Part 2 (1/2)

Setting up the steamer plate: Place a steamer rack in a large wide pot and fill the pot with enough water to reach just below the rungs. Find a small heatproof plate or a wide bowl large enough to hold the dumplings but small enough to fit in the pot and place it on top of the rack. Bring the water in the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Place the dumplings on the plate or in the bowl, cover, and simmer until the dumplings are heated through. Place a steamer rack in a large wide pot and fill the pot with enough water to reach just below the rungs. Find a small heatproof plate or a wide bowl large enough to hold the dumplings but small enough to fit in the pot and place it on top of the rack. Bring the water in the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Place the dumplings on the plate or in the bowl, cover, and simmer until the dumplings are heated through.

HAND-WILTING: Hand-wilting greens, herbs, and sliced or diced onion keeps their flavors ultra-fresh, and softens them considerably without adding extra water or oil, an important consideration when making dumpling fillings. Rinse the greens (or other similar ingredient), shake off excess water, place them in a bowl, and simply crumple, scrunch, and squeeze with your hand until the greens are soft and limp. Drain or squeeze off any excess liquid. Hand-wilted onions have a surprisingly diminished raw flavor and are soft, silky, and just right for fillings. Hand-wilting greens, herbs, and sliced or diced onion keeps their flavors ultra-fresh, and softens them considerably without adding extra water or oil, an important consideration when making dumpling fillings. Rinse the greens (or other similar ingredient), shake off excess water, place them in a bowl, and simply crumple, scrunch, and squeeze with your hand until the greens are soft and limp. Drain or squeeze off any excess liquid. Hand-wilted onions have a surprisingly diminished raw flavor and are soft, silky, and just right for fillings.Dumpling Fold Instructions and Ill.u.s.trationsWe realize that for many people the process of folding or wrapping dumplings by hand can be unfamiliar or even a little daunting. The following ill.u.s.trations, complete with step-by-step instructions, will take you through each of the folds in the book. With practice, you'll master even the most complicated folds with confidence and ease.

JELLY-ROLL SHAPE.

DIAMOND IN THE SQUARE FOLD.

PUDDING BASIN SETUP.

FAN-KNOT FOLD.

BOWL FOLD.

PLEATED HALF-MOON FOLD.

HALF-MOON FOLD.

STANDING HALF-MOON FOLD.

BELLY-b.u.t.tON FOLD.

BOTTLENECK FOLD.

CANDY-WRAPPER SHAPE USING A CLOTH.

PINCHED-TOP FOLD.

SINGLE-HUSK TAMALE FOLD.

LOTUS-LEAF FOLD.

TWO-HUSK TAMALE FOLD 1 ( 1 (WIDE).

ENVELOPE FOLD.

CANDY-WRAPPER SHAPE USING A LEAF.

PUDDING BAG FOLD.

TWO-HUSK TAMALE FOLD 2 ( 2 (LONG).

CURLED-LETTER FOLD.

BAMBOO-LEAF FOLD.

JELLY-ROLL SHAPE.

The Jelly-Roll Shape is often used for pastries and baked goods (cinnamon rolls, rugelach, pinwheel cookies), but it is also used with both savory and sweet dumplings. Rolling up your dumpling into a jelly roll not only ensures that the filling is evenly distributed but also guarantees that each slice of the dumpling will have an attractive pinwheel swirl.

1. Arrange the filling on top of the dough rectangle, leaving a narrow border along all sides. Arrange the filling on top of the dough rectangle, leaving a narrow border along all sides.2. Starting on one of the longer sides, begin to roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go. Starting on one of the longer sides, begin to roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go.3. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal.DIAMOND IN THE SQUARE FOLD.

The Diamond in the Square Fold is a simple package fold that has the advantage of having a double layer of leaves for a more secure hold. This fold can also be used instead of the Envelope Fold when dealing with leaves that are brittle or torn.

1. Lay flat the larger banana-leaf square, smooth side up (or parchment paper), and place the smaller banana-leaf square, smooth side up, diagonally on top of the first square. Lay flat the larger banana-leaf square, smooth side up (or parchment paper), and place the smaller banana-leaf square, smooth side up, diagonally on top of the first square.2. Center and arrange the ca.s.sava and filling or rice and filling on top of the stacked leaves. Center and arrange the ca.s.sava and filling or rice and filling on top of the stacked leaves.3. Fold over one corner of the stacked leaves. Fold over one corner of the stacked leaves.4. Fold over the opposite corner. Fold over the opposite corner.5. Fold the ends of the leaves over as firmly as you can to create a neat, rectangular package. Fold the ends of the leaves over as firmly as you can to create a neat, rectangular package.6. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaves from unfolding.PUDDING BASIN SETUP.

You can make a great variety of steamed puddings flawlessly using this traditional technique. This setup is used for all the steamed puddings in this book and, in fact, is a wonderful way to steam pretty much any batter or quick bread. By cooking your pudding in a basin, you reap all the benefits of wet-heat cooking (a moist, soft texture) while still creating a light crust, as if the pudding were oven-baked.

1. Make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar (and line the bottom of the basin with topping if called for). Make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar (and line the bottom of the basin with topping if called for).2. Scoop the batter into the basin and give it a gentle shake to level it off. (If making a pudding with layers, arrange the layers within the basin without packing them down.) Scoop the batter into the basin and give it a gentle shake to level it off. (If making a pudding with layers, arrange the layers within the basin without packing them down.)3. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter.4. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with string. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with string.5. Tie opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Tie opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.FAN-KNOT FOLD.

This simple yet effective fold maximizes the way steam circulates around the dumpling, allowing it to cook faster and more evenly. All you have to do is stack up a few strips of dough, tie them into a knot, and fan out the edges. Truly, if you can tie a knot, you can master this fold.

1. Stack four dough strips on top of each other. The strips don't need to line up perfectly. Stack four dough strips on top of each other. The strips don't need to line up perfectly.2. Bend the dough strips into a loop. Bend the dough strips into a loop.3. Push one end of the stacked strips through the loop, creating a simple knot. Push one end of the stacked strips through the loop, creating a simple knot.4. Tuck in any loose ends and gently fan out or nudge apart the strips of dough, making the layers more apparent. Tuck in any loose ends and gently fan out or nudge apart the strips of dough, making the layers more apparent.BOWL FOLD.

The Bowl Fold, the best way to center a portion of filling in a soft ball of dough, is better suited for dumplings that contain a chunky or crumbly filling. By forming the dough into a small bowl and then cupping it in your hand, you can easily scoop in the filling without its spilling over the sides. Closing the bowl may take some practice, but it is a skill that you can apply to a good number of dumplings.

1. Use your thumbs to shape the dough ball into a bowl just large enough to cradle the filling. Use your thumbs to shape the dough ball into a bowl just large enough to cradle the filling.The shaped dough bowl2. Place the filling in the dough bowl. This step can be made easier by cradling the dough bowl in your palm while spooning in the filling. Place the filling in the dough bowl. This step can be made easier by cradling the dough bowl in your palm while spooning in the filling.3. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.4. Reroll into a ball. Reroll into a ball.PLEATED HALF-MOON FOLD.

This fold resembles the Standing Half-Moon Fold, but by pleating one side of the dough round you end up with a more elaborate appearance.

1. Pick up the dough round and begin to pleat and pinch one side. Pick up the dough round and begin to pleat and pinch one side.2. Pull the round into a bowl shape. Pull the round into a bowl shape.3. Place the filling in the dough bowl. This step can be made easier by cradling the dough bowl in your palm while spooning in the filling. Place the filling in the dough bowl. This step can be made easier by cradling the dough bowl in your palm while spooning in the filling.4. Bring together the edges, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Bring together the edges, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.The finished dumplingHALF-MOON FOLD.

There is no quicker or easier fold than the Half-Moon Fold, which is essentially a dough round folded in half over a mound of filling (or a dough square folded in half into a triangle). It's a great go-to fold for most filled dumplings if a traditional fold is too involved or time consuming.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round. Center the filling on top of the dough round.2. Fold the round neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Fold the round neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air.3. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.STANDING HALF-MOON FOLD.

The Standing Half-Moon Fold, which is a slight variation of the Half-Moon Fold, is used for dumplings that need to sit upright in a steamer or a pan.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round. Center the filling on top of the dough round.2. Fold the round neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Fold the round neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air.3. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.4. Holding the dumpling by the seam, tap the filled base on your work surface until it has a flat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over. Holding the dumpling by the seam, tap the filled base on your work surface until it has a flat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over.The finished dumplingBELLY-b.u.t.tON FOLD.

The Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold is simply a variation on the Half-Moon Fold. By pulling together the ends of the half-moon below the base of the dumpling, you create a natural curl-a belly b.u.t.ton-which squeezes the filling into a tight pocket, giving each dumpling a firmer, denser bite than simply pinching the two ends together over the dumpling.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round or square. Center the filling on top of the dough round or square.2. Fold the round neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. (If using a dough square, fold it diagonally, over the filling, into a triangle.) Fold the round neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. (If using a dough square, fold it diagonally, over the filling, into a triangle.)3. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.4. Join and seal the two ends together below the base of the dumpling. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Join and seal the two ends together below the base of the dumpling. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal.The finished dumplingBOTTLENECK FOLD.

The open pleats created by the Bottleneck Fold result in an especially pretty dumpling. The thinner you can roll out the dough, the more dramatic this effect. Creating the bottleneck is relatively easy, and you can make the opening as narrow or as wide as you like.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round or square. Center the filling on top of the dough round or square.2. Gather up the sides of the round, creating a pouch around the filling, leaving an open neck in the center of the gathered dough. Gather up the sides of the round, creating a pouch around the filling, leaving an open neck in the center of the gathered dough.3. Pinch together, without closing the neck, the creases and pleats that formed naturally while the dough was gathered up. This gives the dumpling a loose and frilly top. Pinch together, without closing the neck, the creases and pleats that formed naturally while the dough was gathered up. This gives the dumpling a loose and frilly top.4. Gently squeeze the body of the dumpling until the filling pushes up a little through the neck. Holding the dumpling by the neck, tap the filled base on your work surface until it has a flat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over. Gently squeeze the body of the dumpling until the filling pushes up a little through the neck. Holding the dumpling by the neck, tap the filled base on your work surface until it has a flat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over.CANDY-WRAPPER SHAPE USING A CLOTH.

Wrapping dumplings with a cloth in the Candy-Wrapper Shape is the surest way to cook a dumpling that is in the shape of a loaf or a log.

1. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides.2. Arrange the dough log along one edge of the muslin. Arrange the dough log along one edge of the muslin.3. Roll up the dumpling. The muslin should be slightly baggy so the dumpling can swell while it cooks. Roll up the dumpling. The muslin should be slightly baggy so the dumpling can swell while it cooks.The rolled-up dumpling4. Tightly tie the two open ends, then tie the body of the dumpling to secure the seam. Tightly tie the two open ends, then tie the body of the dumpling to secure the seam.PINCHED-TOP FOLD.

The Pinched-Top Fold creates the look of a casually pleated top but is actually made by gathering and pinching up opposite sides of the dough round together to enclose the filling.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round. Center the filling on top of the dough round.2. Gather up and pinch together the opposite sides of the round, creating a snug tent around the filling. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Gather up and pinch together the opposite sides of the round, creating a snug tent around the filling. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.3. Gather and pinch together the remaining two sides to enclose the filling, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Gather and pinch together the remaining two sides to enclose the filling, pus.h.i.+ng out any air.4. Pinch any gaps to seal, and twist off the nub of dough that tends to form at the top of the dumpling. Pinch any gaps to seal, and twist off the nub of dough that tends to form at the top of the dumpling.SINGLE-HUSK TAMALE FOLD.

The Single-Husk Tamale Fold shapes tamales into compact rectangular packages. Dried corn husks are often quite large and can easily wrap around big spoonfuls of batter and filling. If your husks are smaller or torn, however, you can overlap two husks and still complete the fold.

1. Lay flat one corn husk, smooth side up. Center the batter on top of the husk and spread it out toward the right side until you have a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Lay flat one corn husk, smooth side up. Center the batter on top of the husk and spread it out toward the right side until you have a rectangle about 4 2 inches.2. Arrange the filling on top of the left half of the batter, leaving the right half without any filling. Arrange the filling on top of the left half of the batter, leaving the right half without any filling.3. Fold the right side over, sandwiching the filling inside the batter. Fold the right side over, sandwiching the filling inside the batter.4. Fold over the left side. Fold over the left side.5. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package.6. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding.LOTUS-LEAF FOLD.

The Lotus-Leaf Fold is ideal for large dumplings that are stuffed with rice and other chunky ingredients. The lotus plant has large leaves that are round or spade shaped. These leaves are dried and typically folded for sale in markets.