Part 3 (1/2)

For the Dumpling2/3 cup graham flour cup graham flour1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg cup milk cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) cup mola.s.ses1 large egg, beaten4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted1 tablespoon finely grated fresh gingerGrated zest of 1 small lemonFor CookingUnsalted b.u.t.ter to coat the cake panEquipment2-inch-high steamer rackPot large enough to hold both the rack and the pan when covered9-inch round cake pan 1. Place the steamer rack in the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little b.u.t.ter around the inside of the cake pan. Place the steamer rack in the pot, add 1 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little b.u.t.ter around the inside of the cake pan.

2. Combine the flours, baking soda, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Mix together the milk, muscovado sugar, mola.s.ses, egg, melted b.u.t.ter, grated ginger, and lemon zest in a medium bowl. Pour the milk mixture into the flour mixture and stir until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and give it a gentle shake to level it off. Combine the flours, baking soda, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Mix together the milk, muscovado sugar, mola.s.ses, egg, melted b.u.t.ter, grated ginger, and lemon zest in a medium bowl. Pour the milk mixture into the flour mixture and stir until just combined. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and give it a gentle shake to level it off.

3. Carefully place the filled pan on the steamer rack, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 30 minutes. Carefully place the filled pan on the steamer rack, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 30 minutes.

4. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the gingerbread to cool slightly. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature. Gingerbread can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the gingerbread to cool slightly. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature. Gingerbread can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS).

A Wealth of Steamed Rice m.u.f.fins Fot Gao (China) (China) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 12 ( 12 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Fot gao means ”fortune cake,” and it's said that the more the tops of these tasty rice cakes bloom open during steaming, the greater your fortunes will blossom in the coming year. Chinese brown slab sugar is available at many Asian groceries, and is used to add a mild sweetness. If you have trouble finding it, you can add another cup of the muscovado sugar. These dumplings are a.s.sociated primarily with the Chinese New Year, but we admit to making them anytime we want a light, sweet snack. means ”fortune cake,” and it's said that the more the tops of these tasty rice cakes bloom open during steaming, the greater your fortunes will blossom in the coming year. Chinese brown slab sugar is available at many Asian groceries, and is used to add a mild sweetness. If you have trouble finding it, you can add another cup of the muscovado sugar. These dumplings are a.s.sociated primarily with the Chinese New Year, but we admit to making them anytime we want a light, sweet snack.

For the Dumplings4 ounces Chinese brown slab sugar, chopped coa.r.s.e, or cup other unrefined sugar (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) cup light muscovado or other unrefined sugar1 cups white rice flour, preferably from China or Thailand2 tablespoons baking powderEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot12 individual baking cups12 paper baking cups 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Place the sugars in a small saucepan, pour in 1 cups water, and heat over medium heat. Stir, crus.h.i.+ng apart any chunks of sugar with the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat as soon as the sugar has dissolved, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour the sugar mixture into a bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature. Place the sugars in a small saucepan, pour in 1 cups water, and heat over medium heat. Stir, crus.h.i.+ng apart any chunks of sugar with the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat as soon as the sugar has dissolved, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour the sugar mixture into a bowl and allow it to cool to room temperature.

2. Combine the rice flour and the baking powder in a large bowl. Pour in the cooled sugar syrup and stir until the batter is completely smooth. It will be very thin. Pour the batter into a container with a spout for pouring. Combine the rice flour and the baking powder in a large bowl. Pour in the cooled sugar syrup and stir until the batter is completely smooth. It will be very thin. Pour the batter into a container with a spout for pouring.

3. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the individual baking cups with the paper baking cups. Arrange as many of the lined cups in the basket as you can. Pour just enough batter into each cup to fill them two-thirds full. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam on high heat for 15 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the individual baking cups with the paper baking cups. Arrange as many of the lined cups in the basket as you can. Pour just enough batter into each cup to fill them two-thirds full. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam on high heat for 15 minutes.

4. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the fot gao fot gao to cool slightly. Remove them from the individual baking cups and arrange them on a plate. Cook any remaining batter. Serve warm or at room temperature. to cool slightly. Remove them from the individual baking cups and arrange them on a plate. Cook any remaining batter. Serve warm or at room temperature. Fot gao Fot gao can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS).

Steamed Bread Rolls Mantou (China) (China) SERVES 3 3 TO TO 4 ( 4 (MAKES 6 6 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The ever-popular steamed bun of China is prized for its unique consistency and slightly sweet flavor. Bite into any well-made mantou mantou and you'll notice a delicate balance of tenderness and chew. This pleasant bite is the result of a stretchy yeast dough that's been mellowed with baking powder and vegetable shortening. Traditionally, lard is used but vegetable shortening offers a cleaner, more neutral flavor. This same dough is used for other filled steamed buns in this book, including the and you'll notice a delicate balance of tenderness and chew. This pleasant bite is the result of a stretchy yeast dough that's been mellowed with baking powder and vegetable shortening. Traditionally, lard is used but vegetable shortening offers a cleaner, more neutral flavor. This same dough is used for other filled steamed buns in this book, including the Zhu Rou Baozi Zhu Rou Baozi (May), (May), Xiang Gu Baozi Xiang Gu Baozi (May), and (May), and Nuo Mi Juan Nuo Mi Juan (February). (February).

These dumplings are made using the Jelly-Roll Shape.

For the Dumplings cup warm milk or water1 teaspoons active dry yeast (about packet)1 tablespoons sugar1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 tablespoon nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening or lard1 teaspoon baking powder teaspoon saltFor CookingGrapeseed or other neutral oil to coat the steamer basketEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. PROOF THE YEAST PROOF THE YEAST: Pour the milk into a small bowl, stir in the yeast and the sugar, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet. Pour the milk into a small bowl, stir in the yeast and the sugar, and proof for 15 minutes. The surface should become foamy. If not, start again with a new yeast packet.

2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the yeast proofs, put 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the yeast mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. While the yeast proofs, put 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the yeast mixture and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours. The dough will double in size. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is not ideal. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be soft and tacky. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours. The dough will double in size. Use the Proofing Pot Setup (TIPS) if the temperature of the room is not ideal.

4. Punch down the dough, place it on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Sprinkle with flour if it gets a little sticky. Pat the dough into a small round, about 8 inches across. Pinch the shortening into small bits and dot them across the surface of the dough round. Sprinkle the baking powder and salt over the top. Fold the dough over, enveloping the shortening, then roll it back into a ball. Knead until the shortening has been incorporated and the dough is smooth and elastic. If bits of the shortening ooze out, sprinkle that area with a little flour and continue kneading. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let the dough rest for 15 minutes. Punch down the dough, place it on a floured surface, and knead once or twice. Sprinkle with flour if it gets a little sticky. Pat the dough into a small round, about 8 inches across. Pinch the shortening into small bits and dot them across the surface of the dough round. Sprinkle the baking powder and salt over the top. Fold the dough over, enveloping the shortening, then roll it back into a ball. Knead until the shortening has been incorporated and the dough is smooth and elastic. If bits of the shortening ooze out, sprinkle that area with a little flour and continue kneading. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let the dough rest for 15 minutes.

At this point, the dough can also be used for the Zhu Rou Baozi, Xiang Gu Baozi Zhu Rou Baozi, Xiang Gu Baozi, or Nuo Mi Juan Nuo Mi Juan.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the mantou, mantou, review the Jelly-Roll Shape. review the Jelly-Roll Shape.

6. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and set aside. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and set aside.

7. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, shape it into a blunt log, then roll it out into an 8-inch square. Brush the surface of the square with a little water. Starting at any side, begin to roll up the dough. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Use your hands to roll the log back and forth until it's 12 inches long. Cut the log into 6 equal pieces. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, shape it into a blunt log, then roll it out into an 8-inch square. Brush the surface of the square with a little water. Starting at any side, begin to roll up the dough. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Use your hands to roll the log back and forth until it's 12 inches long. Cut the log into 6 equal pieces.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Coat the bottom of the basket with oil and arrange as many of the dumplings as you can, seam side down, leaving about 1 inch of s.p.a.ce around each. Cover any dumplings waiting to be cooked with a cloth. Coat the bottom of the basket with oil and arrange as many of the dumplings as you can, seam side down, leaving about 1 inch of s.p.a.ce around each. Cover any dumplings waiting to be cooked with a cloth.

9. Bring the water in the steamer pot to a boil over high heat. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 20 minutes. Bring the water in the steamer pot to a boil over high heat. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium-high, and steam for 20 minutes.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the mantou mantou to cool slightly. Move them to a plate. Cook any remaining to cool slightly. Move them to a plate. Cook any remaining mantou mantou. Serve warm or at room temperature. Mantou Mantou can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (see TIPS) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (see TIPS) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (TIPS). If reheating frozen mantou mantou, allow them to thaw before steaming.

”Priest Stranglers” with Brown b.u.t.ter and Sage Strangolapreti (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 48 48 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Dumplings known as strangolapreti strangolapreti differ greatly throughout Italy. Spinach, chard, or other leafy greens worked into the dough are, however, often considered a defining characteristic. One popular type from northern Italy starts by soaking bits of day-old bread in spinach-water. Flour and spinach are then added to create a soft, easy-to-roll dough. The dumplings are vibrant in color and stand out as a special offering on any table. differ greatly throughout Italy. Spinach, chard, or other leafy greens worked into the dough are, however, often considered a defining characteristic. One popular type from northern Italy starts by soaking bits of day-old bread in spinach-water. Flour and spinach are then added to create a soft, easy-to-roll dough. The dumplings are vibrant in color and stand out as a special offering on any table.

For the Dumplings1 large bunch spinach, stemmed, rinsed, and hand-wilted (see TIPS)10 cups -inch crustless white bread cubes (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS)2 large eggs, beaten2 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dustingFor the Sauce3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks8 to 10 fresh sage leaves1 garlic clove, chopped very fineFor Serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheeseSalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteEquipmentLarge plate or tray to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Gather up half of the wilted spinach, hold it over the bowl, and squeeze out as much juice as you can. Place the squeezed spinach on a cutting board and repeat with the remaining spinach in the bowl. Pour the collected juice into a measuring cup. Add cool water to the juice until you have 1 cup of liquid. Gather up half of the wilted spinach, hold it over the bowl, and squeeze out as much juice as you can. Place the squeezed spinach on a cutting board and repeat with the remaining spinach in the bowl. Pour the collected juice into a measuring cup. Add cool water to the juice until you have 1 cup of liquid.

2. Finely chop the spinach, place it back into the bowl, add the bread cubes, and pour in the spinach-water. Work the mixture together by squis.h.i.+ng it through your fingers until all of the bread has been broken down into a pulp. Mix in the eggs, salt, nutmeg, and the cup of Parmesan. Add cup of the flour and keep the remaining cup handy. Work the mixture into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Finely chop the spinach, place it back into the bowl, add the bread cubes, and pour in the spinach-water. Work the mixture together by squis.h.i.+ng it through your fingers until all of the bread has been broken down into a pulp. Mix in the eggs, salt, nutmeg, and the cup of Parmesan. Add cup of the flour and keep the remaining cup handy. Work the mixture into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

3. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

4. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Place the ball on a floured surface, roll into a rope about 4 inches long with tapered ends (a cigar shape), dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough, keeping the dumplings in a single layer on the tray. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Place the ball on a floured surface, roll into a rope about 4 inches long with tapered ends (a cigar shape), dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough, keeping the dumplings in a single layer on the tray.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

6. Carefully drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Carefully drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Cook until all of them are floating, about 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer.

7. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, scatter them around the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon, scatter them around the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid.

8. MAKE THE SAUCE MAKE THE SAUCE: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sage leaves and garlic and cook until the garlic just begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Drain the Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sage leaves and garlic and cook until the garlic just begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Drain the strangolapreti strangolapreti and add them to the b.u.t.ter sauce. Toss and stir gently until the edges just begin to brown. Remove from the heat, mix in the cup of Parmesan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. and add them to the b.u.t.ter sauce. Toss and stir gently until the edges just begin to brown. Remove from the heat, mix in the cup of Parmesan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

Potato Gnocchi Gnocchi di Patate (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4.

Making gnocchi requires a light touch and the ability to be flexible, but once you master the recipe, you can easily make gnocchi anytime, in anyone's kitchen, without any instructions in front of you. We prefer gnocchi that are made without eggs so that less flour is needed to make the dough. The less flour you need, the more potato flavor there will be in each bite. If this dough is new to you, it may take a couple of tries to get it just right, but the gnocchi you produce while trying will still be perfectly good to eat.

For the Dumplings4 medium baking potatoes, such as russet1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon saltFor the Sauce*4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunksFor Serving* cup freshly grated Parmesan cheeseSalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteEquipmentPotato ricerGnocchi board (optional)Large plate or tray to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. When they're cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, break them into chunks, then press them through the ricer into a large bowl. Place the potatoes in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and place the potatoes on a folded kitchen towel. When they're cool enough to handle, peel off their skins, break them into chunks, then press them through the ricer into a large bowl.

2. Add 1 cup of the flour to the riced potato, keeping the remaining cup handy, then add the salt and toss until mixed evenly. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. Add 1 cup of the flour to the riced potato, keeping the remaining cup handy, then add the salt and toss until mixed evenly. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball.

3. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

4. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

5. Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll one piece of dough into a rope about inch thick, sprinkling with flour if it gets a little sticky. Cut the rope into -inch lengths. Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll one piece of dough into a rope about inch thick, sprinkling with flour if it gets a little sticky. Cut the rope into -inch lengths.

6. If you don't want ridges on your gnocchi, place the cut dough pieces in a single layer on the prepared tray. If you do want ridges, roll each piece along the gnocchi board or along the tines of a fork. Roll the piece along the back of the fork to avoid catching it on the ends of the tines. Repeat with the remaining dough. If you don't want ridges on your gnocchi, place the cut dough pieces in a single layer on the prepared tray. If you do want ridges, roll each piece along the gnocchi board or along the tines of a fork. Roll the piece along the back of the fork to avoid catching it on the ends of the tines. Repeat with the remaining dough.

7. Set aside the number of gnocchi that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see TIPS). Set aside the number of gnocchi that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see TIPS).

8. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

9. Carefully drop up to a few dozen gnocchi into the simmering water, a few at a time. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen gnocchi, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the gnocchi to thaw before cooking.) Carefully drop up to a few dozen gnocchi into the simmering water, a few at a time. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen gnocchi, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the gnocchi to thaw before cooking.) 10. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon, scatter them on the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Resting the cooked gnocchi on a roomy plate prevents them from piling up while they set and firm up a bit. Cook the remaining gnocchi in batches, placing them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Set aside cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon, scatter them on the large plate or tray, and drizzle with a few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Resting the cooked gnocchi on a roomy plate prevents them from piling up while they set and firm up a bit. Cook the remaining gnocchi in batches, placing them on the plate with another few spoonfuls of the cooking liquid. Set aside cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce.

11. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook until the b.u.t.ter just begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Drain the gnocchi and add them to the b.u.t.ter. Toss and stir gently until the edges just begin to brown. Remove from the heat, mix in the Parmesan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook until the b.u.t.ter just begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Drain the gnocchi and add them to the b.u.t.ter. Toss and stir gently until the edges just begin to brown. Remove from the heat, mix in the Parmesan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH OXTAIL SAUCE.

Make the Oxtail Sauce (recipe follows). While the sauce is simmering, prepare the gnocchi and cook them in boiling water shortly before they need to be added to the sauce. Or you can make the sauce up to 3 days in advance, keeping it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container. Bring the sauce to a simmer before adding the cooked gnocchi.

OXTAIL SAUCE.

MAKES ABOUT 4 4 CUPS CUPS.

3 tablespoons olive oil2 pounds meaty oxtail pieces3 celery ribs with leaves, chopped fine1 medium yellow onion, chopped fine1 garlic clove, chopped fine5 stems fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried cup white wine3 cups Beef Broth6 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS), and crushed, or 6 canned plum tomatoes, drained and crushed (about 1 cups)1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper5 to 6 cremini mushrooms 1. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the oxtail pieces in one layer and do not stir until the undersides are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Turn them over and brown the other sides, about 8 minutes longer. Using tongs, move the oxtail to a bowl, leaving behind the oily fat. Add the celery, onion, garlic, and thyme to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Pour in the wine and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the oxtail pieces in one layer and do not stir until the undersides are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Turn them over and brown the other sides, about 8 minutes longer. Using tongs, move the oxtail to a bowl, leaving behind the oily fat. Add the celery, onion, garlic, and thyme to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Pour in the wine and sc.r.a.pe up any sticky bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon.