Part 17 (2/2)

Variations Instead of the sweet-and-sour mustard sauce, try serving the liver with Brown Bay b.u.t.ter sauce (page 224). This recipe also works well with veal scaloppine. Don't bother soaking the veal in milk before sauteing it.

Vinegared Grapes These grapes make a great cold complement to rich meats such as liver or venison, and are an unusual foil for a rich cheese like Stilton or Gorgonzola. They can easily fill the gap when you don't want to make a sauce or need a cold condiment for a picnic. Leftovers will keep for a week if refrigerated. cold complement to rich meats such as liver or venison, and are an unusual foil for a rich cheese like Stilton or Gorgonzola. They can easily fill the gap when you don't want to make a sauce or need a cold condiment for a picnic. Leftovers will keep for a week if refrigerated.

MAKES 2 CUPS.

cup high-quality white wine vinegar cup sugar teaspoon mustard seeds 1 bay leaf teaspoon crushed coriander seeds teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 shallot, minced 2 cups red grapes, cut in half and seeds removed 1. Combine all the ingredients except the grapes in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Combine all the ingredients except the grapes in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes.

2. Add the grapes and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Chill, then serve as a relish. Add the grapes and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Chill, then serve as a relish.

Fried Rabbit in Hazelnut Crumbs with Peaches Serve this special-occasion dish to guests who've never tried rabbit. The aroma of its spectacular flavors from the Italian Riviera-lemon zest, basil, peaches, and ginger-and golden hazelnut crust is almost impossible to resist. Despite the usual comparison, rabbit has a stronger, more complex taste than chicken, although it's still quite mild. The flesh is leaner than that of chicken, which makes it easy to overcook when sauteed, but the hazelnut crust in this preparation keeps the meat moist. guests who've never tried rabbit. The aroma of its spectacular flavors from the Italian Riviera-lemon zest, basil, peaches, and ginger-and golden hazelnut crust is almost impossible to resist. Despite the usual comparison, rabbit has a stronger, more complex taste than chicken, although it's still quite mild. The flesh is leaner than that of chicken, which makes it easy to overcook when sauteed, but the hazelnut crust in this preparation keeps the meat moist.

This dish works perfectly well without a sauce, but I had to include one. A sauce made with rabbit parts is such a rare treat that I always take the extra step, making it a day ahead if necessary. Fresh rabbit is almost always sold packed in Cryovac in this country. If there's a butcher on hand, he may be willing to cut the rabbit in pieces for you as described in Step 1, but if not I've included instructions for cutting it up.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 rabbits (about 3 pounds each)

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest cup chopped fresh basil 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger 6 tablespoons vegetable oil About cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dredging 1 extra-large egg cup dry bread crumbs cup finely chopped lightly toasted hazelnuts Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 small ripe peaches 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil cup balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar Riesling Sauce (recipe follows; optional) DO AHEAD: Marinate the rabbit for 12 hours. The peaches can be prepared a day ahead and reheated before serving (as can the sauce, if you decide to make it). The legs can be breaded 3 hours in advance. Marinate the rabbit for 12 hours. The peaches can be prepared a day ahead and reheated before serving (as can the sauce, if you decide to make it). The legs can be breaded 3 hours in advance.

1. Have your butcher cut each rabbit into the following pieces: 2 forelegs, 2 back legs, 2 loins trimmed of all silver skin, and the carca.s.s. If you have to do it yourself, think of the process as similar to removing the leg/thigh pieces and wings from a chicken. In addition, you need to remove and trim the loins. The loins are the two thick strips of meat that run along the backbone. A sharp boning knife with its thin blade makes the task easier than using the wide blade of a chef's knife. Be sure to remove all the silver skin from the loins. Set the forelegs and carca.s.ses aside if you're going to make the sauce. Have your butcher cut each rabbit into the following pieces: 2 forelegs, 2 back legs, 2 loins trimmed of all silver skin, and the carca.s.s. If you have to do it yourself, think of the process as similar to removing the leg/thigh pieces and wings from a chicken. In addition, you need to remove and trim the loins. The loins are the two thick strips of meat that run along the backbone. A sharp boning knife with its thin blade makes the task easier than using the wide blade of a chef's knife. Be sure to remove all the silver skin from the loins. Set the forelegs and carca.s.ses aside if you're going to make the sauce.

2. Combine the lemon zest, basil, ginger, and 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a bowl large enough to comfortably accommodate the rabbit pieces. Toss the rabbit loins and back legs in the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 12 hours. Combine the lemon zest, basil, ginger, and 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a bowl large enough to comfortably accommodate the rabbit pieces. Toss the rabbit loins and back legs in the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 12 hours.

3. Remove the rabbit from the refrigerator. Put the flour in a medium bowl. Beat the egg with 1 teaspoon water in another medium bowl. Combine the bread crumbs and chopped hazelnuts in a large bowl. Season the back legs with salt and pepper and toss them in flour. Dip the legs in the egg and coat completely. Roll in the nut and crumb mixture. Remove the rabbit from the refrigerator. Put the flour in a medium bowl. Beat the egg with 1 teaspoon water in another medium bowl. Combine the bread crumbs and chopped hazelnuts in a large bowl. Season the back legs with salt and pepper and toss them in flour. Dip the legs in the egg and coat completely. Roll in the nut and crumb mixture.

4. Heat 4 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the back legs and cook on both sides until done, 10 to 15 minutes per side. The trick here is to cook the legs slowly so the crumb crust and rabbit meat finish more or less at the same time. At a higher temperature, you risk finis.h.i.+ng the crust when the rabbit meat is still quite rare. The crust should be a deep golden brown. Transfer the legs to a plate. Season the loins with salt and pepper (the loins do not have a crumb coating), sear on both sides, 5 to 8 minutes, and then cook to desired doneness. Heat 4 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the back legs and cook on both sides until done, 10 to 15 minutes per side. The trick here is to cook the legs slowly so the crumb crust and rabbit meat finish more or less at the same time. At a higher temperature, you risk finis.h.i.+ng the crust when the rabbit meat is still quite rare. The crust should be a deep golden brown. Transfer the legs to a plate. Season the loins with salt and pepper (the loins do not have a crumb coating), sear on both sides, 5 to 8 minutes, and then cook to desired doneness.

5. Meanwhile, as soon as you get the rabbit legs into the pan, start the peaches. Split the peaches and remove the pits. Heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the peaches, skin side down, and cook until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add teaspoon pepper, the balsamic vinegar, and sugar. Flip and cook on the second side until browned, about another 4 minutes, then remove from the heat. If you're not going to use them immediately, keep them warm in a low oven (200F) until ready to serve. Meanwhile, as soon as you get the rabbit legs into the pan, start the peaches. Split the peaches and remove the pits. Heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the peaches, skin side down, and cook until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add teaspoon pepper, the balsamic vinegar, and sugar. Flip and cook on the second side until browned, about another 4 minutes, then remove from the heat. If you're not going to use them immediately, keep them warm in a low oven (200F) until ready to serve.

6. To serve, slice the loins against the grain into diagonal pieces inch thick. Arrange 2 peach halves, a leg, and a sliced loin on each plate. Drizzle with the sauce, if using, and serve immediately. To serve, slice the loins against the grain into diagonal pieces inch thick. Arrange 2 peach halves, a leg, and a sliced loin on each plate. Drizzle with the sauce, if using, and serve immediately.

Riesling Sauce Although the rabbit can be served without a sauce, I'm the sort of obsessive cook who can't bear to discard perfectly good rabbit parts-not when I know they can be turned into a great sauce. Put the main pieces of the rabbit in the marinade, reserving the forelegs and carca.s.ses for the sauce. Either make the sauce then and refrigerate it, or wait to make it the next day. without a sauce, I'm the sort of obsessive cook who can't bear to discard perfectly good rabbit parts-not when I know they can be turned into a great sauce. Put the main pieces of the rabbit in the marinade, reserving the forelegs and carca.s.ses for the sauce. Either make the sauce then and refrigerate it, or wait to make it the next day.

MAKES ABOUT CUP.

2 rabbit forelegs 2 rabbit carca.s.ses Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 shallots, thinly sliced celery stalk, chopped medium carrot, peeled and chopped 1 cup Riesling (or 1 cup dry white wine in which you've dissolved 1 tablespoon honey) 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 8 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 4 cups (see page 32) 1. Season the forelegs and carca.s.ses with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Sear the carca.s.ses and forelegs. Transfer to a plate. Season the forelegs and carca.s.ses with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Sear the carca.s.ses and forelegs. Transfer to a plate.

2. Add the shallots, celery, and carrots to the pan and cook until they just begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Return the rabbit pieces to the pan. Add the wine and continue cooking until it reduces to a glaze, about 20 minutes. Add the shallots, celery, and carrots to the pan and cook until they just begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Return the rabbit pieces to the pan. Add the wine and continue cooking until it reduces to a glaze, about 20 minutes.

3. Add the chicken stock and reduce it until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, to about cup, about 45 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat and strain it. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate if using it the next day, then reheat before serving; or keep it warm if serving soon. Add the chicken stock and reduce it until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, to about cup, about 45 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat and strain it. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate if using it the next day, then reheat before serving; or keep it warm if serving soon.

Sweet-and-Sour Braised Rabbit with Chocolate The use of chocolate in savory cooking almost always calls to mind Mexican savory cooking almost always calls to mind Mexican mole mole, but southern Italians have also used chocolate and spicy chiles to flavor meat dishes. Chocolate thickens and enriches the sauce without sweetening it. My recipe combines the best of the New World-chocolate and chile pepper flakes-with the Old-juniper berries and pancetta. Serve with wide noodles, spaetzle, or rice.

When purchasing the rabbits, ask your butcher to cut each of them into 6 pieces, as described in Step 1. The rabbit is wonderful the day it's made, but if you refrigerate the rabbit pieces in the braising liquid for a day before serving, the meat will absorb more of the flavor of the chocolate and chile. Reheat, covered, on top of the stove over low heat.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 rabbits (about 3 pounds each) teaspoon hot red pepper flakes teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon mace About cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dredging Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup vegetable oil, plus more if needed pound thickly sliced pancetta, chopped into -inch dice 1 small onion, cut into -inch dice 12 shallots, peeled 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 teaspoon tomato paste 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 5 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup Marsala cup red wine vinegar, or more to taste tablespoon crushed fennel seeds tablespoon crushed juniper berries teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 bay leaf 1 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped 1. You can ask the butcher to cut up the rabbits for you when you purchase them; otherwise, it's no more difficult than cutting up a chicken. Remove the front and rear legs of one of the rabbits where the joints meet the body. A thin-bladed boning knife is the ideal tool for this task, but you can use just about any sharp knife. Remove the neck and discard, or use for stock. Using a cleaver or heavy chef's knife, cut the body in half crosswise. You will now have 6 pieces-2 hind legs, 2 forelegs, and 2 halves of the body. Repeat with the remaining rabbit. You can ask the butcher to cut up the rabbits for you when you purchase them; otherwise, it's no more difficult than cutting up a chicken. Remove the front and rear legs of one of the rabbits where the joints meet the body. A thin-bladed boning knife is the ideal tool for this task, but you can use just about any sharp knife. Remove the neck and discard, or use for stock. Using a cleaver or heavy chef's knife, cut the body in half crosswise. You will now have 6 pieces-2 hind legs, 2 forelegs, and 2 halves of the body. Repeat with the remaining rabbit.

2. Combine the red pepper flakes, cinnamon, allspice, mace, and flour in a large bowl. Sprinkle the rabbit pieces liberally with salt and pepper, then toss them in the seasoned flour. Heat 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat and brown the rabbit pieces on all sides. You will have to do this in a couple of batches-don't crowd the pan. Place the browned rabbit in a large Dutch oven or cast-iron ca.s.serole. If the saute pan is covered with blackened bits of flour, wipe it out and add another few tablespoons of vegetable oil. Combine the red pepper flakes, cinnamon, allspice, mace, and flour in a large bowl. Sprinkle the rabbit pieces liberally with salt and pepper, then toss them in the seasoned flour. Heat 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat and brown the rabbit pieces on all sides. You will have to do this in a couple of batches-don't crowd the pan. Place the browned rabbit in a large Dutch oven or cast-iron ca.s.serole. If the saute pan is covered with blackened bits of flour, wipe it out and add another few tablespoons of vegetable oil.

3. Add the pancetta to the saute pan and cook over medium heat until the fat turns translucent and starts to render, about 1 minutes. Add the onion, shallots, and garlic and stir them about until they start to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 more minute. Transfer the vegetables to the pot with the rabbit. Add the pancetta to the saute pan and cook over medium heat until the fat turns translucent and starts to render, about 1 minutes. Add the onion, shallots, and garlic and stir them about until they start to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 1 more minute. Transfer the vegetables to the pot with the rabbit.

4. Deglaze the saute pan with the chicken stock: bring the stock to a boil, sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan with a spoon to dissolve any crispy bits in the hot liquid. Pour over the rabbit. Deglaze the saute pan with the chicken stock: bring the stock to a boil, sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan with a spoon to dissolve any crispy bits in the hot liquid. Pour over the rabbit.

5. Melt the sugar in a nonreactive small saucepan over medium heat. Watch the sugar closely, and remove it from the heat as soon as it caramelizes. Stir in the Marsala and 2 tablespoons of the red wine vinegar in a slow stream (if you add the wine too fast, it will splatter). As soon as the liquid is blended with the caramelized sugar, pour the mixture into the pot with the rabbit. Melt the sugar in a nonreactive small saucepan over medium heat. Watch the sugar closely, and remove it from the heat as soon as it caramelizes. Stir in the Marsala and 2 tablespoons of the red wine vinegar in a slow stream (if you add the wine too fast, it will splatter). As soon as the liquid is blended with the caramelized sugar, pour the mixture into the pot with the rabbit.

6. Add the fennel seeds, juniper berries, cayenne pepper, and bay leaf to the pot and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until the rabbit is tender but not falling off the bone, about 30 minutes. Add the fennel seeds, juniper berries, cayenne pepper, and bay leaf to the pot and bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until the rabbit is tender but not falling off the bone, about 30 minutes.

7. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200F. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200F.

8. Transfer the rabbit to a heatproof platter and place in the oven. Reduce the braising liquid over high heat until it's thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Lower the heat to medium, add the chocolate and the remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar, and stir until the chocolate melts completely. Taste-the flavor should be a balance of sweet and sour. Add more vinegar if necessary. Discard the bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the rabbit to a heatproof platter and place in the oven. Reduce the braising liquid over high heat until it's thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Lower the heat to medium, add the chocolate and the remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar, and stir until the chocolate melts completely. Taste-the flavor should be a balance of sweet and sour. Add more vinegar if necessary. Discard the bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper.

9. Ladle a light coating of sauce over the rabbit. Present the platter at the table and offer the remaining sauce on the side. Ladle a light coating of sauce over the rabbit. Present the platter at the table and offer the remaining sauce on the side.

Peppered Venison with Sherry Sauce and Dried Fruit Chutney Venison is a great argument for keeping things simple. Few cooked meats are as capable of making as striking a visual impression as three or four slices of unadorned venison on a plate. Venison's low fat content almost guarantees that it is prepared only rare or medium-rare, which preserves its deep port-like color. Even without its rich, meatier-than-meat flavor, venison's color would earn it a billing on many menus. This recipe involves a simple oil-based marinade that helps to form a peppery crust when the venison is cooked. Pedro Jimenez, a fine, slightly sweet sherry, long a European tradition in sauces for game meats, adds a fruity note to the sauce. The Dried Fruit Chutney elaborates on this theme and adds a lovely visual component to the dish. for keeping things simple. Few cooked meats are as capable of making as striking a visual impression as three or four slices of unadorned venison on a plate. Venison's low fat content almost guarantees that it is prepared only rare or medium-rare, which preserves its deep port-like color. Even without its rich, meatier-than-meat flavor, venison's color would earn it a billing on many menus. This recipe involves a simple oil-based marinade that helps to form a peppery crust when the venison is cooked. Pedro Jimenez, a fine, slightly sweet sherry, long a European tradition in sauces for game meats, adds a fruity note to the sauce. The Dried Fruit Chutney elaborates on this theme and adds a lovely visual component to the dish.

Cooked venison will keep for several days, but it's so lean that a quick sear in a saute pan is as much as I dare reheat it for fear of overcooking it. I'm quite content to eat leftover venison cold, accompanied by Herbal Mayonnaise (page 14) or some of the cold chutney.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

SVENISON.

Four 6-ounce venison steaks from the leg or loin 2 tablespoons cracked black pepper 1 shallot, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage cup vegetable oil SHERRY SAUCE.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 shallots, finely chopped teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 2 juniper berries, crushed 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage cup Pedro Jimenez or other high-quality sweet sherry 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 8 cups high-quality low-sodium canned chicken broth, reduced to 4 cups (see page 32)

teaspoon sherry vinegar 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Dried Fruit Chutney (recipe follows; optional) DO AHEAD: Marinate the venison for 12 hours. The Dried Fruit Chutney can be prepared up to 10 days in advance. Marinate the venison for 12 hours. The Dried Fruit Chutney can be prepared up to 10 days in advance.

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