ.i.p.al windows do not harmonize with the ornamented ground, which, in such an extensive piece, might easily be cultivated in a much more appropriate spot.
Oct. 2nd. Left Antwerp at six o'clock a.m., pa.s.sing through a beautiful fertile country, which abounds in vegetable and other green crops; we arrived at Malines about eight o'clock; it contains about twenty thousand inhabitants, and has some pretty churches, and an ancient cathedral. The rail-road from Brussels to Malines had been completed for some time, and was expected to be finished as far as Antwerp by the end of another month, and to proceed from hence to Paris. At Malines I quitted my tedious mode of conveyance for the rail road--a much more pleasant and expeditious mode of travelling. We were about forty minutes going by it the distance of twelve English miles; a heavy train of carriages and a strong wind right ahead, prevented our accomplis.h.i.+ng the distance in the usual time, which was said in general to occupy the s.p.a.ce of from twenty to thirty minutes.
On my arrival at Brussells I proceeded to the establishment of M. J. F.
Vandermaelen, which consists of an extensive collection of geographical books, minerals, birds, insects, and plants, from various climates, which this gentleman offers for mutual exchanges, with the view of furthering the interests of science and natural history.
The grounds attached to it are rather confined, but prettily varied, with water, and rising and undulating ground. There are also several very good hothouses, and a choice collection of plants. M.
Vandermaelen's catalogue enumerates nearly two hundred and forty sorts of _Camellias_ and above four hundred and fifty sorts of _Pelargoniums_. I here observed a specimen of the _Cactus senilis_, about two feet in height; several other very fine and curious species were likewise to be seen here. M. Vandermaelen has also sent out a collector in search of _Cacteae_ and other orchideous plants.
I next proceeded to the Brussells Botanic Garden, which contains the most ornamental range of hothouses that I have seen, and some n.o.ble specimens of palms. The _Caryota urens_ about forty-five feet high, its girth at eighteen inches from the ground, four feet. The _Arenga saccharifera_ and the _Carica Papaya_ both forty feet in height. The _Elate sylvestris_ had also reached to the gla.s.s. The _Latania borbonia_, about eighteen feet high, the fronds spreading in the like proportion. The _Panda.n.u.s odoratissimus_, a fine specimen, and various other species equally luxuriant. This magnificent range of plant houses are all heated with steam, and the sash bars formed of wrought iron;--the effect of it from the Boulevards is really grand. The princ.i.p.al range being situated on a terrace, with several fountains and broad flights of steps in front of it, has a very imposing appearance; on a lower level in front of these houses and terrace, are two ranges constructed with curvilinear iron bars, which are occupied by pine-apple plants and other dwarf tropical species. Opposite to the hothouses are the herbaceous grounds, which are laid out in a circular form, divided in small divisions, for the Linnean arrangement of the hardy perennial plants, each cla.s.s forming a separate piece of ground radiating from the centre. This garden consists of a fine irregular piece of ground, and is much varied in its surface, having five different levels, and is placed in a fine situation; but I regretted to see the ground occupied by a quant.i.ty of common forest trees and shrubs, and but little of novelty or good plants in it: the common sorts were grown princ.i.p.ally for sale, and for the support of the garden, which practice I understood was extensively adopted in this establishment. The hothouse and greenhouse species were ticketed with the price required for the different plants.
I next called on Mr. Bigwood, who kindly procured me a sight of the Prince of Orange's splendid residence, which is justly considered one of the finest finished palaces in Europe, with most beautiful polished oak floors, and the walls of several of the apartments inlaid with marble: in one of the rooms that belonged to the princess is a table of Siberian lapis lazuli, valued at fifty thousand pounds. The chairs, tables, paintings, and other superb furniture in the interior of this palace, with its magnificent staircase, are beyond my powers of description.
The park at Brussells is situated in front of the king's palace, and is said to contain about fourteen acres of ground, which are laid out as a public promenade for the inhabitants, with several avenues, and various groups of sculpture, which are considered of superior execution, especially the statues of Alexander the Great, and Cleopatra, and the groups of Diana, Apollo, Narcissus, and Venus. In the avenue fronting the king's palace are statues of the twelve Roman emperors, and a fountain, which throws the water from twelve to fifteen feet high.
I proceeded next to Louvain. The entrance to Brussells from the Louvain gate is very fine, and commands extensive views of the adjacent country, as well as a part of the town. The small villas leading from this entrance towards Louvain are handsomely ornamented with tastefully planted gardens; the road, winding along through a fine agricultural country, is more varied than in the Antwerp district; the soil consisting of a deep red loam, produces abundantly red clover, rape, and other green crops.
October 3rd. The town of Louvain is situated on the river Dyle, which runs through it. The grand appearance of the Stadt-huis, or now police-office, is very imposing; the numerous carved figures and spires that adorn the front are beautiful specimens of workmans.h.i.+p: in the interior a large apartment is occupied as a picture gallery, in which are deposited some very fine old paintings: the wainscot ceilings of some of the rooms are also well worthy of notice.
There are likewise several churches in this town, which are richly ornamented with paintings and other costly decorations, such as marble columns.
The botanic garden adjoins the town, and contains from two to three acres of ground; the s.p.a.ce in front of the range of hot houses is occupied with a collection of hardy perennial plants, and the exterior of the garden planted by trees and shrubs. The range of plant houses consists of a long dark-roofed green house, with a circular stove projecting in front of it at each end, which has a very good effect; these stoves are constructed with iron bars, and appeared to stand remarkably well; in one of them was a very fine specimen of the _Latania rubra_, which was in great luxuriance; the _Maxillaria Harrissonia_, was quite covered with large flowers. The _Cactus Macrocanthus_, was here four feet in circ.u.mference; several other species were also very fine; in short, the whole collection were in a healthy and flouris.h.i.+ng state.
I found M. Donkelar, the gardener, to be a very intelligent young man, devotedly attached to his business.
I next proceeded to see the collection of fruits and trees at professor Van Mons, where I was shewn a large a.s.sortment of pears, which the professor had raised from seed, also many sorts of apples, and several good seedling grapes and peaches. The professor has long been distinguished for his attachment to horticultural pursuits; but I unfortunately did not find him at home; he has, however, forwarded to me, since my return home, his ”Arbres Fruitiers,” which describes many of the fruits cultivated in Belgium. I was much gratified by the fine collection of pears in the fruit room, and the fine healthy trees in the professor's gardens, which are well stocked with seedlings, as well as others in a bearing state.
I next proceeded to the duke d'Aremberg's, which is situated at a short distance from Louvain, having a letter of introduction from Sir R.
Adair, to his highness, whom I found particularly attached to botany and horticultural pursuits. The kitchen garden here is very extensive, and large quant.i.ties of vegetables are cultivated; several pits for the growth of the pine and peach were also in this establishment; but the collection of choice pears pleased me more than any I had previously seen, and certainly produced very fine fruit; the following sorts were pointed out to me as the best deserving of cultivation, which were then in the fruit room.
Beurre Wirtemberg Grande Bretagne Sucre-Vert Beurre rance Beey vaet Beurre bosque Bergamotte de la Penticote Beurre d'Hiver Double d'Automne Comperete Kanneck Pa.s.se Colmar Bezyda Chaumontelle Fondante De Charnusee Colmar Jaminette Beurre d'Angleterre Bergamotte de paques St. Germain Roi de Louvain Beurre d'Aremberg Beurre de yelle St. Bernard
and many other sorts, and fine collections of apples which were also extensively grown here. I also observed a very fine collection of seedling dahlias, many of which were very choice flowers, and formed a gay appearance in the kitchen garden borders in this season. His highness pointed out to me a n.o.ble specimen of the _Plata.n.u.s accidentalis_, which measured, at four feet from the ground, thirteen feet in circ.u.mference, and its branches spreading over a s.p.a.ce of ground twenty two yards in diameter; this was a beautiful grown tree, and appeared in great luxuriance.
The grounds attached to this ancient mansion are very extensive, and have several fine straight avenue walks, leading in various directions, one of which is formed by the purple beech planted on each side of the walk for a considerable distance; but this being a very wet forenoon, I was unable to see the grounds to advantage. They are a little varied as we approach the house, and a small stream of water enlivened the scenery: they appeared to me, however, of much less extent than his highness's grounds and park at Enghien, where his splendid range of plant-houses and extensive collection of plants are fixed and deposited.