Part 10 (1/2)

3. Mix the cream cheese with the mushrooms, then add the tomatoes, parsley, thyme, and spinach. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary. Refrigerate until ready to use. Mix the cream cheese with the mushrooms, then add the tomatoes, parsley, thyme, and spinach. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary. Refrigerate until ready to use.

4. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

5. Roll out the pasta according to the directions on page 143, until thin enough for ravioli (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Lay the pasta sheets out on a floured countertop and use a pastry wheel to cut out sixteen 4-inch squares. Discard the pasta sc.r.a.ps. Roll out the pasta according to the directions on page 143, until thin enough for ravioli (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Lay the pasta sheets out on a floured countertop and use a pastry wheel to cut out sixteen 4-inch squares. Discard the pasta sc.r.a.ps.

6. Beat 1 of the eggs with 1 tablespoon water to form an egg wash. Brush the edges of 1 pasta square with the egg wash. Put 3 to 4 tablespoons of the mushroom mixture in the center of the pasta and make a well in the mixture. Crack an egg into a teacup, taking care not to break the yolk. Pour the yolk and about half the white into the well in the filling. (Discard the remaining egg white or reserve for another purpose.) Season with salt and pepper. Cover with a second sheet of pasta and gently push out as much air as possible. Seal the edges with your fingertips or the tines of a fork. Set the ravioli aside on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat the process to make 7 more ravioli. Beat 1 of the eggs with 1 tablespoon water to form an egg wash. Brush the edges of 1 pasta square with the egg wash. Put 3 to 4 tablespoons of the mushroom mixture in the center of the pasta and make a well in the mixture. Crack an egg into a teacup, taking care not to break the yolk. Pour the yolk and about half the white into the well in the filling. (Discard the remaining egg white or reserve for another purpose.) Season with salt and pepper. Cover with a second sheet of pasta and gently push out as much air as possible. Seal the edges with your fingertips or the tines of a fork. Set the ravioli aside on a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat the process to make 7 more ravioli.

7. Lay the pancetta slices on a sheet pan and bake until crispy, about 6 minutes. Keep warm. Lay the pancetta slices on a sheet pan and bake until crispy, about 6 minutes. Keep warm.

8. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt. Slip the ravioli into the water. Cook, stirring gently several times, until done. To test for doneness, cut a small bit of pasta off the edge of a ravioli and taste to see that the pasta is cooked through; 5 minutes is usually long enough to cook the ravioli and the eggs while leaving the yolks still runny. Cook longer for a firmer yolk. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt. Slip the ravioli into the water. Cook, stirring gently several times, until done. To test for doneness, cut a small bit of pasta off the edge of a ravioli and taste to see that the pasta is cooked through; 5 minutes is usually long enough to cook the ravioli and the eggs while leaving the yolks still runny. Cook longer for a firmer yolk.

9. While the ravioli are cooking, melt the 4 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter with the sprig of thyme over medium heat in a small saute pan. Season with salt and pepper and lower the heat to keep warm. While the ravioli are cooking, melt the 4 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter with the sprig of thyme over medium heat in a small saute pan. Season with salt and pepper and lower the heat to keep warm.

10. Scoop the ravioli out of the pot with a slotted spoon and place 2 ravioli on each plate. Allowing some of the pasta water to cling to the ravioli will help the cheese to stick as well as keep the pasta moist. Drizzle with the thyme b.u.t.ter (discard the sprig of thyme). Arrange the pancetta slices on top of the ravioli. Sprinkle with the cheese and parsley and serve. Scoop the ravioli out of the pot with a slotted spoon and place 2 ravioli on each plate. Allowing some of the pasta water to cling to the ravioli will help the cheese to stick as well as keep the pasta moist. Drizzle with the thyme b.u.t.ter (discard the sprig of thyme). Arrange the pancetta slices on top of the ravioli. Sprinkle with the cheese and parsley and serve.

Ravioli Bundles of Roasted Beets with Walnuts, Poppy Seeds, and Garlic Cream A Venetian recipe for beets with Venetian recipe for beets with nuts gave me the idea for these ravioli ”party favors. ” I a.s.sumed that they would taste good, but I was unprepared for how beautiful they are. Some of the juice from the beet filling seeps through the translucent pasta dough and creates a lovely ruby splash against the white poppy seed cream. This dish is truly a jewel. You can easily double the recipe and serve it as a sophisticated main course for a late night supper or special lunch. nuts gave me the idea for these ravioli ”party favors. ” I a.s.sumed that they would taste good, but I was unprepared for how beautiful they are. Some of the juice from the beet filling seeps through the translucent pasta dough and creates a lovely ruby splash against the white poppy seed cream. This dish is truly a jewel. You can easily double the recipe and serve it as a sophisticated main course for a late night supper or special lunch.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43) FILLING AND SAUCE.

pound beets cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 shallot, minced 2 tablespoons ricotta 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil 2 to 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan 8 garlic cloves, peeled 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon poppy seeds 4 teaspoons chopped toasted walnuts 4 beautiful basil leaves for garnish DO AHEAD: Roast the beets. Roast the beets.

1. Following the directions on page 143, roll out half the dough to ravioli thinness (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Cut into eight 34-inch rectangles. Transfer the rectangles to a kitchen towel dusted with flour. Reserve the remaining dough for another use (or roll it into sheets and hand-cut it into irregular shapes. Refrigerate to use in soup or broth the next day.) These ravioli squares don't have to remain moist like cla.s.sic ravioli because they will be cooked individually, like lasagna noodles. If they dry out a little while you're preparing the rest of the recipe, it's okay. Following the directions on page 143, roll out half the dough to ravioli thinness (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Cut into eight 34-inch rectangles. Transfer the rectangles to a kitchen towel dusted with flour. Reserve the remaining dough for another use (or roll it into sheets and hand-cut it into irregular shapes. Refrigerate to use in soup or broth the next day.) These ravioli squares don't have to remain moist like cla.s.sic ravioli because they will be cooked individually, like lasagna noodles. If they dry out a little while you're preparing the rest of the recipe, it's okay.

2. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

3. Toss the beets with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in a small roasting pan and roast for an hour or so, or until tender all the way through. Allow to cool, then peel (see page 103). Leave the oven on. Toss the beets with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in a small roasting pan and roast for an hour or so, or until tender all the way through. Allow to cool, then peel (see page 103). Leave the oven on.

4. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Let cool. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Let cool.

5. Puree the beets in a food processor. Add the ricotta and process to mix well. Transfer to a bowl and add half the shallots, all the chopped basil, and 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper. Puree the beets in a food processor. Add the ricotta and process to mix well. Transfer to a bowl and add half the shallots, all the chopped basil, and 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper.

6. Put the garlic in a small saucepan and cover with 2 inches of water. Season with salt, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until very soft, about 10 minutes. Drain the garlic, rinse, and drain again. Put the garlic in a small saucepan and cover with 2 inches of water. Season with salt, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until very soft, about 10 minutes. Drain the garlic, rinse, and drain again.

7. Heat the cream and garlic in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it starts to bubble. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, skimming the foam and impurities, until the cream has reduced by one-quarter. Transfer the reduced cream and garlic to a blender and puree. Return the garlic cream to the pan. Add the balsamic vinegar, the remaining shallots, and the poppy seeds. Simmer for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Reheat before serving. Heat the cream and garlic in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it starts to bubble. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, skimming the foam and impurities, until the cream has reduced by one-quarter. Transfer the reduced cream and garlic to a blender and puree. Return the garlic cream to the pan. Add the balsamic vinegar, the remaining shallots, and the poppy seeds. Simmer for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Reheat before serving.

8. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Rub a sheet pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the pasta sheets to the boiling water and cook through, about 1 minute. Shock in the ice water, then drain. Lay the pasta sheets on the sheet pan. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Rub a sheet pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the pasta sheets to the boiling water and cook through, about 1 minute. Shock in the ice water, then drain. Lay the pasta sheets on the sheet pan.

9. Put a spoonful of beet filling in the center of each pasta sheet. Roll up starting from a long side and twist the ends to form a bundle. Arrange the bundles side by side on the baking sheet and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Put a spoonful of beet filling in the center of each pasta sheet. Roll up starting from a long side and twist the ends to form a bundle. Arrange the bundles side by side on the baking sheet and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

10. Bake the bundles for 8 minutes, or until heated through. Bake the bundles for 8 minutes, or until heated through.

11. Stir 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan into the sauce. Pour a pool of sauce into the center of each of four warm plates. Arrange 2 bundles on each plate. Sprinkle with the walnuts and a little more Parmesan. Garnish each plate with a basil leaf and serve. Stir 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan into the sauce. Pour a pool of sauce into the center of each of four warm plates. Arrange 2 bundles on each plate. Sprinkle with the walnuts and a little more Parmesan. Garnish each plate with a basil leaf and serve.

Nidimi-”Little Nests” Stuffed with Prosciutto, Fontina, and Spinach Emilia-Romagna is famed for its stuffed pasta dishes, and it was there I saw my first ”little nests. ” The stuffed pasta dishes, and it was there I saw my first ”little nests. ” The nidimi nidimi were chunky pasta bundles, thick as cuc.u.mbers, standing upright in a red pool of smooth tomato sauce, with swirls of green herbed ricotta visible in the upright end, spiraling hypnotically between layers of pasta. The dish immediately struck me as a more elegant, sophisticated take on manicotti, those humble pasta tubes stuffed with a meat or cheese filling. were chunky pasta bundles, thick as cuc.u.mbers, standing upright in a red pool of smooth tomato sauce, with swirls of green herbed ricotta visible in the upright end, spiraling hypnotically between layers of pasta. The dish immediately struck me as a more elegant, sophisticated take on manicotti, those humble pasta tubes stuffed with a meat or cheese filling.

Since then I've applied all kinds of fillings to nidimi; as long as the filling is flat and flexible (like slices of cured meat or grilled eggplant) or easily spread, it will usually work. The trick is to roll the nidimi tightly and reheat them carefully so they don't dry out. One of my favorites is made with grilled eggplant, peppers, spinach, and feta and served with a spicy tomato sauce. This particular version takes the cla.s.sic tagliatelle accompaniments of prosciutto, spinach, and Fontina and reconfigures them as nidimi with a Parmesan cream sauce.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43) Kosher salt FILLING.

8 paper-thin slices prosciutto (about pound) 3 ounces flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried pound semisoft Italian cheese, such as Fontina, fresh Asiago, or Taleggio, thinly sliced SAUCE.

1 cup light cream cup freshly grated Parmesan Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Extra virgin olive oil cup fresh or frozen peas, blanched briefly in boiling salted water 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 teaspoons minced fresh chives 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley DO AHEAD: You can prepare as much or as little of this dish ahead as you like, from simply cooking the pasta sheets to completely filling and rolling the pasta. I like to do everything ahead, leaving only the sauce and the final heating of the nidimi for the day of serving. You can prepare as much or as little of this dish ahead as you like, from simply cooking the pasta sheets to completely filling and rolling the pasta. I like to do everything ahead, leaving only the sauce and the final heating of the nidimi for the day of serving.

1. Following the directions on page 143, roll the dough out in sheets 6 inches wide. Roll the sheets to noodle thickness (the #6 setting). You don't need to let the pasta dry before cutting it. Using a pastry wheel, cut 4 rectangles, each measuring 68 inches. Discard the rest of the pasta. Following the directions on page 143, roll the dough out in sheets 6 inches wide. Roll the sheets to noodle thickness (the #6 setting). You don't need to let the pasta dry before cutting it. Using a pastry wheel, cut 4 rectangles, each measuring 68 inches. Discard the rest of the pasta.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Add the pasta sheets and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is cooked, but still firm, about 1 minute-it's going to bake, so it should still have a little bite to it. Transfer the sheets to the ice bath to cool, stirring them around in the cold water so they don't stick together. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Add the pasta sheets and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is cooked, but still firm, about 1 minute-it's going to bake, so it should still have a little bite to it. Transfer the sheets to the ice bath to cool, stirring them around in the cold water so they don't stick together.

3. Drain each sheet individually in a colander for a minute, then shake off the excess water and lay it on a piece of plastic wrap on a flat work surface. Lay the sheets out so a narrow end of each is toward you. Work quickly; if you leave the pasta sheets in the water too long they'll stick together. Blot any excess water off the pasta with a paper towel. (If you're going to a.s.semble the nidimi later, stack the sheets on top of each other, with a layer of oiled plastic wrap between each one, and on the top and bottom as well. Refrigerate until ready to use.) Drain each sheet individually in a colander for a minute, then shake off the excess water and lay it on a piece of plastic wrap on a flat work surface. Lay the sheets out so a narrow end of each is toward you. Work quickly; if you leave the pasta sheets in the water too long they'll stick together. Blot any excess water off the pasta with a paper towel. (If you're going to a.s.semble the nidimi later, stack the sheets on top of each other, with a layer of oiled plastic wrap between each one, and on the top and bottom as well. Refrigerate until ready to use.) 4. Arrange the prosciutto in a single layer over the sheets of pasta, leaving an empty 2-inch border along the short side farthest from you. Follow the prosciutto with a heavy layer of spinach and then a layer of cheese. The cheese won't cover the spinach completely; just make sure you distribute it as evenly as possible. The next step is to roll up the pasta sheets and filling: Starting at the short edge close to you, roll up each sheet as tightly as you can without tearing the pasta. (Take care not to roll up the plastic wrap with the pasta.) The uncovered strip of pasta will stick to the roll, sealing it. Arrange the prosciutto in a single layer over the sheets of pasta, leaving an empty 2-inch border along the short side farthest from you. Follow the prosciutto with a heavy layer of spinach and then a layer of cheese. The cheese won't cover the spinach completely; just make sure you distribute it as evenly as possible. The next step is to roll up the pasta sheets and filling: Starting at the short edge close to you, roll up each sheet as tightly as you can without tearing the pasta. (Take care not to roll up the plastic wrap with the pasta.) The uncovered strip of pasta will stick to the roll, sealing it.

5. Cut each roll into 3 even pieces, making your cuts straight across the rolls-each piece of nidimi needs to be able to stand upright. (The nidimi can be made up to this point and refrigerated overnight.) Cut each roll into 3 even pieces, making your cuts straight across the rolls-each piece of nidimi needs to be able to stand upright. (The nidimi can be made up to this point and refrigerated overnight.) 6. Preheat the oven to 425F. Preheat the oven to 425F.

7. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat. As soon as the cream is warm, whisk in the Parmesan and keep whisking until it has completely melted. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat. As soon as the cream is warm, whisk in the Parmesan and keep whisking until it has completely melted. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

8. Brush a baking dish with extra virgin olive oil. Stand the nidimi on their ends in the baking dish. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons water around the nidimi. Cover the nidimi with a layer of plastic wrap (tuck the edges inside the dish) and a layer of foil (crimped over the edges of the dish). Bake until the rolls are hot and the cheese has started to melt, about 15 minutes. Brush a baking dish with extra virgin olive oil. Stand the nidimi on their ends in the baking dish. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons water around the nidimi. Cover the nidimi with a layer of plastic wrap (tuck the edges inside the dish) and a layer of foil (crimped over the edges of the dish). Bake until the rolls are hot and the cheese has started to melt, about 15 minutes.

9. Add the peas, lemon juice, and herbs to the sauce and warm through. Make a small pool of sauce on each of four warmed plates. Arrange 3 nidimi in the center of each plate. Serve immediately. Add the peas, lemon juice, and herbs to the sauce and warm through. Make a small pool of sauce on each of four warmed plates. Arrange 3 nidimi in the center of each plate. Serve immediately.

Fazzoletti-”Handkerchiefs” with Lemon Cream, Pistachios, Spinach, and Slow-Roasted Tomatoes Fazzoletti, handkerchiefs in Italian, is a reference to the similarity between these folded pasta sheets and the dapper two- or three-pointer that used to grace the breast pockets of men's suit coats. A couple of generations from now, will anyone still make the connection? I latched on to this dish because it's a quick and elegant alternative to ravioli. The spinach is put in the center of large pasta squares, then each square is folded in half to make a triangle, then folded again to make a smaller triangle. The ”handkerchiefs” are then baked briefly in a lemon cream with the slow-roasted tomatoes and pistachios. It almost makes you wish for the return of snap-brim fedoras. in Italian, is a reference to the similarity between these folded pasta sheets and the dapper two- or three-pointer that used to grace the breast pockets of men's suit coats. A couple of generations from now, will anyone still make the connection? I latched on to this dish because it's a quick and elegant alternative to ravioli. The spinach is put in the center of large pasta squares, then each square is folded in half to make a triangle, then folded again to make a smaller triangle. The ”handkerchiefs” are then baked briefly in a lemon cream with the slow-roasted tomatoes and pistachios. It almost makes you wish for the return of snap-brim fedoras.

If you don't have any slow-roasted tomatoes, you can subst.i.tute regular cherry tomatoes, but the effect will be milder.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 3 medium shallots, 1 minced, 2 thinly sliced 1 cup heavy cream Grated zest of 1 lemon Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried recipe Fresh Pasta (see pages 142-43) recipe Slow-Roasted Tomatoes (page 117), using 12 cherry tomatoes or 6 plum tomatoes 2 tablespoons pistachios, toasted (see page 16) and coa.r.s.ely chopped cup freshly grated Parmesan 1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and lemon zest and simmer until reduced by one-quarter. Skim off the foam that collects on top of the cream. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced shallot and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and lemon zest and simmer until reduced by one-quarter. Skim off the foam that collects on top of the cream. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

2. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the sliced shallots and cook until they just begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes (they'll cook faster than the other shallot because the pan is hotter). Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and stir until wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the sliced shallots and cook until they just begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes (they'll cook faster than the other shallot because the pan is hotter). Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and stir until wilted, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool.

3. Roll out the pasta according to the directions on pages 142-43 until thin enough for ravioli (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Lay the pasta sheets out on a floured countertop and use a pastry wheel to cut out 12 squares measuring 5 to 6 inches on a side. Discard the rest of the pasta. These ravioli squares don't have to remain moist like cla.s.sic ravioli because they're cooked individually, like lasagna noodles. If they dry out a little while you're bringing the water to a boil, it's okay. Roll out the pasta according to the directions on pages 142-43 until thin enough for ravioli (the #7 or #8 setting, depending on your machine). Lay the pasta sheets out on a floured countertop and use a pastry wheel to cut out 12 squares measuring 5 to 6 inches on a side. Discard the rest of the pasta. These ravioli squares don't have to remain moist like cla.s.sic ravioli because they're cooked individually, like lasagna noodles. If they dry out a little while you're bringing the water to a boil, it's okay.

4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Season with salt and add the pasta squares to the boiling water, stirring constantly, until cooked, about 1 minute. Scoop the pasta squares out of the pot and plunge them into the ice water, stirring until cool. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water. Season with salt and add the pasta squares to the boiling water, stirring constantly, until cooked, about 1 minute. Scoop the pasta squares out of the pot and plunge them into the ice water, stirring until cool.

5. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

6. If using plum tomatoes, cut each half into 4 pieces. Coat the bottom of a shallow 2-quart gratin dish with cup of the lemon cream. Distribute 12 cherry tomato halves or 12 pieces of plum tomatoes over the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the pistachios. If using plum tomatoes, cut each half into 4 pieces. Coat the bottom of a shallow 2-quart gratin dish with cup of the lemon cream. Distribute 12 cherry tomato halves or 12 pieces of plum tomatoes over the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the pistachios.

7. Remove the pasta squares from the cold water, drain, and lay them out on a flat work surface covered with plastic wrap. Put a spoonful of spinach in the center of each square. To make the fazzoletti, fold each square in half to make a triangle, then fold in half again to make a smaller triangle. Arrange the fazzoletti in overlapping rows in the gratin dish. Pour the remaining sauce over the pasta. Scatter the remaining tomatoes over the top, and sprinkle with the remaining pistachios and the Parmesan. Remove the pasta squares from the cold water, drain, and lay them out on a flat work surface covered with plastic wrap. Put a spoonful of spinach in the center of each square. To make the fazzoletti, fold each square in half to make a triangle, then fold in half again to make a smaller triangle. Arrange the fazzoletti in overlapping rows in the gratin dish. Pour the remaining sauce over the pasta. Scatter the remaining tomatoes over the top, and sprinkle with the remaining pistachios and the Parmesan.

8. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the fazzoletti are brown and crispy. Serve immediately. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the fazzoletti are brown and crispy. Serve immediately.

Semolina Gnocchi with Red Wine Mushroom Sauce and Roasted Marrowbones Semolina gnocchi, with their light, puffy texture, cheesy crust, and pa.s.sage from the stovetop to the oven seem more related to polenta (which is also cooked on top of the stove, allowed to firm up, and then may be baked) than to cla.s.sic potato gnocchi, which are poached. For sheer versatility, they have few rivals. Accompanied by a red wine and mushroom sauce, as in this recipe, they serve as an elegant first course; without the sauce, they're a side dish for rabbit or veal. At home, my husband likes them as a main course, either with this sauce or a wild mushroom ragout. You can even serve them as an hors d'oeuvre-cut them into canape-sized diamonds, top with cheese, and bake without layering. puffy texture, cheesy crust, and pa.s.sage from the stovetop to the oven seem more related to polenta (which is also cooked on top of the stove, allowed to firm up, and then may be baked) than to cla.s.sic potato gnocchi, which are poached. For sheer versatility, they have few rivals. Accompanied by a red wine and mushroom sauce, as in this recipe, they serve as an elegant first course; without the sauce, they're a side dish for rabbit or veal. At home, my husband likes them as a main course, either with this sauce or a wild mushroom ragout. You can even serve them as an hors d'oeuvre-cut them into canape-sized diamonds, top with cheese, and bake without layering.

I've simplified the traditional marrow and mushroom sauce by creating a separate easy recipe for Roasted Marrowbones. Most people's experiences with marrow are confined to os...o...b..co, but in this dish you get a beef bone three times the size of an ordinary veal shank, with a triple portion of marrow. The marrowbones require very little effort and the marrow is such a creamy treat when spooned over the gnocchi that you owe it to yourself to try them. If you double the gnocchi recipe (use a shallow oval 2-quart ca.s.serole dish instead of a pie plate to bake the gnocchi) and add the marrowbones, you will have a stylish entree.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER OR, WITHOUT THE SAUCE, SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

GNOCCHI.