Part 7 (1/2)

Kermes consists of the dried bodies of a small scale insect, _Coccus ilicis_, found principally on the ilex oak, in the South of Europe, and still used there

William Morris speaks of the ”Al-kermes or coccus which produces with an ordinary aluood dose of acid a full scarlet, which is the scarlet of the Middle Ages, and was used till about the year 1656, when a Dutch che a scarlet frohter and uglier scarlet”

Kermes is employed exactly like cochineal It has a pleasant aroives to the hen dyed with it

_COCHINEAL_

The dried red bodies of an insect (_Coccus Cacti_) found in Mexico are named Cochineal

(1) PURPLE, CRIMSON AND SCARLET

(For 1 lb wool) Mordant with bi+chromate of Potash (3) Dye for 1 to 2 hours with 3 oz to 6 oz cochineal With aluot With tin mordant (10) a scarlet With iron mordant (6) a purplish slate or lilac

(2) SCARLET

Mordant with 6 per cent Stannous Chloride and 4 per cent Crea 1 hour Dye with 15 to 20 per cent Cochineal, boil for 1 hour

Enter in both mordant and dye bath, cool, and raise slowly to the boil To obtain a yellow shade of scarlet, a small quantity of Flavin, Fustic, or other yellow dye may be added to the dye bath

(3) SCARLET

(1 lb) Into the same bath, put 1 oz tin, 1/8 oz oxalic acid, 4 oz

cochineal Enter silk and boil for 1 hour With less oxalic acid, a less scarlet colour will be obtained

(4) CRIMSON

Mordant with 20 per cent alum or with 15 per cent alum and 5 per cent Tartar Dye in separate bath, after ashi+ng, with 8 to 15 per cent cochineal Boil 1 hour A slight addition of ammonia to the dye bath renders the shade bluer

(5) ROSE RED

(1 lb) Mordant with Alum Dye with 2 oz Madder, 2-1/2 ozs

Cochineal, 1/4 oz Oxalic Acid and 1/2 oz tin

(6) PURPLE (for 5 lbs)

Mordant with 3 ozs Chrome Wash Dye for 2 to 3 hours with 13 ozs

Cochineal, which has been boiled for 10 ar added to the dye bath helps the colour

Wash thoroughly

_MADDER_

Madder consists of the ground-up dried roots of a plant _Rubia tinctorum_, cultivated in France, Holland and other parts of Europe, as well as in India Madder is one of the best and fastest dyes It is used also in combination with other dyes to produce co of the temperature of the dye bath is essential in order to develop the full colouring power ofshould be avoided, as it dulls the colour If the water is deficient in liround chalk to the dye bath, 1 to 2 per cent

Madder is difficult to dye as it easily rubs off and the following points should be noted