Volume I Part 18 (1/2)

SIGNS OF NATIVES.

We halted for breakfast near a stream of this kind, under the shade of a large group of the panda.n.u.s. This was evidently a favourite haunt of the natives, who had been feeding upon the almonds which this tree contains in its large complex fruit, and to give a relish to their repast had mingled with it roasted unios, or fresh-water mussels, which the stream produced in abundance. The remains of some old spears were also lying about, but the natives themselves were not visible.

Immediately after breakfast I ascended a hill to see if we could in any way get clear of the deep stream on the banks of which we had breakfasted. The Glenelg was distant about three miles to the south, and I found that, in order to disengage ourselves from the waters which almost encompa.s.sed us, we must turn off to the north-west, and thus almost double back on our former track, as there was no other resource. I returned at once to the party, and we spent the rest of the day in crossing two deep streams, and then proceeded about a mile to the eastward, where we halted for the night on the bank of a rocky watercourse, but not containing a drop of water. The timber today was larger than I had yet seen it, affording many new kinds, and one in particular, resembling in appearance and quality the English ash.

March 9.

We moved through a low country, densely vegetated, and still abounding in deep sluggish streams, almost unapproachable, on account of a dwarf bamboo and other tropical plants which clothed their margins. Some of these streams were twenty feet deep and upwards, and looked more like ca.n.a.ls than natural watercourses.

CASCADE OF THE RIVER.

The point where we halted for the night was not very distant from the river, for its roaring, as it forced itself over a rapid, could be distinctly heard. As it was important to ascertain if it ceased to be navigable at this point, as well as whether it could be here forded or not, I ordered a party to proceed at daylight and examine it, and in the interim we laid down to enjoy such repose as myriads of mosquitoes would allow us.

March 10.

The party started at dawn and did not return until the afternoon. They arrived at low-water at a point where the river formed a series of rapids and was apparently broken into several channels; the one which they reached was not more than fifty or sixty yards wide, the tide at low water being full seven or eight feet below the level of the rocks which formed the rapids, but at high-water it rose, judging from the marks on the rocks, as many feet above them. This channel would therefore cease to be navigable for vessels at this point, but large boats could proceed up it at high-water. There was no apparent possibility of our being able to pa.s.s it hereabouts on account of the great rapidity of the current. The river continued fresh below the rapids, and their account of the character of the country they saw was most satisfactory.

INCONVENIENT HALTING PLACE.

Almost immediately after they had entered the camp the rain began to fall in such torrents that it was impossible for us to move; this was unfortunate for where we were halted was unfit for a day's resting-place, and we should consequently be compelled to move on Sunday morning instead of making it a day of perfect rest. The point where the party made the river today was about south lat.i.tude 15 degrees 41 minutes; east longitude 124 degrees 53 minutes.

CHAPTER 9. TO THE UPPER GLENELG.

WORKS OF NATIVE INDUSTRY.

March 11.

The country we traversed this morning was still marshy, and intersected by deep streams. The party had yesterday fixed upon a point for us to encamp at; but, a sudden inundation having taken place, we could not cross a stream which lay between us and the spot selected, so that we were compelled about noon to halt at a position very ill adapted for our purpose.

VARIOUS TRACES OF NATIVES.

Close to our camp was a large ma.s.s of basaltic rocks, on which the natives had lately been, and had left behind them a few old spears: some drawings were also scratched upon the rocks, representing heads, hands, and other parts of the human frame: they were however indifferently executed.

Another branch of industry which had engaged their attention was the manufacture of stone spearheads, the chips and remnants of which were lying about on every side. As this looked very like a preparation to give us a warm reception I kept upon the alert. From constantly sleeping on the wet ground, and the exposure I was obliged to undergo, such an attack of rheumatism had been produced in my left hip and knee that I was not only crippled but suffered such dreadful agony from my wounded limb that I was able to pay but little attention to pa.s.sing events.

I crept about however as well as I could, and found that we were in a very populous neighbourhood. At one place a large party of natives appeared to have lived for some time, twelve bark beds having been left in a circle round a fire. In this respect they differ in custom from the natives of the southern parts of Australia, who generally sleep all of a heap, or, at least, four or five persons together, whereas each individual here appeared to occupy his own little bark bed. In the course of the morning's march we had pa.s.sed a very neat native oven, or fireplace, much more carefully constructed than anything of the kind I have since seen; it consisted of a hole sunk eight inches deep in the earth, which was quite circular, three feet in diameter, and very neatly paved and lined with flat stones; the last article cooked here had been a large quant.i.ty of turtles' eggs, the remnants of which were lying scattered all around. This is a dish by no means to be despised; and the discovery was rather interesting to me as it proved that turtle came so far up the river. It rained hard during the greater part of the day.

March 12.

As we were preparing to start this morning one of the ponies was found to be so knocked up as to be unable to proceed; I therefore abandoned it, though, I fear, in a state too far gone to recover; but if perfect rest and abundance of good feed and water could effect a restoration it had still a fair chance.

DIFFICULTIES OF THE ROUTE.

A ford over the stream had yesterday been found between the Glenelg and our encampment, which we now succeeded in getting the ponies over, and, in order to avoid another stream, which had been seen to the eastward, we turned north-east, but in about three miles were again at fault, on the banks of a deep brook. I now turned due north and, after tracing the stream for about a mile, discovered a ford across which, after a due proportion of sticking in the mud and falling with their loads in the deep water, we led all the ponies, and found ourselves happily established in a jungle on the other side of it. The vegetation here consisted of gra.s.s and reeds which rose so high and thick that I could see nothing over them, although there was rising land within a mile of us.

We first endeavoured to push through this jungle in an easterly direction; but, after having very resolutely made our way onwards for about an hour, I saw some very high land to the south-east of us, distant four or five miles, and therefore changed the direction of our march to make for these hills; as soon as we had gained a clear place in the jungle I halted for breakfast, and, after resting for an hour, we continued, notwithstanding the dreadful heat of the day, to move on, but soon again came to a deep, sluggish stream which obliged us to turn off to the north-east; and it was not until near nightfall that we found a place where we could cross it.

MOUNT LYELL.

Having traversed the stream we proceeded to the foot of a very lofty peak, the most remarkable hill in this part of the country, and which I named Mount Lyell, after C. Lyell, Esquire. We here pitched the tents, and scarcely was this operation performed ere the rain fell in such torrents that the water stood even under them to the depth of two or three inches, and yet the tents were fixed in the best position that could be found. The night was dark and stormy so that, even had a better place offered, it would now have been useless to move; we therefore resigned ourselves to our fate and lay down on our watery beds, which possessed at least one merit, that they were free from mosquitoes.