Part 28 (1/2)

Pour a honey syrup over the cold muhallabeya muhallabeya. For the syrup: Bring to the boil 3 tablespoons honey with cup water. Stir well, and add 1 tablespoon orange-blossom or rose water. Let it cool, and pour over the cold, firmed cream. It will seep in gradually.

It can also be decorated with crystallized rose petals or violets.

An Algerian touch is to add the grated zest of 1 lemon to the cream, and to garnish with a dusting of cinnamon.

For a stiffer cream that can be molded, increase the amount of rice flour to up to cup. Pour into oiled individual molds and turn out just before serving, then decorate with nuts.

When a bowl of muhallabeya muhallabeya is garnished very lavishly with mounds of chopped nuts of different kinds (it can be done in a gorgeous pattern), it is called, with intended irony, ”dish of the poor”- is garnished very lavishly with mounds of chopped nuts of different kinds (it can be done in a gorgeous pattern), it is called, with intended irony, ”dish of the poor”-keshk elfu'ara.

Keskul Almond Pudding Serves 6 * This Turkish cream with ground almonds is one of my favorite milk puddings. * This Turkish cream with ground almonds is one of my favorite milk puddings.

cup blanched almonds 4 cups whole milk 4 tablespoons rice flour cup sugar cup blanched almonds 4 cups whole milk 4 tablespoons rice flour cup sugar A few drops of almond extract 2 tablespoons finely chopped pistachios to garnish Grind the almonds in the food processor (the texture is best if you do not use commercially ground ones).

Bring the milk to the boil and take off the heat.

In a small bowl, mix the rice flour to a paste with 4-5 tablespoons cold water, making sure there are no lumps. Pour this into the milk, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon, and cook-stirring constantly and always in the same direction, to keep lumps from forming- for about 15 minutes, or until the mixture begins to thicken.

Add the sugar and ground almonds and continue to cook on the lowest possible heat, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes, or until the consistency is that of a thin porridge. Always stir in the same direction, and do not sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan, as the bottom tends to stick and burn a little, and you do not want to sc.r.a.pe up any burnt bits. Stir in the almond extract and pour into a serving bowl or individual bowls. Let the cream cool before sprinkling on the pistachios. Serve chilled.

Saffron Caramel Cream Serves 6 * A friend described the flavors of a pudding she tasted in an Iranian restaurant, and I applied them to the cla.s.sic * A friend described the flavors of a pudding she tasted in an Iranian restaurant, and I applied them to the cla.s.sic creme caramel creme caramel. It is magnificent.

2 cups whole milk cups whole milk cup sugar plus 4 more tablespoons to make the caramel A pinch of saffron threads teaspoon cardamom seeds 2 tablespoons rose water 4 eggs, lightly beaten Scald the milk with the cup sugar, the saffron, and the cardamom and let it cool to lukewarm. Add the rose water, and gradually beat in the eggs.

Heat the remaining 4 tablespoons sugar in a small pan until it melts and becomes dark brown. Add 4 tablespoons water. The liquid caramel will harden and then melt and bubble. Pour into a mold (a ring or round mold about 1 quart). Turn the mold around so that the liquid caramel reaches and covers every part. Use a spoon to help spread it up the sides. Heating the mold in the oven beforehand will keep the caramel (which hardens as it cools) runny for longer. If you use a pan as mold, you can prepare the caramel straight in it.

Let the caramel cool before pouring in the milk mixture slowly (too much force will disturb the caramel). Place the mold or can in a pan of water and bake in a 350F oven for about 1-1 hours, or until the custard has set.

Chill before turning out. Run a pointed knife around the edges of the mold, place a serving dish on top, and turn upside down.

Balouza Scented Jelly Serves 6 * It looks like white opaline encrusted with little stones. When it is served, it trembles like a jelly. It is customary for an admiring audience to compliment a belly dancer by comparing her tummy to a * It looks like white opaline encrusted with little stones. When it is served, it trembles like a jelly. It is customary for an admiring audience to compliment a belly dancer by comparing her tummy to a balouza balouza.

cup cornstarch cup cornstarch 4 cups water cup sugar, or to taste cup sugar, or to taste 3 tablespoons orange-blossom or rose water cup coa.r.s.ely chopped blanched cup coa.r.s.ely chopped blanched almonds or pistachio nuts Mix the cornstarch to a smooth paste with a little of the water in a large pan. Add the rest of the water and the sugar, and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until dissolved. Bring to the boil slowly, stirring constantly, then put on the lowest heat and simmer gently, still stirring continually, until the mixture thickens.

To test if it is ready, dip a spoon in the hot cream and see if it clings and coats the spoon. Another test is to drop teaspoon of it onto a cold plate-if it remains a solid little ball and does not flatten out, it has thickened enough.

Stir in orange-blossom or rose water and continue to cook for 1-2 minutes more. Add the chopped nuts, stir well, and pour into a gla.s.s bowl. Serve chilled. It will set firmly.

Variations You can make this not too sweet (with less sugar) and add a spoonful of rose-petal or quince jam to each serving.

For balouza muhallabeya balouza muhallabeya, a creamier, less firm version, use milk instead of water. Leave out the nuts and use them as garnish instead. Flavor if you like with teaspoon mastic, pounded or ground to a powder with a pinch of sugar. Chill and decorate with chopped blanched almonds or pistachios, or with both. This is the pudding you will usually find in Lebanese restaurants today.

RIDDLE:.

A sparkling saber, so sweet to pull out. The kings of the East and the kings of the West cannot put it back into its sheath. What is it?

ANSWER:.

Milk.

Balta or Hetalia Serves 6 * This is Syrian and beautiful, like white blossoms and brown leaves floating in a pure scented stream, but it is not to everybody's taste. * This is Syrian and beautiful, like white blossoms and brown leaves floating in a pure scented stream, but it is not to everybody's taste.

1 recipebalouza (preceding recipe) (preceding recipe) FOR THE THE SYRUP SYRUP.

2 cups cold water cups cold water cup sugar, or more to taste 1 tablespoon orange-blossom or rose water, or to taste cup black or golden raisins cup split blanched almonds cup chopped pistachio nuts Prepare the balouza balouza and pour into a moistened square or rectangular dish (about 8 or 9 inches), so as to have a thick layer. Cool, then chill in the refrigerator. When it has set into a firm jelly, cut it into 1-inch squares with a knife. and pour into a moistened square or rectangular dish (about 8 or 9 inches), so as to have a thick layer. Cool, then chill in the refrigerator. When it has set into a firm jelly, cut it into 1-inch squares with a knife.

Prepare the syrup, which is not cooked, straight into a large gla.s.s serving bowl: Pour in the water and add sugar and a little orange-blossom or rose water, and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Taste again, and add sugar if it is not sweet enough, or water if it is too sweet. Stir in the raisins, the almonds, and the pistachios.

Turn out the squares of balouza balouza and drop them into the syrup. Stir gently and serve. and drop them into the syrup. Stir gently and serve.

Roz bi Haleeb Rice Pudding Serves 6 * Mastic, the resin from the lentisk tree, a native of the Greek island of Chios, gives this homely pudding an intriguing and, to me, very delicious flavor. (Lebanese p.r.o.nounce it * Mastic, the resin from the lentisk tree, a native of the Greek island of Chios, gives this homely pudding an intriguing and, to me, very delicious flavor. (Lebanese p.r.o.nounce it miskeh miskeh, and some restaurants wrongly call it ”musk.”) It is bought in small translucent grains or crystals. You have to pound or grind them to a powder with a pinch of sugar.

1 cup short-grain or round rice 1 cups water 5 cups whole milk cup sugar, or to taste 1 tablespoon orange-blossom or rose water 1/4 teaspoon powdered mastic teaspoon powdered mastic Boil the rice in the water for 8 minutes. Add the milk and simmer over very low heat for 30-45 minutes, stirring occasionally to make sure that the bottom does not stick and burn.

When the rice is very soft and the milk is not entirely absorbed, add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Add orange-blossom or rose water and the mastic, and stir vigorously. Cook for minute longer, and pour into a serving bowl. The pudding should be creamy. If it is dry, add a little milk.

Serve hot or cold.

Variations Garnish, if you like, with chopped nuts, or top with fruit preserves or fruits poached in syrup.

Pour the pudding into a baking dish and bake at 350F for 30 minutes, until a brown crust forms.

Om Ali Egyptian ”Bread-and-b.u.t.ter” Pudding Serves 8 * The name means ”Ali's mother,” and it is the most popular sweet in Egypt. I had never heard of it when I lived there, but now it is everywhere. People in Cairo say it arrived in the city from the villages of Upper Egypt, but there it is said to be from Cairo. One joker explained that it was a bread pudding introduced by a Miss O'Malley, an Irish mistress of the Khedive Ismail. Go and believe him! People find all sorts of ways of making it-with pancakes, with thinly rolled-out puff pastry, with pieces of bread, and with fillo pastry. Fillo gives the most appealing texture, and it is good to bake the pastry initially rather than fry it in b.u.t.ter as is usual in Egypt. * The name means ”Ali's mother,” and it is the most popular sweet in Egypt. I had never heard of it when I lived there, but now it is everywhere. People in Cairo say it arrived in the city from the villages of Upper Egypt, but there it is said to be from Cairo. One joker explained that it was a bread pudding introduced by a Miss O'Malley, an Irish mistress of the Khedive Ismail. Go and believe him! People find all sorts of ways of making it-with pancakes, with thinly rolled-out puff pastry, with pieces of bread, and with fillo pastry. Fillo gives the most appealing texture, and it is good to bake the pastry initially rather than fry it in b.u.t.ter as is usual in Egypt.

6 sheets of fillo 6-8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, melted cup black or golden raisins 1 cup mixed whole or slivered blanched almonds, chopped hazelnuts, and chopped pistachios 5 cups whole milk 1 cups heavy cream - cup sugar 1-2 teaspoons cinnamon (optional) Leave the sheets of fillo in a pile to keep them from drying out. Brush each one with melted b.u.t.ter and place them on top of each other on a b.u.t.tered baking sheet.

Put the b.u.t.tered fillo sheets in a preheated 350F oven for about 10 minutes, until they are crisp and the top ones are very slightly colored.

When cool enough to handle, crush the pastry with your hands into pieces into a baking dish, sprinkling raisins and nuts in between the layers.

Bring the milk and cream to the boil in a pan with the sugar, and pour over the pastry. Sprinkle, if you like, with cinnamon, and return to the oven. Raise the heat to 425F and bake for about 20-30 minutes, or until slightly golden.

Serve hot.

Variations You may bake the pudding in individual clay bowls, as they do in Egyptian restaurants.

A Moroccan version has the boiling milk and cream poured onto crisp, fried paper-thin pastry broken into small pieces. It is eaten like a cereal with nuts and raisins without further baking.