Part 11 (1/2)

cup kosher salt cup sugar cup coa.r.s.ely cracked black pepperOne 3-pound side of wild salmon, such as coho or king, scaled, pinbones removed cup chopped fresh dillMini Potato Pancakes (recipe follows), for servingChive Sour Cream (recipe follows), for serving 1. Combine the salt, sugar, and cracked black pepper in a mixing bowl. Transfer half the mixture to a nonreactive pan or baking dish that is large enough to hold the salmon. (If you don't have a large enough baking dish, line a rimmed baking sheet with enough plastic wrap to wrap around the salmon twice, and place half the mixture on the plastic wrap.) Combine the salt, sugar, and cracked black pepper in a mixing bowl. Transfer half the mixture to a nonreactive pan or baking dish that is large enough to hold the salmon. (If you don't have a large enough baking dish, line a rimmed baking sheet with enough plastic wrap to wrap around the salmon twice, and place half the mixture on the plastic wrap.) 2. Place the salmon, skin side down, on the salt mixture. Cover the flesh side of the salmon with the remaining salt mixture, rubbing it onto the salmon to distribute it evenly. Scatter the fresh dill on top, patting it down, and cover the salmon with plastic wrap. Place a flat-bottomed container the size of the salmon (such as another baking dish or baking sheet) on top of the salmon, and weight it with a heavy object such as an iron skillet, bricks, or a few cans. Refrigerate the salmon for 24 hours, flipping it occasionally to ensure even curing and redistributing the cure as necessary. As the salmon cures, its moisture is drawn out to produce a brine. Remove the plastic and check the salmon for firmness. If it still feels fleshy, lay it flesh side down directly in the brine. Continue to cure for up to 12 hours, or until the thickest part of the salmon is firm. Place the salmon, skin side down, on the salt mixture. Cover the flesh side of the salmon with the remaining salt mixture, rubbing it onto the salmon to distribute it evenly. Scatter the fresh dill on top, patting it down, and cover the salmon with plastic wrap. Place a flat-bottomed container the size of the salmon (such as another baking dish or baking sheet) on top of the salmon, and weight it with a heavy object such as an iron skillet, bricks, or a few cans. Refrigerate the salmon for 24 hours, flipping it occasionally to ensure even curing and redistributing the cure as necessary. As the salmon cures, its moisture is drawn out to produce a brine. Remove the plastic and check the salmon for firmness. If it still feels fleshy, lay it flesh side down directly in the brine. Continue to cure for up to 12 hours, or until the thickest part of the salmon is firm.

3. Remove the salmon from the refrigerator and pat it dry. Set it, skin side down, on a wire rack set over a baking sheet, and allow it to air-dry in the refrigerator for an hour or two. (The cured salmon can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap or parchment paper and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.) Remove the salmon from the refrigerator and pat it dry. Set it, skin side down, on a wire rack set over a baking sheet, and allow it to air-dry in the refrigerator for an hour or two. (The cured salmon can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap or parchment paper and stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.) 4. Slice the salmon as thin as possible with a very sharp knife, and serve with the Mini Potato Pancakes and Chive Sour Cream. Alternatively, sliced salmon may be diced (skin removed beforehand) and served with traditional garnishes tartare-fas.h.i.+on (boiled eggs, red onion, capers, toast points, and an herb oil, chapter ”The Herb Garden”). Slice the salmon as thin as possible with a very sharp knife, and serve with the Mini Potato Pancakes and Chive Sour Cream. Alternatively, sliced salmon may be diced (skin removed beforehand) and served with traditional garnishes tartare-fas.h.i.+on (boiled eggs, red onion, capers, toast points, and an herb oil, chapter ”The Herb Garden”).

6 to 8 servings

Mini Potato Pancakes These delights are incredibly delicious on their own. Serve them for breakfast or as a side dish. Just please don't let the kids add ketchup! Unless, of course, you made it yourself.

2 pounds Idaho potatoes cup minced onion2 eggs, lightly beaten2 tablespoons all-purpose flour teaspoon baking powder1 teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperVegetable oil for frying 1. Peel the potatoes, and grate them on the large holes of a box grater or using the large grate disc on a food processor. Using a kitchen towel, wring the grated potatoes dry in two batches. Add the potatoes and onion to a mixing bowl, and toss gently with the eggs. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Peel the potatoes, and grate them on the large holes of a box grater or using the large grate disc on a food processor. Using a kitchen towel, wring the grated potatoes dry in two batches. Add the potatoes and onion to a mixing bowl, and toss gently with the eggs. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper, and mix well.

2. Pour enough vegetable oil into a large skillet to reach a depth of 1/8 inch, and heat it over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the pancake mixture by tablespoonfuls. Gently flatten each pancake with the back of a fork, and pan-fry until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining pancake mixture, adding more oil as needed between batches. Pour enough vegetable oil into a large skillet to reach a depth of 1/8 inch, and heat it over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the pancake mixture by tablespoonfuls. Gently flatten each pancake with the back of a fork, and pan-fry until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining pancake mixture, adding more oil as needed between batches.

36 potato pancakes

Chive Sour Cream 1 cup sour cream cup minced fresh chives1 teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 1 week.

1 cup

Baked Gulf Oysters and Shrimp with Garlic, Lemon b.u.t.ter, and Crabmeat This dish is one of the biggest sellers at my restaurant in Gulfport, Mississippi. We benefit from the bounty of incredible fresh seafood that comes in from the Gulf waters. It doesn't get much better than this.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature2 tablespoons minced garlic1 tablespoon minced shallot1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves, plus more for garnish teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper1 pint shucked raw oysters, drained well and patted dry on paper towels8 ounces medium shrimp, peeled and deveined4 ounces fresh crabmeat, picked over for sh.e.l.ls and cartilage1/3 cup fine dry unseasoned breadcrumbs1/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese1 tablespoon olive oilLemon wedges, for serving 1. In a small bowl, combine the b.u.t.ter, garlic, shallot, parsley, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate for 10 minutes. In a small bowl, combine the b.u.t.ter, garlic, shallot, parsley, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate for 10 minutes.

2. Position an oven rack in the upper third of the oven, and preheat the broiler. Position an oven rack in the upper third of the oven, and preheat the broiler.

3. Divide the oysters and shrimp among eight individual gratin dishes just large enough to hold the oysters in one layer, such as 8-ounce shallow gratin dishes. Sprinkle the crabmeat evenly over the oysters and shrimp. Divide the compound b.u.t.ter evenly among the ramekins. Transfer the dishes to a large baking sheet, and broil for about 5 minutes, or until the oysters and shrimp are beginning to firm up. Divide the oysters and shrimp among eight individual gratin dishes just large enough to hold the oysters in one layer, such as 8-ounce shallow gratin dishes. Sprinkle the crabmeat evenly over the oysters and shrimp. Divide the compound b.u.t.ter evenly among the ramekins. Transfer the dishes to a large baking sheet, and broil for about 5 minutes, or until the oysters and shrimp are beginning to firm up.

4. While the ramekins are broiling, combine the breadcrumbs, 3 tablespoons of the Parmesan, and the olive oil in a bowl. Stir to blend. While the ramekins are broiling, combine the breadcrumbs, 3 tablespoons of the Parmesan, and the olive oil in a bowl. Stir to blend.

5. Remove the ramekins from the broiler, and sprinkle the crumb mixture evenly over the seafood. Return the ramekins to the broiler and broil until the crumbs are golden brown and the oysters and shrimp are just cooked through and curled around the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the broiler, and sprinkle the crumb mixture evenly over the seafood. Return the ramekins to the broiler and broil until the crumbs are golden brown and the oysters and shrimp are just cooked through and curled around the edges, 3 to 4 minutes.

6. Remove the ramekins from the oven, garnish with the remaining Parmesan, and serve immediately, with lemon wedges alongside. Remove the ramekins from the oven, garnish with the remaining Parmesan, and serve immediately, with lemon wedges alongside.

8 appetizer servings

Littleneck Clams with Sweet Italian Sausage and Spicy Tomato Sauce Oh, baby, this simple clam and pasta dish will have you coming back for more. Feel free to use spicy Italian sausage in place of the mild, if you prefer.

8 ounces linguine or spaghettini2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling1 pound fresh sweet Italian sausage, removed from casings and crumbled cup finely chopped yellow onion3 tablespoons thinly sliced garlic2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves teaspoon salt teaspoon crushed red pepper cup dry white wine cup bottled clam juice1 can (14.5 ounces) pet.i.te diced tomatoes, with their liquid2 pounds littleneck clams, scrubbed and purged in water (see Note)2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, or to taste 1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the linguine and cook until al dente according to package directions, about 8 minutes. Drain the pasta in a colander, and lightly drizzle it with olive oil. Toss well to coat, and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the linguine and cook until al dente according to package directions, about 8 minutes. Drain the pasta in a colander, and lightly drizzle it with olive oil. Toss well to coat, and set aside.

2. Heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, heavy saute pan or medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausage is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, salt, and crushed red pepper and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Add the wine, clam juice, and tomatoes. Stir to mix well, and simmer until the sauce has reduced a bit and thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, heavy saute pan or medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sausage is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, salt, and crushed red pepper and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute. Add the wine, clam juice, and tomatoes. Stir to mix well, and simmer until the sauce has reduced a bit and thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the clams, cover the pan, and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened clams. Add the clams, cover the pan, and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened clams.

4. Stir in the lemon juice and the cooked pasta. Cook, tossing frequently, until the pasta is heated through, about 1 minute. Add the extra-virgin olive oil and parsley, and toss to coat well. Divide among serving bowls and top with the Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately. Stir in the lemon juice and the cooked pasta. Cook, tossing frequently, until the pasta is heated through, about 1 minute. Add the extra-virgin olive oil and parsley, and toss to coat well. Divide among serving bowls and top with the Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.

Note: Clams live buried in the sandy bottom of the ocean floor. They acc.u.mulate grit, sand, and dirt because they do not fully close their sh.e.l.ls. Live clams need to be purged of the sand and grit prior to cooking. In order to purge clams, they must be submerged in a salt.w.a.ter solution of 1/3 cup salt mixed with 1 gallon of water. The clams should sit in the solution for 30 minutes. At this time the water should be changed to ensure that there is enough oxygen so the clams do not suffocate. This process should be repeated 2 or 3 times. Alternatively, the clams can be left in a large amount of water overnight.

4 servings

Sauteed Soft-Sh.e.l.l Crabs Soft-sh.e.l.l crab season starts around mid-April on the Gulf Coast, all the way from Texas to Florida. The season lasts longer here than anywhere else because the waters of the Gulf of Mexico stay nice and warm all the way into the month of October. Soft-sh.e.l.l crabs are a delicacy because of their sweet, briny flavor and their delicate soft sh.e.l.ls, which allow us to eat the whole thing.

4 soft-sh.e.l.l crabs, cleaned (see Note)1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper1 cup Wondra flour3 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon chopped shallot1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoon minced garlic 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Season the crabs with the salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow dish and dredge the crabs in it, shaking off any excess. Season the crabs with the salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow dish and dredge the crabs in it, shaking off any excess.

3. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy ovenproof skillet over moderately high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Carefully place the crabs in the skillet, top sh.e.l.l down (they may sputter and pop). Cook the crabs until they begin to blister, about 3 minutes. Flip them over and immediately transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake for 2 to 3 minutes. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy ovenproof skillet over moderately high heat until it is hot but not smoking. Carefully place the crabs in the skillet, top sh.e.l.l down (they may sputter and pop). Cook the crabs until they begin to blister, about 3 minutes. Flip them over and immediately transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake for 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Remove the skillet from the oven and transfer the crabs to serving plates or a platter. Add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, parsley, and garlic to the hot skillet and cook over medium-low heat for 2 minutes, or until the b.u.t.ter begins to turn brown. Remove the skillet from the oven and transfer the crabs to serving plates or a platter. Add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, parsley, and garlic to the hot skillet and cook over medium-low heat for 2 minutes, or until the b.u.t.ter begins to turn brown.

5. Serve the crabs drizzled with the brown b.u.t.ter. Serve the crabs drizzled with the brown b.u.t.ter.

Note: To clean soft-sh.e.l.l crabs, rinse them under cold running water and brush them with a small brush to remove any dirt from their outer sh.e.l.ls, if necessary. Twist off and discard the ap.r.o.n. Fold back the pointed sides of the top sh.e.l.l to expose the gills; remove the gills on both sides. Using kitchen scissors, cut across the front of the crab, about inch behind the eyes and mouth, and squeeze out the small sac hiding directly behind the mouth. The crabs are now ready to be cooked.

2 entree servings, 4 appetizer servings

Sauteed Redfish with Pecan-Shallot compound b.u.t.ter There was a time when Louisiana redfish were fished to near depletion, but thanks to strict regulations they have made a strong comeback and are thriving and plentiful in Gulf waters. This is one of the tastiest and certainly one of the most popular fish along the Gulf Coast. Redfish and pecans is a cla.s.sic Louisiana pairing, and topped with fresh Louisiana crabmeat, this dish is a knockout.

2 tablespoons olive oil1 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepperFour 6-ounce redfish fillets, scaled, skin scored, or another firm-fleshed fish, such as striped ba.s.s or red snapper8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature, cut into pieces4 teaspoons minced shallot cup chopped pecans8 ounces fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for sh.e.l.ls and cartilage3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice4 pats Pecan-Shallot Compound b.u.t.ter (recipe follows)1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves 1. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

2. Set a 14-inch ovenproof saute pan over high heat and add the olive oil. Set a 14-inch ovenproof saute pan over high heat and add the olive oil.

3. While the oil is heating, season the fish fillets on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the white pepper. While the oil is heating, season the fish fillets on both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and teaspoon of the white pepper.

4. When the oil is very hot, add the fillets, skin side down, and cook until crisp around the edges, about 1 minute. Turn the fillets over, and add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, and pecans to the pan. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until the b.u.t.ter is beginning to brown around the edges and the fish is almost cooked through, about 5 minutes. When the oil is very hot, add the fillets, skin side down, and cook until crisp around the edges, about 1 minute. Turn the fillets over, and add the b.u.t.ter, shallot, and pecans to the pan. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until the b.u.t.ter is beginning to brown around the edges and the fish is almost cooked through, about 5 minutes.

5. Remove the pan from the oven and add the crabmeat. Drizzle the lemon juice over the b.u.t.ter, and return the pan to the oven. Bake for 2 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked through. Remove the pan from the oven and add the crabmeat. Drizzle the lemon juice over the b.u.t.ter, and return the pan to the oven. Bake for 2 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked through.

6. Remove the pan from the oven, place 1 pat of the compound b.u.t.ter on each piece of fish, and set each piece on a serving plate. Remove the pan from the oven, place 1 pat of the compound b.u.t.ter on each piece of fish, and set each piece on a serving plate.

7. Season the pecans and crabmeat in the pan with the remaining teaspoon salt and remaining teaspoon pepper. Add the parsley, chives, and tarragon, and stir to combine. Then spoon the pecan-crabmeat relish evenly over the fillets, and serve immediately. Season the pecans and crabmeat in the pan with the remaining teaspoon salt and remaining teaspoon pepper. Add the parsley, chives, and tarragon, and stir to combine. Then spoon the pecan-crabmeat relish evenly over the fillets, and serve immediately.

4 servings

Pecan-Shallot Compound b.u.t.ter I'm going to tell you right now: you'll wish you made more of this. Go ahead, double the recipe! Whatever you don't use on the fish can be frozen and whipped out at a moment's notice. Toss it with pasta or steamed vegetables, or smear it over pan-roasted chicken.