Part 16 (2/2)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil small white onion, chopped into -inch dice 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1 teaspoon chopped serrano pepper cup pumpkin seeds, toasted and coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 2 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth reduced to 1 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Kosher salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil GARNISH.

lime, cut into 4 wedges 4 sprigs cilantro DO AHEAD: Marinate the pork in the garlic and spice mixture for at least 12 hours; longer is fine. Marinate the pork in the garlic and spice mixture for at least 12 hours; longer is fine.

1. To make the marinade, toast the coriander, c.u.min, and anise seeds in a dry pan over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Grind the seeds in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. To make the marinade, toast the coriander, c.u.min, and anise seeds in a dry pan over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Grind the seeds in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle.

2. In a small bowl, mix the ground spices with the paprika and cayenne pepper. Set aside 1 teaspoon of the mixture for the sauce. In a small bowl, mix the ground spices with the paprika and cayenne pepper. Set aside 1 teaspoon of the mixture for the sauce.

3. Stir the garlic, vegetable oil, and brown sugar into the remaining spice mix. Rub the pork all over with the spice marinade, cover, and allow to marinate for 12 hours in the refrigerator. Stir the garlic, vegetable oil, and brown sugar into the remaining spice mix. Rub the pork all over with the spice marinade, cover, and allow to marinate for 12 hours in the refrigerator.

4. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

5. Heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute, stirring periodically, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the serrano pepper and cook for 3 more minutes. Add the pumpkin seeds, chicken stock, and the 1 teaspoon of reserved spice mixture from the marinade. Cook for 20 more minutes, or until thickened, then remove from the heat. Puree the mixture in a blender or with an immersion blender, then set aside while you cook the pork. Heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute, stirring periodically, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the serrano pepper and cook for 3 more minutes. Add the pumpkin seeds, chicken stock, and the 1 teaspoon of reserved spice mixture from the marinade. Cook for 20 more minutes, or until thickened, then remove from the heat. Puree the mixture in a blender or with an immersion blender, then set aside while you cook the pork.

6. Season the pork with salt. Rub a large ovenproof grill pan with the vegetable oil and heat over medium-high heat. (Or heat the oil in a large overproof skillet or saute pan.) Put the pork tenderloin in the pan when the oil starts to smoke. Sear the pork, turning occasionally, until it has a nice crust on all sides, about 5 minutes. Season the pork with salt. Rub a large ovenproof grill pan with the vegetable oil and heat over medium-high heat. (Or heat the oil in a large overproof skillet or saute pan.) Put the pork tenderloin in the pan when the oil starts to smoke. Sear the pork, turning occasionally, until it has a nice crust on all sides, about 5 minutes.

7. Transfer to the oven and roast until done, about 5 more minutes. The internal temperature of the pork should read no more than 140F (see page 273). Allow the pork to repose for 10 minutes before slicing. During this time, the temperature will come up to about 150F. Transfer to the oven and roast until done, about 5 more minutes. The internal temperature of the pork should read no more than 140F (see page 273). Allow the pork to repose for 10 minutes before slicing. During this time, the temperature will come up to about 150F.

8. Reheat the sauce in a small saucepan while the pork reposes. Add the lime juice and cilantro and season with salt and pepper. Slice the meat across the grain on a diagonal. Arrange the slices on a warm platter. Drizzle with the sauce and garnish with the lime wedges and cilantro sprigs. Serve immediately. Reheat the sauce in a small saucepan while the pork reposes. Add the lime juice and cilantro and season with salt and pepper. Slice the meat across the grain on a diagonal. Arrange the slices on a warm platter. Drizzle with the sauce and garnish with the lime wedges and cilantro sprigs. Serve immediately.

Seared Loin Lamb Chops with Saffron and Roasted Garlic Pan Sauce During a trip to Spain, I kept encountering a combination of saffron and garlic used to flavor various lamb dishes. In this country, saffron is more often a.s.sociated with seafood than with meat and my Spanish experience was like discovering a new color in the crayon box. I've played with the formula by introducing basil, another herb not often a.s.sociated with lamb, and using roasted garlic rather than fresh. Roasting the garlic changes the flavor from sharp to mellow, and using the whole cloves helps to thicken the sauce, so less b.u.t.ter is needed. I kept encountering a combination of saffron and garlic used to flavor various lamb dishes. In this country, saffron is more often a.s.sociated with seafood than with meat and my Spanish experience was like discovering a new color in the crayon box. I've played with the formula by introducing basil, another herb not often a.s.sociated with lamb, and using roasted garlic rather than fresh. Roasting the garlic changes the flavor from sharp to mellow, and using the whole cloves helps to thicken the sauce, so less b.u.t.ter is needed.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

cup Roasted Garlic (page 119) teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Thai basil (subst.i.tute Italian basil if Thai basil is unavailable) 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Eight 5-ounce loin lamb chops cup vegetable oil Kosher salt SAUCE.

cup dry white wine Pinch of saffron 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups highquality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons Roasted Garlic (page 119) 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Kosher salt 1. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Add the chops and turn to coat with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Add the chops and turn to coat with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in each of two large saute pans over medium-high heat. Season the lamb chops evenly with salt. (Don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade.) When the oil is hot, put 4 chops in each pan. Sear on both sides, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the chops to a plate. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in each of two large saute pans over medium-high heat. Season the lamb chops evenly with salt. (Don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade.) When the oil is hot, put 4 chops in each pan. Sear on both sides, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the chops to a plate.

3. Set aside one of the pans. To make the sauce, deglaze the remaining pan with the wine, using a wooden spoon to make sure the crispy bits dissolve completely, and add the saffron. Reduce the wine to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and continue cooking until the liquid in the pan has reduced to cup, about 15 minutes. Do not overreduce. Set aside one of the pans. To make the sauce, deglaze the remaining pan with the wine, using a wooden spoon to make sure the crispy bits dissolve completely, and add the saffron. Reduce the wine to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and continue cooking until the liquid in the pan has reduced to cup, about 15 minutes. Do not overreduce.

4. Off the heat, whisk in the roasted garlic and b.u.t.ter. Add the lemon juice and parsley; season with salt. Off the heat, whisk in the roasted garlic and b.u.t.ter. Add the lemon juice and parsley; season with salt.

5. Put 2 chops on each of four plates, sauce each portion at once, and serve immediately. Put 2 chops on each of four plates, sauce each portion at once, and serve immediately.

Seared Lamb Steaks with Balsamic Vinegar and Red Pepper Marinade Lamb steaks are cut from the sirloin end of the leg. Meaty, chewier than sirloin chops, they're an ideal cut for searing or grilling, especially if you marinate them first. Just be sure to buy them at least inch thick, or they'll dry out during cooking. After marinating in a highly seasoned puree of roasted red peppers, the steaks are seared for a few minutes on each side. Then the marinade is briefly reduced over high heat to thicken it into a sauce and poured over the meat just before serving. Primal ingredients, primal flavors. the sirloin end of the leg. Meaty, chewier than sirloin chops, they're an ideal cut for searing or grilling, especially if you marinate them first. Just be sure to buy them at least inch thick, or they'll dry out during cooking. After marinating in a highly seasoned puree of roasted red peppers, the steaks are seared for a few minutes on each side. Then the marinade is briefly reduced over high heat to thicken it into a sauce and poured over the meat just before serving. Primal ingredients, primal flavors.

Leftovers will keep for 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator. Rather than trying to reheat the steaks whole, slice them into thin strips, simmer briefly in tomato sauce, and toss with pasta.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

4 large red peppers, roasted (see page 99), peeled, stemmed, and seeded 3 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped teaspoon anise seeds 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 lamb blade steaks, 1 inch thick (10 to 12 ounces each) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil DO AHEAD: The lamb needs to marinate for at least 3 hours; 12 would be ideal. The lamb needs to marinate for at least 3 hours; 12 would be ideal.

1. Puree the red peppers in a blender or food processor. You should end up with about a cup of puree. Combine the puree with the remaining marinade ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Put the steaks in the bowl and turn to coat evenly on both sides with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, ideally, 12 hours. Puree the red peppers in a blender or food processor. You should end up with about a cup of puree. Combine the puree with the remaining marinade ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Put the steaks in the bowl and turn to coat evenly on both sides with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, ideally, 12 hours.

2. Remove the steaks from the marinade. Sc.r.a.pe the marinade off the lamb back into the bowl; reserve. Remove the steaks from the marinade. Sc.r.a.pe the marinade off the lamb back into the bowl; reserve.

3. Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the steaks and cook, turning once, until done, about Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the steaks and cook, turning once, until done, about 5 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the lamb steaks to a platter. minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the lamb steaks to a platter.

4. Lower the heat to medium. Wipe out the pan if there are any burned bits. Add the marinade to the pan and cook for 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until thick and bubbling. Spoon over the lamb and serve at once. Lower the heat to medium. Wipe out the pan if there are any burned bits. Add the marinade to the pan and cook for 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until thick and bubbling. Spoon over the lamb and serve at once.

Braised Rosemary-Stuffed Lamb Shanks with Roasted Fennel and Red Onions Usually you cut a pocket into a piece of meat and stuff it with herbs when you're going to roast the meat, but I've adapted the technique for this dish of braised lamb shanks. This recipe is also unusual in that its accompanying ingredients are cooked separately. Ordinarily a braised meat recipe would include all the vegetables in the braising pot, rather than cooking them individually, but roasted fennel is so appealing in its own right that it seems a shame to lose its distinct flavor in the braise. Why not let it stand as a complement to the rosemary-infused lamb? into a piece of meat and stuff it with herbs when you're going to roast the meat, but I've adapted the technique for this dish of braised lamb shanks. This recipe is also unusual in that its accompanying ingredients are cooked separately. Ordinarily a braised meat recipe would include all the vegetables in the braising pot, rather than cooking them individually, but roasted fennel is so appealing in its own right that it seems a shame to lose its distinct flavor in the braise. Why not let it stand as a complement to the rosemary-infused lamb?

Braised lamb shanks are exquisite right out of the pot, but letting them rest in their braising juices for a day or two allows the other flavors to penetrate the meat more deeply. Reheat them, covered, in a 375F oven for 40 minutes. If you have leftovers, cut the meat off the bone (discard the bones) before refrigerating the meat in the sauce. Reheating is quicker that way, making it a simple step to serve the meat and sauce over fresh pappardelle noodles (see page 144) or rice.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

LAMB.

Four 1-pound lamb shanks (from the back leg-it's meatier) 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary (use any left over in the braise) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 medium carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch pieces 1 medium onion, sliced inch thick 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch pieces 6 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped 2 cups dry white wine 1 cup chopped drained canned tomatoes 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 2 bay leaves 6 anchovies, rinsed and chopped 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 8 allspice berries 1 cup chopped fresh basil ROASTED VEGETABLES.

1 fennel bulb, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut lengthwise into quarters, and cored 1 large red onion, cut into quarters 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons Pernod Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper DO AHEAD: Stuff the lamb shanks with the rosemary at least 6 hours, and preferably 12, before braising. The lamb can be braised up to 3 days ahead of time as long as it's kept tightly covered and refrigerated. This has the added advantage of making it easy to remove the fat, which, when chilled, forms a layer at the top of the dish. Roast the fennel and red onion on the day of serving. Stuff the lamb shanks with the rosemary at least 6 hours, and preferably 12, before braising. The lamb can be braised up to 3 days ahead of time as long as it's kept tightly covered and refrigerated. This has the added advantage of making it easy to remove the fat, which, when chilled, forms a layer at the top of the dish. Roast the fennel and red onion on the day of serving.

1. Using the tip of a sharp paring knife, make 12 small incisions, Using the tip of a sharp paring knife, make 12 small incisions, inch deep, in each shank. Push a couple of rosemary leaves into each incision. (Save any remaining rosemary.) Wrap the shanks tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or, preferably, overnight. inch deep, in each shank. Push a couple of rosemary leaves into each incision. (Save any remaining rosemary.) Wrap the shanks tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or, preferably, overnight.

2. Unwrap the shanks and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep braising pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the oil starts to smoke, sear the shanks until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Set the shanks aside. Unwrap the shanks and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep braising pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the oil starts to smoke, sear the shanks until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Set the shanks aside.

3. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pan. Lower the heat to medium, add the carrot, onion, celery, and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes; set aside the vegetables. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and continue cooking until it reduces by half, 6 to 8 minutes. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pan. Lower the heat to medium, add the carrot, onion, celery, and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes; set aside the vegetables. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and continue cooking until it reduces by half, 6 to 8 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

5. Add all the remaining braising ingredients except the basil (including any remaining rosemary) to the pan. Take note of how high the liquid reaches up the sides of the pan, and cook until it has reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Return the shanks to the pan, along with half the basil. The liquid should reach one-third of the way up the shanks. If not, add enough water to make up the difference. Cover the shanks tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan. Add all the remaining braising ingredients except the basil (including any remaining rosemary) to the pan. Take note of how high the liquid reaches up the sides of the pan, and cook until it has reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Return the shanks to the pan, along with half the basil. The liquid should reach one-third of the way up the shanks. If not, add enough water to make up the difference. Cover the shanks tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan.

6. Put the pan in the oven. Braise until the meat is very tender, about 2 to 3 hours, checking the level of liquid every 30 minutes and adding water as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the shanks. After 1 hours, flip the shanks. Put the pan in the oven. Braise until the meat is very tender, about 2 to 3 hours, checking the level of liquid every 30 minutes and adding water as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the shanks. After 1 hours, flip the shanks.

7. Meanwhile, after the lamb has braised for 30 minutes, toss the fennel and onion quarters with the olive oil and Pernod in a small roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper. Put the vegetables in the oven. Roast until tender and golden, about 2 hours. If by some chance the lamb finishes cooking before the vegetables, remove the shanks from the oven, increase the oven temperature to 400F and continue roasting until done. Meanwhile, after the lamb has braised for 30 minutes, toss the fennel and onion quarters with the olive oil and Pernod in a small roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper. Put the vegetables in the oven. Roast until tender and golden, about 2 hours. If by some chance the lamb finishes cooking before the vegetables, remove the shanks from the oven, increase the oven temperature to 400F and continue roasting until done.

8. After the lamb has finished cooking, remove the shanks from the pan and keep warm. Strain the braising vegetables out of the juices. Puree them in a blender or food processor with the remaining basil and return them to the juices to make a sauce. After the lamb has finished cooking, remove the shanks from the pan and keep warm. Strain the braising vegetables out of the juices. Puree them in a blender or food processor with the remaining basil and return them to the juices to make a sauce.

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