Part 21 (2/2)

In Iraq, large brown beans are used instead of the small Egyptian ones, in a dish called bad-kila bad-kila, which is also sold for breakfast in the street.

RIDDLE:.

It is divided into two equal parts and covered by a strong skin. Praised be G.o.d, who made it! And how do Arabs call it?

ANSWER: El ful.

Lentils in b.u.t.ter Serves 6 A good partner to omelets, little spicy sausages, and fried or broiled eggplant. A good partner to omelets, little spicy sausages, and fried or broiled eggplant.

2 cups large green or brown lentils, washed 1 onion, chopped 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped Pepper 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min Salt 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Juice of lemon (optional) In a large saucepan, fry the onion in the oil until soft and golden, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and stir until it just begins to color.

Add the lentils, pour in about 2 cups water, and bring to the boil. Add pepper and c.u.min, and simmer gently, covered, for about 20-30 minutes, until the lentils are tender, adding salt when they begin to soften. Add more water as it becomes absorbed and let it reduce at the end.

Serve with the b.u.t.ter stirred in until melted, and a squeeze of lemon if you like.

To dream of eating beans forebodes quarrelling and discord.

EGYPTIAN DREAM BOOK, 1231.

Adds bel Tamatem Lentils in Tomato Sauce Serves 4 This is good hot or cold, with plenty of raw olive oil. This is good hot or cold, with plenty of raw olive oil.

2 cloves garlic, crushed 3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 cup large green or brown lentils, washed Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon sugar cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Heat the garlic in 1 tablespoon of the oil for a moment or two, until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes and cook for 3 minutes. Then add the lentils and about 1 cup water. Stir and simmer, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the lentils are tender, adding salt, pepper, and sugar when they begin to soften.

Before serving, add parsley and stir in the remaining oil.

Shula Kalambar Lentils with Spinach Serves 6 A lentil-and-spinach dish was prepared in medieval Persia to heal the sick. For the cure to be effective, the ingredients had to be bought with money begged in the streets. Here is a modern version. A lentil-and-spinach dish was prepared in medieval Persia to heal the sick. For the cure to be effective, the ingredients had to be bought with money begged in the streets. Here is a modern version.

1 cups large green or brown lentils, washed Salt 1 pound fresh spinach or frozen leaf spinach 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or olive oil 2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon ground c.u.min Pepper Boil the lentils in water for about 20 minutes, or until very tender, adding salt when they begin to soften, then drain.

Wash and drain the spinach and remove any hard stems. Put it in the pan with the lid on over very low heat for a minute or two, until the leaves crumple into a soft ma.s.s. They will steam in the water that clings to them. If using frozen spinach, defrost. Cut the spinach leaves into ribbons.

Heat the b.u.t.ter or oil in the pan. Add the garlic with the coriander and c.u.min and stir for a moment or so, until the aroma rises. Now put in the lentils and spinach, add pepper, stir very well, and cook for a few minutes more.

Chickpeas with Turmeric Serves 6 In Morocco it is poor food eaten hot with bread. A grander version with saffron is served as a first course. You may use canned chickpeas. The same can also be done with white cannelini beans, dried or canned. In Morocco it is poor food eaten hot with bread. A grander version with saffron is served as a first course. You may use canned chickpeas. The same can also be done with white cannelini beans, dried or canned.

2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon turmeric 1 cups chickpeas, soaked overnight, or two 15-ounce cans chickpeas, drained Salt and pepper 1 cup chopped cilantro or flat-leaf parsley Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion until golden. Add the garlic and stir for a moment or two. Stir in the turmeric and add the drained soaked chickpeas. Cover with water and simmer for 1 hours, or until the chickpeas are very tender, adding salt and pepper when they have begun to soften, and water to keep them covered. Reduce the liquid at the end so that you have a thick sauce.

If using canned chickpeas, drain them and add -1 cup water and cook for about 20 minutes, to allow them to absorb the flavors.

Stir in the cilantro or parsley and cook 5 minutes more.

Variations Use teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powder instead of the turmeric.

Add the juice of 1 lemon.

Cannelini beans, dried and soaked overnight, or canned ones, drained, can be used in the same way as chickpeas.

For different, spicy chickpeas, omit the turmeric and add teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon c.u.min, and teaspoon ground chili pepper.

For another Moroccan version, omit the turmeric, put a chili pepper in the cooking water, season with salt and pepper when the chickpeas have already softened, and add chopped cilantro at the end, when the water has almost evaporated.

Fattet Hummus Chickpeas with Yogurt and Soaked Bread Serves 4-6 A number of popular Lebanese dishes which go under the name of A number of popular Lebanese dishes which go under the name of fatta fatta (see page 222) involve yogurt and a bed of soaked toasted or fried bread. This one is served for breakfast accompanied by scallions and green peppers cut into strips. (see page 222) involve yogurt and a bed of soaked toasted or fried bread. This one is served for breakfast accompanied by scallions and green peppers cut into strips.

cup chickpeas, soaked in cold water cup chickpeas, soaked in cold water overnight Salt 2-2 cups Greek-style thick drained yogurt or plain whole-milk yogurt 3 cloves garlic, crushed Pepper 2 pita breads TO GARNISH.

1-2 tablespoons dried mint leaves 3-4 tablespoons pine nuts 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Good pinch of ground chili pepper or flakes (optional) Drain the chickpeas and simmer in fresh water to cover until they are really very soft, usually well over an hour, adding salt only when they are nearly done.

Beat the yogurt with the garlic and pepper.

Open out the pita breads and leave them for a few minutes in a very hot oven, or turn them under the broiler until they are crisp and very lightly browned. Then break them up with your hands into the bottom of a serving dish. Pour the chickpeas and some of their cooking water over the bread, soaking it thoroughly, keeping out a few chickpeas to decorate the dish.

Pour the yogurt mixture over the chickpeas.

To garnish, crush the mint leaves over the top. Fry the pine nuts in the b.u.t.ter or oil until they are a light brown. Sprinkle these and the extra chickpeas over the yogurt. Some people like to sprinkle on hot ground chili pepper or chili flakes.

Serve at once, while the chickpeas are hot and the rest is lukewarm.

Variations A Damascus version called ta.s.seia ta.s.seia has the chickpeas crushed with a pestle and mortar and mixed with 2-3 tablespoons tahina, the juice of lemon, and 1 crushed garlic clove. You can put this in a blender with a little of the cooking liquor. Squeeze a little lemon juice in the chickpea water before sprinkling over the bread, spread the mashed chickpea cream over the top, and cover with yogurt, then garnish as before. has the chickpeas crushed with a pestle and mortar and mixed with 2-3 tablespoons tahina, the juice of lemon, and 1 crushed garlic clove. You can put this in a blender with a little of the cooking liquor. Squeeze a little lemon juice in the chickpea water before sprinkling over the bread, spread the mashed chickpea cream over the top, and cover with yogurt, then garnish as before.

Instead of toasting the bread, some people like to cut it into triangles and deep-fry them in hot oil, then drain the pieces on paper towels and carry on as above.

An old version of this dish is made with lamb's trotters, which give a deliciously rich flavor and texture to the stock.

Rice ROZ.

Rice is the grand prestigious dish, the festive dish that has pride of place at banquets and on all celebratory occasions. In the cities, for those who can afford it, it is also an everyday family dish. Rice was first introduced in the marshlands of the area through Persia from India, and was spread by the Arabs as far as Sicily and Spain. By the tenth century it had become an important basic food in the Middle East. In many countries today it forms the main part of the meal, with small amounts of meat and vegetables as garnish or accompaniment. It is roz roz to the Arabs and to the Arabs and pilav pilav to the Turks. Iranians call it to the Turks. Iranians call it chelow chelow when it is plain, and when it is plain, and polow polow when combined with other ingredients. In the Arabian Gulf they have taken to an Indian way of making it and call it when combined with other ingredients. In the Arabian Gulf they have taken to an Indian way of making it and call it biriyan biriyan.

Plain rice is served with stews, grilled meats, and salads, and it is also accompanied by sauces. It is sometimes colored yellow with saffron or turmeric, or red with tomatoes, and it can be garnished with nuts. It is molded into various shapes for presentation, a favorite being a ring. Rice is also cooked with other ingredients, such as vegetables, fruit, nuts, meat, chicken, and fish. In Middle Eastern tradition, it is served at the same time as all the other dishes, to be chosen first or last, to each individual's taste. Some people claim that they cannot taste anything without eating rice at the same time. In families where the Western style of serving three courses has been adopted, rice is often served at the end of the meal, accompanied by a special sauce, or by part of the main dish which has been set aside to be savored with it. In Turkey it is sometimes served at the end of the meal to accompany dried fruit in syrup (see Khoshaf, page 409).

Many different types of rice exist. It is grown in Iran, Iraq, Syria, Egypt, and Turkey. Varieties of long-grain, usually those grown locally, are generally used for savory rice dishes. Short-grain (also known as ”pudding” rice) and medium-grain (risotto rice) are used for stuffing vegetables or for puddings, because they stick together in the stuffing and become creamy quickly when cooked in milk. The special appeal of long-grain lies in its ability to be tender while remaining firm and separate. The finest-quality long-grains are cultivated in Iran, where there are at least six different and particularly fragrant varieties. The most prestigious, which are used for very special occasions because they are very expensive, are the black-tailed domsiah domsiah, the imperial-court darbari darbari, and the amber-scented ambar-bu ambar-bu. Then come sadri sadri, which is the most commonly used; the dagger-shaped khanjari; khanjari; and the sweet and the sweet s.h.i.+kari s.h.i.+kari. In Turkey, bersani bersani is the rice commonly used, although is the rice commonly used, although kulakli kulakli, which is grown in small quant.i.ties near the Syrian border, is considered the best of the home-grown. In Egypt, ras.h.i.+di ras.h.i.+di rice is the most appreciated. None of these are available in America. American long-grain and the prestigious basmati, which is closest to the third quality of Persian rice and is the most widely favored rice in the Middle East for its wonderful flavor and aroma, are fine alternatives. Originally from India and Pakistan, basmati is now also grown in Texas. rice is the most appreciated. None of these are available in America. American long-grain and the prestigious basmati, which is closest to the third quality of Persian rice and is the most widely favored rice in the Middle East for its wonderful flavor and aroma, are fine alternatives. Originally from India and Pakistan, basmati is now also grown in Texas.

Ways of Cooking Plain Rice A Syrian Way Serves 4-6 2 cups long-grain or basmati rice 3 cups water Salt 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Wash the rice, if basmati, in warm water, then rinse, and drain. American long-grain does not need was.h.i.+ng. Bring the water to the boil in a pan with a little salt to taste. Throw in the drained rice, bring to the boil again, and boil vigorously for 2 minutes. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and cook over very low heat, undisturbed, for about 20 minutes, until the water has been absorbed and the rice is cooked. It should be tender and separate, with little holes all over the surface. Turn off the heat, and allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes.

Melt the b.u.t.ter in a saucepan and pour it evenly all over the rice. Let it rest again, covered, for 5 minutes longer, until the melted fat has been absorbed by the rice. It tastes better with b.u.t.ter, but you may use oil instead.

An Egyptian riddle describes the manner of serving rice at the end of a meal: QUESTION:.

Why is rice like a shaouish shaouish (policeman)? (policeman)?

ANSWER:.

It is brilliantly white like the shaouish's shaouish's uniform in the summer, and it arrives at the end like the shaouish when everything (i.e., the trouble) is over.

A Lebanese Way The ingredients and quant.i.ties (to serve 4-6) are the same as above.

Wash the rice if basmati, and drain well. It is not necessary to wash American long-grain. Put the 3 cups of water, salt, and 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a saucepan, and bring to the boil. Throw in the rice and boil vigorously for 2 minutes. Cover the pan tightly and cook over very low heat, undisturbed, for about 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and fluffy, and little holes have appeared all over the surface. Turn off the heat and allow to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

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