Part 16 (1/2)

Variations A Lebanese version is flavored with 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 1 teaspoon crushed cardamom seeds instead of the spices used above. Small meatb.a.l.l.s-made with 1 pound ground beef or lamb blended to a paste in the food processor with 1 grated onion and 1 cup bulgur-are sometimes added.

Instead of the quinces, pears or sharp green apples, peeled and quartered and sauteed in b.u.t.ter or oil or a mixture of both, may be added to the stew towards the end of the cooking.

Chicken is also cooked with quinces in the same way as lamb.

ARAB PROVERB:.

”A guest is the captive of the whole quarter.”

(Said to a guest who declines the invitation of his host's friends.) Lamb with Apples and Cherries Serves 6 * This is a Persian stew which is a sauce for plain rice. You will find many more Persian sauces with meat in the rice chapter. Use dried pitted sour cherries. * This is a Persian stew which is a sauce for plain rice. You will find many more Persian sauces with meat in the rice chapter. Use dried pitted sour cherries.

2 pounds lean lamb, cubed 2 tablespoons vegetable oil cup yellow split peas Salt and pepper 1 cups dried pitted sour cherries 1 tart apple, peeled, cored, and diced Lemon juice (optional) In a large pan, brown the meat in the oil until lightly colored all over. Add the yellow split peas and water to cover, and season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil and skim off any sc.u.m. Cover the pan and simmer for about 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender.

Add the cherries, diced apple, lemon juice (if the fruits are not tart), and a little more water if necessary. Cook for a further hour and serve hot.

Lahma bel Karaz Meatb.a.l.l.s with Sour Cherries Serves 6-8 * This is an old family recipe which originates in Syria. It is easy to make now that dried pitted sour cherries are available. We used to have to pit them. Serve it with rice or, as was usual in the old days, on miniature pita breads split in half, soft side up. * This is an old family recipe which originates in Syria. It is easy to make now that dried pitted sour cherries are available. We used to have to pit them. Serve it with rice or, as was usual in the old days, on miniature pita breads split in half, soft side up.

1 cups dried pitted sour cherries 1 pounds lean ground lamb or veal Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Vegetable oil 1 large onion, chopped Juice of 1 lemon Miniature ”picnic” rounds of pita bread to serve on (optional) Soak the sour cherries in water to cover for 1 1 hour. hour.

Put the meat in a bowl. Add salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon, and knead vigorously to achieve a soft, pasty texture. Roll into b.a.l.l.s the size of fat marbles and fry briefly in shallow oil, turning them and shaking the pan until they change color all over. You will have to do them in batches. Lift them out with a slotted spoon. They should be pink and underdone inside.

In a large saucepan, fry the onion in 2 tablespoons oil till soft and golden, add the cherries with their soaking water and the lemon juice, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the meatb.a.l.l.s and cook gently for 5-10 minutes, turning them until they are cooked through and have absorbed the cherry juices.

Serve the meatb.a.l.l.s with their sauce on little rounds of pita bread split in half and arranged on a large flat platter. Or serve with plain rice.

Variations Prepare a tomato sauce: Fry a chopped onion with 2 chopped garlic cloves in 2 tablespoons oil. Add 4 peeled and chopped tomatoes, 1 tablespoon tomato paste, and a little water. Add the cherries and meatb.a.l.l.s and simmer until the meatb.a.l.l.s are tender.

For another Syrian version, blend half the soaked cherries with the soaking water in the food processor and add 1-2 tablespoons pomegranate syrup (concentrate or mola.s.ses).

Meat Pie with Mashed Potatoes Serves 6-8 * I love this Arab equivalent of shepherd's pie. * I love this Arab equivalent of shepherd's pie.

2 pounds mealy potatoes Salt 6-8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces cup milk FOR THE THE FILLING FILLING.

2 onions, chopped 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 pounds ground lamb or beef Salt and pepper 1 teaspoons cinnamon teaspoon allspice cup pine nuts 3 tablespoons raisins (optional) Peel and boil the potatoes in salted water until done. Drain, mash them, and stir in the b.u.t.ter and milk. Season with salt and beat well.

For the filling, fry the onions in 3 tablespoons of the oil, stirring occasionally. Start on very low heat with a lid on until they are soft, then let them color with the lid off. Add the ground meat, salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice, and cook, crus.h.i.+ng and turning the meat over, for 10 minutes. If you like, strain off the fat.

Heat the pine nuts in about tablespoon of oil in a skillet, shaking the pan to brown them lightly all over, then stir them into the meat mixture. If you like, stir in the raisins.

Spread a layer of meat filling at the bottom of a large baking dish (about 14 by 10 inches), cover with a layer of mashed potatoes, and press down to flatten. Bake in a preheated 400F oven for 30 minutes, or until lightly browned.

Batoursh Ground Meat with Eggplants and Yogurt Serves 4-6 * This intriguing layered dish with a delicious mix of textures and flavors is a specialty of the city of Hama in Syria. * This intriguing layered dish with a delicious mix of textures and flavors is a specialty of the city of Hama in Syria.

3 eggplants, weighing about 1 pounds 4 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 2 onions, chopped 1 pound ground lamb or beef Salt and pepper cup pine nuts 2 cups plain whole-milk or thick strained yogurt (see page 110), at room temperature 3 tablespoons tahina (sesame paste) (optional) 2 cloves garlic, crushed Cook the eggplants under the broiler or roast them in the oven, then peel, chop, and mash them to a puree (see page 63). Beat in 2 tablespoons of the oil.

Fry the onions in the remaining oil in a large skillet until soft. Add the ground meat, salt, and pepper and cook, crus.h.i.+ng the meat and turning it over, for about 8 minutes, until it changes color. Add the pine nuts and cook 5 minutes more. Set aside, and reheat just before serving.

Beat the yogurt with the tahina, if using, and garlic.

To serve, spread a layer of the eggplant puree (warm or at room temperature) at the bottom of a serving dish. Pour the yogurt on top, and cover with the hot ground meat and pine nuts.

Moussaka Serves 6-8 * This famously Greek dish is to be found throughout the Arab world without the creamy topping. Broiling or grilling instead of frying the eggplants makes for a lighter and lovelier moussaka. This one is made up of a layer of eggplants, a layer of meat and tomatoes, and a layer of cheesy white (bechamel-type) sauce. Serve with salad and yogurt. * This famously Greek dish is to be found throughout the Arab world without the creamy topping. Broiling or grilling instead of frying the eggplants makes for a lighter and lovelier moussaka. This one is made up of a layer of eggplants, a layer of meat and tomatoes, and a layer of cheesy white (bechamel-type) sauce. Serve with salad and yogurt.

FOR THE THE MEAT AND TOMATOES MEAT AND TOMATOES.

2 onions, thinly sliced or chopped 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pounds ground lamb or beef Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons cinnamon (optional) 5 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped 2 teaspoons sugar teaspoon chili-pepper flakes (optional) 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley FOR THE THE WHITE SAUCE TOPPING WHITE SAUCE TOPPING.

4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 4 tablespoons flour 2 cups hot milk Salt and pepper Pinch of grated nutmeg 2 eggs cup grated cheddar 3 eggplants (about 1 pounds total) left unpeeled, cut crosswise in -inch slices Vegetable or olive oil Fry the onions in the oil in a large skillet or saucepan until golden. Add the ground meat and stir, crus.h.i.+ng it with a fork and turning it over, until it changes color. Add salt, pepper, cinnamon if using, tomatoes, sugar, and chili flakes if you like. Stir well, and cook until the liquid has almost disappeared, then mix in the parsley.

Prepare a white sauce: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a pan. Add the flour and stir over low heat for a few minutes, until well blended. Add the hot milk a little at a time, stirring vigorously each time, until it boils, taking care not to allow lumps to form. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens. Add salt and pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Beat the eggs lightly, beat in a little of the white sauce, then pour back into the pan, beating vigorously. Do not allow the sauce to boil again. Add the cheese and mix well until melted.

Brush the eggplant slices generously with oil and broil or grill them, turning them over once, until lightly browned. Line the bottom of a large baking dish (about 14 by 10 inches) with half the slices. Spread the meat on top, and cover with the remaining eggplant slices. Pour the white sauce all over.

Bake, uncovered, in a preheated 400F oven for about 45 minutes, until golden.

Serve hot, straight from the dish. It can also be cooked in small individual clay bowls, the layers repeated in the same way.

Koukla Meatb.a.l.l.s Serves 4 or more * From the Greek word for ”doll,” these Greek meatb.a.l.l.s make lovely finger food, as good cold as they are hot. From the Greek word for ”doll,” these Greek meatb.a.l.l.s make lovely finger food, as good cold as they are hot.

1 slice white bread, crusts removed 1 pound lamb, beef, or veal 1 egg teaspoon ground allspice or teaspoon ground cinnamon Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Vegetable oil for shallow frying Soak the bread in water and squeeze dry. Put the meat in the food processor with the bread, egg, allspice or cinnamon, salt, and pepper, and blend to a soft h.o.m.ogenous paste. Add parsley, and process very briefly to amalgamate it.

Wet your hands with water and roll the meat paste into marble-sized b.a.l.l.s, and deep-fry in hot oil for a few minutes, until cooked through and a rich brown color. Drain on paper towels.

Variation For an alternative Arab flavor, use 1 teaspoon c.u.min and teaspoon coriander and, if you like, a pinch of ground chili pepper, instead of allspice or cinnamon.

Armenian Kofta with Mashed Potato, Pine Nuts, and Raisins Serves 4 1 mealy potato, weighing about 12 ounces Salt and pepper cup pine nuts Vegetable oil for frying 1 pound ground lean lamb or veal 1 small egg, lightly beaten cup black or golden raisins Flour Peel and boil the potato in salted water until tender, then drain. Put it back in the pan, mash it, and dry it out thoroughly over medium heat.

Fry the pine nuts in a drop of oil, shaking the pan to brown them lightly all over.

Mix the ground meat with the mashed potato and add the egg, salt, and pepper. Knead vigorously by hand until well mixed and smooth. Work the pine nuts and raisins into the meat-and-potato mixture.

Shape into walnut-sized b.a.l.l.s and flatten them slightly. Dip them in flour to coat them lightly all over, and deep-fry in medium-hot oil, turning them over once, until crisp and brown.

Meatb.a.l.l.s with Eggplant Sauce Serves 6 * A delicious Turkish specialty to be served hot with rice or bulgur. * A delicious Turkish specialty to be served hot with rice or bulgur.

4 eggplants, about 2 pounds total 1 pounds ground lamb or beef 2 eggs, lightly beaten 3 tablespoons dry fine white breadcrumbs or matzo meal teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground allspice Salt and pepper Sunflower or vegetable oil 1 large onion, chopped 2 or 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 large beefsteak tomato, peeled and finely chopped Roast, peel, and mash the eggplants as described on page 63.

For the meatb.a.l.l.s, put the ground meat, eggs, and breadcrumbs in a bowl with the c.u.min, allspice, salt, and pepper and knead with your hands to a soft paste. Or blend in the food processor. Shape the mixture into small b.a.l.l.s and fry in shallow oil over medium heat, turning them until they are colored all over. Remove, and drain on paper towels.

In another large frying pan, fry the onion in 3 tablespoons oil until soft and golden. Add the garlic and stir until it begins to color, then add the tomato, salt, and pepper and cook for a few minutes, until reduced. Add the mashed eggplants, season again with salt and pepper, and cook gently, stirring, for about 8 minutes, until much of the liquid has disappeared. Drop in the meatb.a.l.l.s and simmer for 5-10 minutes.