Part 17 (1/2)

9. Place a lamb shank, a piece of fennel, and a piece of onion on each plate. Ladle some sauce over all, including the fennel and onion, and serve immediately. Offer the extra sauce on the side. Place a lamb shank, a piece of fennel, and a piece of onion on each plate. Ladle some sauce over all, including the fennel and onion, and serve immediately. Offer the extra sauce on the side.

Grilled Rosemary-Stuffed Lamb Shanks A spectacular variation on this recipe is to braise the shanks and refrigerate them, then grill them a day or two later. The shanks acquire all the rich flavor of braising, with the wonderful addition of a smoky, crusty exterior. The technique can be applied to just about any braised meat that is either still on the bone or in large chunks.

1. Braise the shanks exactly as in the recipe, but save the basil for later. Don't roast the fennel or onion-they'll be grilled too. Braise the shanks exactly as in the recipe, but save the basil for later. Don't roast the fennel or onion-they'll be grilled too.

2. Prepare a medium fire in a grill (see page 265 if you're unfamiliar with how to do this). You should be able to hold your hand near the grilling surface for 4 seconds before you have to pull it away. Prepare a medium fire in a grill (see page 265 if you're unfamiliar with how to do this). You should be able to hold your hand near the grilling surface for 4 seconds before you have to pull it away.

3. While the grill is heating, remove the shanks from their braising juices and pat dry. Reheat the juices, adding the basil. If the braising juice is too thin for a sauce, boil it for a few minutes until it reaches the desired consistency. Set aside. Reheat before serving. While the grill is heating, remove the shanks from their braising juices and pat dry. Reheat the juices, adding the basil. If the braising juice is too thin for a sauce, boil it for a few minutes until it reaches the desired consistency. Set aside. Reheat before serving.

4. Sprinkle the shanks liberally with salt and pepper and brush with oil. Grill on all sides until heated through and lightly charred. Push the shanks to the edge of the grill to keep warm while you grill the vegetables. Sprinkle the shanks liberally with salt and pepper and brush with oil. Grill on all sides until heated through and lightly charred. Push the shanks to the edge of the grill to keep warm while you grill the vegetables.

5. Toss the fennel and onions with 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper (no Pernod in this variation). Grill until lightly charred and tender. It may be necessary to move the vegetables off to the side (off the direct heat of the coals) to cook them through without burning. Toss the fennel and onions with 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper (no Pernod in this variation). Grill until lightly charred and tender. It may be necessary to move the vegetables off to the side (off the direct heat of the coals) to cook them through without burning.

6. To serve, arrange the grilled shanks, fennel, and onions on a large platter. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. Serve immediately. To serve, arrange the grilled shanks, fennel, and onions on a large platter. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. Serve immediately.

Roast Leg of Lamb with Mustard Crumbs Every family has at least one mistaken culinary tradition that becomes enshrined in memory. I know people who only enjoy turkey dry or macaroni and cheese out of a box because that's what they ate at the table of their childhood. I was well into my college years before I discovered that leg of lamb-a favorite holiday preparation of my grandmother-didn't automatically turn gray when roasted. This recipe, which takes its inspiration from a French family cla.s.sic, is a much juicier preparation. A marinade of olives, rosemary, sage, and thyme flavors the meat, while a crumb and Dijon mustard crust helps the leg stay moist. one mistaken culinary tradition that becomes enshrined in memory. I know people who only enjoy turkey dry or macaroni and cheese out of a box because that's what they ate at the table of their childhood. I was well into my college years before I discovered that leg of lamb-a favorite holiday preparation of my grandmother-didn't automatically turn gray when roasted. This recipe, which takes its inspiration from a French family cla.s.sic, is a much juicier preparation. A marinade of olives, rosemary, sage, and thyme flavors the meat, while a crumb and Dijon mustard crust helps the leg stay moist.

Leg of lamb makes great cold leftovers. Accompany it with horseradish, Dijon mustard, hot mango chutney, or Vinegared Grapes (page 288).

MAKES 6 TO 8 ENTReE SERVINGS.

One 6- to 8-pound bone-in leg of lamb MARINADE.

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 shallots, finely chopped cup chopped fresh rosemary cup chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage cup finely chopped pitted Gaeta olives cup extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil CRUMB MIXTURE.

cup Dijon mustard, plus more as necessary 2 cups dry bread crumbs 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper DO AHEAD: Marinate the lamb for 4 hours; longer won't hurt. Marinate the lamb for 4 hours; longer won't hurt.

1. Trim the lamb leg of excess fat and membrane. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Set the lamb in a large nonreactive container and smear it with the marinade. Refrigerate for 4 hours. Trim the lamb leg of excess fat and membrane. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Set the lamb in a large nonreactive container and smear it with the marinade. Refrigerate for 4 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

3. Remove the lamb from the refrigerator and season generously all over with salt and pepper (do not sc.r.a.pe off the marinade). Set the leg on a rack in a roasting pan. Remove the lamb from the refrigerator and season generously all over with salt and pepper (do not sc.r.a.pe off the marinade). Set the leg on a rack in a roasting pan.

4. Roast for 10 minutes at 450F, then reduce the heat to 350F. Roast for 30 minutes, then drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Let the lamb roast for another 30 minutes. Roast for 10 minutes at 450F, then reduce the heat to 350F. Roast for 30 minutes, then drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Let the lamb roast for another 30 minutes.

5. Remove the lamb from the oven. Brush the surface with the mustard. Press the bread crumbs onto the mustard. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Return the lamb to the oven and roast until the bread crumbs are toasty and the meat has reached the desired degree of doneness, about 30 minutes for medium-rate. Bear in mind this is only an approximation: the actual time depends on your oven and the size of the lamb leg. To check, insert an instant-read digital thermometer into the thickest part of the lamb leg, taking care not to let the tip touch the bone. For rare meat, remove the leg from the oven when it reaches 115 to 120F; for medium-rare, 125 to 130F; for medium, 130 to 140F. Although temperatures may seem a little bit low, the lamb will continue to cook after you've removed it from the oven, and the internal temperature will rise another 5 to 10 degrees during the resting period. Remove the lamb from the oven. Brush the surface with the mustard. Press the bread crumbs onto the mustard. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Return the lamb to the oven and roast until the bread crumbs are toasty and the meat has reached the desired degree of doneness, about 30 minutes for medium-rate. Bear in mind this is only an approximation: the actual time depends on your oven and the size of the lamb leg. To check, insert an instant-read digital thermometer into the thickest part of the lamb leg, taking care not to let the tip touch the bone. For rare meat, remove the leg from the oven when it reaches 115 to 120F; for medium-rare, 125 to 130F; for medium, 130 to 140F. Although temperatures may seem a little bit low, the lamb will continue to cook after you've removed it from the oven, and the internal temperature will rise another 5 to 10 degrees during the resting period.

6. Remove the lamb from the oven and let rest for 15 minutes. Remove the lamb from the oven and let rest for 15 minutes.

7. Transfer the lamb to a platter and carve at the table. Transfer the lamb to a platter and carve at the table.

Roast Rack of Lamb with Romaine Salad and Anchovy Dressing The expense of rack of lamb usually elevates it to special-dinner status, with all the attendant anxiety about breaking away from anything but tried-and-true approaches. This recipe offers a great alternative to the cla.s.sic Dijon mustard sauce and fancy baby vegetable garnishes so often seen with lamb racks. When my son was young, he referred to rack chops as ”steak on a stick,” which jogged me into thinking about how I would handle rack of lamb if I had the same freedom to play around with seasonings that I did with kebabs. An old-fas.h.i.+oned Italian anchovy marinade for grilled lamb seemed particularly appealing. Why not go even one step further and serve the lamb with a Romaine salad dressed with anchovy vinaigrette and Parmesan croutons? The dish is filled with big appealing flavors and is a lot easier than the usual way of handling racks. lamb usually elevates it to special-dinner status, with all the attendant anxiety about breaking away from anything but tried-and-true approaches. This recipe offers a great alternative to the cla.s.sic Dijon mustard sauce and fancy baby vegetable garnishes so often seen with lamb racks. When my son was young, he referred to rack chops as ”steak on a stick,” which jogged me into thinking about how I would handle rack of lamb if I had the same freedom to play around with seasonings that I did with kebabs. An old-fas.h.i.+oned Italian anchovy marinade for grilled lamb seemed particularly appealing. Why not go even one step further and serve the lamb with a Romaine salad dressed with anchovy vinaigrette and Parmesan croutons? The dish is filled with big appealing flavors and is a lot easier than the usual way of handling racks.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 6 anchovies, rinsed and finely chopped 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons dried mint cup vegetable oil

Two 7- or 8-bone racks of lamb, trimmed to leave a thin layer of fat, chine bone removed so you can cut between the chops 1 medium red onion, sliced into -inch-thick rounds cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Eight -inch-thick slices rustic bread 1 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons freshly grated Parmesan 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 garlic clove, minced and then mashed with a pinch of salt to a paste 1 teaspoon minced shallots 6 anchovies, rinsed and finely chopped teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 head Romaine lettuce, washed, dried, and cut crosswise into strips 3 inches wide 2 ounces Parmesan cheese shavings 1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges DO AHEAD: Marinate the lamb. Marinate the lamb.

1. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Set the lamb racks in a nonreactive container and smear the meat with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, or up to a day. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a small bowl. Set the lamb racks in a nonreactive container and smear the meat with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, or up to a day.

2. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

3. Toss the onions with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer in a small roasting pan and roast until brown around the edges and tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. Toss the onions with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer in a small roasting pan and roast until brown around the edges and tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.

4. To make the croutons, lay the bread slices in a single layer on a sheet pan. Brush each slice with teaspoon of the olive oil and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the Parmesan cheese. When the onions are done, bake the croutons for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the bread is toasted. Set aside. Leave the oven on. To make the croutons, lay the bread slices in a single layer on a sheet pan. Brush each slice with teaspoon of the olive oil and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the Parmesan cheese. When the onions are done, bake the croutons for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the bread is toasted. Set aside. Leave the oven on.

5. To sear the lamb racks, heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in each of two large ovenproof saute pans over medium-high heat. (If you don't have two large ovenproof pans, sear the racks individually, then transfer to a large roasting pan that has been heating in the oven.) Season the lamb all over with salt and pepper. (Don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade.) Add the racks to the pans, meat side down, and sear until brown, about 4 minutes. To sear the lamb racks, heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in each of two large ovenproof saute pans over medium-high heat. (If you don't have two large ovenproof pans, sear the racks individually, then transfer to a large roasting pan that has been heating in the oven.) Season the lamb all over with salt and pepper. (Don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade.) Add the racks to the pans, meat side down, and sear until brown, about 4 minutes.

6. Turn the meat, then transfer the pans to the oven. Roast until an instant-read digital thermometer inserted in the center of the rack reads 125F for medium-rare (120F for rare). Start checking after 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest. Return the onions to the oven to warm while you make the salad. Turn the meat, then transfer the pans to the oven. Roast until an instant-read digital thermometer inserted in the center of the rack reads 125F for medium-rare (120F for rare). Start checking after 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest. Return the onions to the oven to warm while you make the salad.

7. To make the dressing, combine the garlic, shallots, anchovies, and mustard in a small bowl. Whisk in the red wine vinegar. Whisk in the remaining cup olive oil in a thin, steady stream until the vinaigrette is smooth and emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the lettuce in a large bowl with the vinaigrette. Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary. To make the dressing, combine the garlic, shallots, anchovies, and mustard in a small bowl. Whisk in the red wine vinegar. Whisk in the remaining cup olive oil in a thin, steady stream until the vinaigrette is smooth and emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the lettuce in a large bowl with the vinaigrette. Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary.

8. Arrange the salad on a platter or individual plates. Sprinkle with the Parmesan shavings. Slice the lamb into individual chops and arrange in front of the salad. Drape the salad with the roasted onions and garnish with the croutons. Add a lemon wedge to each plate and serve immediately. Arrange the salad on a platter or individual plates. Sprinkle with the Parmesan shavings. Slice the lamb into individual chops and arrange in front of the salad. Drape the salad with the roasted onions and garnish with the croutons. Add a lemon wedge to each plate and serve immediately.

Thin-Sliced Calves' Liver with Greens, Dijon Mustard Sauce, and Vinegared Grapes Calves' liver has a mild, delicate taste overlaying a rich texture, a true connoisseur's treat. Sharp or acidic elements, like the sweet-and-sour mustard sauce and vinegared grapes of this recipe, balance the richness. Beef liver, on the other hand, is quite strong, with a taste that's well ... livery. livery. You shouldn't have any problem distinguis.h.i.+ng the latter from the former-calves' liver (sometimes called ”veal liver”) is quite pale; beef liver is a deep purple. Don't be fooled by ”baby beef liver, ” which is just another name for liver from a mature steer. You shouldn't have any problem distinguis.h.i.+ng the latter from the former-calves' liver (sometimes called ”veal liver”) is quite pale; beef liver is a deep purple. Don't be fooled by ”baby beef liver, ” which is just another name for liver from a mature steer.

This preparation calls for first soaking the liver in milk. The milk sweetens the meat by purging it of any remaining blood MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 pounds very fresh calves' liver, outer membrane removed and sliced inch thick 2 cups milk Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper About cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dredging cup vegetable oil, as needed 4 to 5 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, as needed 8 cups lightly packed greens, such as arugula, watercress, or spinach, washed, dried, and stems removed as necessary 2 shallots, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon honey 4 to 5 tablespoons high-quality red wine vinegar 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard Vinegared Grapes (optional; recipe follows) DO AHEAD: Make the Vinegared Grapes. Make the Vinegared Grapes.

1. Soak the liver slices in the milk in the refrigerator for 1 hour to remove any remaining blood. Soak the liver slices in the milk in the refrigerator for 1 hour to remove any remaining blood.

2. Preheat the oven to 200F. Preheat the oven to 200F.

3. Drain the liver and pat dry. Season on both sides with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour. Tap off any excess. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the oil is hot, add as many slices of liver as will fit in the pan without crowding. Unless you have an exceptionally large saute pan, you'll need to cook the liver in two batches. Brown the slices on one side, about 2 minutes, then flip, add 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter, and brown the other side, also for 2 minutes. The liver will be between medium and medium-rare. Transfer the cooked slices to a platter and put the platter in the warm oven. Wipe out the pan, or leftover bits of flour will burn as the new arrivals start to brown. Add more oil before beginning the second batch, and then more b.u.t.ter after flipping the slices. Drain the liver and pat dry. Season on both sides with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour. Tap off any excess. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the oil is hot, add as many slices of liver as will fit in the pan without crowding. Unless you have an exceptionally large saute pan, you'll need to cook the liver in two batches. Brown the slices on one side, about 2 minutes, then flip, add 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter, and brown the other side, also for 2 minutes. The liver will be between medium and medium-rare. Transfer the cooked slices to a platter and put the platter in the warm oven. Wipe out the pan, or leftover bits of flour will burn as the new arrivals start to brown. Add more oil before beginning the second batch, and then more b.u.t.ter after flipping the slices.

4. Wipe the pan clean after all the liver is cooked, then add 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the pan. Add the greens, season with salt and pepper, and stir them about the pan until they wilt, about 2 minutes. Arrange the greens on the platter with the liver, and return the platter to the oven. Wipe the pan clean after all the liver is cooked, then add 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the pan. Add the greens, season with salt and pepper, and stir them about the pan until they wilt, about 2 minutes. Arrange the greens on the platter with the liver, and return the platter to the oven.

5. To make the sauce, lower the heat to medium and add 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the shallots and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the honey and 4 tablespoons of the red wine vinegar and continue cooking until the liquid reduces to a glaze, less than a minute. Add the chicken stock and cook until it reduces to cup, 15 to 20 minutes. To make the sauce, lower the heat to medium and add 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the shallots and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the honey and 4 tablespoons of the red wine vinegar and continue cooking until the liquid reduces to a glaze, less than a minute. Add the chicken stock and cook until it reduces to cup, 15 to 20 minutes.

6. Whisk in the mustard and season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the liver and greens and serve immediately. Whisk in the mustard and season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the liver and greens and serve immediately.