Part 12 (1/2)

On the strength of the old proverb, ”Sugar has never spoiled sauce,” sugar was put into all sauces which were not _piquantes_, and generally some perfumed water was added to them, such as rose-water. This was made in great quant.i.ties by exposing to the sun a basin full of water, covered over by another basin of gla.s.s, under which was a little vase containing rose-leaves. This rose-water was added to all stews, pastries, and beverages. It is very doubtful as to the period at which white lump sugar became known in the West. However, in an account of the house of the Dauphin Viennois (1333) mention is made of ”white sugar;” and the author of the ”Menagier de Paris” frequently speaks of this white sugar, which, before the discovery, or rather colonisation, of America, was brought, ready refined, from the Grecian islands, and especially from Candia.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 123.--The _Issue de Table_.--Fac-simile of a Woodcut in the Treatise of Christoforo di Messisburgo, ”Banchetti compositioni di Vivende,” 4to., Ferrara, 1549.]

Verjuice, or green juice, which, with vinegar, formed the essential basis of sauces, and is now extracted from a species of green grape, which never ripens, was originally the juice of sorrel; another sort was extracted by pounding the green blades of wheat. Vinegar was originally merely soured wine, as the word _vin-aigre_ denotes. The mode of manufacturing it by artificial means, in order to render the taste more pungent and the quality better, is very ancient. It is needless to state that it was scented by the infusion of herbs or flowers--roses, elder, cloves, &c.; but it was not much before the sixteenth century that it was used for pickling herbs or fruits and vegetables, such as gherkins, onions, cuc.u.mber, purslain, &c.

Salt, which from the remotest periods was the condiment _par excellence_, and the trade in which had been free up to the fourteenth century, became, from that period, the subject of repeated taxation. The levying of these taxes was a frequent cause of tumult amongst the people, who saw with marked displeasure the exigencies of the excise gradually raising the price of an article of primary necessity. We have already mentioned times during which the price of salt was so exorbitant that the rich alone could put it in their bread. Thus, in the reign of Francis I., it was almost as dear as Indian spices.

Sweet Dishes, Desserts, &c.--In the fourteenth century, the first courses of a repast were called _mets_ or _a.s.siettes_; the last, ”_entremets, dorures, issue de table, desserte_, and _boule-hors_.”

The dessert consisted generally of baked pears, medlars, pealed walnuts, figs, dates, peaches, grapes, filberts, spices, and white or red sugar-plums.

At the _issue de table_ wafers or some other light pastry were introduced, which were eaten with the hypocras wine. The _boute-hors,_ which was served when the guests, after having washed their hands and said grace, had pa.s.sed into the drawing-room, consisted of spices, different from those which had appeared at dessert, and intended specially to a.s.sist the digestion; and for this object they must have been much needed, considering that a repast lasted several hours. Whilst eating these spices they drank Grenache, Malmsey, or aromatic wines (Fig. 123).

It was only at the banquets and great repeats that sweet dishes and _dorures_ appeared, and they seem to have been introduced for the purpose of exhibiting the power of the imagination and the talent in execution of the master-cook.

The _dorures_ consisted of jellies of all sorts and colours; swans, peac.o.c.ks, bitterns, and herons, on gala feasts, were served in full feather on a raised platform in the middle of the table, and hence the name of ”raised dishes.” As for the side-dishes, properly so called, the long list collected in the ”Menagier” shows us that they were served at table indiscriminately, for stuffed chickens at times followed hashed porpoise in sauce, lark pies succeeded lamb sausages, and pike's-eggs fritters appeared after orange preserve.

At a later period the luxury of side-dishes consisted in the quant.i.ty and in the variety of the pastry; Rabelais names sixteen different sorts at one repast; Taillevent mentions pastry called _covered pastry, Bourbonnaise pastry, double-faced pastry, pear pastry_, and _apple pastry_; Platina speaks of the _white pastry_ with quince, elder flowers, rice, roses, chestnuts, &c. The fas.h.i.+on of having pastry is, however, of very ancient date, for in the book of the ”Proverbs” of the thirteenth century, we find that the pies of Dourlens and the pastry of Chartres were then in great celebrity.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 124.--The Table of a Baron, as laid out in the Thirteenth Century.--Miniature from the ”Histoire de St. Graal”

(Ma.n.u.script from the Imperial Library, Paris).]

In a charter of Robert le Bouillon, Bishop of Amiens, in 1311, mention is made of a cake composed of puff flaky paste; these cakes, however, are less ancient than the firm pastry called bean cake, or king's cake, which, from the earliest days of monarchy, appeared on all the tables, not only at the feast of the Epiphany, but also on every festive occasion.

Amongst the dry and sweet pastries from the small oven which appeared at the _issue de table_, the first to be noticed were those made of almonds, nuts, &c., and such choice morsels, which were very expensive; then came the cream or cheesecakes, the _pet.i.ts choux_, made of b.u.t.ter and eggs; the _echaudes_, of which the people were very fond, and St. Louis even allowed the bakers to cook them on Sundays and feast days for the poor; wafers, which are older than the thirteenth century; and lastly the _oublies_, which, under the names of _nieules, esterets_, and _supplications_, gave rise to such an extensive trade that a corporation was established in Paris, called the _oublayeurs, oublayers,_ or _oublieux_, whose statutes directed that none should be admitted to exercise the trade unless he was able to make in one day 500 large _oublies_, 300 _supplications_, and 200 _esterets_.

Repasts and Feasts.

We have had to treat elsewhere of the rules and regulations of the repasts under the Merovingian and Carlovingian kings. We have also spoken of the table service of the thirteenth century (see chapter on ”Private Life”).

The earliest author who has left us any doc.u.ments on this curious subject is that excellent bourgeois to whom we owe the ”Menagier de Paris.” He describes, for instance, in its fullest details, a repast which was given in the fourteenth century by the Abbe de Lagny, to the Bishop of Paris, the President of the Parliament, the King's attorney and advocate, and other members of his council, in all sixteen guests. We find from this account that ”my lord of Paris, occupying the place of honour, was, in consequence of his rank, served on covered dishes by three of his squires, as was the custom for the King, the royal princes, the dukes, and peers; that Master President, who was seated by the side of the bishop, was also served by one of his own servants, but on uncovered dishes, and the other guests were seated at table according to the order indicated by their t.i.tles or charges.”

The bill of fare of this feast, which was given on a fast-day, is the more worthy of attention, in that it proves to us what numerous resources cookery already possessed. This was especially the case as regards fish, notwithstanding that the transport of fresh sea-fish was so difficult, owing to the bad state of the roads.

First, a quarter of a pint of Grenache was given to each guest on sitting down, then ”hot _eschaudes_, roast apples with white sugar-plums upon them, roasted figs, sorrel and watercress, and rosemary.”

”Soups.--A rich soup, composed of six trout, six tenches, white herring, freshwater eels, salted twenty-four hours, and three whiting, soaked twelve hours; almonds, ginger, saffron, cinnamon powder and sweetmeats.

”Salt-Water Fish.--Soles, gurnets, congers, turbots, and salmon.

”Fresh-Water Fish.--_Lux faudis_ (pike with roe), carps from the Marne, breams.

”Side-Dishes.--Lampreys _a la boee_, orange-apples (one for each guest), porpoise with sauce, mackerel, soles, bream, and shad _a la cameline_, with verjuice, rice and fried almonds upon them; sugar and apples.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 125.--Officers of the Table and of the Chamber of the Imperial Court: Cup-bearer, Cook, Barber, and Tailor, from a Picture in the ”Triomphe de Maximilien T.,” engraved by J. Resch, Burgmayer, and others (1512), from Drawings by Albert Durer.]

”Dessert.--Stewed fruit with white and vermilion sugar-plums; figs, dates, grapes, and filberts.

”Hypocras for _issue de table_, with _oublies_ and _supplications_.