Part 9 (1/2)

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES I. FEMALE.

The hair was now allowed to fall in ringlets round the back and sides, with a few flat curls on the brow, and a bow and pearls were caught in at the sides. Short feathers may also be noted in use. A plait was often coiled at the back after 1630.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XV.--

(_a_) White Cloth Coat. 1775-90.

(_b_) Silk Dress. 1740-60.

(_c_) Embroidered Velvet Coat. 1755-75.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 62.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 63.

Collar and Bodice types. Period Charles I.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 64.

Collar and Bodice types. Period Charles I to 1660.]

In the early part of this reign the ladies were wearing the long corset-bodice, with a richly decorated stomacher which curved outwards to set on the very full skirts; this often finished with a curved or foliated shape at the point. Square starched collars, rounded at the back, sometimes set up at the back of the neck or flat on the shoulder, and ruffs were still seen round the neck with collars as well, but they were seldom met with after 1635. A plainer, deep collar, flat, round, or =V=-shaped at the back, coming well over the shoulders, was caught together by a bow or ornament in front. About 1630 shorter waisted bodices came in, with full, loose sleeves set in epaulets: the neck shape was rounded or square. The bodices were often slashed, and the full sleeves, cut into bands, were sometimes gathered by cross bands from one to three times. Full plain sleeves, opened in the front seam, were also clasped at the elbow in a like manner. Outer short sleeves became a feature, opening in the front, showing the full under one or a tight one; the waist became very short and its tabs larger. A waistband fastened in the stomacher with a bow either side and bows with long gold tags decorated the waist as in the male jerkin. The skirt decorated by a band of ornament down the front was often tied upon the corset-bodice, the front point being left outside. Shoes of the same shape as the male ill.u.s.trations, with very square toes, were frequent, but an oval toe, rather pointed, is seen in many pictures, with the large lace rosettes in front. m.u.f.fs are first noticed in these days, though they were seen much earlier on the Continent.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 65.--Period 1625-1660.]

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES I. MALE.

The hair was worn loose to the shoulders, and a small plait was sometimes arranged on the left side, brought to the front of shoulder.

The beard was trimmed to a pointed shape, and smarter curled moustaches were fas.h.i.+onable. Hats were still high in the crown, but rather lower than with James I; the large brims were turned about in various curves, and feathers were worn falling over the brims to the side or back.

The jerkin was high in the collar, supporting a large, square, turn-down collar edged with pointed lace to the shoulders, or a small, plain, turn-over collar; ruffs are very rarely seen after 1630.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 66.--Charles I.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 67.--Period 1625-1660.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 68.--Period 1625-1660.]

A rather short waist grew shorter during this reign, with much larger tabs, or large flaps laced to the body, forming a series of bows with long gilt tags round the waist. The body is usually decorated with long slashes from the shoulders to the breast, or the full length, and a long slashed opening is often seen in the back (presumably to give more play to the sword-thrust). The sleeve is also treated in the same way to the elbow or waist. All sleeves start from a stiff epaulet. Breeches are both very full and fairly tight, the latter edged with a purfling of silk or gold lace as well as the sides, the former shape tied either above or below the knee with a large silk bow with falling ends. They were held up by a number of hooks, fastening to a small flap with eyelets, round the inside of the doublet (see pattern 11, p. 295), and were b.u.t.toned down the front, the b.u.t.tons being half hidden in a pleat.

The pockets were placed vertically in the front of the thigh, and were frequently of a decorative character.

A short or long circular cloak was worn, and a coat-cloak with opened sleeves is an interesting garment. These coverings were hung in various ways from the shoulders by methods of tying the cords across the body.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 69.--Period 1625-1660.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 70.--Shoe shapes. Charles I to 1700.

NOS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 23. Charles I.

NOS. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 25. Charles II.

NOS. 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 26, 27, 28. James II and William and Mary.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XVI.--