Part 11 (1/2)

”Soupe la soir, soupe le matin, C'est l'ordinaire du bon chretien.”

(”Soup in the evening, and soup in the morning, Is the everyday food of a good Christian.”)

The cooking apparatus of that period consisted of a whole glittering array of cauldrons, saucepans, kettles, and vessels of red and yellow copper, which hardly sufficed for all the rich soups for which France was so famous. Thence the old proverb, ”En France sont les grands soupiers.”

But besides these soups, which were in fact looked upon as ”common, and without spice,” a number of dishes were served under the generic name of soup, which const.i.tuted the princ.i.p.al luxuries at the great tables in the fourteenth century, but which do not altogether bear out the names under which we find them. For instance, there was haricot mutton, a sort of stew; thin chicken broth; veal broth with herbs; soup made of veal, roe, stag, wild boar, pork, hare and rabbit soup flavoured with green peas, &c.

The greater number of these soups were very rich, very expensive, several being served at the same time; and in order to please the eye as well as the taste they were generally made of various colours, sweetened with sugar, and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and aromatic herbs, such as marjoram, sage, thyme, sweet basil, savoury, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 114.--Coppersmith, designed and engraved in the Sixteenth Century by J. Amman.]

These descriptions of soups were perfect luxuries, and were taken instead of sweets. As a proof of this we must refer to the famous _soupe doree_, the description of which is given by Taillevent, head cook of Charles VII., in the following words, ”Toast slices of bread, throw them into a jelly made of sugar, white wine, yolk of egg, and rosewater; when they are well soaked fry them, then throw them again into the rosewater and sprinkle them with sugar and saffron.”

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 115.--Kitchen and Table Uensils:--

1, Carving-knife (Sixteenth Century); 2, Chalice or Cup, with Cover (Fourteenth Century); 3, Doubled-handled Pot, in Copper (Ninth Century); 4, Metal Boiler, or Tin Pot, taken from ”L'Histoire de la Belle Helaine”

(Fifteenth Century); 5, Knife (Sixteenth Century); 6, Pot, with Handles (Fourteenth Century); 7, Copper Boiler, taken from ”L'Histoire de la Belle Helaine” (Fifteenth Century); 8, Ewer, with Handle, in Oriental Fas.h.i.+on (Ninth Century); 9, Pitcher, sculptured, from among the Decorations of the Church of St.

Benedict, Paris (Fifteenth Century); 10, Two-branched Candlestick (Sixteenth Century); 11, Cauldron (Fifteenth Century).

It is possible that even now this kind of soup might find some favour; but we cannot say the same for those made with mustard, hemp-seed, millet, verjuice, and a number of others much in repute at that period; for we see in Rabelais that the French were the greatest soup eaters in the world, and boasted to be the inventors of seventy sorts.

We have already remarked that broths were in use at the remotest periods, for, from the time that the practice of boiling various meats was first adopted, it must have been discovered that the water in which they were so boiled became savoury and nouris.h.i.+ng. ”In the time of the great King Francis I.,” says Noel du Fail, in his ”Contes d'Eutrapel,” ”in many places the saucepan was put on to the table, on which there was only one other large dish, of beef, mutton, veal, and bacon, garnished with a large bunch of cooked herbs, the whole of which mixture composed a porridge, and a real restorer and elixir of life. From this came the adage, 'The soup in the great pot and the dainties in the hotch-potch.'”

At one time they made what they imagined to be strengthening broths for invalids, though their virtue must have been somewhat delusive, for, after having boiled down various materials in a close kettle and at a slow fire, they then distilled from this, and the water thus obtained was administered as a sovereign remedy. The common sense of Bernard Palissy did not fail to make him see this absurdity, and to protest against this ridiculous custom: ”Take a capon,” he says, ”a partridge, or anything else, cook it well, and then if you smell the broth you will find it very good, and if you taste it you will find it has plenty of flavour; so much so that you will feel that it contains something to invigorate you. Distil this, on the contrary, and take the water then collected and taste it, and you will find it insipid, and without smell except that of burning. This should convince you that your restorer does not give that nourishment to the weak body for which you recommend it as a means of making good blood, and restoring and strengthening the spirits.”

The taste for broths made of flour was formerly almost universal in France and over the whole of Europe; it is spoken of repeatedly in the histories and annals of monasteries; and we know that the Normans, who made it their princ.i.p.al nutriment, were surnamed _bouilleux_. They were indeed almost like the Romans who in olden times, before their wars with eastern nations, gave up making bread, and ate their corn simply boiled in water.

In the fourteenth century the broths and soups were made with millet-flour and mixed wheats. The pure wheat flour was steeped in milk seasoned with sugar, saffron, honey, sweet wine or aromatic herbs, and sometimes b.u.t.ter, fat, and yolks of eggs were added. It was on account of this that the bread of the ancients so much resembled cakes, and it was also from this fact that the art of the pastrycook took its rise.

Wheat made into gruel for a long time was an important ingredient in cooking, being the basis of a famous preparation called _fromentee_, which was a _bouillie_ of milk, made creamy by the addition of yolks of eggs, and which served as a liquor in which to roast meats and fish. There were, besides, several sorts of _fromentee_, all equally esteemed, and Taillevent recommended the following receipt, which differs from the one above given:--”First boil your wheat in water, then put into it the juice or gravy of fat meat, or, if you like it better, milk of almonds, and by this means you will make a soup fit for fasts, because it dissolves slowly, is of slow digestion and nourishes much. In this way, too, you can make _ordiat_, or barley soup, which is more generally approved than the said _fromentee_.”

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 116.--Interior of a Kitchen.--Fac-simile from a Woodcut in the ”Calendarium Romanum” of J. Staeffler, folio, Tubingen, 1518.]

Semolina, vermicelli, macaroni, &c., which were called Italian because they originally came from that country, have been in use in France longer than is generally supposed. They were first introduced after the expedition of Charles VIII. into Italy, and the conquest of the kingdom of Naples; that is, in the reign of Louis XII., or the first years of the sixteenth century.

Pies, Stews, Roasts, Salads, &c.--Pastry made with fat, which might be supposed to have been the invention of modern kitchens, was in great repute amongst our ancestors. The manufacture of sweet and savoury pastry was intrusted to the care of the good _menagiers_ of all ranks and conditions, and to the corporation of pastrycooks, who obtained their statutes only in the middle of the sixteenth century; the united skill of these, both in Paris and in the provinces, multiplied the different sorts of tarts and meat pies to a very great extent. So much was this the case that these ingenious productions became a special art, worthy of rivalling even cookery itself (Figs. 117, 118, and 130). One of the earliest known receipts for making pies is that of Gaces de la Bigne, first chaplain of Kings John, Charles V., and Charles VI. We find it in a sporting poem, and it deserves to be quoted verbatim as a record of the royal kitchen of the fourteenth century. It will be observed on perusing it that nothing was spared either in pastry or in cookery, and that expense was not considered when it was a question of satisfying the appet.i.te.

”Trois perdriaulx gros et reffais Au milieu du pate me mets; Mais gardes bien que tu ne failles A moi prendre six grosses cailles, De quoi tu les apuyeras.

Et puis apres tu me prendras Une douzaine d'alouetes Qu'environ les cailles me mettes, Et puis pendras de ces maches Et de ces pet.i.ts oiseles: Selon ce que tu en auras, Le pate m'en billeteras.

Or te fault faire pourveance D'un pen de lart, sans point de rance, Que tu tailleras comme de: S'en sera le paste pouldre.

S tu le veux de bonne guise, Du vertjus la grappe y soit mise, D'un bien peu de sel soit pouldre ...

... Fay mettre des oeufs en la paste, Les croutes un peu rudement Faictes de flour de pur froment ...

... N'y mets espices ni fromaige ...

Au four bien a point chaud le met, Qui de cendre ait l'atre bien net; E quand sera bien a point cuit, I n'est si bon mangier, ce cuit.”

(”Put me in the middle of the pie three young partridges large and fat; But take good care not to fail to take six fine quail to put by their side.

After that you must take a dozen skylarks, which round the quail you must place; And then you must take some thrushes and such other little birds as you can get to garnish the pie.