Part 9 (2/2)

(_a_) Silk Brocade Dress. 1740-60.

(_b_) Silk Brocade Sack-back Dress. 1755-75.

_Pattern, see p. 334._ (_c_) Dress of Striped Material. 1775-85.

_Pattern, see p. 335._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 71.--Boot shapes. Charles I to 1700.

NOS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. Charles I.

NOS. 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Charles II.

NOS. 16, 17, 18. James II and William and Mary.]

Shoes became very square at the toes, or blocked as in Fig. 70, No. 6.

The fronts were set with large rosettes of silk and silver or gold lace, the heels varied much in height, that mostly favoured being a large, low heel. A quaint fas.h.i.+on of shoe combined with a clog sole was an interesting shape (see ill.u.s.tration of clogs, p. 106). Fairly tight top-boots, coming well above the knee, were often turned down. Other boots with large bell-tops, turned over or pushed down, were covered or filled with a lace or bell-shaped stocking-top. A sash was worn round the waist or across the body over the left shoulder (the length and width of these is given in the description of patterns, p. 279). A broad belt, or sword-hanger, came across the right shoulder. Gloves were beautifully embroidered in gold, pearls, or coloured silks, the gauntlets being from five to eight inches deep.

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. THE COMMONWEALTH. MALE AND FEMALE.

The same shapes apply to costume during the Commonwealth, though a sterner effect was given by the choice of plain decoration and less colour. A small or a large plain collar, and the disappearance of slas.h.i.+ngs on the coat, and a longer skirt became noticeable. A very high tapered hat, with stiff circular brim, was worn by the Puritans, and little, close, black hoods were much favoured. A general reaction from gay extravagance set in.

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES II.

FEMALE.

The hair was set out from the head on combs with falling ringlets, and several small flat ringlets were placed on the forehead. The back of the hair was plaited into a knot, and pearl strings were interlaced, or ribbon loops caught in at either side. Toward 1680 the hair was worn tightly curled and fulled out into a round shape with a curl or two falling on the front of the shoulders; small feathers or long feathers were also worn. Hats were of a similar shape to those of the last reign, with a stiffer and narrower curved brim; but the chief head-dress was a large hood faced with another material, which latter was tied under the chin; these mostly formed part of a cape also.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 72.--Period 1650-1685.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XVII.--

(_a_) Silk Suit. 1765-80.

(_b_) Quilted Dress. 1700-25.

(_c_) Silk-embroidered Suit. 1765-80.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 73.

1, 2, 3, 4.--Back and Front of two Corset Bodices. Period Charles II.

5, 6.--Two Corsets. Period Charles II.

7, 8.--Two Bodice types. Period Charles I.]

The bodice again became much longer and of a pointed shape, but many corset bodices took a round point, and a round neck coming well off the shoulders became general, usually decorated with a plain wide band of lace. Ruffs and collars were no longer seen amongst the upper cla.s.ses. Very full sleeves and large opened sleeves were tied or clasped over full lawn ones, and at times separated from the shoulders, being caught effectively with jewels. Groups of ribbons were placed at the breast or point of the bodice, and the ends of sleeves or shoulders, besides at the fronts of the outer skirt when divided, also in the gathering of the lawn sleeves. Stomachers were not much worn, but a drape of soft silk was caught here and there round the neck of bodice, and large draperies were clasped to the shoulders. Loose robes and robes shaped to the figure, opening down the front from the neck even to the waist, with a clasp or several holding them together; these were worn over a quilted linen corset laced in front as in the ill.u.s.tration, but the bodice was often formed on a corset. Long gloves and mittens were in use, and small m.u.f.fs with ribbon loops on the front were carried.

High-heeled shoes with very long square toes were affected in imitation of the male shoe, but most ladies now began to wear a very pointed shoe.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 74.--Sleeve treatments. Period Charles II.]

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES II.

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