Volume I Part 17 (1/2)

Immediately above us a perfectly conical peak raised its head to the height of at least five hundred feet;* this hill was covered with rich gra.s.s, and there could be no doubt that it was of volcanic origin, for the rock of which it was composed was a vitrified lava resembling that of Ascension. It is from this lava that the natives form their most deadly spears, for which purpose it answers well, as it fractures easily, and the fracture resembles that of the coa.r.s.e green gla.s.s of England; indeed a lump of this rock might readily be taken for a part of a gla.s.s bottle.

(*Footnote. This hill may be easily recognized by a precipitous cavity near the summit on its southern side, which may be seen at some distance.)

The horses and sheep revelled in the luxuriant pasture. The hill we had encamped on formed a sort of plateau; behind us stood dark mountains, and in our front lay fertile plains, from which green hills rose one behind the other until they were lost in the distance, without any perceptible change in the character of the country. To the eastward the prospect was similar, as well as to the westward, except that in this direction the hills were more lofty, and behind these the tropical sun was hurrying down with a rapidity of movement never witnessed by those who live in the gloomy climes of the north. The men all looked healthy and full of hope; the cool sea-breeze refreshed my feverish frame: I painted in fancy the rapid progress that this country would ere long make in commerce and civilization, and my weakness and fatigues were all forgotten.

DISTANT EXPANSE OF WATER.

February 28.

At dawn this morning the sheep could not be found; tempted by the goodness of the feed they had broken out from the little enclosure we had made for them and had wandered off. The stock-keeper and two of the men, having ascended the conical hill behind us to try if they could see them from it, reported on their return that they could descry a large lake or expanse of water, which bore about south by west from us.

VEXATIOUS DELAYS.

Whilst the search for the sheep was continued I sent another party up the hill to observe more particularly this sheet of water, who returned with a report similar to that of the stock-keeper, and I therefore determined, as soon as everything had been prepared for starting, to move off in the direction pointed out; unfortunately the sheep were not found till near noon but, as I was afraid we should consequently lose a whole day, I started directly after they were brought in. We had not proceeded more than half a mile ere I had cause to repent this measure, for two or three of the men suffered severely from exposure to the sun, and one of them became so unwell that I was obliged to halt the party.

The spot I chose was the bank of a stream, shaded over by dense trees and, if anything could have atoned for the mortification of being compelled to halt when so anxious to get on, the cool beauty of this spot would have done so.

When the sun began to fall we again moved on, following the course of the stream, which ran through a fertile valley about two miles wide and bounded on either side by gently sloping hills, extending through a country thinly wooded. We did not halt until after sunset.

March 1.

This morning we resumed our route along the banks of the stream, which continued gradually to increase in size. The marshy ground now extended further from its banks and, in order to free ourselves from this, I ascended some rising ground to the eastward, along which we pursued our route until we fell in with another rapid stream running from the eastward, and were again involved in marshy land, which delayed us for some time ere we found a point where loaded ponies could pa.s.s. At length however, having succeeded in getting clear of these obstructions, we continued our southerly course till we came to a deep stream running from south-south-east; but, not being able to cross it there, we travelled along its banks until a ford was found; and as soon as we had pa.s.sed over I halted for breakfast.

BEAUTIFUL BASALTIC COUNTRY.

We had traversed a most beautiful country this morning, composed of basaltic rocks and fine alluvial soil, whilst, from the size and number of the streams, it must be as well watered as any region in the world.

Before we had completed our breakfast violent tropical rains set in; these were so cold that some of the men got into the stream, the waters of which were comparatively warm, and they thus saved themselves from the painful feeling caused by very cold water falling on the pores, which had been previously opened by profuse perspiration. The heavy rains continued without intermission for the remainder of the day and night, and two of the men were, on this occasion, attacked with dysentery, caused, I believe, by cold and exposure.

DISCOVERY AND CHARACTER OF THE GLENELG RIVER.

March 2.

We started at dawn, crossing a series of low ridges which ran out from a chain of hills to the eastward of us, and increased in elevation as we proceeded to the south. We pa.s.sed numerous streams, and the country generally continued of a very rich and fertile character: at last, from the top of one of these ridges, there burst upon the sight a n.o.ble river, running through a beautiful country, and, where we saw it, at least three or four miles across, and studded with numerous verdant islands. I have since seen many Australian rivers, but none to equal this either in magnitude or beauty.

I at once named it the Glenelg in compliment to the Right Honourable Lord Glenelg, to whom we were all under great obligations.

IMPEDIMENTS FROM MARSHES AND STREAMS. INEFFECTUAL ATTEMPT TO REACH IT.

My anxiety to reach this stream was too great to allow me to pa.s.s much time in looking at it, so, after I had taken a few bearings to the most remarkable points in the neighbourhood, we wound down the steep descent in front, and continued our advance towards the river, but were still at least five miles from it when we became involved in low marshy ground, traversed by deep sluggish streams, the banks of which were enc.u.mbered by a dense vegetation. Such a country, though admirably adapted both for commerce and agriculture, offered almost insurmountable difficulties to first explorers, at least to such as were compelled to move rapidly. We at last became so completely entangled in a marsh that further progress was hopeless, and we halted to prepare breakfast whilst a party searched for a path by which we might be enabled to proceed.

My wound was still open and my sufferings from it were great; whenever we moved on I was lifted on the pony, and when we halted I was lifted off again and laid on the ground, where weakness compelled me to remain during the whole period of our halt; and on occasions like the present, when most anxious myself to search for a route, I was obliged to lie still like a helpless child. My mind was as active and as ready for exertion as ever, yet the weak frame, of which it felt perfectly independent, was incapable of seconding my most moderate wishes; and the annoyance I experienced at finding myself in this state long r.e.t.a.r.ded my recovery and rendered me weaker every day.

At length a route was found, and until sunset we continued our journey over a very difficult but fertile country, and then halted for the night on a small elevation, embosomed amidst conical hills which rose from verdant meadows, watered by several streams. The country was thinly timbered.

The spot we had halted at was so thickly tenanted with mosquitoes that it was impossible to sleep. I therefore laid awake, listening to the cries of the sea-birds and watching the brilliant fire-flies moving about in the dark foliage of the trees.

PROGRESS TOWARDS THE UPPER PART OF THE GLENELG.

March 3.