Volume I Part 13 (1/2)

We made the river about Halfway Bay, and then followed its course, keeping about a mile or two inland. A considerable portion of the land in the neighbourhood of the river was most excellent, consisting of rich meadow plains. The general proportion of good country compared with the bad was still however but small.

GOUTY-STEMMED TREES.

There was a very remarkable feature in the appearance of this part of the country, caused by the number of gouty stemmed trees (a species of Capparis ?) These trees grow to a considerable height, and had the appearance of suffering from some disease, but, from the circ.u.mstance of all of them being affected in the same way, this was undoubtedly their natural state. I measured one of the largest I here saw, and found that at eighteen inches above the ground its circ.u.mference was about twenty-eight feet six inches.

The foliage of this tree was slight but graceful, and it was loaded with a fruit of an elliptical form, as large as a coconut. This fruit was enclosed in a rind, closely resembling that of the almond, and inside the rind was a sh.e.l.l containing a soft white pulp, in which were placed a species of almond, very palatable to the taste, and arranged in this pulp much in the manner in which the seeds are placed in the pomegranate. Upon the bark of these trees being cut they yielded in small quant.i.ties a nutritious white gum, which both in taste and appearance resembles macaroni; and upon this bark being soaked in hot water an agreeable mucilaginous drink was produced.

This tree is, from this combination of useful qualities, a vegetable production of no slight value, and probably comes near the cocoa-nut tree in value. Its worth is well known to the natives for its vicinity is one of their favourite haunts. Around nearly all of them I have found marks of their fires, and on many of these trees were several successive rows of notches, formed in this manner:

All but the last row being invariably scratched out. These rows of notches were evidently of different ages, and I imagine must indicate the number of nuts taken each year from the tree.* I often also found rude drawings scratched upon the trees, but none of these sketches indicated anything but a very ordinary degree of talent, even for a savage: some were so imperfect that it was impossible to tell what they were meant to represent.

(*Footnote. This tree was also observed on this part of the continent by Captain King, who met with it both at Cambridge Gulf and Careening Bay, and describes it as follows: Mr. Cunningham was fortunate in finding the fruit of the tree that was first seen by us at Cambridge Gulf, and had for some time puzzled us from its immense size and peculiar appearance.

It proved to be a tree of the Natural Order Capparides, and was thought to be a Capparis; the gouty habit of the stem, which was soft and spongy, gave it an appearance of disease; but as all the specimens, from the youngest plant to the full-grown tree, possessed the same deformed appearance, it was evidently the peculiarity of its habit. The stem of the largest of these trees measured twenty-nine feet in girt, whilst its height did not exceed twenty-five feet. It bore some resemblance to the Adansonia figured in the account of Captain Tuckey's expedition to Congo.

King's Australia volume 1 page 423.)

SINGULAR PIECES OF SANDSTONE.

I this day again remarked a circ.u.mstance which had before this period elicited my attention; which was that we occasionally found fixed in the boughs of trees, at a considerable height from the ground, pieces of sandstone, nearly circular in form, about an inch and a half in thickness, and from four to five in diameter, so that they resembled small millstones. What was the object in thus fas.h.i.+oning and placing these stones I never could conceive, for they were generally in the least remarkable spots: they cannot point out burial places, for I have made such minute searches that in such a case I must have found some of the bones; neither can they indicate any peculiar route through the country, for two never occur near one another.

PREPARATION TO BUILD A BOAT.

On my return to the camp I found that the schooner had not yet arrived; I now began to fear that some accident had occurred, and made my preparations accordingly. The party was fully prepared to meet such a misfortune and, as we had the means of constructing a boat large enough to take us to Swan River, I felt more anxious for the safety of those in the vessel than for our own. That no time however might be lost I examined the neighbourhood of the encampment and found that within our immediate vicinity were plenty of trees well adapted for the purpose, which I marked, and had some of them felled.

CHAPTER 7. HANOVER BAY AND ITS VICINITY.

OCCUPATION AT THE CAMP.

During the absence of the schooner we had our attention fully engaged in forming a garden, collecting specimens, and building sheds for the stores. So difficult and rocky was the country we were in that I was employed for several days in finding a route by which unloaded horses could travel from the beach in Hanover Bay to the point where we were encamped, for the landing-place at the end of the ravine was so rocky as to be impracticable for that purpose. Mr. Walker at length discovered a pa.s.s in the cliffs, and by constructing a winding path in this he thought that we should be able to get loaded horses out of the valley. I feared that he was too sanguine, and therefore daily renewed my search in all directions. I travelled up the entire length of the ravine that we were encamped in but found that, even granting it was not flooded, we should find great difficulty in emerging by this route.

These circ.u.mstances made me resolve upon the return of the schooner to re-embark the stores, and land them again either upon a point I had fixed upon on the south bank of Prince Regent's River, or upon the neck of land I have before mentioned, which lay between Port George the Fourth and Hanover Bay; but I could not finally decide upon either of the points until the return of the vessel should enable me to examine the coast between Port George the Fourth and Camden Sound; for my party only consisted of nine men, of whom with the exception of three or four I knew nothing, and after what I had seen of the treacherous disposition of the natives I did not think, in my position, it would be prudent to absent myself from them for any length of time.

RETURN OF THE LYNHER.

Amidst such exciting and busy scenes, the time flew rapidly away until the 17th of January, when about 11 A.M. the report of a carronade came echoing up the valley. This was the preconcerted signal which was to announce to us that the vessel was safely at anchor in Hanover Bay. We were of course all anxiety to hear an account of their adventures, and to ascertain whether the horses were safe. I hastened directly to the landing-place, where I met Mr. Lus.h.i.+ngton and a party coming ash.o.r.e from the schooner.

RELATION OF PROCEEDINGS AT KUPANG TIMOR AND ROTI.

The following outline of their transactions was soon given:

They had quitted Hanover Bay on the 21st December at 9 A.M., and reached Kupang in the Island of Timor on the 1st of January. For the first three days until they got clear of the land they had every evening, soon after sunset, heavy squalls from the north-east, accompanied with thunder, lightning, and rain; the prevalent wind was however from the north-west.

The Lynher remained at Kupang until the 7th, during which time they completed their water and collected coconuts, bread-fruit trees, etc., to be planted in Australia; but as Mr. Lus.h.i.+ngton found that he should be able more easily to obtain ponies at the island of Roti than at Kupang, they sailed on the morning of the 7th for that place, and at 7 P.M. came to in the harbour of Rougun in eleven fathoms water, with muddy bottom.

They were enabled to procure at Roti the requisite number of horses by the evening of the 11th of January. The people of this island appeared to be excessively ignorant, knew but little of the nature and value of money, and were much astonished when they were shown a watch. Their favourite mode of disposing of their property was by barter; the articles they prized most were muskets and coa.r.s.e gunpowder, but they preferred having the gunpowder in a claret bottle, as if this was considered by them to be some definite measure which bore a certain value. They were not very particular about the quality of the muskets provided their outward form and appearance were tolerably good. I have since ascertained that the natives of the little-frequented islands of the Archipelago invariably prefer an old musket to a new one, as they conceive a totally new one may be unsafe, from having been made merely for the purpose of sale; whilst one which has seen service has been indisputably manufactured for use. If they entertain any doubt about the goodness of a musket they generally insist upon the seller's firing it off.

MODE OF BARTER AT ROTI.

The people of Roti are not allowed to fix themselves what is to be the price of their horses; all the details of the sale are settled by an a.s.semblage of chiefs: their constant cry in bartering (if anything else is offered to them) is ”schnapper, schnapper” (a musket, a musket). They refused at first to take percussion guns in exchange, but when they saw Captain Browse c.o.c.k one of these, pour a quant.i.ty of water over the lock, and fire it off, their astonishment knew no bounds, and they then eagerly bartered for them. When they found that all the muskets were exhausted they were content to take money and other articles in lieu: an old dress waistcoat of mine and a regulation breastplate procured eight small sheep; and Captain Browse got fourteen goats for a pair of old pistols.

The authorities give every encouragement to the trader; but the duties exacted are high, for at Kupang and Roti they demand six rupees duty for every horse exported, or musket imported. Arms and gunpowder are no longer considered contraband.