2 Welcome To Hell (1/2)

Dead silence lay in the streets and hung in the remains of houses eaten by bombs; that uneasy quiet that reigns after the cacophony of fighting has died away. I could see the ghosts of the war in every pair of eyes I looked into – lifeless eyes, empty of hope.

I noticed that the taxi driver's eyes were on me throughout, in the rear-view mirror – hard, fiery eyes, scorching my conscience; eyes that had confronted death too many times, eyes that had known too many deaths and held too much grief in them. I averted my own clean eyes, shamefacedly, looking outside. The pa.s.sing scenes were too grim.

Amidst all this desolation, I felt shamefully well-groomed – a neat haircut with precisely carved hairlines, a clean shave, a t-s.h.i.+rt whose orangeness was so unabashedly orange it seemed like a shout in the midst of such muted misery.

The people we pa.s.sed – dressed in a variety of rags, the children wrapped around their fathers' calves or hanging limply from their mothers' waists were naked, their stomachs convex and stretched taut, or concave and stretched thin – stared into the cab as though I was inside a foreign magazine. I felt like a glossy picture, a portrait of well-being, of healthy living.

The driver wore an ugly scowl that matched his worn flat cap. 'You just dey come?' he asked, in a low accusing voice.

I felt as if I had missed something, a party, an appointment. I nodded, 'Yes.'

'Wetin you come do?'

'I came to take film shots for my doc.u.mentary.'

'Film,' he said, the word bitter in his mouth, like a curse. He looked offended.

'Yes, a doc.u.men –'

He stopped the cab in the middle of the road, 'Come down.'

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'What?'

'I say get down!' he hissed.

'Have I offended you?'

'Come down first.'

'But I haven't reached where I asked you to take me –'