Part 6 (2/2)
The paG.o.da, which is about two miles from the business center of Rangoon, is built upon a mound. The circ.u.mference is thirteen hundred and fifty-five feet and the total height from the base is three hundred and seventy feet. It is constructed in circular style, its concentric rings gradually lessening in size until the top is reached. This is surmounted by a gilt iron work or ”ti” on which little bells are hung.
This ”ti” was a gift from the late king of Burmah, who spent a quarter of a million dollars on its decoration with gold and precious stones.
The mound on which the paG.o.da stands is divided into two rectangular terraces. The upper terrace, nine hundred feet by six hundred and eighty-five, is one hundred and sixty-six feet above the level of the ground. The ascent is by three flights of brick stairs, the fourth flight at the back being closed to permit of the building of fortifications by which the English may defend the paG.o.da in any emergency. The southern or main entrance is made conspicuous by two enormous leogryphs, which are of plastered brick.
Up these steep stairs the visitor climbs, pestered by loathsome beggars and importuned on every hand to buy relics, flowers and articles of gold and silver. One would fancy he was in a great bazar rather than in the entrance hall of the finest monument in the world erected in honor of Buddha. The four chapels ranged around the rectangular terrace are ornamented by figures of the sitting Buddha. Then one visits a score of magnificently decorated shrines, in which are Buddhas in every variety of position. In one is the reclining Gautama in alabaster, in whose honor the paG.o.da was built. In others are Gautamas of bra.s.s, ivory, gla.s.s, clay and wood. Before many of these shrines candles are burning and devotees are seated or are praying with their faces bowed to the stone pavement. On one side of the platform is a row of miniature paG.o.das, all encrusted with decoration of gold and precious stones, the gifts of thousands of pious devotees. Among these shrines are many small bells which are rung by wors.h.i.+ppers when they deposit their offerings, and one great bell (the third largest in the world, weighing forty-two and one-fourth tons), given by King Tharrawaddy.
The eyes of the visitor are wearied with the splendid decoration of the chapels, the gilding, the carving, the inlaid gla.s.s work. It seems as though there was no end to the rows on rows of Buddhas in every conceivable position. Interspersed among them are tall poles from which float long streamers of bamboo bearing painted historical pictures, including those of the capture of the paG.o.da by the British. Thousands crowd these platforms. Some offer gifts to various shrines, others say prayer after prayer, still others strike bells to give warning to evil spirits that they have offered up their pet.i.tions to Buddha, others hang eagerly on the words of fortune tellers. All buy food and drink and the whole place suggests in its good cheer a country picnic rather than a pilgrimage to the greatest Buddhist shrine in the world.
When one has left the paG.o.da he bears the memory of magnificent decorations, of vast crowds, but of little real reverence. The great golden paG.o.da itself is the dominating feature in every view of Rangoon, just as the Was.h.i.+ngton monument dominates all other structures in Was.h.i.+ngton.
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE XXV
Queen's Road in Hongkong. This is One of the Most Picturesque Streets in the Orient, With Large Stores and Splendid Gilded Signs on Each Side. The Buildings Are so Constructed That the Sidewalk Becomes a Shaded Arcade]
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE XXVI
Flower Market in a Hongkong Street--One of the Prettiest Sights in Hongkong, as Orchids, Irises, Lilies and Other Blossoms Are Always on Sale]
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE XXVII
Coolies Carrying Burdens at Hongkong.
Chinese Coolies Using the Bamboo Pole Are a Common Sight in Hongkong. They Carry Several Hundred Pounds, Moving at a Dog Trot]
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE XXVIII
The s.p.a.cious Foreign Bund at Hongkong, With the Row of Lofty Business Buildings.
The Ferry Takes One to Kowloon, the Native City, Opposite Hongkong]
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE XXIX
Chinese Junks in Hongkong Harbor, These Junks, With Their Curious Sails of Matting and Bamboo Spars, Form One of the Features of Every Chinese Harbour or Sea View]
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE x.x.x
View of the Water-front at Canton. This General View of the Pearl River and the Canton Bund, or Water-front, Shows the Enormous Floating Population on the River]
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE x.x.xI
The New Chinese Bund at Canton. The Chinese Recently Completed This Bund.
It Contrasts Strongly With the Ancient Walled City, a Stone's Throw in the Rear]
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE x.x.xII
A Confucian Festival at Singapore. This Shows the Elaborate Street Decorations to Commemorate the Festival of Confucius in the Chinese Quarter]
[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE x.x.xIII
A Main Street in the Native Quarter of Singapore. The Shops Are Small and the Shopkeepers Live in the Rooms Above. The Flags Displayed Are Those of the New Chinese Republic]
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