Part 13 (1/2)

4 large ripe fresh tomatoes, cored and chopped (about 3 cups)1 large white onion or 5 or 6 scallions, chopped2 teaspoons minced garlic, or to taste (optional if you're using all fruit)Minced fresh chile (like jalapeno, Thai, or less of habanero) or hot red pepper flakes or cayenne to taste1 cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley leaves4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice or 2 tablespoons sherry or wine vinegarSalt and freshly ground pepper

Combine everything but the salt and pepper in a bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then taste and adjust the seasoning. If you have time, let the flavors mingle for 15 minutes or more before serving.

All-Purpose Tomato Sauce

Makes: 6 to 8 servings (about 1 quart) .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

A batch of tomato sauce is fast and easy. If you don't finish it in a few days you can freeze what's left; but I try to keep some in the fridge at all times, since it reheats well and is good on everything from steamed vegetables to simply cooked fish or chicken, and of course pasta or rice. You can also turn the tables and make the sauce the base for braised string beans, tofu, celery, or any combination: Parboil the vegetables if necessary, then finish cooking them in the sauce.

Note: You can buy prechopped tomatoes, or just chop them in the cans by swirling a knife through them. See the first variation for fresh sauce.

cup olive oil1 large onion or 2 medium onions, choppedAbout 4 pounds canned whole tomatoes (two 28-or 35-ounce cans), chopped, liquid reservedSalt and freshly ground black pepper cup chopped fresh parsley or basil leaves (optional)

1 Put the olive oil in a pot over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 3 minutes. Then add the tomatoes. Put the olive oil in a pot over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 3 minutes. Then add the tomatoes.

2 Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and the mixture comes together and thickens a bit, 10 to 15 minutes. For a thinner sauce, add some or all of the reserved liquid and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes; if you want a thick sauce, save it for another use. Taste, adjust the seasonings, stir in the herbs, and keep warm. (Or let cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to several days; reheat gently before serving.) Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and the mixture comes together and thickens a bit, 10 to 15 minutes. For a thinner sauce, add some or all of the reserved liquid and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes; if you want a thick sauce, save it for another use. Taste, adjust the seasonings, stir in the herbs, and keep warm. (Or let cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to several days; reheat gently before serving.)

Five Flavor Boosters for Basic Tomato SauceAdd any of these to the onions, right before stirring in the tomatoes: Chopped black or green olives, and/or capers, and/or anchoviesRed pepper flakes or a whole dried chile (fish it out later)A couple of bay leaves (fish them out later)1 ounce (or more) reconst.i.tuted dried porcini mushroomsThe rind from a wedge of Parmesan cheese

Fresh Tomato Sauce: Instead of canned tomatoes, use chopped fresh (peeled and seeded if you like, but if not, so be it). Instead of canned tomatoes, use chopped fresh (peeled and seeded if you like, but if not, so be it).

Homemade Cooked Salsa: For either the main recipe or the fresh variation above. In Step 1, after the onions cook for about 2 minutes, add 2 or more chopped fresh jalapeno, serrano, or other fresh hot chiles (with the seeds if you like; they're hot), along with 2 tablespoons chopped garlic. Instead of parsley or basil, finish with chopped cilantro. For either the main recipe or the fresh variation above. In Step 1, after the onions cook for about 2 minutes, add 2 or more chopped fresh jalapeno, serrano, or other fresh hot chiles (with the seeds if you like; they're hot), along with 2 tablespoons chopped garlic. Instead of parsley or basil, finish with chopped cilantro.

Garlicky Tomato Sauce: Omit the onions. Chop 4 to 10 (or more) raw garlic cloves, or use 1 or 2 heads Fast Roasted Garlic; squeezed from the skins) and add them to the hot oil in Step 1. Reduce the cooking time to just a minute or so. Proceed with the recipe. Omit the onions. Chop 4 to 10 (or more) raw garlic cloves, or use 1 or 2 heads Fast Roasted Garlic; squeezed from the skins) and add them to the hot oil in Step 1. Reduce the cooking time to just a minute or so. Proceed with the recipe.

All-Purpose Tomato Sauce Spiked with Sausage or Meat: In Step 1, before stirring in the onions, brown a chopped Italian sausage, or pound ground meat; add the onions when the meat is just starting to loose its pink, and proceed with the recipe. In Step 1, before stirring in the onions, brown a chopped Italian sausage, or pound ground meat; add the onions when the meat is just starting to loose its pink, and proceed with the recipe.

Peeling Fruit (Including Tomatoes)To remove the skins from any fruit, get a pot of water boiling and set up a bowl of ice water near the stove. Immerse the fruit, one or a few pieces at a time, in boiling water for about 30 seconds, or until the skin loosens, then plunge into ice water to stop the cooking. The skin should peel off easily with a paring knife.

Quick Vegetable Stock

Makes: More than 2 quarts .

Time: 20 to 40 minutes Time: 20 to 40 minutes

Homemade stock is not only infinitely better than the packaged stuff but also easy to make. You can produce large quant.i.ties and freeze enough to have it on hand for soup, rice, beans-or anytime when you want more flavor than water.

Making stock is more art than science, so don't worry if you don't have all the ingredients here; use what you have, and subst.i.tute at will. Off-limits are strong-flavored greens (cabbage included-unless you want your stock to taste like cabbage), bell peppers, and eggplant. Don't even bother to peel the vegetables, just wash the skins well.

For a more robust, earthy flavor, toss in a handful of dried porcini (or sauteed fresh mushrooms). Dried or canned tomatoes add color and flavor. Or, try a couple of bay leaves and a few sprigs of fresh thyme for a more fragrant variation. For darker, richer stock, brown the vegetables in olive oil before adding the water. And there's no rule against adding a ham bone, turkey carca.s.s, chicken bones, or bit of leftover beef to the pot.