Volume I Part 12 (2/2)

Scarcely had we reached these rocks, and sheltered ourselves under the overhanging projections, when I saw a savage advancing with a spear in his right hand, and a bundle of similar weapons in his left; he was followed by a party of thirteen others, and with them was a small dog not of the kind common to this country. The men were curiously painted for war, red being the predominant colour, and each man carried several spears, a rowing stick, and a club. Their chief was in front, and distinguished by his hair being of a dark red colour from some composition with which it was smeared; the others followed him close, noiselessly, and with stealthy pace, one by one, whilst he, crouching almost to the earth, p.r.i.c.ked off our trail.

We remained concealed and motionless until they had all pa.s.sed, but the moment they came to where we had turned off they discovered our retreat, and raised loud shouts of triumph, as, forming themselves into a semicircle, they advanced upon us, brandis.h.i.+ng their spears and bounding from rock to rock. It was in vain that I made friendly signs and gestures, they still closed upon us, and to my surprise I heard their war-cry answered by a party who were coming over the high rocks in our rear, which I had flattered myself protected us in that direction.

Our situation was now so critical that I was compelled to a.s.sume a hostile att.i.tude. I therefore shouted in answer to their cries and, desiring the men to fire one at a time if I gave the word, I advanced rapidly, at the same time firing one barrel over their heads. This had the desired effect. With the exception of one more resolute than the rest they fled on all sides, and he, finding his efforts unavailing, soon followed their example.

RETURN TO THE ENCAMPMENT. HANOVER BAY.

Feeling however that the neighbourhood we were in was a dangerous one, and being anxious to know whether the party I had left at the encampment--only six in number--had seen these natives, I hurried our march, although the rain fell in torrents all day; and we that night made the camp.

PROCEEDINGS THERE DURING MY ABSENCE.

I found the party all in good health and spirits: they had seen nothing whatever of the natives during my absence. The sailing of the Lynher had been unfortunately delayed until the 21st of December. On the 18th and 19th the tides had been so low that, although Mr. Lus.h.i.+ngton had done his utmost, the schooner made little or no progress in her watering. On the 20th the crew and whole party were employed; yet they only succeeded in getting off 280 gallons for they were obliged to carry the water in small baricos to the boat, over slippery rocks and deep mud: and on the 21st, thinking it better to complete their water at Timor, they set sail. This difficulty of watering only arose from the lowness of the tides (neap) and our ignorance of the country. Subsequently we found no difficulty in procuring it; indeed no country in the world is better watered than this portion of Australia.

Since the sailing of the Lynher the party had been actively engaged in building a shed for the stores. This labour was still continued, after my arrival, and completed on Christmas eve.

CHRISTMAS DINNER.

On Christmas Day we all dined together in a little booth made of boughs, which we dressed up as gaily as we could. I could not but feel considerable pleasure in seeing the happy countenances of the men ranged round the rough plank that formed our table. We sat down, a little band of nine, bound upon an adventure of which the issue to any and all of us was very uncertain: yet no forebodings appeared to damp the pleasure of the present moment; and as I anxiously looked round I could not detect the slightest trace of a gloomy thought in any of the cheerful faces that surrounded me. After dinner we drank the Queen's health, the first time such a toast had been given in these regions; and then, Mr. Walker and myself retiring to talk alone, left the rest to their own amus.e.m.e.nts.

1838.

PLANTING USEFUL SEEDS.

The interval between that and New Year's Day found and left us full of occupation. On this latter day I had resolved to do homage to the country by a seasonable gift; and therefore, rising with the earliest dawn, spent the whole day in planting, in various positions, seeds of the most useful fruits and vegetables. Those we had already planted were doing well, and I hoped that this benefaction might prove one of no small value, perhaps to civilized man, or at least to the natives of the vicinity.

WALK TO MUNSTER WATER.

January 4.

A party of us this day walked to Hanover Bay for the purpose of making some observations on the sandy beach there, after which we went over to Prince Regent's River, near Munster Water. The country until near the bank of the river at this point was of the same sandy nature as that about the beach: there however it improves; and from the circ.u.mstance of my finding a regular haunt of the natives I feel sure that there is plenty of fresh water in the neighbourhood. This place of their sojourn resembled one before described, and many others I had seen. An extensive circle was formed by laying a large flat stone upon the ground, and on each of these a smaller one; between the two they evidently crushed the sh.e.l.lfish and nuts which formed their food. Near some of the stones were laid huge sh.e.l.ls for the purpose of drinking from; and in the centre of the circle were the marks of frequent fires. We heard the natives calling to one another in the woods, but saw none of them; and in the evening returned to our encampment.

ISTHMUS NEAR HANOVER BAY.

January 6.

I made an excursion this day for the purpose of examining the land lying between Port George the Fourth and Hanover Bay: it consists of a low neck which connects the peninsula terminating in High Bluff Point with the main. Thus it is bounded on two sides by the sea, and on the other two by rocky hills which are perfectly precipitous, both towards the main and the peninsula; but a natural terrace runs along under the cliff in the direction of Camden Sound, which I believe would form a good road to that harbour. The tract thus enclosed appears to be very fertile. Porphyry and basalt are the common rocks. The soil is rich vegetable mould, mixed with gravel and covered with the most luxuriant gra.s.s. The trees were in general small. We only found three springs here; these however were sufficient to prove that it was well supplied in this respect. A species of plant was observed here, which in appearance and smell exactly resembled the jasmine of England: and it would be difficult to give any adequate impression of the singular sensation of pleasure derived from the sight of this simple emblem of home. Here were regular beaten tracks of the natives, as completely pathways as those we find in England leading from a village to a farmhouse.

HILL OF Sh.e.l.lS.

Near the sea we also came upon a complete hill of broken sh.e.l.ls, which it must have taken some centuries to form, for it covered nearly, if not quite, half an acre of ground, and in some places was ten feet high: it was situated just over a bed of c.o.c.kles, and was evidently formed from the remains of native feasts, as their fireplaces, and the last small heaps of sh.e.l.ls were visible on the summit of the hill.* This neck of land is undoubtedly of the first importance; for, lying as it does between Port George the Fourth and Hanover Bay, it commands two excellent harbours, and its soil is moreover highly fertile. I conceive that a point nearer Camden Bay would be of greater consequence to the mother country; but, after such a spot, this neck of land is the most important position on the North-west coast of Australia.

(*Footnote. A similar ma.s.s of sh.e.l.ls, though of smaller dimensions, is spoken of by Captain King, at Port Essington: A curious mound, constructed entirely of sh.e.l.ls, rudely heaped together, measuring thirty feet in diameter, and fourteen feet high, was also noticed near the beach, and was supposed to be a burying-place of the Indians. King's Australia volume 1 page 87.)

For some days after our return from this excursion all hands were occupied in drying the stores, which had suffered a little from the late rains; in planting barley and potatoes; and in a variety of occupations of the same nature.

EXCURSION TO COUNTRY ABOUT PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.

As all the necessary magnetic and astronomical observations were now completed I seized the opportunity offered by the first favourable day and started with a party of three in the direction of Prince Regent's River.

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