Part 9 (2/2)

3. Put a large pot of water on to boil. Put a large pot of water on to boil.

4. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat starts to render, about a minute. Don't let it get too crispy. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Keep warm. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat starts to render, about a minute. Don't let it get too crispy. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Keep warm.

5. Season the boiling water with salt and add the pasta, stirring so the individual strands remain separate. Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the tagliatelle is tender but still offers a little resistance when you bite into it, about 3 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside. Season the boiling water with salt and add the pasta, stirring so the individual strands remain separate. Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the tagliatelle is tender but still offers a little resistance when you bite into it, about 3 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside.

6. Pour the pasta into a colander. While it's draining, return the pancetta, garlic, and shallots to high heat. Add the spinach and tarragon and toss quickly, just until the spinach has wilted. Season with salt and pepper; remove from heat and keep warm. Pour the pasta into a colander. While it's draining, return the pancetta, garlic, and shallots to high heat. Add the spinach and tarragon and toss quickly, just until the spinach has wilted. Season with salt and pepper; remove from heat and keep warm.

7. Transfer the pasta to a large warm bowl. Pour the spinach mixture over it and add the roe. Toss well. If the sauce seems too thick to coat the pasta, add a little of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Season with the lemon juice, salt, and pepper, being especially generous with pepper. Serve immediately. Transfer the pasta to a large warm bowl. Pour the spinach mixture over it and add the roe. Toss well. If the sauce seems too thick to coat the pasta, add a little of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Season with the lemon juice, salt, and pepper, being especially generous with pepper. Serve immediately.

Brandade Lasagna with Broccoli Rabe This is not the lasagna your mother (or grandmother) used to serve you. Deceptively spare, elegant, with about a third of the cheese of traditional lasagna, it's suffused with the a.s.sertive flavor of brandade, the Provencal puree of salt cod, cream, and a little potato. By itself, brandade would be too rich a filler for lasagna-you'd be sated after a bite or two-but the sharp flavor of broccoli rabe and the mild acid of the tomato sauce keep the brandade in line. Just when you think you've had enough, the richness is erased, and you want to go back for more. your mother (or grandmother) used to serve you. Deceptively spare, elegant, with about a third of the cheese of traditional lasagna, it's suffused with the a.s.sertive flavor of brandade, the Provencal puree of salt cod, cream, and a little potato. By itself, brandade would be too rich a filler for lasagna-you'd be sated after a bite or two-but the sharp flavor of broccoli rabe and the mild acid of the tomato sauce keep the brandade in line. Just when you think you've had enough, the richness is erased, and you want to go back for more.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

SAUCE.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 small onion, chopped into -inch dice 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 cups diced tomatoes (high-quality canned tomatoes are fine) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon sugar teaspoon hot red pepper flakes LASAGNA.

Kosher salt 1 pounds broccoli rabe, tough or split stems removed, rinsed 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit Freshly ground black pepper 4 garlic cloves, chopped teaspoon hot red pepper flakes Eight 68-inch sheets Fresh Pasta (pages 14243; use half a recipe [about pound], roll it out to setting #6, and cut into 8-inch lengths) 1 recipe Brandade de Morue (page 22) cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 cups freshly grated Pecorino Romano 4 teaspoons capers, rinsed, for garnish DO AHEAD: Make the brandade 2 days ahead. The sauce can also be made ahead and reheated. Make the brandade 2 days ahead. The sauce can also be made ahead and reheated.

1. Heat the olive oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and add the sugar and red pepper flakes. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. If the sauce seems too thick, thin it with a little water as it cooks. Heat the olive oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and add the sugar and red pepper flakes. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. If the sauce seems too thick, thin it with a little water as it cooks.

2. Transfer the sauce to a blender and puree. Strain, if desired, and set aside. Transfer the sauce to a blender and puree. Strain, if desired, and set aside.

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Add the broccoli rabe to the boiling water and cook at a rolling boil until tender, about 4 minutes. Scoop out the broccoli and plunge it into the ice water. When it's chilled, drain and pat dry. Coa.r.s.ely chop and set aside. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Add the broccoli rabe to the boiling water and cook at a rolling boil until tender, about 4 minutes. Scoop out the broccoli and plunge it into the ice water. When it's chilled, drain and pat dry. Coa.r.s.ely chop and set aside.

4. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the broccoli rabe and red pepper flakes, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Remove from the heat and let cool. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about a minute. Add the broccoli rabe and red pepper flakes, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Remove from the heat and let cool.

5. Bring a fresh pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare another bowl of ice water. Lay out a sheet of plastic wrap on the counter large enough to hold one sheet of pasta. Add the pasta sheets to the boiling water and blanch for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Drain the sheets in a colander, then immediately plunge them into the ice bath. Stir the sheets gently until they've cooled, about 30 seconds. Remove one pasta sheet, drain, and lay it out on the plastic wrap. Cover with a second sheet of plastic, then remove and drain a second pasta sheet, lay it on top of the first, and cover with plastic. (Work quickly; if you leave the pasta sheets in the water too long, they'll stick together.) Repeat the process with the remaining sheets, then cover with a final layer of plastic wrap. Set aside until ready to use. Bring a fresh pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare another bowl of ice water. Lay out a sheet of plastic wrap on the counter large enough to hold one sheet of pasta. Add the pasta sheets to the boiling water and blanch for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Drain the sheets in a colander, then immediately plunge them into the ice bath. Stir the sheets gently until they've cooled, about 30 seconds. Remove one pasta sheet, drain, and lay it out on the plastic wrap. Cover with a second sheet of plastic, then remove and drain a second pasta sheet, lay it on top of the first, and cover with plastic. (Work quickly; if you leave the pasta sheets in the water too long, they'll stick together.) Repeat the process with the remaining sheets, then cover with a final layer of plastic wrap. Set aside until ready to use.

6. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

7. Rub a 913-inch lasagna pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Mix the brandade with the parsley. Lay 2 of the pasta sheets side by side in the pan so the bottom is covered. Spread the sheets evenly with one-third of the brandade. Top with one-third of the leek and broccoli rabe mixture, sprinkle with cup of the cheese, and cover with 2 more sheets of pasta. Repeat the layering two more times, finis.h.i.+ng with a final layer of pasta sheets. Brush the top with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and sprinkle with the remaining cup Pecorino Romano. Rub a 913-inch lasagna pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Mix the brandade with the parsley. Lay 2 of the pasta sheets side by side in the pan so the bottom is covered. Spread the sheets evenly with one-third of the brandade. Top with one-third of the leek and broccoli rabe mixture, sprinkle with cup of the cheese, and cover with 2 more sheets of pasta. Repeat the layering two more times, finis.h.i.+ng with a final layer of pasta sheets. Brush the top with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and sprinkle with the remaining cup Pecorino Romano.

8. Bake the lasagna for 25 minutes, or until it is heated through and the top is lightly browned. Let rest for 5 minutes before cutting. Bake the lasagna for 25 minutes, or until it is heated through and the top is lightly browned. Let rest for 5 minutes before cutting.

9. While the lasagna is resting, warm the sauce. Cut the lasagna into 4 equal pieces. Make a pool of warm tomato sauce in the center of each plate. Set a serving of lasagna in the center of each pool of sauce. Sprinkle with the capers and serve. While the lasagna is resting, warm the sauce. Cut the lasagna into 4 equal pieces. Make a pool of warm tomato sauce in the center of each plate. Set a serving of lasagna in the center of each pool of sauce. Sprinkle with the capers and serve.

Spaghetti with Maine Crabmeat, Toasted Bread Crumbs, and Garlic I was skeptical on first hearing was skeptical on first hearing that in southern Italy bread crumbs sauteed in olive oil were the poor man's subst.i.tute for cheese. I didn't doubt that this was a technique that was used, just whether it tasted good. I've since revised my opinion: Sauteed bread crumbs lend a great texture and delicious flavor to pasta, even when there is nothing else to accompany them except a few cloves of garlic and a handful of chopped fresh herbs. that in southern Italy bread crumbs sauteed in olive oil were the poor man's subst.i.tute for cheese. I didn't doubt that this was a technique that was used, just whether it tasted good. I've since revised my opinion: Sauteed bread crumbs lend a great texture and delicious flavor to pasta, even when there is nothing else to accompany them except a few cloves of garlic and a handful of chopped fresh herbs.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 cups slightly dry coa.r.s.e bread crumbs 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, or more to taste Kosher salt 1 pound high-quality dried spaghetti 1 pound Maine (or other high-quality) crabmeat (fresh or thawed frozen), picked through to remove any sh.e.l.ls cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Put a large pot of water on to boil. Put a large pot of water on to boil.

2. Meanwhile, heat cup of the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and stir until they're toasted and golden brown. Remove from the pan and set aside. Meanwhile, heat cup of the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and stir until they're toasted and golden brown. Remove from the pan and set aside.

3. Wipe out the pan with a paper towel and add the remaining oil. Add the garlic and cook over medium heat until golden. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes, season with salt, and cook until the tomatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 3 minutes. Set aside. Wipe out the pan with a paper towel and add the remaining oil. Add the garlic and cook over medium heat until golden. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes, season with salt, and cook until the tomatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 3 minutes. Set aside.

4. Season the boiling water with salt and add the pasta, stirring so the strands remain separate. (If the pot isn't large enough for the spaghetti to lie flat, either break the strands in half or hold one end of the pasta bundle while the other end softens in the boiling water, then release the pasta into the water.) Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil, cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the spaghetti is tender but still offers a little bit of resistance when you bite into it. Begin checking for doneness after 8 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside. Season the boiling water with salt and add the pasta, stirring so the strands remain separate. (If the pot isn't large enough for the spaghetti to lie flat, either break the strands in half or hold one end of the pasta bundle while the other end softens in the boiling water, then release the pasta into the water.) Cover the pot if necessary to bring the water back to a boil, cook for 1 minute, then stir again. Continue to check periodically to make sure the strands aren't sticking together, and cook until the spaghetti is tender but still offers a little bit of resistance when you bite into it. Begin checking for doneness after 8 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water. Set it aside.

5. Pour the pasta into a colander. While it's draining, return the tomatoes to high heat. Add the crabmeat and parsley and heat through. Pour the pasta into a colander. While it's draining, return the tomatoes to high heat. Add the crabmeat and parsley and heat through.

6. Transfer the spaghetti to a large warm bowl. Pour the sauce over it and toss well. If the sauce is too thick to coat the spaghetti, add enough of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Toss with the bread crumbs and serve. Transfer the spaghetti to a large warm bowl. Pour the sauce over it and toss well. If the sauce is too thick to coat the spaghetti, add enough of the reserved pasta water to thin it, then toss again. Toss with the bread crumbs and serve.

Fregola-Sardinian Pasta with Lemon, Favas, Parmesan, and Lots of Parsley Fregola is a granular Sardinian pasta. The pasta dough is rolled by hand into peppercorn-sized b.a.l.l.s and then baked. In the last few years it has been appearing on American menus, either under its own name or billed as ”giant couscous, ” which it does indeed resemble. In Sardinia, fregola is often added to soup or broth, not unlike orzo, or matched with seafood, especially mussels or clams. You can cook it like regular pasta-boiling it in stock or water-but I prefer to treat it like risotto, which results in a much creamier texture. pasta. The pasta dough is rolled by hand into peppercorn-sized b.a.l.l.s and then baked. In the last few years it has been appearing on American menus, either under its own name or billed as ”giant couscous, ” which it does indeed resemble. In Sardinia, fregola is often added to soup or broth, not unlike orzo, or matched with seafood, especially mussels or clams. You can cook it like regular pasta-boiling it in stock or water-but I prefer to treat it like risotto, which results in a much creamier texture.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER OR SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

4 to 5 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, cut into -inch dice pound fregola (Sardinian pasta, available in the Mediterranean section of specialty food stores) Grated zest of 2 lemons 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus extra for serving 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter cup sh.e.l.led fresh fava beans, long-blanched (see Fava Notes, page 88) and peeled (about 1 pound in the pod; if favas are unavailable, you can use blanched fresh lima beans or fresh peas) cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a medium saucepan, then lower the heat to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper if it's unseasoned or you're using low-sodium broth. Keep the stock hot. Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a medium saucepan, then lower the heat to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper if it's unseasoned or you're using low-sodium broth. Keep the stock hot.

2. Heat the oil in a large deep saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the fregola and lemon zest and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Ladle 1 cup of the chicken stock over the fregola, stirring constantly, and cook until the stock is almost completely absorbed. Add 3 more cups of the stock, 1 cups at a time, waiting until the previous addition is almost absorbed before adding more. Lower the heat if the stock seems to disappear as soon as it hits the pan or seems to be boiling. When finished, the pasta should be tender but not mushy. Add more chicken stock if necessary; the dish should be a little soupy. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the lemon juice and cheese. Keep warm. Heat the oil in a large deep saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the fregola and lemon zest and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Ladle 1 cup of the chicken stock over the fregola, stirring constantly, and cook until the stock is almost completely absorbed. Add 3 more cups of the stock, 1 cups at a time, waiting until the previous addition is almost absorbed before adding more. Lower the heat if the stock seems to disappear as soon as it hits the pan or seems to be boiling. When finished, the pasta should be tender but not mushy. Add more chicken stock if necessary; the dish should be a little soupy. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the lemon juice and cheese. Keep warm.

3. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the favas and toss in the b.u.t.ter until heated through. Season with salt and pepper. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the favas and toss in the b.u.t.ter until heated through. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Stir the parsley into the fregola. Spoon the pasta into four warm bowls, top with the fava beans, and serve, offering additional cheese. Stir the parsley into the fregola. Spoon the pasta into four warm bowls, top with the fava beans, and serve, offering additional cheese.

Penne with Shrimp, Artichokes, and Feta At a conference of women chefs in Mexico City, I tasted a perfect shrimp dish prepared by Monique Andree Barbeau, the chef of Fullers in Seattle. The shrimp were saturated with flavor, but still mysteriously tender. The trick, she explained, was to first simmer aromatic ingredients in oil, then to cook the shrimp over low heat, all the while keeping them completely submerged in the flavored oil. In this recipe, fennel, hot red pepper flakes, oregano, garlic, and lemon zest create the first level of flavor, followed by a long simmer of artichoke quarters. Only then do the shrimp enter the pan for their own slow cooking. chefs in Mexico City, I tasted a perfect shrimp dish prepared by Monique Andree Barbeau, the chef of Fullers in Seattle. The shrimp were saturated with flavor, but still mysteriously tender. The trick, she explained, was to first simmer aromatic ingredients in oil, then to cook the shrimp over low heat, all the while keeping them completely submerged in the flavored oil. In this recipe, fennel, hot red pepper flakes, oregano, garlic, and lemon zest create the first level of flavor, followed by a long simmer of artichoke quarters. Only then do the shrimp enter the pan for their own slow cooking.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 cups extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice Grated zest of 1 lemon Kosher salt 3 large artichokes, trimmed (see page 85), cut into quarters, chokes removed, and rubbed with a lemon half 1 pound medium shrimp (20 to 25), peeled and deveined 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice pound penne 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, plus 4 sprigs for garnish 3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano 6 ounces feta, crumbled into large pieces 1. Combine the olive oil, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, oregano, red pepper flakes, garlic, onion, and lemon zest in a large saute pan. Season generously with salt. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, so the seasonings flavor the oil. Combine the olive oil, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, oregano, red pepper flakes, garlic, onion, and lemon zest in a large saute pan. Season generously with salt. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, so the seasonings flavor the oil.

2. Add the artichokes, lower the heat if necessary (the oil should be barely bubbling), and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the artichokes to a bowl. Add the artichokes, lower the heat if necessary (the oil should be barely bubbling), and cook until tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the artichokes to a bowl.

3. Add the shrimp to the oil and cook at the same low simmer, turning once, until done, about 10 minutes. Add the shrimp to the oil and cook at the same low simmer, turning once, until done, about 10 minutes.

4. Remove the shrimp from the oil and let cool on a plate. Pour off 1 cup of the oil from the pan, strain, and refrigerate for another use. (The oil is delicious and can be used in vinaigrettes or for sauteing another dish.) Leave the pan over low heat. Remove the shrimp from the oil and let cool on a plate. Pour off 1 cup of the oil from the pan, strain, and refrigerate for another use. (The oil is delicious and can be used in vinaigrettes or for sauteing another dish.) Leave the pan over low heat.

5. As soon as they're cool enough to handle, remove the leaves from the artichokes and save for another use. Chop the artichoke hearts and stems into 1-inch pieces and return to the bowl. Add the shrimp and toss with the lemon juice. As soon as they're cool enough to handle, remove the leaves from the artichokes and save for another use. Chop the artichoke hearts and stems into 1-inch pieces and return to the bowl. Add the shrimp and toss with the lemon juice.

6. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Add the penne and stir constantly until the water returns to a boil. Cook until the pasta is tender but still offers some resistance when you bite into it, about 10 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water; reserve. Drain the pasta in a colander and add to the saute pan with the oil. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Add the penne and stir constantly until the water returns to a boil. Cook until the pasta is tender but still offers some resistance when you bite into it, about 10 minutes. Before draining the pasta, use a measuring cup to scoop out cup of the pasta water; reserve. Drain the pasta in a colander and add to the saute pan with the oil.

7. Add the artichokes, shrimp, herbs, and feta and toss until heated through. Taste for seasoning. Depending on the saltiness of the feta, it may not be necessary to add additional salt. If the pasta seems too dry, add some of the reserved pasta water as needed. Add the artichokes, shrimp, herbs, and feta and toss until heated through. Taste for seasoning. Depending on the saltiness of the feta, it may not be necessary to add additional salt. If the pasta seems too dry, add some of the reserved pasta water as needed.

8. Divide among four warm bowls. Garnish each portion with a sprig of mint and serve. Divide among four warm bowls. Garnish each portion with a sprig of mint and serve.

Big Ravioli Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms, Spinach, and Poached Eggs This is a spectacular brunch or weekend lunch dish whose first impression is innocently innocuous-a pair of large square ravioli dusted with cheese on each diner's plate. The first cut through the pasta gives the game away-molten egg yolk flows voluptuously over a stuffing of wild mushrooms, tomato, and spinach. It is at once sensual, surprising, and delicious. The raviolis were inspired by or weekend lunch dish whose first impression is innocently innocuous-a pair of large square ravioli dusted with cheese on each diner's plate. The first cut through the pasta gives the game away-molten egg yolk flows voluptuously over a stuffing of wild mushrooms, tomato, and spinach. It is at once sensual, surprising, and delicious. The raviolis were inspired by brik, brik, a North African fried pastry containing an egg. a North African fried pastry containing an egg.

MAKES 8 LARGE RAVIOLI OR 4 SERVINGS.

FILLING.

4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter pound mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 shallots, minced pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried pound cream cheese, at room temperature 2 plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43) 9 extra-large eggs Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 thin slices pancetta (3 to 4 ounces) 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 sprig thyme cup freshly grated Parmesan cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley DO AHEAD: The ravioli can be made up to 4 hours ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to cook them. The ravioli can be made up to 4 hours ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to cook them.

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the b.u.t.ter stops foaming, add the mushrooms and cook until they have released their juices, and the juices are almost gone. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. As soon as the b.u.t.ter stops foaming, add the mushrooms and cook until they have released their juices, and the juices are almost gone. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a bowl.

2. Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the garlic and shallots. Cook until they soften, 2 to 3 minutes, lowering the heat if necessary so they don't burn. Increase the heat to high. Add the spinach and stir until it wilts, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the spinach from the pan, draining any excess water if necessary, and allow to cool. Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the pan. As soon as it melts, add the garlic and shallots. Cook until they soften, 2 to 3 minutes, lowering the heat if necessary so they don't burn. Increase the heat to high. Add the spinach and stir until it wilts, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the spinach from the pan, draining any excess water if necessary, and allow to cool.

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