Part 11 (2/2)

cup pecan pieces4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces, at room temperature tablespoon minced shallot teaspoon chopped garlic teaspoon salt 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Cut out a 5-inch square of parchment paper, and set it aside. Preheat the oven to 400F. Cut out a 5-inch square of parchment paper, and set it aside.

2. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet, and bake them in the oven until lightly toasted, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Roughly chop. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet, and bake them in the oven until lightly toasted, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Roughly chop.

3. Place the cooled pecans in a small bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, garlic, and salt, and mix well with a rubber spatula. Spoon the mixture down the middle of the parchment paper, and roll it into a log, about 1 inch in diameter. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 1 week. (The b.u.t.ter can be frozen, tightly wrapped in plastic, for up to 1 month.) Place the cooled pecans in a small bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, garlic, and salt, and mix well with a rubber spatula. Spoon the mixture down the middle of the parchment paper, and roll it into a log, about 1 inch in diameter. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 1 week. (The b.u.t.ter can be frozen, tightly wrapped in plastic, for up to 1 month.) 1/3 cup

Pan-Roasted Striped Ba.s.s with Fava BeanChorizo Ragout Sauteed fresh fish, sausage, and fava beans in a creamy broth: you will enjoy every morsel. Use a spoon to get every drop.

2 cups sh.e.l.led fresh fava beans4 tablespoons olive oil8 ounces smoked chorizo, cut into -inch-thick half-moons8 ounces bulk fresh chorizo, crumbled1 cup diced onions (small dice)1 cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth1 teaspoons salt cup heavy cream1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves1 teaspoon cayenne pepperFour 8-ounce striped ba.s.s fillets, skin on 1. Place a large pot of water over high heat. Add enough salt so that the water tastes salty, and bring to a rapid boil. Place a large pot of water over high heat. Add enough salt so that the water tastes salty, and bring to a rapid boil.

2. While the water heats, prepare an ice bath. Set the bowl aside. While the water heats, prepare an ice bath. Set the bowl aside.

3. Add the fava beans to the boiling water in batches, to ensure that the water doesn't lose its boil. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the fava beans, until the beans are crisp-tender or al dente; larger beans will cook in closer to 5 minutes. Using a large slotted spoon or a strainer, quickly remove the beans from the boiling water and submerge them in the ice bath. As soon as they are no longer warm, remove them from the ice bath. Remove the thin skin covering the beans and set the beans aside. Add the fava beans to the boiling water in batches, to ensure that the water doesn't lose its boil. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of the fava beans, until the beans are crisp-tender or al dente; larger beans will cook in closer to 5 minutes. Using a large slotted spoon or a strainer, quickly remove the beans from the boiling water and submerge them in the ice bath. As soon as they are no longer warm, remove them from the ice bath. Remove the thin skin covering the beans and set the beans aside.

4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the smoked chorizo, fresh chorizo, and onions. Cook until the onions begin to soften and the sausage starts to caramelize, about 4 minutes. (If necessary, use the back of a spoon to break the fresh sausage into smaller pieces, roughly the same size as the fava beans.) Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When it is hot, add the smoked chorizo, fresh chorizo, and onions. Cook until the onions begin to soften and the sausage starts to caramelize, about 4 minutes. (If necessary, use the back of a spoon to break the fresh sausage into smaller pieces, roughly the same size as the fava beans.) 5. Add the fava beans and the stock, and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes until tender. Season with teaspoon of the salt. Add the heavy cream and continue to cook, uncovered, until the sauce has thickened slightly, about 3 minutes. Stir in the thyme, parsley, and oregano, remove from the heat, and keep warm. Add the fava beans and the stock, and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes until tender. Season with teaspoon of the salt. Add the heavy cream and continue to cook, uncovered, until the sauce has thickened slightly, about 3 minutes. Stir in the thyme, parsley, and oregano, remove from the heat, and keep warm.

6. Season the striped ba.s.s fillets on both sides with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the cayenne pepper. Season the striped ba.s.s fillets on both sides with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the cayenne pepper.

7. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat, and when it is hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Place the fillets, skin side down, in the pan, and cook for 4 minutes. If the fillets begin to curl, press them down gently with a spatula. Turn the fillets over and cook for another 2 minutes. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat, and when it is hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Place the fillets, skin side down, in the pan, and cook for 4 minutes. If the fillets begin to curl, press them down gently with a spatula. Turn the fillets over and cook for another 2 minutes.

8. Divide the fava beanchorizo ragout among four plates, and top each one with a fish fillet. Serve immediately. Divide the fava beanchorizo ragout among four plates, and top each one with a fish fillet. Serve immediately.

4 servings

Seared Diver Scallops with Oranges, Olives, Capers, and Fennel Puree You may ask, ”What is the difference between a diver scallop and a regular scallop?” Diver scallops are harvested by hand, whereas regular scallops are farmed or collected in nets that sweep the ocean floor. Because diver scallops are collected by hand, only the largest scallops are taken, generally leaving the smaller ones behind to continue to grow. The scallops are brought to market almost immediately-meaning they are at their absolute best.

16 large (U-10) diver scallops1 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper2 tablespoons olive oil cup freshly squeezed orange juice cup dry white wine4 tablespoons ( stick) b.u.t.ter, cut into small cubes1 cup orange segments (from about 2 oranges)1/3 cup pitted and sliced Cerignola olives1 tablespoon nonpareil capers, drained1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leavesFennel Puree (recipe follows) 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Season the scallops on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the white pepper. Season the scallops on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the white pepper.

3. Place a large saute pan over high heat. When it is hot, add the olive oil and half of the scallops. Cook the scallops on one side for 1 minute, until they are golden brown. Turn the scallops over and cook on the second side for 1 minute. Transfer the scallops to an ovenproof platter, and repeat with the remaining scallops. Then place the scallops in the oven and bake until they are just cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. Place a large saute pan over high heat. When it is hot, add the olive oil and half of the scallops. Cook the scallops on one side for 1 minute, until they are golden brown. Turn the scallops over and cook on the second side for 1 minute. Transfer the scallops to an ovenproof platter, and repeat with the remaining scallops. Then place the scallops in the oven and bake until they are just cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, discard the olive oil remaining in the saute pan. Add the orange juice and the white wine to the hot pan, and cook over medium-high heat for 2 minutes, or until reduced to a syrupy consistency. Add a few cubes of b.u.t.ter, swirling the pan or whisking the b.u.t.ter in to form an emulsion. Then add the remaining b.u.t.ter in increments, allowing each addition to be fully incorporated before adding more. Season the sauce with the remaining teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper. Add the orange segments, olives, and capers, and simmer until just warmed through. Do not allow the sauce to boil. Meanwhile, discard the olive oil remaining in the saute pan. Add the orange juice and the white wine to the hot pan, and cook over medium-high heat for 2 minutes, or until reduced to a syrupy consistency. Add a few cubes of b.u.t.ter, swirling the pan or whisking the b.u.t.ter in to form an emulsion. Then add the remaining b.u.t.ter in increments, allowing each addition to be fully incorporated before adding more. Season the sauce with the remaining teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper. Add the orange segments, olives, and capers, and simmer until just warmed through. Do not allow the sauce to boil.

5. Remove the scallops from the oven. Divide the warm Fennel Puree between each of four plates. Place 4 scallops on top of the fennel puree, and then spoon the sauce around each plate. Serve immediately. Remove the scallops from the oven. Divide the warm Fennel Puree between each of four plates. Place 4 scallops on top of the fennel puree, and then spoon the sauce around each plate. Serve immediately.

4 servings

Fennel Puree Fennel is a natural complement to seafood, and it is a wonderful backdrop for the scallops. This puree is simple to prepare and provides a clean, light, and slightly sweet anise flavor. Pair it with roasted potatoes and glazed carrots for a true study in contrasts.

3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon olive oil2 fennel bulbs, cored and thinly sliced cup water3 tablespoons creme fraiche, store-bought or homemade (see chapter ”The Orchard”) teaspoon sea salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1. Combine the b.u.t.ter and the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. When the b.u.t.ter begins to bubble, add the fennel and stir to coat. Add the water, cover the pan, and cook for 20 to 22 minutes, stirring occasionally. The fennel will begin to release some of its juices and become translucent. Do not allow the fennel to brown; reduce the heat if it begins to brown before it is tender. Combine the b.u.t.ter and the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. When the b.u.t.ter begins to bubble, add the fennel and stir to coat. Add the water, cover the pan, and cook for 20 to 22 minutes, stirring occasionally. The fennel will begin to release some of its juices and become translucent. Do not allow the fennel to brown; reduce the heat if it begins to brown before it is tender.

2. Transfer the fennel to a blender. Add the creme fraiche, salt, and pepper, and blend until smooth. Strain the puree through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, and discard any solids. Serve warm. (The puree can be made 1 day in advance and gently reheated.) Transfer the fennel to a blender. Add the creme fraiche, salt, and pepper, and blend until smooth. Strain the puree through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, and discard any solids. Serve warm. (The puree can be made 1 day in advance and gently reheated.) 2 cups

Out On the Range

Bacon-Wrapped Quail with Sausage, Sage, and Chestnut Dressing Quail have always been a favorite of chefs for their delicate meat and robust flavor, and they are now gaining popularity with home cooks as they become more available from small farms around the country. The key to cooking quail is to cook it at a high heat for a short period of time. Wrapping quail in bacon not only adds flavor but also guarantees that these little birds stay moist.

8 strips bacon4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter2 celery stalks, cut into small dice1 medium onion, cut into small diceSalt and freshly ground black pepper12 ounces sweet fennel sausage or mild Italian sausage, casings removed1 tablespoons chiffonade of fresh sage leaves (see Note, chapter ”Nightshades”)1 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves8 ounces roasted chestnuts, peeled and roughly chopped (see Note, chapter ”Out On the Range”)3 cups crustless bread cubes (from a hearty bread such as peasant loaf or Italian), lightly toasted cup turkey or chicken stock, or canned low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed to soften the bread2 tablespoons heavy cream8 semi-boneless quailAbout cup olive oil 1. Preheat the oven to 375F. b.u.t.ter a standard-size loaf pan, and set it aside. Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 375F. b.u.t.ter a standard-size loaf pan, and set it aside. Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Place the bacon strips on the parchment-lined baking sheet, and bake until some of the fat has been rendered and the bacon is lightly browned but still pliable, about 8 minutes. Remove from the baking sheet and set aside. Place the bacon strips on the parchment-lined baking sheet, and bake until some of the fat has been rendered and the bacon is lightly browned but still pliable, about 8 minutes. Remove from the baking sheet and set aside.

3. Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the celery and onion, and cook until the onion is almost translucent, 4 to 6 minutes. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking the sausage into small pieces with the spoon, until it is well browned, about 6 minutes. Stir in the sage, thyme, chestnuts, and bread cubes. Combine the stock and the heavy cream in a measuring cup, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the liquid, cup at a time, to the dressing mixture, stirring gently to combine until it is very moist. Arrange the stuffing in the prepared baking dish. Cut the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter into small pieces and scatter them over the dressing. Bake until heated through, about 20 minutes. If the top gets too brown, cover with aluminum foil. Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the celery and onion, and cook until the onion is almost translucent, 4 to 6 minutes. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking the sausage into small pieces with the spoon, until it is well browned, about 6 minutes. Stir in the sage, thyme, chestnuts, and bread cubes. Combine the stock and the heavy cream in a measuring cup, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the liquid, cup at a time, to the dressing mixture, stirring gently to combine until it is very moist. Arrange the stuffing in the prepared baking dish. Cut the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter into small pieces and scatter them over the dressing. Bake until heated through, about 20 minutes. If the top gets too brown, cover with aluminum foil.

4. Remove the dressing from the oven and set it aside until cooled to room temperature. Remove the dressing from the oven and set it aside until cooled to room temperature.

5. Increase the oven temperature to 400F. Increase the oven temperature to 400F.

6. Season the quail, inside and out, with salt and pepper. Spoon 3 tablespoons of the dressing into the cavity of each quail. Using a toothpick or a piece of kitchen twine, secure the legs together. Wrap 1 bacon strip around each quail, overlapping the ends and securing them with toothpicks. Place the quail on a rack on a rimmed baking dish. Brush the quail with a little olive oil, and roast in the oven for 15 to 18 minutes, until the birds are just cooked through and the juices run clear. Season the quail, inside and out, with salt and pepper. Spoon 3 tablespoons of the dressing into the cavity of each quail. Using a toothpick or a piece of kitchen twine, secure the legs together. Wrap 1 bacon strip around each quail, overlapping the ends and securing them with toothpicks. Place the quail on a rack on a rimmed baking dish. Brush the quail with a little olive oil, and roast in the oven for 15 to 18 minutes, until the birds are just cooked through and the juices run clear.

7. Remove the toothpicks and serve immediately. Remove the toothpicks and serve immediately.

Note: Chestnuts are a holiday favorite and can be found in two forms: raw in the sh.e.l.l or precooked and peeled in vacuum packed bags or in a jar. We prefer to use the jarred variety; a few of our favorite brands include Minerve, Sabaton, or Galil.

If you cannot find roasted chestnuts in your area, fresh, raw chestnuts can be roasted in the oven. Preheat the oven to 400F. Using a sharp paring knife, cut an X in the round end of the chestnut. Spread the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle lightly with water. Roast in the oven for 10 minutes, stir the chestnuts well, and then continue to roast for 10 minutes longer. Carefully peel the chestnuts as soon as they are cool enough to handle. (Peel off both the outer sh.e.l.l and the inner sh.e.l.l.) Use immediately or store in the refrigerator in a resealable plastic container for up to 2 days.

4 entree servings, 8 appetizer servings

Roast Chicken with Sorrel Cream Sauce Sorrel is an herb with a tart, lemony flavor that pairs well with chicken and fish. If you cannot find sorrel in your local farmer's market or grocery store, by all means plant some in your garden. Sorrel grows wild like a weed and will flourish in your herb garden or even in containers in a sunny spot in your kitchen.

For the chicken 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, at room temperature3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sorrel leavesOne 4-pound chicken, cut into quarters1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper1 lemon, quartered1 cup chopped onions2 cloves garlic2 bay leaves2 sprigs fresh lemon thyme For the sauce 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons minced shallot cup dry white wine1 cup heavy cream1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice1 cup very thinly sliced fresh sorrel leaves1 cup slivered fresh spinach leaves2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

2. Prepare the chicken: Combine the b.u.t.ter and sorrel in a small bowl. Rub the sorrel b.u.t.ter all over the chicken and under the skin. Season the chicken on both sides with the salt and pepper. Prepare the chicken: Combine the b.u.t.ter and sorrel in a small bowl. Rub the sorrel b.u.t.ter all over the chicken and under the skin. Season the chicken on both sides with the salt and pepper.

3. Place the chicken quarters in a roasting pan, and arrange the lemon quarters, chopped onions, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme sprigs around the chicken. Roast the chicken, uncovered, until it is cooked through and the juices run clear when pierced with a skewer, about 40 minutes. While the chicken is cooking, spoon the acc.u.mulated juices over the bird every 10 minutes or so to keep it moist. Place the chicken quarters in a roasting pan, and arrange the lemon quarters, chopped onions, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme sprigs around the chicken. Roast the chicken, uncovered, until it is cooked through and the juices run clear when pierced with a skewer, about 40 minutes. While the chicken is cooking, spoon the acc.u.mulated juices over the bird every 10 minutes or so to keep it moist.

4. Remove the chicken from the oven, and pour the pan juices into a small bowl. Cover the pan with aluminum foil, and set the chicken aside to rest for 15 minutes in a warm place. Remove the chicken from the oven, and pour the pan juices into a small bowl. Cover the pan with aluminum foil, and set the chicken aside to rest for 15 minutes in a warm place.

5. While the chicken is resting, prepare the sauce: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan, and add the shallot. Cook over low heat until the shallot is soft, 1 to 2 minutes; do not allow it to brown. Add the wine and cook until it has reduced by one fourth. Add the heavy cream and cook for 3 minutes, until thickened. Add the lemon juice, sorrel, spinach, tarragon, and reserved pan juices, and cook until the greens are wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the sauce to boil. Season with the salt and pepper. Remove from the heat. While the chicken is resting, prepare the sauce: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan, and add the shallot. Cook over low heat until the shallot is soft, 1 to 2 minutes; do not allow it to brown. Add the wine and cook until it has reduced by one fourth. Add the heavy cream and cook for 3 minutes, until thickened. Add the lemon juice, sorrel, spinach, tarragon, and reserved pan juices, and cook until the greens are wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Do not allow the sauce to boil. Season with the salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.

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